Nick's S12

well, a lack of a camera is teh gayz, but oh well... maybe ill pickup another cheap $50 walmart camera butt......

last time i had posted something (iirc in the fs section) i was selling the car and needed a place to store it... I lucked up on an awesome guy and place to store it for 75 a month(gotta hurry)

anyway, i gots no pics yet, but hopefully im picking up a camera tonight...

The FJ20E IS OUT OF THE CAR  WOOT!!!

now, gota find a competent machine shop to tear it down and inspect it. Pulling it was a pita, but probably the easiest motor I've pulled... not much there cept a big azz 4cyl

But I did notice that I checked the entire exhaust, there was no O2 sensor or wire anywhere to be found ?

Here are some pics to get started, just so I don't make a first post with no pics

FJ's ECCS didn't use a closed loop system like most modern ones, so no O2. It's normal, there's a lot of euro engines that didn't have one as well.

Thats such a cool car, glad you are keeping it.  $75 seems really high tho.  Take lots of pics!! If you have just a regular camera,  you can shoot all the pics with regular film, but when you go to get it developed just tell them you want digital versions only.  I processed shit, like 12 rolls of film and just had them digitalized, it was like less than $15.  This was thru Jewel/Osco, dunno if you have those there, otherwise check with walmart and see if they can do the same thing.

Just keep in mind, which people seem to forget, most film cameras cannot take clear pics closer than 3ft unless you have a good one, so detail shots are pretty much worthless.  that or find out if yours can.  digital all the way for me, thats for sure.

I would kill for those snub bumpers, those are soo cool.  we need to have replicas made...

wipe your lens off, right in the middle lol

VG30_S12well, a lack of a camera is teh gayz, but oh well... maybe ill pickup another cheap $50 walmart camera butt......

last time i had posted something (iirc in the fs section) i was selling the car and needed a place to store it... I lucked up on an awesome guy and place to store it for 75 a month(gotta hurry)

anyway, i gots no pics yet, but hopefully im picking up a camera tonight...

The FJ20E IS OUT OF THE CAR  WOOT!!!

now, gota find a competent machine shop to tear it down and inspect it. Pulling it was a pita, but probably the easiest motor I've pulled... not much there cept a big azz 4cyl

But I did notice that I checked the entire exhaust, there was no O2 sensor or wire anywhere to be found ?

Here are some pics to get started, just so I don't make a first post with no pics

well, not really an update, but more pics
oh, and as per Arro's request, pics of the hood for some stickaz
[a href=\"http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii306/VG30_S12/EuroS12/IMG_0028.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"]
[a href=\"http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii306/VG30_S12/EuroS12/IMG_0020.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"]
cheers

you have a euro S12 from what i know only euro cars have wiper arms on them lmao

anyway GL

and....

I hate you let me buy the FJ

Glad you decided to keep it.

I always wondered how they crammed the wiper on popups... I guess that answers that.

Also notice the bumpers are shorter than US ones. We got these in Australia, they are shorter as they don't have a styrofoam pad under them.

Huh, didn't quite notice that... Neat-o. I was gonna do that on my bumpers, but I wonder how hard it would be to get some of those covers.

I really don't want to spend that much time with a plastic welder or glues.

THIS CAR IS SOOO BADASS I should have bought it when you were selling it!  but, I think cali would be confused on the registration, LOL

sure as hell looks like a LSD to me, probably a VLSD, is there an orange tag on it anywhere?

I absolutely LOVE the look of the shorter non-US market bumpers, if it weren't a whole bunch of $$ to get them here I would definitely like to pick up a set.

Update on the motor
finally got it to a friend of mine who owns a machine shop...
we tore the oil pan off and got to looking... im really not to sure if its looking good for me... i think it may turn into an uphill battle...

for starters, NO OIL WHATSOEVER and it wont turn over at all...
there was a bolt and a nut in the Oil pan, along with large metal flakes...
pulled bearing cap 4, looked ok
bearing cap 1, looked ok
bearing cap 3, pretty much toasty
iirc bearing 4 was good too

HOWEVER, after removing the caps and pistons, we discovered a bolt wedged between the inside of the block and the crank weights... looked like a rod bolt... and the crank still wont turn over with no pistons connected...

the good news is that the machinist friend said that if needed, he could actually forge me a new crank... i dunno if that's really even possible but he sounded confident atleast...

well, that's all i know for now, he took the engine and said that hell look more into it, my guess is that its the main/crank bearings
ill be removing the head soon and ill try and snag some pics of the carnage asap

cheers

also flynlow, i hope your watching buddy

As sterling said it could be a viscous LSD.  They don't become limited slip until the fliud inside is over a certain temperature.

Sucks about the main bearing.  Ur engine builder scares me.

...

some pics of the carnage... I really wonder what happend to this motor... we found the shavings of the #3 Rod bearing in the oil pan with a few studs and nuts  theres a stud stuck between the crank and the block and the crank still wont budge even after disconnecting the rod(which moved nearly freely)

wondering if this is going to be too much... and a new crank will probably cost me way too much... oh well, trying to keep optimistic...













What do you guys think?

once you get it all apart, you will have to go over the damage with your engine machinist and determine what or can it be fixed.  sometimes the cranks can be welded and then machined back to tolerance, this takes a competent machinest with the proper equipment which may be difficult to find.  I would get more than one quote too, just so you are sure the guy isn't purposly quoting real high to avoid doing the work/liability, even if its a friend of yours.  Forgive my relative stupidity, but isn't Nascar shops pretty big down there?  They would probably have a couple of engine sources/shops that do their work and would have the equipment.  That doesn't mean you'll take the whole thing to them, but if you choose a local guy he may do most of the work and send the rest to another larger shop, thats commonly how its done here.

I would also look into importing a FJ from overseas, either our European friends (they are much closer to you than Japan) or from a west coast distributor, but I was talking with a guy out there and the FJ's are becoming rather uncommon due to age, and compare this cost to the potential cost of machining straight your current motor.

Make sure if you do get one from Europe or direct from elsewhere to talk to Colin (Draconis) because he knows the ins&outs of importing, its very important how its labelled.  Really, you would just need the bottom end, but if you're shipping, might as well get the whole thing.

So just get it all apart, survey the damage, and get a couple of estimates, and that should hopefully guide you in the right direction

niceeeee

i want to buy something from you.... now!

you know what it is

thats the problem... take off the head/chain and remove all the rods/pistons and see if it still doesn't move.

i mean.... compression...

jeffwins24thats the problem... take off the head/chain and remove all the rods/pistons and see if it still doesn't move.

i mean.... compression...

Ok was feelin a bit lazy for a bit so I didn't do anything to my car and it just sat.. anyways the laziness is over.  

I started thinking maybe the gas was coming from my soft lines, so I went ahead and replaced them which was probably a good idea. They were definitely stock and definintely in bad bad shape.. anyways it didn't solve the problem.

At this point I'm thinking the only possibility is maybe the screws need to be replaced, if it isn't torqueing down enough then that would explain why gas is leaking around the new O-ring.  

So i'm wondering are these things steel or aluminum?  does it matter? I thought someone had said they were aluminum.  

After a couple months I've inspected the seal-all crap i put on it and its rock solid hard, it seems to work pretty good.

I contemplated using permatex but every product I looked up said gas "resistant"  but do not use where exposed to gas for long periods or submersed in gas.  The seal all specifically said use with gas..

I also had the turbo piping re-welded to get rid of the fronged end by the turbo outlet, i replaced the clamps, But I'm STILL getting a whistle when i hit high boost.. I have no idea where this could be coming from..   I mean maybe the IAV hose has a leak?  i'm just about spent on ideas on this one...

Lets see.. oh yeah I also attempted to replace the pins and bushings on the driver door, the door is sagging a bit, so often my interior lights will come on and drain my batttery..  well i bought a couple pins and bushing sets from napa, but ohh lo and behold the new bushings are freaking plastic!!!  

oh yeah good luck getting plastic bushings in there without breaking them, after going through 4 sets i ended up getting one in and re-using one of the metal bushings, but not before i dropped my damn door and put a HUGE dent in the top above the window, and also broke both my power window buttons.... ugh my car gets ghetto-er by the day.. LAME

best of all my door still sags, lol.  So after all this effort I'm basically back at square one on all 3 of these issues...  ugh ugh ugh!

On a more positive note I got the stomach flu followed by the swine flu!  lol.. yes thats my positive moment