Matt's S12

Build up the KA, swap the SR for it. Then build up the SR!

seishukuBuild up the KA, swap the SR for it. Then build up the SR!

Eh, most of the electronics cross over between the two, and the only thing on the drive line that needs to change is the bell housing. It's not as big of a change as it would seem.

I thinking of making this whole thing modular, so I could pull one engine and drop in the other with relative ease.

I'll probably have to pick up an S14 KA distributor though, since that has an internal coil like my SR (makes the swap easier).

The KA will however have all emissions intact and keeping the swirl control butterflies (keep some low end power, like my SR's VCT).

Picked up some goodies from my Brother:
 ), and a Blackstone intercooler off some SAAB... Basically the same as those Volvo intercoolers that some guys run on turbo S12's.

Edit:
Oh, and please no comments about the mess, I'm working on it, and I'm very lazy.

I don't recommend the Volvo intercooler because the core is thin and tall... and you're only going to be exposing small areas of it due to the design of the S12 bumper. At least with a thicker core, that bit that's exposed is flowing more air through it. At the very least, get it pressure tested.

+1
not to burst any bubbles but those ICs with the plastic ends are junks. They crack or even pop off when boosting any amount of air that really would require an IC lol

Very true... and the cracks in the plastic aren't always visible or even easy to spot with pressure testing until they see some heat from the turbo air charge.

But the other point I made about the core design is a big deal, too... the S12's airdam is so limited as to what it exposes, you want a THICK core so that what IS exposed is flowing more air. This won't get that. Also, this is going to have to go IN FRONT of your radiator, because there is no way it will fit in the bumper. MAYBE with some GOOD powerful electric fans, you can stuff this in front of the radiator and behind the core support, and the fans will help draw air through it. Maybe.

Still, I don't recommend this unit.

Ducting is your best friend! The area that's exposed on the front of the S12 isn't a huge deal, as long as the air is directed properly.

And with the surface area on that thing, it's about as efficient as the front mount I already have. Plus it was free, and low miles... Though I haven't looked it over yet, it's practically brand new.

I'm not too worried about the plastic breaking or the tanks popping off, at least not at 11PSI... Maybe at a bar, or 20PSI.

Got all the wheels the same color now, looks much better.
Still have to work on some body paint, get it ready for winter.

you can use the roll-in bedliner and other similar epoxies right over paint, some recommend that is the way you do it, the more protection there the better.

Yeah, that's true. That stuff is $$$ though, I think Menards has it for $40 for a small 1 pint can.

It's an option though.

seishukuYeah, that's true. That stuff is $$$ though, I think Menards has it for $40 for a small 1 pint can.

It's an option though.

Have you tried the kind with a magnet and you hit it with a hammer?
Doesn't work when putting it back together, but you can get it apart at least.

There's also a bridge type one that bolts to the head, and pivots on the bridge to push down on the retainer.

Reworking some parts of my water injection system:

Contamination:

looking sexyyyyy!

what size tb is that?

60MM, same as the KA, just a little different config (low-port high-port manifold differences).

I was looking for a slightly bigger one, but this one is already bigger than a turbo SR, so I guess I can't complain.

Edit:
Oh, when you come here, could you bring one of your spare rubber elbows, the one that says "AFM SIDE" on it?
Mine is getting cracked, and now has the old hole for the water nozzle... I really need to make a solid aluminum pipe for that part.

Editedit:
Oh, something cool about the S14 SR20 throttle body is that it has the cold idle function built in, so you don't have to deal with the retarded "air regulator" that always goes bad!
All it needs is a hose for the engine coolant. Nifty, eh?

keep that heater.its way better while gettin sideways in the winter if you can actually feel your hands,arms,and legs.haha

OH, and I did some more work with the fuel and timing maps, revised them a little... Merged some fueling and timing from the stock NA map for off boost, and pulled out a little on the top end (was ungodly rich, about 9:1 last I checked)... And HOLY CRAP it was pulling hard today.

I know cold temps helps with boost, but still.

HAHA yeah, it seemed like you were a bit rich at times in the higher rpms (steps out of cloud of smoke & fire, LOL)  pulls harder than before?  shit!

k, cool, I'll bring the extra tube.  Now that you say that, and I look at the pic, its obvious its the same size as a KA, as that is the same hose I had on there for awhile

and being it is the same size as the KA, you could make that plate for others, I'm sure there would be some who are interested!  Waylon might be, as I think he was going with some sort of injection, this is a super clean way of doing it.

Yeah, I can make them for anyone that's interested... Would work very well for Nitrous too. Even with multiple ports if they wanted!

very cool man.  Not knockin it but I do have one concern.  With the injector at a 90 degree to the airflow and about 60mm from what is basically a wall.  Wouldnt deatomization be a problem?  Not sayin it wont work.  Just concerned it wont be optimal.

I thought about that too, but the nozzle is at the top of the butterfly (opens into the plenum) and the airflow (vacuum or boost, shouldn't matter) should grab the droplets and distribute them properly.

I can also make a port injection plate that would bolt in between the two intake halves, that was the original plan, but this was quicker and I still need to order the 4 new nozzles.

I could make a port injection plate for you if you want, but you'll have to make a 1:1 scan of the plenum flange on the CA18DET since I only have a KA and SR.

Another one bites the dust...

Lost another parking brake cable. Water got in it, water froze, thawed, rusted.
At least it was just a rebuild I did, using one of those parking cable repair kits.

Oh well, another item to add to the "to do" list.

Still have the other caliper to use anyway, just got the other end tied off to the subframe, so the lever still works the one side.

(https://i.imgur.com/2vrYrKn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3hKDSqR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vb8E7pc.jpg)

New shift knob! And yes, it's a real pool ball, I liked the weight of it.
I also threaded the end of the lever, and plan on making a slight extension and will bend back towards the driver.

The lever is just the stock one, with the upper section removed (they are held together by rubber).

I had a setup like that on the cheetah for ages, except the interior was in... the knob was like surface level with the center console!  looks good man

Looks a thousand times better than your last one =P

Why not use an 8ball though?

I thought about an 8 ball, but it's been played out. Plus that was the only ball missing from the set.

#1 BECAUSE ITS #1 BIATCH!

 

Exactly!

seishuku Exactly!

That would be interesting...

OH.... I think i've just found the new ricer mod!!!

lol magic 8 ball shift knobs on ebay soon.  .99cents and 46.99shipping lol

IggyEGuanalol magic 8 ball shift knobs on ebay soon.  .99cents and 46.99shipping lol

Not that I'm having issues with oil and such, but I made my self a catch can:
(https://i.imgur.com/KBdqoeY.jpg)
I know, that weld on the top is a little gnarly, but I had done that on the old Miller 330 A/B TIG machine and was having problems getting amps low enough to keep a good arc with out blowing through (it's very thin stainless steal).
The rest was done on my Miller MaxTron 450, which has much finer control, and would have came out much nicer.
I also need to wire wheel it, it needs a good cleaning.

What's inside:
(https://i.imgur.com/3htqCW6.jpg)

What it does, is the oil/vapors enter and the stainless steal scrubby pads and literally scrubs the oil particles out of the air passing through.

The 2 other holes are for?

Guessing oil return and vaccum?

The two on the side are in/out, the top is just access (for emptying and to stuff the pads in), but I guess it could be made an active drain as well.

damn thats nice.  Baffles in there?  I wanna weld a little simple one up.

No need for baffles, that's what the stainless scrub pads are for, they act like millions of little baffles. It's pretty neat the way it works.

even better.  Where'd you get the materials for that?  Especially the bungs.

McMaster Carr, I love that place. Damn near anything you could ever want, fast shipping too. Kinda pricey on some items though.

1" half coupling - 4452K316
1/2" half coupling - 4452K314

All 18 gauge material, the base is actually a spun stainless can... Originally a utensil holder.
Kinda like this: http://www.organize-it-online.com/itm_amco...l?cmpid=Froogle (http://www.organize-it-online.com/itm_amcobin.html?cmpid=Froogle)

Working on cleaning up the garage today... Oi, what a mess.
(https://i.imgur.com/ByqAEdc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/unSUWkg.jpg)
More tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to park two cars in there, again.

Oh and Sterling, I found at least one of those TIG hand amptrols useful!
At least it's one that works, I found another not working, but haven't got around to testing the rest. I think one more will work.
(https://i.imgur.com/vpyq365.jpg)

some of them might work intermittantly, remember I pulled them from the garbage... look carefully at the wires, particularly as they pass into the actual control, they tend to break there, so it would simply be a matter of shortening them and resolder.  otherwise, I can't image the other components in those are that complicated, it would be a matter of testing them electronically to see which had given out.  I imagine either radioshack or other electronics suppliers could get the rest of the stuff, if that was what the problem was....

catch can looks badass man, toss up some pics when its installed

also, lmk if you want the KA's exhaust mani and flywheel, they are currently at my aunt's house, I can stash them at the new place if you think you'll need them eventually...

Yeah, I noticed that some of the cables were a little rough. And so far one control wouldn't kick in the contactor, another would work if I wacked it with a screwdriver.
The one I'm using right now has been really good though, so 1.5 out of... 8?  Not too bad.

New exhaust time!

I've been getting a little annoyed with the side exhaust and cabin noise... It's been a long time since I've had a proper exhaust.

Edit:
Oh, and don't worry about the KA stuff, I'll be going with a light weight flywheel and a clutch that will hold more power. Plus it'll likely be a turbo engine anyway, so I'll need a turbo header.
Either that or I'll maybe make a shorty N/A header, I donno.

Just made the "over subframe, under axle" part.
(https://i.imgur.com/lcoMNKi.jpg)

Looks good man, thats definitely the toughest part of the exhaust. I think I built my turbo back with only 2 u bends and a 8" stick which was under $30 locally. As soon as I can get my hooptie figured out we are gonna need to run em!

Thanks!

Just tell me when and where!

cool on the ka parts.

DO tell where you got all that for $80, thats a great deal, and i will need such things shortly.

rear piping looks great!  would be nice not to drag on like, everything.

that green machine looks familiar.

http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servl...LTI-PACK/Detail (http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servlet/the-64/MANDREL-BEND-MULTI-PACK/Detail)
They were a little "weird" on the shipping over the "holiday" week end (president's day), so it took a little longer to get the pipes. But, it was ok... At least I got the pipes.

It hasn't really dragged on anything lately, not since I redid it some... It's angled a little higher, but yea I want a full exhaust now.

Looks familiar eh? You sure?  That thing is a life saver!