On A Quest For The 400hp Single Cam

On to my build It's an 86 s12 with a ca18et power plant mods so far are:

msd coils with the dual coil mod
t25g on 7psi
3 inch exhaust from the turbo back
pov removal
and cold air intake

now on with the pics

Before:









After











mods to come:

euro cam
ported head
JE pistons and det rods
also t28 0r larger
and a standalone
also a walbro fuel pump
and bigger injectors

so there's the start of my build

Looks better with the black wheels. Get you some springs, mang! I'd do it before anything else.

And an intercooler.

I got an intercooler from my black car that was givin to me.







just haven't had time to install it

How long is it?

haven't had time to measure it will do that tomarrow since with some luck and waylon's help I'll be installing it tomarrow

lolitzjuschillinondacouch

yeah those are pics I took at the last minute cuz arro wanted to see it lol

your car looks like my car  lol...my intercooler is about the same size also haha

damn hell yeah it does lol do you have the se kit as well?

nope just the turbo lip hit...but i want the se front lip haha..but so does every1 els

I got one that I'm gonna be putting on soon tehe...

11psi!! mwahaha!!!

11psi + no IC + no fuel management + no fuel metering = jiffy-pop pistons.

lmao!!

good job

thanks

post that measurement on  here so I don't have to dig through cellphone text messages lol...

So when is Waylon gonna tack them into place? I'm  assuming he'll help with this...

Arropost that measurement on  here so I don't have to dig through cellphone text messages lol...

So when is Waylon gonna tack them into place? I'm  assuming he'll help with this...

*doh*

ok looked at what you sent me... the core is 28x6" front, 2.5" thick.

Something I was just thinking of.  If the sputtering at 14-16psi is in fact detonation then wouldn't the ca18et's knock sensor detect that and go to limp mode?  Or at least throw a CEL?  Kinda dumb if all it does is kill fuel and/or spark for a brief moment and not even let us know whats wrong.

BTW guys I fiiinaaaly got a T25G.  Mayb my car will actually run soon and Jason's vette eater won't be the "fastest S12 in Vegas" anymore.  WHA!!!!!  OH SHIT!!

IggyEGuanaSomething I was just thinking of.  If the sputtering at 14-16psi is in fact detonation then wouldn't the ca18et's knock sensor detect that and go to limp mode?  Or at least throw a CEL?  Kinda dumb if all it does is kill fuel and/or spark for a brief moment and not even let us know whats wrong.

BTW guys I fiiinaaaly got a T25G.  Mayb my car will actually run soon and Jason's vette eater won't be the "fastest S12 in Vegas" anymore.  WHA!!!!!  OH SHIT!!

Nah it'll still be the fastest lol dets got nuthing on me hahahaha j/k anyway lets get that shit started already next check I'm ordering the euro cam and then after that I'm gonna be getting some head work done

on with th dsm injectors muahahahahaha

Who's making your custom fuel rail for you? Because I assume you know that DSM are o-ring and CA18ET are hose-style. Incompatible without custom rail.

ask bart if he is still making his fuel rail..

I have one that he made.

orly, is it the o-ring one or what? take a pic of what you got.

You can ask him, just PM him about getting one for o-ringed injectors. I dunno if he'll still make them.

I got something up my sleeve haha oh and I'm at 15psi on the t25g and it pulls like a raped ape I figured out my sputtering problem turned out I had a leaky injector fixed that and no more sputter woot.
And before you go bashing me I'm doing this on purpose since noone really knows what Kind of boost the stock set-up can run well I can be the first to tell you that it can handle 15psi on the stock set-up been running for a bit now and running it hard and it seems to be doing fine and Arro before you say it "it just feels like it's pulling harder" Ask waylon he was in my car and he can tell you that it pulls. oh and oh well if it blows I have a spare motor waiting so the point is to see how much boost I can get and so far it's 15psi on the t25g with stock set-up

when i had my et i boosted it 18 psi acouple times lol with the fuel on safc turned all the way up..but it felt just as fast as when i was boosting like 13psi..i had t25 fmic 3inch exhaust msd coils and safc neo..i only did it a hand full of times tho..and my air/fuel ratio was like 12.8 around there

not bad all I have is 3inch exhaust cold air intake and msd coils I want to see how much boost the ca will hold on the stock set-up before rods start to bend and pistons decide to tell me to fuck off

turbos12but it felt just as fast as when i was boosting like 13psi..

sideways_s12pistons decide to tell me to fuck off

hahaha yup but I will go with bigger injectors when I get a bigger snail because I want to see what the rods can handle before I run out of fuel

Why would you want to grenade an engine just for the hell of it? I mean unless you have a lot of $$$ to just do a quick rebuild, what's the point? lol

HAHA I will let Jason give you his answer.  I'll just say its definetly not about blowin a motor for the hell of it.

I'm not blowing the motor for the hell of it nobody knows what the 18et's bottom end will hold as far as boost goes so I'm giving you fact on how much it can hold before the rods and pistons tell me to fuck off that way you can have a solid number and future et builders will know what they can work with before they have to go stronger on the bottom end and besides I want to know what it will do as well if I want to hang vettes like the z06 J, we talked about this before through an im why do you sound so surprised. also I have 2 spares waitng and a dd so down time wont be a big thing for me anymore Just trying to help the with factual numbers that can actually work.

So far I got 15psi out of the t25g on the stock set-up minus the obvious mods like intake and exhaust and coils other than that it's stock, stock head and bottomend. I know what your thinking most pepole junk the 18et for something better which is infact true but what about the guy who doesn't have the money to swap and wants his car to go fast on a budget smaller than what it cost to swap. Wouldn't it be good to know what his limits are for the power he wants to make? what has to be changed right away and what doesn't? This will in fact be my first contributing thread to the s12 community other than all the other nonsense I post about or to...

But you WILL blow up without proper fuel and intercooling. So I take it you're trying to see how much it can take STOCK, i.e. stock block, stock head, stock fuel, stock intake (no intercooler)?

Because just putting on an intercooler and some fuel mods means it can take a LOT more than what it can without them. That was kinda my point before. If you're trying to see what it will take with JUST more boost, then that's a different story. Just be aware it's significantly less than with other supporting mods.

You know, if that's true, you COULD rig up a cold start injector as a water sprayer in your over-the-valvecover tube, and use water injection as an intercooling method. You just run the water hose to your windshield wiper reservoir and run a 50/50 alcohol and water mix (which works nice for windows, too). It works wonders, but be careful not to run out when boosting up!

I could always show you how to build an electric switch for your boost control that moves it from high to low (stock) from inside the dash, with just a flick of the switch. It's cheap and not hard to put together. Might be just the trick if you seriously consider my water injection suggestion.

At least until you put in the intercooler. And of course, nothing says you can't run both techniques.

ArroBut you WILL blow up without proper fuel and intercooling. So I take it you're trying to see how much it can take STOCK, i.e. stock block, stock head, stock fuel, stock intake (no intercooler)?

Arroorly, is it the o-ring one or what? take a pic of what you got.

You can ask him, just PM him about getting one for o-ringed injectors. I dunno if he'll still make them.

ArroYou know, if that's true, you COULD rig up a cold start injector as a water sprayer in your over-the-valvecover tube, and use water injection as an intercooling method. You just run the water hose to your windshield wiper reservoir and run a 50/50 alcohol and water mix (which works nice for windows, too). It works wonders, but be careful not to run out when boosting up!

I could always show you how to build an electric switch for your boost control that moves it from high to low (stock) from inside the dash, with just a flick of the switch. It's cheap and not hard to put together. Might be just the trick if you seriously consider my water injection suggestion.

At least until you put in the intercooler. And of course, nothing says you can't run both techniques.

Well the dsm 450's are in and I can't begin to tell you how good that shit feels when under boost and no you don't need a custom rail to do it.

All you need is:

2ft of goodyear 3/8's fuel injection hose you'll know what I'm talking about because it has a blue inner coding

450's from a dsm
and an o ring kit for the same injectors (I used ones from a 91 eclipse awd turbo)

Also need hose clamps

You will also need the rubber boot that holds our injectors in that black plastic housing they have a spot on them for the rubber boot.

step one: Take of old oring from the top of the dsm injectors also the rubber boot at the base of the injector top.

step two: cut hose to length and apply to injector (using wd40 will help with the ease of getting the hose on)

step three: apply hose clamps to both ends of hose.

step four: Take the silver washer that goes on the top of the black plastic housing and slide that onto the injector then take the rubber boot (if in good conditon) and slide that on in the slot This is what holds the silver washer on.

step five: Add the newly bought oring to the bottom of the injector (this is what seals the injector in the manni) repeat with other three injectors.

step six: remove old injectors from manifold and install the new ones you'll have to be careful not to over tighten the screws or the rubber boot will come off. We used three washers on each screw and 2 washers (silver ones on top of black plastic housing) just to be safe.

yeah that's fuel grade line.

the vlsd output shafts won't bolt up to our axles iirc

methylpropYa I know of a guy on here who has a nismo lsd, but he wont answer his phone. I will catch him in the next few days. I found a vlsd for a 90 300zx n.a. for 99 bucks. The output shafts are going to be the expensive part. $150.00 ea from nissan. I did buy some new moog tie rod ends today.
The top mount insert for the rear diff is shot. I've been thinking about just having a solid type made. There is a shop across the street from my work that said they would make it if i brought it to them. but wold I take a chance of cracking the diff case with out being able to flex a little? I would make it much stiffer.

dont worry bout the play in the ring and pinion.  its normal.  Check ur gearset to be sure.  Google ring and pinion contact patch.

Solid diff mount is easy and causes no problem with the diff.  Just weld in some washers that fit.  Viscous LSD sucks.

I sold my vg30e with the auto trans for 300 bucks. I threw in the drive shaft, harness and comp. It will be going in  my old 240 hatch with a 5 speed. the kid got a great deal. that motor has less than 400 miles on the rebuild. i cant say enough about how great the n/a vg30e is. with a full intake, exhuast and a lil tuning that motor was f-ing awsome.

 I took it out and did a few red light races. I got my ass handed to me by a ss cobalt but it run really well i know it had to have a few bolt ons. but i did beat a 1jz turbo auto supra . I dont think that kid new how to drive though cuz i stompt his ass but 2 full car lenghts. but my friend was behind me and he got to see it all. I also race my brothers s13 with a sr he did beat me and i knew he would, that sr is agressive.

The 300 will get me a j30 oil pan and pick up. So it will help me get the engine bolted in the SE. Any one who says a vg30de or vg30dett will bolt right into the SE cross member need to be punched in the head. the SE cross member pushed the engine as far back as possible. there is no way a rear sump engine will bolt in. thats where the j30 parts come in. I'm fairly confedent that it will bolt in with the new pan and pick up.

After i get done with the swap i will try to make a write up for the swap, or have some one help write it for me. I dont explain myself very well at times. but i plan to make this easy and well built. i would like to use oem type nissan parts all but the drive shaft. i want to drop the carrier bearing it's bad any way.

bad bad bad bad f-ing news

So I sent my engine back. There will be no vg30dett swap. FUCKING BULL SHIT. I hate these irresponsible fucks i call my familey. Any way I had to get the money back to take care of there shit. so I'm just fucked.

What happened?

Every thing is all good. I'm going to have to give some of the money to familey cuz they cant get there shit together. I do still have plenty of cash to dump in the SE. Thinking 5 speed swap and lsd.

Next year i will go twin turbo. I might go vg30e or dett. I've worked to hard for this build and i will not give up. just set back. if these f-ers had there shit together this wouldn't be an issue. The shitty part about it is, I'm the youngest in my familey and every one looks to me for a handout. but if i need something... ha.

Well i just got off the phone with a guy with a vg30de 5speed swap. I do have the cash to cover it.

 thinking........

how much hp are you really wanting here?