Matt's S12

damn Jay, thats an impressive lineup there...

Matt, you were running rich?  I NEVER KNEW  

anyway, with a leaner tune I think you'll pick up some ponies.  like you needed more yeah!

are you running the sr maf still?

I'm still working on the suspension! Tuning is free, parts cost moneys

Ponies I'm not too worried about, it's the foot lbs that I'm after.
It's defiently pulling better up top now, before it just kinda petered out and stopped, now it feels like it's gaining more power even at 6500+.

Yeah, still stock MAF that came with the engine, supposed to be good to 250 or 280WHP, so I gotta be close to that number.
I have a hack that might get me around the MAFS limits with out buying a new one, either by placing the element in a sized pipe, or bore out the stock housing. I'm not sure what I want to do yet.

Oh, and this weekend I was going to try getting some of the front mount supports in for the rear suspension, depending on how lazy I feel and how much grinding it takes to remove the underbody coating.

Yea Jay, Sterling is a cool dood. You should see the welding he does. Seriously, he makes junk cars good to drive again!

NemisisYea Jay, Sterling is a cool dood. You should see the welding he does. Seriously, he makes junk cars good to drive again!

I know, I know... Work on the damn suspension!

Made another goodie for my '12 -
(https://i.imgur.com/Veu7f2w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UxCuEGI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0ZlDcOp.jpg)

New water tank for the alcohol injection, and could double for an alternative fuel tank too (though it wouldn't hold much fuel, about 3.5gal).

Baffled of course, and a bronze diffuser for a inlet filter. All 304 stainless.

Gotta do the cutout on the top for the access cover, and for the filler pipe.

Edit:
Oh, don't mind the "rusty" metal, it was a little corroded when I got it out of my Parent's basement. It'll acid wash it before I'm done with it.

Well, I didn't get the forward mounts in, because I can't with out removing the stock subframe.

I did lay the two suspension frames together, and take measurements.

It also places the rear mounts directly on the rear unibody member for the stock rear diff mount. Perfect place for some holes to be drilled and carriage bolts installed, with reinforcement plates of course (much like you would with a roll cage).

I can do the rear mounts, but the front will have to be done when the whole thing goes in, so the car will have to be down for a few days... Which means I will have to have everything ready to go.

Finished the tank:
(https://i.imgur.com/JO1MQup.jpg)

New setup in the rear:
(https://i.imgur.com/w85PTzX.jpg)

looks hella nice dude, now finish it with some anodized finish.  or some of that anodized wannabe paint stuff.

Good progress. As we all know the s13 rear suspension swap doesn't happen overnight so don't beat yourself up to bad .

Yea, I know.
I wish I had a beater or maybe a scooter I could use, then I could have the '12 down and fix a few things. Like the oil pan that I never sealed correctly when I had the engine out last.

FYI, if anyone wanted one of those tanks, I could make one for about $200. Stainless isn't cheap!

DIY tension rod brace.

Though since it's not that heavy of tubing, I might add some cross bracing for triangulation. It might not really be needed.

duuuuuude get to work on that reAr end!!! lol

tuhsty s-12duuuuuude get to work on that reAr end!!! lol

Coilovers aren't cheap ya know, it's really the only thing I need. Not really a normal coil over either, I can't steal it off another car.
$350 doesn't grow on trees...
It'll happen, I'm not about to give up on it!
I'll probably need the adjustable arms after I get it all in, but I'm not going to worry about adjusting it until it's functional.

I was putting the diagonal brace on, and what happens? I run out of welding wire. Figures.

Tired of your differential puking oil everywhere?
Try this!
(https://i.imgur.com/KWcRx7n.jpg)

Yank out the crap-tastic OEM breather, tap it for 1/4" NPT (the hole is already the perfect size), and put a 1/4" x 3" long pipe that's threaded on one end in it. Then tap the unthreaded end of the nipple for 1/8" NPT (again, it's the perfect size), and screw in a 1/8NPT 1PSI to 3PSI relief vent into that (such as McMaster-Carr part # 1093K1).

I'm really getting tired of my diff dripping oil everwhere, and it seems to be dripping more and more lately. I've tried resealing everything already.

so much win. continue please

Thank you captain obvious.

So far so good, no dripping yet. If it's going to, it'll probably take a few heat cycles.
I probably should have welded a baffle plate in there too while I was at it, but oh well. I can always do that later.

I also did an inspection of my diff, all the welds are holding just fine, no cracks at all. Good thing I know what I'm doing.  

If only I had the $6.79 to change the oil while I was in there, instead of reusing the old nasty stuff.

I thought new turbo VW's had K04 turbos.

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn106/gtimitch/VW%20HP%20Parts%20Comparison/K04vsR35.jpg)

K04 compared to a GT3582R. Tried finding a pic with one next to a T25, but couldn't find it.

Ooops. I guess they came with either. They are TINY turbos!!!!

K04 compressor inlet size:
(http://www.nceuromotorsports.com/gallery2/d/3503-1/ko4inet.jpg)

The K03 is just slightly smaller. I think its 1.3" or so.

And on my Ruckus scooter club, a couple guys with 150cc swapped motors can spool a K04 turbo... so far to 10psi. I can dig up some of those if ya want, there pretty cool.

Sorry about the thread jack... again.

Yea, I was really surprised at how small those things are, but they seem to flow quite a bit. Like I said, right on par with a T25g.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtDDZ4goU0g (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtDDZ4goU0g) ATR Ruckus. 150cc GY6 motor swap and a K04 turbo @10psi.

Amazing that a 150cc engine can even spool that thing!
Doesn't sound like it's making much power though, I'm guessing those engines don't have much for timing management.

Not really. they run off of a CDI box. Pretty much a ignition timing computer with a rev limiter. And did you notice that we HAVE to run it as a draw-through setup... Sucks. But it works, and those turbos are pretty cheap and plentiful.

You'll like this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyU3UGYGVNg) too. Hes running a standard GY6 motor with a 4-valve head (stock is 2) cammed. Too bad you cant bore up to bigger displacements with a 4 valve. These motors can be built to 190cc.

Oh wow, that's fuckin awesome. Sounds bad-ass from off idle to low throttle, I love that sound!

Hey, if I apply and get into Miller Brewing, I will do a 150 swap and K04 turbo with other shit... Probably ride to your house on it too.

Haha, that would be awesome! (both the beer job and scooter )

Man, Kids are growing up. When I was young I was putting turbos on lawn mowers. Now they've moved onto scooters!?

What's next. Turbo soap box racers with goped motors? Oh wait, we tried that...
Nitrous enhanced gopeds? Shit, that's been done too...

I KNOW!!!

TurboProp Kayaks!!!!!

In all seriousness that ruckus is just plain cool in my book

Kids? We're all the same age dude.

Aux lights!

pshhh, nothin.  if i bought HID kits for my 5" Pilots, you'd cry blood.

Xanopshhh, nothin.  if i bought HID kits for my 5" Pilots, you'd cry blood.

(https://i.imgur.com/OuzWgrH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BZey8Sm.jpg)

ooo high tech

Megasquirt, Nifty

Did you want something with a better fuel map resolution? I'm not familiar with the SR20's ECU...

I was gonna say, werent you a big proponent of Nistune before?

What happened with that?

Actually, factory management is higher res (ECCS is 16x16 tables, MS is 12x12), but it's just something new to play with. Lots of really nice features (anti-lag, auto rad fan, water injection, even traction control if you want), and shouldn't be too hard getting it up and running.

I got the timing map converted over already, just need to do something with fuel. Which is harder to do, since the ECCS sort of uses a percent over stoich and MS uses a volumetric efficiency percentage, but I'll get it.

I do need an intake temp sensor though.

Edit:
I should clarify, I have a MS1 v2.2, which is lower res than stock EMS, but MS2 is the same res.

seishukuActually, factory management is higher res (ECCS is 16x16 tables, MS is 12x12), but it's just something new to play with. Lots of really nice features (anti-lag, auto rad fan, water injection, even traction control if you want), and shouldn't be too hard getting it up and running.

I got the timing map converted over already, just need to do something with fuel. Which is harder to do, since the ECCS sort of uses a percent over stoich and MS uses a volumetric efficiency percentage, but I'll get it.

I do need an intake temp sensor though.

Edit:
I should clarify, I have a MS1 v2.2, which is lower res than stock EMS, but MS2 is the same res.

agreed matt, was this a hand-me-down you got from someone then?  just something to mess with when your bored.

MS is great, you can convert to ANY type of airflow sensor.

I'm almost 100% certain MS has a module for MAFs.

It's not well tested though, and probably wouldn't work with a Nissan MAFS anyway (5.12v max vs. MS's 5v max).
I originally wanted to do that, but MS is designed around speed density, so I might as well use it.

Plus I'm already maxing out my MAFS anyway, so speed density is a cheap way around it. As much as I don't like it.

XanoMS is great, you can convert to ANY type of airflow sensor.

I'm almost 100% certain MS has a module for MAFs.

Nemisis3.5" GM MAFs.

They are good to a billion HP...

No seriously, DSM guys swap them in with a translator (both 3" and 3.5") and they flow ridiculously well. I have a 3" that Kyle gave me... gonna use it when I get a 4G63T in my colt tho.

Oh yeah, stock ECCS is really flexible, and those guys are always making new breakthroughs on new things. The biggest things right now have been a complete rewrite of the KA24E ECU found in the Stanza (U12), adding consult to ECUs that didn't have support before, and built-in launch control.

Tuning is really easy, even if you do it the hard way, the other software that people charge for (like nistune) is really just for convenience (of course they offer other stuff too, like daughter boards), but you can make a daughter board and burn a ROM chip and be tuning!

Oh, another thing that pretty much no one knows, is the ECU that the RWD SR20DE and GA16DE (they use the same style ECU) is a really shitty designed ECU for reprogramming.
It comes from them integrating a lot of the logic and processors into a single solution, and it creates a problem when you want to use external memory.

Edit:
Oh, and big flow MAFS cost big flow cash, I'm cheap.

Well let me ask you this, Do you have a schematic for the daughterboard. It would make a pretty good class final for this semester.

Using this picture, ould you have any idea which SOIC this is? It looks like it would take 10 minutes to make.
and damnit. I can't make out those resistor colors...
(http://www.sr20tuning.com/daughterboard2.jpg)

Nevermind, I found it.. I'll put it here for future reference, and then do a how-to later on

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/Phreakonaleash55/Schematic.jpg)

That's the 4 map BikiROM board, pretty old board.

This one is a 2 map board, I think BadBiki designed this one too, but don't remember.
(https://i.imgur.com/q0ZlHAt.jpg)

Is there a slightly larger, or direct link to that image? I'm having a hard time reading the specifics on the NAND gates on there.

Not really, it's a pretty bad JPEG.
If you search around for S13 daughterboard, there should be a few hits on DIY boards.

Edit:
 I see you found one already

seishukuNot really, it's a pretty bad JPEG.
If you search around for S13 daughterboard, there should be a few hits on DIY boards.

Edit:
 I see you found one already

Damn, that thing is dirt cheap.

And then I can offer dirt cheap ROM's for KA guys on here, Because most of them don't have SR's.

But what software do you use for tuning, Tunerpro?