Ca18.5det Build-up

Started by sicj · Jun 7, 2008 · 34postsSMF 2010–26

sicjJun 7, 2008, 7:40 pm · #1

PARTS LIST
-Wiseco 84mm pistons
-Fully balanced rotating assembly. Crank balanced, stock rods match, pistons matched.
-ACL Race Series rod/main bearings
-New OEM oil pump
-Tomei 270 8.8mm cams, pulleys, and valve springs
-Port/Polished head, secondaries, and manifold
-Cometic MLS headgasket
-ARP headstuds
-KA24E throttle body
-Ajusa full gasket kit
-Greddy timing belt
-Fidanza SR20 ultra lightweight 9.5lb flywheel
-SPEC SR20 stage 4 clutch
-Maxima N60 MAF
-Magnafuel fuel pressure regulator
-SARD R2D2 bov

everything else will be stock for the time being: turbo, manifold, wastegate etc...

posted image

lost a valve spring seat during the tear down/wash. So I have 15 out of 16 valves in now, waiting on Nissan to get the seats in.
posted image

Tried positiong the squirter in. But the counterweight and rod hit near TDC. This is two washers and reposition.
posted image

One washer and reposition to the outside of the piston. I also had to trim the locating tab on the squirter to turn it to the side.
posted image

and the build stops until my cams come in. The place I ordered from screwed up and mixed up a cancel order and cancelled my order instead of someone elses. So just waiting on those so I can assemble the rest of the head and throw it on the block.

bartc_jJun 7, 2008, 11:52 pm · #2

very nice man cant wait to see this beast up and running.. what turbo you looking at using

The TremorJun 8, 2008, 1:26 am · #3

Nice set-up!!!

So i see you have a SR20 flywheel. So can you use the sr20 flywheel and clutch with the ca18det motor and tranny? Or what do you have to do to make it work. Thanks.

sicjJun 8, 2008, 11:44 am · #4

bartc_j - I will be running the stock T25 w/ manifold for now. Future (final) plans are GT28 w/ external wastegate and header.

The Tremor - Yes the SR20 Flywheel and clutch/pressure plate will work. Both the CA and SR flywheels are 8 bolt mounting. The problem: SR flywheel is much bigger so you need to grind the inside of the trans bellhousing away to clear it all. Then you need to get the CA18ET starter as it is slightly different and meshes up to the larger SR flywheel.

I tried getting a CA specific flywheel through JUN (~$430) but it was going to take 2 months and wasn't a ultra lightweight flywheel like the Fidanza I bought. The other CA flywheel is from Toda but that shit's ~$1,000!

So I opted to get a 9.5lb flywheel for $300 and grind for clearaces.

silvia loveJun 8, 2008, 1:27 pm · #5

ohh very nice. me like. man i wish i could finish up my project.
wouldnt it be a ca20det though?

sicjJun 8, 2008, 2:06 pm · #6

silvia loveohh very nice. me like. man i wish i could finish up my project.
wouldnt it be a ca20det though?

No. Even f I got 85mm pistons it would only be a 1.9L. 2.0L would need 87mm pistons which would be a .160" overbore (which you can't physically bore out to without hitting water jackets)
Tomei's 2.0L kit is also a stroker kit so they not only get more displacement through the bore but stroke as well.

I went from the stock bore (3.2687") to a .040" larger bore = 3.3087"
I lost my conversion paper from my Blueprinting class, but it shows how to convert the bore and # of cylinders to a liter conversion...84mm pistons makes it out to be a 1.85L

ArroJun 8, 2008, 2:23 pm · #7

Actually boring it over .040 won't bring it to .5 more liters *I don't think*... you'd need to bore it around .060 if my brain is crunching numbers right. And you couldn't bore it enough to gain 2 more liters for a 2.0. That's why the 2.0L CA block is taller.

Edit: he beat me to it

IggyEGuanaJun 8, 2008, 9:53 pm · #8

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm in love!

Linky for SR20DET flywheel how-to
http://www.driftopia.com/2007/06/21/instal...to-the-ca18det/

The starter needed is the gear reduction unit from some turbo S12s. Its hoodless which is why it works.

brewster240Jun 8, 2008, 10:30 pm · #9

if you use a good clutch/flywheel combo you wont need to use a new starter, in the end it winds up being about the same price as a new lwf and clutch set.

posted image

heres a stock sr20 flywheel for those interested.

IggyEGuanaJun 9, 2008, 12:27 am · #10

ur high

1) the lowest price I found 4 that blitz clutch (the cheapest of it's type) was $788. Fidanza alum flywheel these days (getting cheaper) is about $280 shipped from ebay. Various clutch kits are $120 (Basic OEM) to $170 (6 Puck) and $200+ for the overpriced shit.

2) How much does that whole thing weigh?

3) Does a 200 to 300 crank HP engine really need a 750+HP clutch?

My point is some of us don't feel the need to show off our blingin JDM tyte parts and prefer to do things within our USDM tight budgets.

SORRY TO GO OFF TOPIC ON UR BUILD THREAD sicj!!!!!
I quit

PeacockJun 9, 2008, 12:36 am · #11

Any of you NorCal CA18det guys wanna help a desperate man w/ the same swap out. My car is dead and in Concord. See my thread for more info, but I could really use your help in person. I'm willing to pay too (not a ton though). PM me.

brewster240Jun 9, 2008, 1:00 am · #12

IggyEGuanaur high

1) the lowest price I found 4 that blitz clutch (the cheapest of it's type) was $788. Fidanza alum flywheel these days (getting cheaper) is about $280 shipped from ebay. Various clutch kits are $120 (Basic OEM) to $170 (6 Puck) and $200+ for the overpriced shit.

2) How much does that whole thing weigh?

3) Does a 200 to 300 crank HP engine really need a 750+HP clutch?

My point is some of us don't feel the need to show off our blingin JDM tyte parts and prefer to do things within our USDM tight budgets.

SORRY TO GO OFF TOPIC ON UR BUILD THREAD sicj!!!!!
I quit

calm down there chachi.

1. you can pick them up used for cheap, and the beauty of them is they are rebuildable.
a 170 6 puck is joke, have fun with that, 200 for a good clutch is not overpriced shit, the cheap clutches you are looking at are shit, have fun with them. ive changed out to many of them for cheap kids who think that looking the same means they work just as good.

2. i dont remember exactly

3. thats the single disc version, not the dual, its only rated for about 400hp, do a little more research before you spew bullshit.

my point is, with things like clutches, its best to spend money on good parts the first time then replace them over and over. why spend 500 on custom pistons, and 170 on a cheap shit ebay clutch that is gonna not last, slip, not handle half the horsepower rating it claims too, and destroy your fidanza flywheel in the process?

its not jdm bling bling, its using your head and doing research, and learning from your own and others experience.

i dont quit, i wish i would have though and i wouldnt have half the shit filling my garage from broken projects ive fixed for people who cheaped out the first time around.

oh, and also, i said to use that desing of clutch, not a blitz exactly, you can also get them from nismo, exedy, etc all with rebuildable parts.

you know why i say this?

because then you can use the ca18det starter.

you know why i say to use the ca18det starter?

cause if you use the stock sr flywheel, with the 18et/20e hoodless starter, it wont always lign up properly, and will give you a death shreak grinding noise.

you know why you have to use the hoodless starter with the oem sr style flywheel?

cause the flat face of the flywheel where the pressure plate sticks out farther, notice how you cant see the ring gear on the oem flywheel?

if you dont use the hoodless the end of the starter rubs on that.

know why i know this?

cause i have done all the setups and seen first hand what works.

to op, vewy noice buildup.

ArroJun 9, 2008, 1:21 am · #13

Without a harsh tone, I agree with Brewster... you don't want to plunk down on expensive innards for your engine and not back them up with a solid, beefy clutch kit.

If I pull my engine to ever beef it up inside, you can bet I'll beef up the clutch along with other things.

RB25sx - SLPRJun 9, 2008, 2:50 am · #14

Without a harsh tone, I agree with Brewster... you don't want to plunk down on expensive innards for your engine and not back them up with a solid, beefy clutch kit.

If I pull my engine to ever beef it up inside, you can bet I'll beef up the clutch along with other things.

X2

Also it should be said that clutches are rated in terms of sliding mu values and static mu values. These being the relation to the amount of force (torque = distance X force) required to break the surfaces free of each other, and required to make the adhere again once they have broken free.

In my books a $200+ clutch is the baseline of prices.. Start at OEM and move up, aftermarket oem imitations are not applicable and neither are painted orange and yellow pressure plates from ebay.

Back on topic:

Nice build! I love a good engine build! Did you CC the cylinder heads for that exact C/R value?

-Dan

sicjJun 9, 2008, 8:03 am · #15

whoa this almost got outta hand LoL.

I think a Fidanza flywheel and SPEC clutch are a good combo and it's definitely not skimping out by any means.

RB25sx - SLPR - No. No CC of the heads, just straight garage porting job. I made them all "even" with the 'finger test' The moment my finger slid past the valve guide it's matched, then a little clean up. All the machining I did was free (school project) so CC a head would go against free. haha!

TalkingGoatsJun 9, 2008, 8:17 am · #16

Sweet. This should be a fun and strong motor.

brewster240Jun 9, 2008, 12:24 pm · #17

be wary of spec. ive heard both good and bad.

my one personal experience has been bad. its no fun when you spend all winter building your friends motor with him, and the brand supposedly over rated clutch starts slipping on the dyno.

i can say ive had great luck with act, and centerforce. theres a reason they've been in business for so long, while others come and go.

sicjJun 9, 2008, 10:08 pm · #18

brewster240 - we'll see how the spec works out. My friend has a SPEC stage 2 on his bone stock CA18DET in an s12 and beats the holy piss outta it and it still grabs great.

MORE UPDATES

posted image

...and some eye candy
posted image

brewster240Jun 10, 2008, 1:17 am · #19

nice and clean, but not fresh paint for your block?

sicjJun 10, 2008, 9:53 am · #20

I need to clean the oil pan first and then spray it. Black block and a gold oil pan.

drfts12Jun 12, 2008, 5:29 am · #21

sicjbrewster240 - we'll see how the spec works out. My friend has a SPEC stage 2 on his bone stock CA18DET in an s12 and beats the holy piss outta it and it still grabs great.

I think i'm that friend. lol. you've gone far ways my friend. I'll still launch on your ass with my new secret machine. hehehe

sicjJun 14, 2008, 8:47 pm · #22

*UPDATES*

sicjJul 1, 2008, 3:07 pm · #23

since I will be running an electric water pump I needed to do something about the stock block-mounted water pump. The company I bought the electric water pump from suggested I cut the blades off the stock pump when using the electric pump.

I had a better idea. I would turn the stock pump into a block-off plate for the block.

So I chopped the pulley end off the pump and gutted everything.
posted image

Then I made a block-off plate for the end, as well as tapped some grub screws into the pump where there were two "leak" holes.

painted and bolted up.

ATMAJul 5, 2008, 6:11 am · #24

nicely done, did u check and make sure it was 100% leak proof :s. btw where did u get ur electric water pump from and how much was it? and if it was more is it worth the extra cash? >.>

sicjNo. Even f I got 85mm pistons it would only be a 1.9L. 2.0L would need 87mm pistons which would be a .160" overbore (which you can't physically bore out to without hitting water jackets)
Tomei's 2.0L kit is also a stroker kit so they not only get more displacement through the bore but stroke as well.

I went from the stock bore (3.2687") to a .040" larger bore = 3.3087"
I lost my conversion paper from my Blueprinting class, but it shows how to convert the bore and # of cylinders to a liter conversion...84mm pistons makes it out to be a 1.85L

i made a thread over here with info to a useful calc find it here: http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=22540

sicjJul 9, 2008, 1:20 pm · #25

*UPDATES*

Decided against the cams for now since there such a pain in the ass to get. I just want to get this thing done, in, and smash it. Plus I need that cash to get my oil cooler and fuel system setup

So I threw the stockers back in and threw the head on with some ARP studs and a Cometic head gasket.
posted image

Greddy timing belt

now I need to source the correct gasket from the head to the secondaries, then I can throw the manifold on.
The one in my gasket kit is totally wrong. Any suggestions?

sicjJul 24, 2008, 1:26 pm · #26

To do list:
-Get injectors tested
-Make turbo lines
-Make manifold/head lines (coolant/PCV/vacuum)
-Install new misc. sensors
-Finish up valve covers. (weld on AN fittings to PCV ports)
-Custom mount 160amp alt.
-Steal P/S stuff from friends non-op CA

IggyEGuanaJul 24, 2008, 2:45 pm · #27

sweet man

get a ca18det/ca18de/ca16de exhaust cam and put it on ur intake side. Surprisingly good upgrade according to peeps on NICO. Supposed to pull to redline instead of dyin off at bout 7200.

If you can't find the right gasket theres always the option of makin it. GL

oh btw Tomei poncams and sometimes procams can be found on ebay. Bout $550 and up shipped

PaulJul 25, 2008, 12:01 am · #28

^ I have an exhaust cam you can have for like 20 bucks plus shipping

gerrybgJul 25, 2008, 1:19 am · #29

Might like to unbolt thew outlet snout off the turbo and rotate it anticlockwise 1/3 turn. It makes for slightly shorter and straighter intercooler piping.

sicjJul 25, 2008, 2:29 am · #30

IggyEGuana - Yeah I've heard about the intake cam swap. Sounds interesting and also sounds like I'll need adjustable gears. Stock will be fine for now. Let me get use to the car/engine and have no surprise first startup problems ya know?

I wound up making the gasket from a roll of do-it-yourself gasket material for about $1.50

Yeah I had a line on the cams for ~$480 shipped but then need another ~$280+ in gears! and then need it tuned ($400 for Nistune)...so I can put roughly $1200 towards other stuff like the intercooler, oil cooler, fuel pump, custom AN lines etc...

Paul - Thanks dude, but I'm going to pass from what I said above. Thanks though!

gerrybg - The way I'm thinking of doing my mid-mount intercooler with a straight shot V-mount IC, with the piping running over the top of the layed back radiator. The way the outlet is now I think it will line up perfect and not interfere with the cold air intake tube I plan on running to the left-front of the engine compartment, plus minimize any S-bends in the hot pipe to got over the radiator. We'll see though. It's only three bolts!

RB25sx - SLPRJul 25, 2008, 7:51 pm · #31

FYI on the secondaries gasket. Generally speaking manifold surfaces are fairly well machined and flat. I find alot of times a thin skim of gasket sealer and proper torque does the trick..

-Dan

sicjJul 26, 2008, 12:50 pm · #32

RB25sx - SLPRFYI on the secondaries gasket. Generally speaking manifold surfaces are fairly well machined and flat. I find alot of times a thin skim of gasket sealer and proper torque does the trick..

-Dan

yeah I got the gasket handled *see manifold installed* cut my own from some gasket material

drfts12Sep 16, 2008, 7:41 pm · #33

sweeeet

sideways_s12Sep 17, 2008, 4:55 pm · #34

damn your project looks good man that thing is gonna be a beast