Lol Wtf

Started by Ozchuck · Oct 20, 2007 · 41postsInvision 2005–09

OzchuckOct 20, 2007, 11:42 am · #1

So yeah, continuing on, someone in the hilarious CA s14 thread mentioned the CA18 was an awesome engine and the SR only replaced it because it was cheaper to produce?

WTF? the CA was dropped because it sucked.

If its expensive to make, and you can make a new engine that is both cheaper and better than the original, that makes the second engine better.

To qualify this statement, stock vs stock the SR makes a lot more power and torque.
It's also less prone to spinning a bearing.

And then when you look at the engines when they're "fully built"... I have seen, uh, 1 ca18 engine making more than 300KW... and it did so at 7,000 RPM...
The countless CA's I have seen spit the dummy even when only at the 150KW level is crazy.
The average rebuilt CA with forgies can only produce 200KW before the turbo is too big and the engine becomes laggy...

Can someone please provide a solid reference or a good reason why the CA is a "better engine" than the SR?
The only one I have is that a CA18DET can be picked from a wrecker for very cheap, and that it sounds a bit better.
Both of these dont matter much at all once you start building an engine and the costs go up into the additional thousands.

RedneckOct 20, 2007, 4:55 pm · #2

Both motors have their ups and downs. Overall is the sr20det a superior motor....yeah. But that doesn't mean the ca18det is a bad motor by any means. It is still a great little 4 cylinder.

Sean1978Oct 21, 2007, 1:19 pm · #3

So yeah, continuing on, someone in the hilarious CA s14 thread mentioned the CA18 was an awesome engine and the SR only replaced it because it was cheaper to produce?

WTF? the CA was dropped because it sucked.

Chuck,

In the U.S. were people didin't have the CA and SR I have heard people say all kinds of crazy stuff about the CA. I don't hate the engine but it IS a 1.8 liter and it's older than the SR.

All I know is that when I lived in Japan and people had easy access to both engines CA18's were often thrown away and replaced with SR's.

When I moved here to the U.S. a lot of people who do engine swaps say they do a CA swap to be "different". wacko.gif

IMO the KA kicks the ass of the SR and the CA. A few local guys here in NC have some pretty crazy ones.

OzchuckOct 23, 2007, 2:08 am · #4

Yeah, not having ready access to the engine can help spread ignorance, y'know the usual "I heard it was awesome on a forum so I'll propagate that and spread the idea and kids on forums will see me and then spread that even more"

Without the voice of sanity of the guy who says "No, I've worked on them before, and they are shit" the internet runs off into crazy town.

sam31183Oct 28, 2007, 6:06 am · #5

the thing is tho...the ka does certain things good, the ca does certain things good, and the sr also does certain things good. I think the ca is a great autox engine, it is pretty light and has great throttle response. also if you look at it in a s12 engine bay, it sits way back for a good weight distribution. The ca can also rev higher stock. So, it is a good autox engine, and a good engine for the touge. The ka has gobs of low end torque and parts are readily available, also it is pretty damn reliable. So this is a good engine for drag racing and daily driver. The sr can produce good power, with decent torque. So it is a good engine for drifting.

I like the 18det for the following reasons
Iron Block
Timing belt instead of chain....timing chains most of the time are a pain in the ass to change
higher red line
less expensive
I find them more esthetically pleasing to my eye then the ka and the sr.
And finally....the 2 lamest reasons for like the 18det
It came in the s12...so it drops right in
there are more srs around then there are 18dets.

At any rate...I dont go into the ka and sr forums and make fun of your guys engines...so please dont come in here and make fun of us underdogs, at least we arent sohc.

RedneckNov 1, 2007, 5:07 am · #6

sam31183 @ Oct 27 2007, 11:06 PM At any rate...I dont go into the ka and sr forums and make fun of your guys engines...so please dont come in here and make fun of us underdogs, at least we arent sohc.

^^ lol

SR20D21Nov 12, 2007, 3:12 am · #7

Ozchuck @ Oct 20 2007, 03:42 AM
So yeah, continuing on, someone in the hilarious CA s14 thread mentioned the CA18 was an awesome engine and the SR only replaced it because it was cheaper to produce?

WTF? the CA was dropped because it sucked.

If its expensive to make, and you can make a new engine that is both cheaper and better than the original, that makes the second engine better.

To qualify this statement, stock vs stock the SR makes a lot more power and torque.
It's also less prone to spinning a bearing.

And then when you look at the engines when they're "fully built"... I have seen, uh, 1 ca18 engine making more than 300KW... and it did so at 7,000 RPM...
The countless CA's I have seen spit the dummy even when only at the 150KW level is crazy.
The average rebuilt CA with forgies can only produce 200KW before the turbo is too big and the engine becomes laggy...

Can someone please provide a solid reference or a good reason why the CA is a "better engine" than the SR?
The only one I have is that a CA18DET can be picked from a wrecker for very cheap, and that it sounds a bit better.
Both of these dont matter much at all once you start building an engine and the costs go up into the additional thousands.

My "Stock CA with bolt on's and fmic made more power then a local S15 sr20det on the same dyno at less boost,.,.,.,.go figure and for three thousand dollars less....
stronger block, better valvetrain (no need for rocker stops) CA's main drawback is the milage, ecu and piss poor turbo! but that is easy upgrade to later sr unit that can then be remapped and a t28 or whatever turbo you want and even red tops are getting hard tofind that aren't beat to shit.
On average
CA=$1400
SR=$2300
S14 SR=$2800
S15 SR=$4400 +

A thousand dollars(min) can buy alot of goodies

New2DriftingNov 12, 2007, 3:26 am · #8

SR20D21 @ Nov 11 2007, 09:12 PM
My "Stock CA with bolt on's and fmic made more power then a local S15 sr20det on the same dyno at less boost,.,.,.,.go figure and for three thousand dollars less....
stronger block, better valvetrain (no need for rocker stops) CA's main drawback is the milage, ecu and piss poor turbo! but that is easy upgrade to later sr unit that can then be remapped and a t28 or whatever turbo you want and even red tops are getting hard tofind that aren't beat to shit.
On average
CA=$1400
SR=$2300
S14 SR=$2800
S15 SR=$4400 +

A thousand dollars(min) can buy alot of goodies

let me reduce your averages... i cant GIVE away my CA, haha.

but this will always be the case... the less expensive, less powerful motors will always be more powerful with the same amount of money put into them as it costs for the next upgrade in motor.

i can take a CA, put a grand into it and it will outshine a base SR all day, but then you put the same upgrades on the SR and bam!, you're back to being on top...

XanoNov 12, 2007, 8:16 am · #9

New2Drifting @ Nov 11 2007, 09:26 PM
let me reduce your averages... i cant GIVE away my CA, haha.

but this will always be the case... the less expensive, less powerful motors will always be more powerful with the same amount of money put into them as it costs for the next upgrade in motor.

i can take a CA, put a grand into it and it will outshine a base SR all day, but then you put the same upgrades on the SR and bam!, you're back to being on top...

but that CA that costs you from anywhere between 0 and 1500 dollars with 1000 in mods compared to that 3000 SR20 with 1000 in mods, compare the costs, you spent max 2500 and got 250+ HP on the CA and spent 4000 and got 275-300 HP on the SR20, you spend 2500 on an SR20 and its bone stock or less, you spend 4000 on a CA and its got over 350 hp

its all relative, you have to factor in the cost of the engine as well as the cost of the mods.

PremoNov 12, 2007, 6:45 pm · #10

lol @ 4000 to get 350hp and 2500 for 250hp!!!! hahaha

and they're referring to teh DET btw kole, not the ET. the ET is a fuckign joke to get 200+hp out of

New2DriftingNov 12, 2007, 8:31 pm · #11

Premo @ Nov 12 2007, 12:45 PM
lol @ 4000 to get 350hp and 2500 for 250hp!!!! hahaha

and they're referring to teh DET btw kole, not the ET. the ET is a fuckign joke to get 200+hp out of

i know what theyre comparing, and i wasnt meaning to be engine specific... i was just saying that this is a historical comparison ever since the first engines came along... the more you put into them, the power increases exponentially compared to the original engine.

you start with a small engine, spend a grand, get X hp...
you start with a big engine, spend a grand, get XX hp.

I never understood the comparison of one engine to another. sure they're all related (nissan), but who's to say that they can even be compared? like comparing my small block to an SR20XX. Sure, you can squeeze 500 horses out of the SR, but I'm still running 12's with only 3XX ponies.

SR20D21Nov 12, 2007, 9:37 pm · #12

New2Drifting @ Nov 11 2007, 07:26 PM
let me reduce your averages... i cant GIVE away my CA, haha.

but this will always be the case... the less expensive, less powerful motors will always be more powerful with the same amount of money put into them as it costs for the next upgrade in motor.

i can take a CA, put a grand into it and it will outshine a base SR all day, but then you put the same upgrades on the SR and bam!, you're back to being on top...

Hell if you got a CA18DET your trying to give away I'll take it tell me how much you want for shipping.,.,.,.,Done deal biggrin.gif

BTW if you put a grand into the sr then you could have put 2 grand into the ca(stroker pistons, ca20 crank,bigger turbo and tuning could be had for that price) jm2c

XanoNov 12, 2007, 10:52 pm · #13

SR20D21 @ Nov 12 2007, 03:37 PM
Hell if you got a CA18DET your trying to give away I'll take it tell me how much you want for shipping.,.,.,.,Done deal biggrin.gif

BTW if you put a grand into the sr then you could have put 2 grand into the ca(stroker pistons, ca20 crank,bigger turbo and tuning could be had for that price) jm2c

that was the point i was trying to make, comparing TOTAL cost, the cheaper engine will net you more gains, if you spend the same amount of TOTAL money (engine, mods, tuning, blah) between a newer more expensive more popular engine vs an older less used less known about engine less expensive engine, you'll end up with more power out of the cheaper engine, because you will have more money to spend on mods.

Umai NaaDec 24, 2007, 4:07 pm · #14

SR20D21 @ Nov 12 2007, 03:12 AM
CA's main drawback is the milage, ecu and piss poor turbo!

Nothing wrong with the CA ECU.

When stock, they are very flexible. It's amazing the amount of stuff you can get away with before a remap. I'll put cams in mine before I even consider getting it done.

JonBDec 24, 2007, 5:47 pm · #15

I've seen this going on for some time now.
I like the cast iron block on the CA, plus the direct cam on bucket desighn, individual lobe to valve, and the low harmonic timing belt.
I like the way the SR intake runners have very little angle in the head, thats gotta flow good!
I wouldn't know whats better, Enjoy them both!
Pic one you want, make it faster than your buddies with the opposing motor; end of argument.

Sean1978Dec 24, 2007, 7:30 pm · #16

I think the ca is a great autox engine, it is pretty light and has great throttle response.

Have you ever seen a CA18DET at an autocross? The ones I have been to around Charlotte non turbo KA's usually score better times than SR's even Modified SR's!

Why would a small turbo engine with no torque off the line be better for autocross? You would spend more time spooling than boosting.

Umai NaaDec 25, 2007, 1:35 am · #17

Agreed. CA18DETs have nothing down low.

You'd spend even more time kicking the clutch! lol.gif

SR20D21Dec 28, 2007, 5:30 pm · #18

Umai Naa @ Dec 24 2007, 08:07 AM
Nothing wrong with the CA ECU.

When stock, they are very flexible. It's amazing the amount of stuff you can get away with before a remap. I'll put cams in mine before I even consider getting it done.

ecu sucks even with remap sorry its true! so does its turbo and worst of all is the one runner injector layout valve seats get pitted to hell on the non fuel side and the dont get cleaned so when you get high miles on them the valve head gets about a 1/2" of crap built up on them

SharasDec 28, 2007, 5:59 pm · #19

I'll join the CA camp biggrin.gif.

It is sayed that CA was droped for beeing to expensive to build (just the same way as fj series was dropped, which should be the best of the trio, but its damn expensive to build up).
The CA has a superior head design compared to sr, but has the disatvantage in displacement. I guess the main problem is that it is becoming an old engine.

JulieDec 28, 2007, 8:27 pm · #20

it all comes down to what you wanna do with the car. my power goal is about 280hp, so i naturally sprang for the cheaper engine. i might not know everything about the 2 engines, but i know that i have enough money left over from buying my CA to dump back into it and spank a stock SR. where as the guy who buys the SR has to spend MORE money to beat my engine. im not too worried about the whole SR vs CA argument simply because theres so few of either engine around here. most S chassis cars in the area are still running the KA engines and modding those. engine swaps are just too fuckin expensive for the commoners in CT

you can argue about iron blocks, lifter problems, and turbo lag till the skin on your finger tips peels off from typing, but its always gonna come back to the same thing: how much money you have and what you wanna do with your car. im perfectly happy with my CA and eagerly await the chance to drive it around town and do what really matters: beat mustangs and ricers

asparagusDec 28, 2007, 8:34 pm · #21

julie @ Dec 28 2007, 12:27 PM
eagerly await the chance to drive it around town and do what really matters: beat mustangs and ricers

You don't sound too far off with goals like those

JulieDec 28, 2007, 9:58 pm · #22

my F350 beat a 350z the other day. people around here suck

Umai NaaDec 29, 2007, 12:52 am · #23

SR20D21 @ Dec 28 2007, 05:30 PM
ecu sucks even with remap sorry its true! so does its turbo and worst of all is the one runner injector layout valve seats get pitted to hell on the non fuel side and the dont get cleaned so when you get high miles on them the valve head gets about a 1/2" of crap built up on them

You seriously have no idea what you're talking about.

Ok, it doesn't have anti-lag, traction control, or the abilty to run without the AFM, but it is VERY tunable. The stock ECU has awesome knock sensor control, and the map resolution is pretty good for its age. Also, if you're the type that likes the thing to start and idle correctly on a cold morning, then the stock one is the go.

SharasDec 29, 2007, 2:10 pm · #24

Just add a NIStune board (well and a loptop connected to it) and it does seem to become quite a capable ecu, dont see why i would need any other aftermarket stuff (with an exception of a wideband o2 sensor, if your seriuos biggrin.gif).

SR20D21Dec 29, 2007, 11:08 pm · #25

Umai Naa @ Dec 28 2007, 04:52 PM
You seriously have no idea what you're talking about.

Ok, it doesn't have anti-lag, traction control, or the abilty to run without the AFM, but it is VERY tunable. The stock ECU has awesome knock sensor control, and the map resolution is pretty good for its age. Also, if you're the type that likes the thing to start and idle correctly on a cold morning, then the stock one is the go.

Honestly I would rather not get into it, you are arguing about an old 8 bit non consult ecu that sucks. Ya it worked OK in 1989...lol. I run both aem ems and later 16 bit nissan ecu's on my ca18det. If you are arguing that the 8 bit is better then the later 16 bit then you have no idea what your talking about.

I have three different tuning programs I have been tuning with over the years and just purchased the new realtime prog nistune/plms system.

If you are going to retune then get a later 16bit ecu. Better everything and consult, without having to purchase nistune.Get a consult cable/program, Dboard, some free tuning software and a wide band....your good to go.

and here is 2 sets of valves taken out of a high mileage ca18det.....without the fuel to cool,lube and clean it. This is what happens....Both sets of these valves are not only from the same motor but the same cylinder......

IPB Image

SR20D21Dec 30, 2007, 2:27 am · #26

Umai Naa @ Dec 29 2007, 06:07 PM
Why do you need Consult when they have self-diagnosis? Or do you not have the paperwork to understand how that works?

Holyshit did you really just say that....wow!

Anyway if your doing a daughter board tune it allows all of these features without having to purchase nistune for $400+ dollars. I build my own cables(aprox70) and the software is $50

This is consult.......call your boy!lol

It includes the following features:

* Compatible with Win98SE, Win2K, XP and Vista.
* Real time monitoring of RPM, speed, injector pulsewidth, injector duty cycle, TPS position, AFM voltage, speed, idle valve opening %, IGN timing, coolant temp, battery volts etc. All displayed on nice pseudo-analog gauges.
* Data logging on all parameters with cool inbuilt replay feature.
* Read and reset fault codes
* Active tests like "power balance" (knocks one cyl out at a time), fuel pump on/off, VCT control, temporary changes to values for coolant temp, IGN timing, AAC valve (for idle adjustment) etc.
* ROM read
* More great stuff!
IPB Image

Umai NaaDec 30, 2007, 2:49 am · #27

The Nissan Consult is a handheld diagnostic tool.

That is a PC interface that someone has developed to communicate LIKE the consult, you have posted up. The Consult is different. We have both Consult I and II at work... Gathering dust.

Besides, my 'boy' would naturally have software to show active data and what not. How else would he be able to re-map in real time?

sideways dannyDec 30, 2007, 2:52 am · #28

Umai Naa @ Dec 30 2007, 02:07 AM
Why do you need Consult when they have self-diagnosis? Or do you not have the paperwork to understand how that works?

I was going to agree with you until I got to this bit, climb back out of your own arsehole, and you might sound knowledgable rather than arrogant.

The 8-bit ECU is very tuneable, I still have it and I'm happy to continue with it. I dont see how the 16-bit gives any benefit to the operator, the maps have the same number of points, its just faster. I agree its a better ECU but also needs more work for no real tangible benefit. If you want to see what can be done with the standard CA18DET ECU, have a search for Jez Horsham (horsham developments)

Umai NaaDec 30, 2007, 2:55 am · #29

Not being arrogant at all.

Just tired of people ragging on stuff that has been proven over and over again to be very successful and functional.

PremoDec 30, 2007, 3:02 am · #30

seriously, the SR vs CA arguement is about as e-lame as the ford vs chevy arguement....to each their own.

SR20D21Dec 30, 2007, 3:09 am · #31

Umai Naa @ Dec 29 2007, 06:49 PM
The Nissan Consult is a handheld diagnostic tool.

That is a PC interface that someone has developed to communicate LIKE the consult, you have posted up. The Consult is different. We have both Consult I and II at work... Gathering dust.

Besides, my 'boy' would naturally have software to show active data and what not. How else would he be able to re-map in real time?

God do you just argue to prove you are wrong? Without out a consult ecu (without its connector to the ecu it won't happen) NOT THE CONSULT BOX!!
you have to either get nistune or ???? You cannot actively test and datalog with the CA18DET 8 bit ecu, also the later 16bit ecu has a better limiter for setting up launch limits 2step ...etc.....etc.....etc....

I am sure you will chime in about Dr. I don't care! But I am not talking about him

I am talking about your average person that is trying to tune on a budget......

Umai Naa @ Dec 29 2007, 06:55 PM
Not being arrogant at all.

Just tired of people ragging on stuff that has been proven over and over again to be very successful and functional.

Your the only one "ragging" I own and love 6 ca18det complete motors 2 sr20det's and a RB25DET but just as I own and love my sr20det's they have faults If you go back through I pointed out pros and cons of the ca I love mine and have spent thousaaands on it.

sideways danny @ Dec 29 2007, 06:52 PM
I was going to agree with you until I got to this bit, climb back out of your own arsehole, and you might sound knowledgable rather than arrogant.
The 8-bit ECU is very tuneable, I still have it and I'm happy to continue with it. I dont see how the 16-bit gives any benefit to the operator, the maps have the same number of points, its just faster. I agree its a better ECU but also needs more work for no real tangible benefit. If you want to see what can be done with the standard CA18DET ECU, have a search for Jez Horsham (horsham developments)

Also with a external multi map switcher for the daughter board you should be able to use anti-lag timing on launch limit mapping as well! On the stock 16bit ecu.
I have yet to try it but should work I was waiting to get my engine built up a little.

sideways dannyDec 30, 2007, 3:19 am · #32

The trouble with using the 16-bit ECU is, first you will need to convert the loom, then you will need to fit a daughter board, then you will need to run 2 emulators to do live mapping. Thats expensive in my view, where the 8-bit ECU can be tuned with just a socket and a single emulator (using a moates ostrich myself, with tunerpro software)

If you're going to the trouble of changing the loom to run a 16-bit, just get a PowerFC

SR20D21Dec 30, 2007, 3:29 am · #33

sideways danny @ Dec 29 2007, 07:19 PM
The trouble with using the 16-bit ECU is, first you will need to convert the loom, then you will need to fit a daughter board, then you will need to run 2 emulators to do live mapping. Thats expensive in my view, where the 8-bit ECU can be tuned with just a socket and a single emulator (using a moates ostrich myself, with tunerpro software)

If you're going to the trouble of changing the loom to run a 16-bit, just get a PowerFC

I simply made a harness adapter that converts it at the ecu ca female ripped from the ecu to sr harness end from a already cut harness that I got for free.....as The honda guys do (obd1 to obd0 to obd2 etc)

As for emulators I loan mine out for a small fee to people I know and it has almost payed for itself....get a couple guys together split the cost

The 8 bit also needs a romulator to realtime tune, you save only the cost of one thats all.

Fitting the daughter board is an easy process or you can pay your local electronics house $50 to do it for you.

I have some original beta's and finals of Live edit I no longer use I may get rid of. How do you like the tunerpro??

mats12Dec 30, 2007, 3:33 am · #34

SR20D21 @ Dec 30 2007, 02:09 PM
I am talking about your average person that is trying to tune on a budget......

I'm not an expert in these matters but (in Australia at least) the cost of re-tuning the stock CA18DET ecu versus changing to another system is a lot cheaper than any other option. From when I last spoke to Sam, he charges around $550aud to modify the ecu and then dyno tune the CA18DET. The next option would be at least $1500aud over here.

Also I have owned an SR20DET, CA18DET and RB25DET.

p.s. I have personally witnessed a CA18DET making 285kw at the wheels with the factory ecu and all the a/f/ ratios looking good. I'm sure the motor would've died some way later because that much power even from a modded CA is just silly, but the tuning was good.

misterrickDec 30, 2007, 4:25 am · #35

everyone just put a ford 5.0 in their car and live with it! lol

Umai NaaDec 30, 2007, 8:45 am · #36

I'd go an LS1, personally, but that would just open up another can of BS smile.gif

mats12Dec 30, 2007, 9:13 am · #37

SR20D21 @ Dec 30 2007, 03:09 PM
That is a great price but is it a one time shot?

What if you upgrade?

Another $550?

Some tuners make a deal on upgrade retunes but it still adds up.

There are very few people from where I am from that will touch a stock ecu from a nissan so unless you convert it to hondata, want to buy AEM,powerfc etc your on your own pinch2.gif
I now own all my hardware/software and can retune as many times as I want to any car with a SR or CA or.......I've been messing with SR/CA since....well to long....I have a good handle on what I want.

Nice that is around the same KW/HP levels I am shooting for on my DD should be fun w00t2.gif

Once you mod the ecu it can be re-mappped easily for normal dyno tuning fees approx $100 per hour I think. So it just depends on how long it takes. I guess that Ausies have gotten into remapping the CA18DE(T) ecu because it is similar to the very popular RB30E(T) ecu found on australian VL commodores and R31 Skylines. Also being close to Japan they get their hands on their modded ECU's to learn from. That said most Aussie performance shops will only go with an aftermarket ECU and then will only specialise in one or two of them. The only real appeal of keeping the factory ECU for me is to kep my car legal.

NebuchernezzerDec 30, 2007, 9:37 am · #38

Kind of, the guy I know who tunes CA18DETs does all Nissan ECUs, it wasn't a crossover from the VLs and R31s really though (he started with SRs actaully and branched out from there) maybe it's different for other operators though. I don't know what DrDrift started with but he seems to be pretty famous in CA circles.

Lots of people in oz go with all sorts of silly options when they should go with remaps, people put in microtechs, autronics etc etc when all they really needed was a bit of a tweak on the stock ECU and off they go. Or they buy a Power FC (even CA guys look around for the Ap Eng ones).

Having said that the old remap is gaining popularity and I feel that there is no need to use anything else unless your goals are pretty lofty (like really lofty, I don't see any reason why a 300rwkw engine needs anything other then a remapped OEM ECU unless you need logging or somthing like that, and even then you can probably manage that from the stock ECU as well).

My Silvia (and prior to that my S12) run a PLMS daughterboard that has all the capability to do a real time tune, for $200 extra (and the originaly board is only around the $200 mark itself) you can get a lisence and the software and remap it yourself or take it down to the dyno place and get them to real time tune it.
Cheap deals. Alot cheaper then the preferred choice amongst import drivers in oz, the Power FC.

Less BS about the CA18DET, it's a good motor if like all motors you realise it's limits. It has it's limits and for my purposes I would usually choose the SR, but if the right project came up I'd happily use the little CA.
I've driven one or two of them and they go quite well even with just a cat back, just don't try to be a horsepower hero with one because it'll be about as reliable as somthing made in Italy in the 1960s.

Horses for courses, my own personal feeling is that if you want less then around 180rwkw then the CA is a good choice, if you want more powah then that I'd get somthing else.

Umai NaaDec 30, 2007, 9:41 am · #39

Italy?!

Fix It Again, Tony! lol.gif

sideways dannyDec 30, 2007, 2:20 pm · #40

SR20D21 @ Dec 30 2007, 03:29 AM
I have some original beta's and finals of Live edit I no longer use I may get rid of. How do you like the tunerpro??

I still use live edit to scale the injectors and MAF just for simplicity, but Tunerpro is brilliant for everything else. the address files (xdf) are not simple, a guy from the UK disassembled the CA bin and its available on ztechz. I dont know how it works with a romulator but with an ostrich its faultless.

PremoDec 31, 2007, 2:13 am · #41

Umai Naa @ Dec 30 2007, 12:45 AM I'd go an LS1, personally, but that would just open up another can of BS smile.gif

here....we......go......! LOL