from what i have gathered from other threads, sites, and forum members, this seems to be the skinny on ka wiring.
http://www.club-s12.org/board/attachment.p...ttachmentid=428
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp#harness
91-94 240sx fsm and 95-98 240sx fsm
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/24/47/
this site has a ca20e wiring diagram but you have to register to view it.
http://www.antrx.com/tech/
s13 and s14 ecu pin outs. both ka24e,de, and sr20de,det
http://www.az240sx.org/tech/Pinout/
it looks like the interior plugs would be 110, 111, and 113. 110 would be black and the 111 , 113 would be white. they hand down just above where the ecu bolts up.
the amount or wires on the gray s12 plug in the engine bay is the same amount as the ka plug posted above.
the plugs under the dash have between 3 and 8 wired.
Browse › Engines ›KA24E/DE swaps
S13 KA24DE to MK2 CA20E Electrical/Wiring Guide
if anyone needs ihave factory books with wiring diagrams for the following cars, 240sx89-94, sr20de fwd 91-94id be willing to copy and share the info
finally got around to wiring up my car.
fyi if you plan on using the the male end of the harness under the afm Blue is = blue/white other then that matchs up
Garrett76zt on 04:09:49 AM / 11-Nov-10I was very close to throwing this car up for sale about a month ago but I'm just too attached to it and have yet to feel "accomplished" with the car.
Lets just hope you keep it after you do feel accomplished with it haha. And yes updated pics are a must.
Man I hate nighttime engine bay photos! Everything looks nasty! You'll have to forgive the dirty state of the car. Been sitting collecting leaves recently. Here's where I'm at with the update right now. Still need to rework the hotside IC piping and the downpipe and collect the right oil fittings, couplers and whatnot. 

You can see the clearance between the turbine housing and the brake master cylinder in this pic.
thats a pretty sweet upper rad hose.
Deezus on 10:33:40 AM / 12-Nov-10thats a pretty sweet upper rad hose.
Yep and it happens to be the highest point in the coolant system so no airpockets.
the downpipe looks like it will be close to the master.. i would wrap it up in the insulating wrap..
Thats a good size turbo!
i think someone said ur z car had like 400 hp is that true?? if so how did u achieve it id be interested in knowing
turbo-s12 on 07:32:49 AM / 14-Nov-10i think someone said ur z car had like 400 hp is that true?? if so how did u achieve it id be interested in knowing
I did 460whp with an L28 on a stock head/cam combo. Then I had a worked head/valvetrain/rebello cam combo I put on and never got to dyno again. Fastest pass with the car was 11.24@124 but that was with the car making 440whp or so. Good friend of mine has a rb25 powered 280z that went 10.9 and I put 2-3 cars on him on the street.
Anyways, I ripped the L out and I'm in the process of putting a 2jz in there with a T67. Shooting for 600whp or so.
is this the garret that used to live in FL?.. ran on pinks?.. and used to come out to the sara. meets with jim(has the nasty geo)? if not. you have a twin..
rollingstock on 06:58:25 PM / 28-Nov-10is this the garret that used to live in FL?.. ran on pinks?.. and used to come out to the sara. meets with jim(has the nasty geo)? if not. you have a twin..
Yeah why? who is this?
Garrett76zt on 04:23:14 AM / 12-Dec-10Yeah why? who is this?
lol this is jeff. i had the clean 86 turbo s12 hatch that used to go up there.. back when jim used to drive the red z31. i used to hangout with him.. used to help out at exoticycle.
edit: iv talked with you before.
Post Merge: 03:57:00 PM / 12-Dec-10
heres my old car. if you cant remember
http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=31856.0
nevermind i found what i was looking for.
the tach wiring is wrong, to get the tach to work make a jumper wire from the light green/blackstripe ignition coil wire to the light green wire on the back of the tach
I just wired up my car too thanks for that thread, i got an issue with the blue wire from the s12 body, Blue wire is the ignition signal and it passes through the old ignition coil, that i threw in the garbage... It took me time to figure it out lolll i just soldered up the wire at the connection of the old coil and bam it works great !!!
I followed this write up an i still cant get my car started first fuel pump wasnt workin but i have it on a toggle switch now but now i have no spark culd anyone help me???? I havent drove my car in 4 months i need helppp lol
for the fuel pump - i just solved this issue myself - there is a yellow/red wire on the s12 in the driver side front that runs back to the fuel pump relay in the truck. You will need to check conductivity by hooking up a multimeter between this wire and the yellow/red wire on the fuel pump relay (inside the passenger side taillight cover). If you have the correct wire - there should be conductivity. I say this because there are actually two yellow/red wires on the same s12 connector. Once you verify conductivity, you can double check by shorting the one that you think is correct to ground - if the pump kicks on - it's the correct wire. Splice this wire into the s13 ecu wire 104 - the wire is black/pink. This is with an 87 XE and a 93 wiring harness. On my car this s13 wire is also used to switch ground on a relay to control power to the air regulator.
as for the spark - do your coils have power? I ran into an issue with my coils not having power. There was an issue with wiring down by the s12 coils not being correct - I basically searched until I found a wire that was +12 with the key on and start and wired the coil to that. See Ti-joeQC's post - I think I did something very similar.
I would also like to verify the tach wiring - the green/black is the wire that runs between the ignition coil, power transistor, and resistor/condenser on the s13 - somehow jump this to the green wire that comes off the tach (pin 14) on the S12 gauge cluster. WIre 14 is on the driver side connection, and I believe is the only green wire on the connector. Its on one of the corners. Anyway, on my car this wire ran down to the area where the ECU was, so I could use a wire out of the s13 wiring harness to jump between them. The wire I used was the pink wire that used to control the PAIRC-Solenoid valve. I cut the wire on the ecu side (pin 102) and wired it to the green wire in the car under the dash (after checking conductivity). The other side I ran into the black/green wire that connects the ignition coil, power transistor, and resistor/condenser. Voila - working tach.
Now if only I could figure out why my idle is so damned high. I'm 99% sure that the air regulator isn't working - Still trying to sort that one out.
I ran my Fuel Pump how Phillips did and my car runs fine much easier to do and it turns on primes the system and shuts off just like OEM