How To: S13 Coilovers

you dont need a chain if you have one of these,i got my suspension out in 10min.
not to be bragin im just saying its quicker.

Bryan Peters
you dont need a chain if you have one of these,i got my suspension out in 10min.
not to be bragin im just saying its quicker.

I call it a ball joint remover,cheap princess auto tool.

Can you just use the s13 rear coilovers?  Or is there a lot of modification that is needed for them to fit?

12dave12 on 12:35:37 PM / 22-Apr-10so what is "one of these" called?

Welding the castle nut is bad juju. If you car were to ever break a tie rod or ball joint at the track or on the street you would be beyond screwed. I have a plasma cutter and would never consider it due to the fact that it would be very easy to damage the knuckle having to cut it off. Plus, the taper of the S12 outer tie rods and the S13 knuckle's receptor are not the same.

With the megan kit, you only need the front S13 hub assemblies with brakes, rotors, and an S13 ball joint pressed into your S12 arm. I have resolved the tie rod issue and have a cheaper solution than the A1 setup, with no tapping, cutting, welding, etc. Factory style regreasable stuff. No heim joints to corrode. 100 bucks shipped for both inner, and outer tie rod ends.

And as a side note, I can't stand that style ball joint/tie rod end remover. I have yet to not break one. I'll take my pickle fork and 3lb maul any day of the week. Never had a ball joint or tie rod end take more than two swings.

Well I wasnt going to weld it to the knuckle. That would be pretty dumb. I was just talking about a tack on the castle nut to the tie rod end.

But I can get bar stock here locally drill it out on the ends then tap it for the tie rod ends so they would be the correct length. Then I can get them powder coated for like 20$ from a buddy of mine. Which I dont think it would be too terribly bad of an idea.

Like I said I just need to know what piece doesnt line up. I have the ability to make virtually any part I really need. Your only limited by your imagination, amount of money, and skill with a CAD program. If you have lots of the before mentioned things. Well then you have almost limitless possibilities.

I wasn't referring to the nut being welded to the knuckle. It was to the tie rod shaft. You'll still have to cut it off, which can damage the threads and bind the whole assembly (And the worst case scenario, ball spinning in cup), causing you to have to cut near the knuckle anyways.

As for what doesn't line up? Everything...  The inner is too short, so you will need to extend it. The S12 outer tie rods shaft taper is wrong, drops down and angles to the rear. The S12's mounting point is a good 3 inches lower and back than the S13 mounting point. So you would need cut the outer ball joint and weld on a different coupler (Thus heating the cup, and distorting it). Or get bar stock of 2 different sizes (The S13 tie rod doesn't drop down, but is a much smaller rod size) and couple or weld the two together, and then use the S13 outer tie rod. The S13 rod

I thought of it. calculated the angular stresses, tested it in solidworks, and concluded that it would most likely snap/fracture/be a waste of money. and promptly cut a S13 inner tie rod 17mm down, welded it back together, threw it on a lathe, and then just used a factory S13 outer. Took maybe 20 minutes for something I know won't break or stray while drifting. I have since used my parts sourcing, and ASE Parts specialist skills, with a friend in japan who sent me a good 10 catalogs to go through, and found a proper outer tie rod end that uses uncut, factory S13 inner tie rod ends. And I won't give out this information :P

CAD skills mean modeling
Machining, fabrication, and programming skills mean making
Once you have all three, you don't really need much money.

And, for references, picture of the two next to each other, using my original cut and welded tie rods (track backups that I lost the nuts for, and don't care to buy more) against my old factory S12 ones. Yes, they're rusty. I didn't have time in the 3 minutes it took for them to go from the lathe, to the car. And I just never cared enough to go back for it after I pulled them off...


I like, appreciate, condone, and applaud your ambition. But it's simply a pointless task

Would this kit work for the S13 front end conversion? Would I still be able to bolt on the stock strut rod?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-Joint-TIE-ROD-Control-Arm-KIT-Nissan-240SX-1989-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf645a164QQitemZ330549272932QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

you know, I was just looking for some the brakes, but I'd been reading on s13 front ends and such, saw this laying in the ground at the junkyard and picked it up.  Now, I did get tein s13 coilovers and I'll let you guys know how the package turns out :)

how do you remove the s12 tie rods?

Ok, possibly a noobie question. I am looking/planning to buy a complete S13 (I know of one with a bad motor and was told I could buy it for a couple hundred) anyways my plan was to just unbolt the entire front end steering rack the whole assembly and swap it with my stock S12. Do you guys think it would work?

TX200sx on 03:10:22 PM / 11-Jul-11Ok, possibly a noobie question. I am looking/planning to buy a complete S13 (I know of one with a bad motor and was told I could buy it for a couple hundred) anyways my plan was to just unbolt the entire front end steering rack the whole assembly and swap it with my stock S12. Do you guys think it would work?

Im pretty sure you can leave the stock s12 lcas, they are the same as s13/14 theyre all just different lengths.

But is it possible to remove the s12 lcas, because i am wanting to upgrade the tie rods so the stock ones will not bend

DeeTeez on 12:01:06 AM / 12-Jul-11But is it possible to remove the s12 lcas, because i am wanting to upgrade the tie rods so the stock ones will not bend

Well, we're almost complete on this setup but we wound up noticing a few problems and here's what I ran into.

The rotors on the s13 front are 4 lug and small.  S14 brake system will go on without too much fabrication so start considering how far you want to go into your brake system BEFORE beginning this operation.  My personal set-up is s13 front suspension mixed with s14 brake components.  I found that this was the best time to put on the cross drilled slotted rotors and get the brake lines steel-braided.

You're going to notice that some of the components aren't as sturdy from the s13 as the s12 and so don't be afraid to use this time to begin re-inforcing some of those components (or just make bigger ones, none of the components we had to re-inforce were complicated to fabricate but it's best if you have access to the right shop)

I couldn't find any sway bars... Custom, $500.  No biggie.

Also, you're going to have a hard time adjusting your rear suspension due to the totally different Geometry.  I hear Meghan racing has some good stuff but they were out of stock so I"m sitting on Tiens right now.

Final set-up-
tien coliovers
s13 front conversion
s14 brake setup
cross-drilled slotted rotors
custom sway bars
steel-braided brake lines

So in the original post he said he would also do S13 rear coilovers? Was that ever accomplished? I tried contacting henry on his facebook page to ask, but no response :( Has anyone done rears yet?

David48 on 10:03:09 PM / 04-Sep-11So in the original post he said he would also do S13 rear coilovers? Was that ever accomplished? I tried contacting henry on his facebook page to ask, but no response :( Has anyone done rears yet?

David48 on 10:03:09 PM / 04-Sep-11So in the original post he said he would also do S13 rear coilovers? Was that ever accomplished? I tried contacting henry on his facebook page to ask, but no response :( Has anyone done rears yet?

So like deffinitive list of what I need?

im going the full s13 route, so s13 lca spindle hub caliper ball joint and tc rod. so far ive got all of that and also s14 tc rod brackets. i couldnt find an s13 sway bar but the guy gave me the s14 one free when i picked up the brackets. can i use the s14 sway bar on the s13 setup? thanks.

Here are the facts broken down in simple terms.

Megan Racing does indeed make the best kit, but you will have to convert to S13 front suspension (only front). The rears are uniquely designed for the S12.

You can also create your own adjustable height front and rear suspension. The fronts require some cutting and welding though not much. The rears are 100% bolt-in, using a 5x8" spring and a universal fit adjustable spring perch.

S13 rear suspension is a lot of customization: cutting and welding the unibody. The S13 rear suspension is radically different from the S12 setup. A couple people on here have done it but it's a lot of work unless you are experienced with metal fabrication and like math and measuring.

that doesnt asnwer my question at all lol

No but it answered the other guy's question. Basically everything you listed is what you need, yes... I don't see why you can't use S12-spec sway bar. Aren't you using S12 control arms? I recommend you use the S12 control arms or you will have a lot of extra poke which means a lot of extra camber. Way too much. I never understand why people run S13 arms or worse S14 arms unless they are planning to run fender flares or a custom widebody kit (and who really does that).

Because racecar

extra poke=more steering angle and camber can be adjusted by this magical adjustable piece of metal called "camber plates"

Except that even with camber plates, you end up with 3 degrees or more negative. So your car is then ONLY useful for drift, and not practical at all for regular street use. All for a bit extra steering angle. Which could have been done by simply shortening the steering knuckles. Which has been done before so it's proven to work well.

Oh and I might add to things that much negative camber would probably make the car difficult to control in a drift, since the front wheels are your only contact patch. No bueno. Hellaflush stanced status FTL.

If a person is going for a street car without tons of tire wear then use s12 arms.
Of you want something more aggressive for street or track car use s13/ s14 arms or if you are baller than adjustable lca's

Arro on 01:15:28 AM / 05-Jun-12Ok so for drifting it's good for the front, but not for the rear.

Arro on 01:15:28 AM / 05-Jun-12And not for either front or rear for street driving.

Arro on 01:15:28 AM / 05-Jun-12But I guess streeting an S12 has zero cool value to it :innocent:

ok so no poke then, makes my job easier :) i last question, i heard you needed s13 balljoint for s13 hub? true or will s12 ball joint work.

Truth for most. Not needed for few.

thanks.next step, coils and install :)

Arro on 11:15:27 PM / 04-Jun-12Except that even with camber plates, you end up with 3 degrees or more negative. So your car is then ONLY useful for drift, and not practical at all for regular street use. All for a bit extra steering angle. Which could have been done by simply shortening the steering knuckles. Which has been done before so it's proven to work well.

Oh and I might add to things that much negative camber would probably make the car difficult to control in a drift, since the front wheels are your only contact patch. No bueno. Hellaflush stanced status FTL.

yea but how much do your wheels stick out at full positive. that poke is what most people try to avoid unless flares are used or its going to the track only

pakii-afa on 12:49:22 PM / 06-Jun-12yea but how much do your wheels stick out at full positive. that poke is what most people try to avoid unless flares are used or its going to the track only

i know its all personal, im going for a flush-ish look, but rather the wheel inside the fender then out. so i think ill stick to the s12 lca, if i need more poke then ill swap it out for the s13 :)

i havent read all the comments yet so my question is gonna make me look like a complete retard  but will s13 coil-overs fit the s12 directly without replacing the rest of the suspension? again yes i look like a complete retard asking this but i got confused reading just a few post sorry

No,
Read more

lolz.

Answered, like,

EVERYWHERE on this site.

took a while to read all the posts and i got my answer thanks

You'd be surprised how much info is on this site. Good info, not just guesses.

Arro on 11:52:41 PM / 10-Mar-13You'd be surprised how much info is on this site. Good info, not just guesses.

ok so i'm finally gonna do the coilover setup. since the guy is banned can you run s13 spindle and hub on stock s12 LCA/BallJoint/Tension Rod/Tie Rod/Swaybar/Brakes? or do you have to get s13 brakes/rotors/lines/etc. I want to know if the factory s12 calipers clear s13 rotors and if the A1 tie rods bolt onto the s13 spindle if you cut the knuckles for angle on stock s12 steering rack.

You CAN run an S13 knuckle on an S12 Balljoint but it's not recommended, Darryn on S12Silvia did that in his SR20 live axle drift car. That car was also on cut knuckles IIRC on a stock manual rack and had a ton of angle.

For the tie rods: As long as they haven't messed with the taper on the tie rod pick up any S13 tie rod will work, even the A1s.

I have no clue about the brakes.

I_heart_VVL on 02:37:07 PM / 15-Mar-13
You CAN run an S13 knuckle on an S12 Balljoint but it's not recommended, Darryn on S12Silvia did that in his SR20 live axle drift car. That car was also on cut knuckles IIRC on a stock manual rack and had a ton of angle.

Yes you can use S12 stock control arms, and in fact I would recommend it if you want more reasonable camber.

nismo_200sx on 01:22:38 AM / 18-Mar-13
why do you not recommend doing that?

my car will never see the street and it's been running for 2 years lol

Is it just me, or did you forget to update this write up with the how to on the Rears?
car already came with the megan set up in the front but I've been trying to figure out wth they did with the rear and how I can fix it.