Browse › Engines ›KA24E/DE swaps
So i used a lift today and the car now has an ACT Extreme clutch set in it. Good for 330ft lbs.
If I can get this full throttle lean issue figured out I will be taking this thing to the track on friday night. Looking for 13.50's.
Which diff do you have? I forgot what your S12 was originally...
Garrett76ztSo i used a lift today and the car now has an ACT Extreme clutch set in it. Good for 330ft lbs.
If I can get this full throttle lean issue figured out I will be taking this thing to the track on friday night. Looking for 13.50's.
well, i couldnt get my lean issue sorted out in time so I didnt get to run it. Pretty bummed but I'll figure it out. I'm gonna try searching for some loose grounds and then swap ecu's. We shall see.
cool yeah find that problem and let us know
Any updates?
Well we've had some pretty nasty weather up here until recently, anyhow I've got a buddy that is supposed to be sending me a tuned ECU soon. Hoping that will help. I have a spare ecu that I'm gonna go swap right now, not counting on it though. Also thinking maybe its a TPS issue? Lemme try the ECU. . .
No dice.
Have you tried the MAFS right off the throttle body? That would tell you if it's still a leak of some kind.
Maybe run a blow-through MAFS while you're at it?
I donno, basic engine ops should be ok with a tuned ECU or SAFC and those injectors. It shouldn't lean out, unless something is already fudging the MAFS.
I'd say get back to basics on ur diag with it.
Ask urself
Whats modded
Whats stock
Whats tuned
Leaks?
Wiring?
etc etc
basics of how the ECU runs it. Whats talking to the ECU and are they speakin the right language. think like a KA lol
Just a quick update. . . the XSPower manifold is crap. I've been driving the car virtually every day for the past 8-9 months and i've pulled the manifold off twice to repair cracks in the runners.
This last time runners 3 and 4 cracked all the way around. I welded it and added supports on each runner. We'll see how it holds up.
Also wired in the nissan consult plug since I didnt get it with the engine harness I swapped. Hopefully I can plug it in soon and get the problem I've been having diagnosed.
good shit. wheres all the pictures at?
Its too bad your having problems with your XS Power mani. I guess the earlier ones without the supports underneath the runners were even more prone to cracking. I would imagine you have the supports as you did your project fairly recently and I have had my XS Power mani for awhile (at least 2-3 years. been on the shelf awhile haha.) and it has the supports underneath. Here is a pic of mine:
If that is the same mani you have (with those supports under the runners) I guess that sucks for me cause that is what I was going to run as well. Quite a few people however reported putting a decent amount of miles on their XS Power manis with the stock runner supports after a year or two and they were still holding up ok yet some guys have had the same issues your having. Jay (another cs12 member if you don't know him) was saying in a related thread you can cut the manifold between the runners to help prevent cracking as well. Apparently that is what some other guys are doing to help the problem. But for basically 150 bucks versus 800-1000 bucks for a high end mani it is hard to beat the price even if it only holds up a year or two.
And yeah I would have to agree with Lonelys12 about the pics. It would be nice for reference to see how yours cracked.
i have a xs power manifold.. id like to make it stronger before i use it
Yep mine has those supports as well. This time around I picked up 4 stainless bolts, cut them to correct sizes and then welded them as support rods from the flange to the topside of each runner. So far so good.
Like I said before, if i was doing it again I'd get the cheap ebay cast manifold. Any gain in power with the cheap tubular is, imo, negligible unless one of you is shooting for 400+whp(wouldnt be using a t2 flanged turbo anyways). Another good tip with this manifold: cut out the bottom holes so they are just open slots. This manifold is a beast to get on the studs with the factory brake master cylinder in place. One better would be to leave studs in the bottom holes (mani would just slide down onto them) and replace top studs with bolts. That way it just drops straight down.
You can see in the second pic where I welded all the way around the runners. They cracked full 360.
forget where but someone said to cut the flange between the runners. So like each runner has its own flange not connected to the others. Hacksaw would do the trick. Honestly havent had any problems with mine.
IggyEGuanaforget where but someone said to cut the flange between the runners. So like each runner has its own flange not connected to the others.
Screwed around with the car last night. I've been running these wheels but the offset in the rear was killing me so I put on a pair of adaptors in the rear to bring em out flush.
Car is SO dirty!
6 pack tail lights on an mk2? Did you swap them over?
And thanks for posting the pics of your road warrior style xs power mani. I think I am gonna take Jay's advice and cut the plate between the runners before I install mine. I really like your s12 by the way. The rims match the car very nicely black on black.
The other problem with those type of manifold, is that the flange is usually steel, while the tubing is stainless. They expand and contract at different rates, which happens quite often, and causes it to crack.
Hey Garrett, do you by chance have a flex section on your exhaust? If it's solid all the way down, that's probably why it's cracking so much.
Redneck 6 pack tail lights on an mk2? Did you swap them over?
yeah i swapped over to mkI markers and tails, i really dislike the mkII stuff.
OK I have the car down in FL for 3 weeks. The manifold cracked again, this time a complete 360 around the #4 runner, right at the flange. Just took it off the car and ordered a ebay cast iron one. I think you can run them either top or bottom mount so I'm crossing my fingers. I really hate exhaust leaks so hopefully this will make it reliable.
Also I weighed the car the other day.I havent done anything to lighten the car other than eliminating the AC when I did the swap. 2665lbs with 1/4 tank.
full interior? what options? u deleted the ac as in removed the compressor but else did u remove? what about under dash hvac? where u weigh it? sorry bout questions.
IggyEGuanafull interior? what options? u deleted the ac as in removed the compressor but else did u remove? what about under dash hvac? where u weigh it? sorry bout questions.
This car has come so far haha
I recall riding in it when it was on 2.5 cylinders and bouncy as hell
Either way man, it looks nice, keep going with it.
next time your in the Illinois area, let me know, I want to see what its like with a turbo now.
Nice car. Were those pictures taken at Miami University??
seishukuHey Garrett, do you by chance have a flex section on your exhaust? If it's solid all the way down, that's probably why it's cracking so much.
Hey Garrett76zt, did the cast manifold clear the master cylinder and all?
BTW, how's the car comming along?
Back from the dead! Hows it going fellas?
So lets see, about 8 months ago or so I drove my s12 down to Alabama and back and in the meantime managed to kill my diff. Just a real loud wheezing/whining. So since my car is turbo I took the opportunity to throw in a taller rearend, a rarer 3.36 ratio r180 to be exact. This should really improve traction, MPG and lower e.t.'s in the 1/4. Anyways I swapped that in about 2 months ago.
However I recently managed to kill my rb26 t28 turbo I was using. I believe the shaft was seizing under boost, essentially a speed limiter. If I tried to go faster than about 55mph the car would shudder really bad. Also accompanied by some crazy howling noises under boost.
If you've followed my build at all you know how frustrated I've been with the cheapo xspower tubular manifold I was using. When I pulled the turbo off this last time it was cracked again. The only thing i didnt try with that manifold was run a flex section in my downpipe, which could have helped.
So in my continued effort for a high 12 sec/low 13 sec reliable daily driver i have decided to make some changes with the turbo setup. This time around I'm going with a cast iron manifold. I purchased one off ebay roughly a year ago that is I believe a copy of the Revhard manifold. While durable, it positions most turbo's with little to no clearance between the turbine housing and the brake master cylinder (s12 and 240's). However, just recently a new cast manifold has popped up on ebay for $90 that positions the turbo much better. This manifold looks like it will work just fine with my recent purchase, a Garrett 60 trim t3/t4 with .63 ar hotside. This turbo flows 50 lb/min which is more or less good for about 500whp.
I test fitted this setup on the car tonight and I'm pleased with the way it looks. Hood still closes with no issues. My goal is to keep the car on factory electronics, SAFC, the meth injection setup off my Z, and about 10-12 psi to yield 280-300whp. That should be more than enough for a 12 second pass at the track and still within the limits of the stock bottom end and transmission.
I know this update deserves some pictures and you'll get em tomorrow! Haha.
I was very close to throwing this car up for sale about a month ago but I'm just too attached to it and have yet to feel "accomplished" with the car. So, time to turn it up a notch!