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S13 KA24E sohc to Mk1 Ca20e Electrical/wiring Guide

Started by 200sxkitcar · Jan 24, 2009 · 10postsSMF 2010–26

200sxkitcarJan 24, 2009, 12:10 am · #1

This is meant to be printer-friendly, hence the size of the pics.

Please read thru all of it ....carefully and .....slowly   before exploding with questions, thank you  

I highly recommend that you print this out and look over it that way, so you can see the pics and read it all w/o scrolling all the time  


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edit: this is the same chart as the KA-DE, I do not yet have verification that the blue/black wire is the same on the KA-E as the KA-DE, which is for the temp gauge in the dash.

S12 CONNECTORS-----

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NOTE:
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^ In this picture, you can see the coil connections (the other one is in the background slightly, look for the connector) for which you can use as a power source for the large S13 BLACK/RED wire. This is like a 12 gauge wire on the S13, so this coil wire source on the S12 will be sufficient, as its also about 12 gauge and has the same circuit function on both cars (the S13 BLACK/RED is a direct feed from the ignition switch for the coil, just like this S12 BLACK/WHITE wire).

S13 CONNECTORS-----

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I'll edit these with my labels later...  The BROWN wire referenced in the chart above you are concerned with is located at the outside edge of the brown connector.

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 ^KA-DE pic, KA-E should be similar

brewster240Jan 24, 2009, 12:33 am · #2

same wiring as dohc....unless there is a difference in the s12.

200sxkitcarJan 24, 2009, 2:06 am · #3

no there isn't, but the difference in the KA connectors seem to be confusing people. I'm just editing some of the info, that is all.

  In this pic, you can see the GREEN/ORANGE wire that is the neutral safety switch wire.  Its on the seperate plugs tucked to the sides.

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Other photos, for reference.  Original CA20 harness is on the right/top side, Body harness is on the left/bottom side.

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You can see a hint of the GREEN/ORANGE neutral safety wire at the lower right corner of this pic.

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200sxkitcarJan 24, 2009, 2:20 am · #4

TO CONNECT UP YOUR FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT:  NOTE THIS INFORMATION IS NOT ON THE DIAGRAM ABOVE.

First off, I need to explain how the fuel pump circuit functions. It is critical you understand this before modifying the system.

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The fuel pump circuit is ground-side controlled. What this means is that power is supplied to the fuel pump, and either the computer-- or the fuel pump relay-- controls the ground, and therefore whether the pump runs or not.

So in the S12, when the key is turned to the ON position, 12V power is supplied through the fuse block back to the fuel pump through a BLACK/RED wire. On the ground side of the fuel pump, a black or white wire exists (depending on when your car was built, how stoned the guy was building the loom, the position of Neptune, who the fuck knows). This black wire or white wire runs through one of the connectors in the engine bay (PICTURE #1), back up to the computer, and then the computer grounds the wire as it sees fit, turning the pump on or off (or somewhere in between, actually).

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The other wire that you see, the one that's located in the middle of the connector, is the shielding wire. When current flows through a wire, it creates a magnetic field, which can disturb the flow of electricity in other wires that are near it. So Nissan took bare metal (in this case, aluminum) and ran a stranded cover overtop the rubber insulation of the fuel pump wires.

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When it gets to connectors, though, the metal covering has to split off, so they put it through an extra pin in the connector. This covering is normally grounded at one end, in the case of the S12, it is normally grounded through the CA20 EFI harness on the engine somewhere, which you just removed. So what I do is either splice in a wire to that black-with-red-dots wire in PICTURE #1 and connect the longer wire to ground, or just connect that original one directly to ground with a screw, its whatever you like.

end of lesson.

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SO…

For the fuel pump control, there are several options.

IF you are using the stock pump,

1. You can directly hard-wire the pump to ground which means that it will run all the time when the key is on. Normally the pump is controlled by the ECU, either directly or through a relay, and will only run for a few seconds before and after startup. If you hardwire the pump direct, you will bypass this function. Benefits are simpler wiring; drawbacks are potential hazard in an accident (normally if the engine would stop running, then so will the fuel pump). That decision is yours to make.

There are several ways to hardwire the pump directly, you can choose to ground it out either somewhere near the rear of the car- by the pump, by the connector- or you can ground it out in the engine bay where the EFI connectors are at. Again, this is preference. As long as you are modifying the wires up front, I'd rather do it there, as its less work and less chance of a spark near the rear of the car if things came undone.

If you decide to ground the wire at the connector in the engine bay, you will need to ground the wire that is located on the outside corner of the connector. I have run into different situations as to what color this wire is, IN this picture it is represented by the WHITE wire in PICTURE #1. You simply ground this wire to a good, clean, secure ground.

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If you decide to ground the wire in the rear of the car, you will need to look at the fuel pump connector. The wire you are after is located on the *OPPOSITE* end of the connector with the BLACK/RED wire. See picture.

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Sometimes this wire is black, sometimes its white. It should match whichever color the wire is up front in the engine compartment as shown in PICTURE #1. Ground this wire, and then the pump will run all the time when the key is on.
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2.  You can add in a relay control.  Since the computer we are using here is an S13, you can take a look at the lower diagram.  

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^The lower diagram is the system that needs to be set up.

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What can be done is this.  Take the WHITE -or- BLACK wire,(... depending on which you have, in PICTURE #1 on the outside corner of the connector...,) that is going to serve as the one of the Switched leads.  Connect the other switched side to a GROUND of your choice, however you want to do that.    

For the Control side of the circuit, tap the constant 12V BLACK/WHITE wire in the S12 Connector in Pic#1 and connect it to one of the control side leads.  Now take the other control side of your relay and connect it to the S13 BLACK/PINK wire.

JUST MAKE SURE that you do NOT send the solid 12V to the BLACK/PINK wire.  This will damage the ECU.  The BLACK/PINK wire MUST be connected to the control side of the relay ONLY.

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IF you are using an aftermarket fuel pump, like the high-flow Walbros, you're going to need to run a larger power supply wire than the factory one. Once that is done, you can connect in a relay in similar fashion, its just the setup of the wires that will be different.

You are adding the NEW RED wire.  It could be blue, green, pink, whatever.  I used RED for this example.

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What is necessary here is changing the arrangement of the wires at the fuel pump connector. You will need to cut the WHITE wire (or BLACK wire depending on your setup) from the connector, because that is going to be the relay control circuit, and you don't want a full 12 volts going thru back to the computer as I mentioned before. That WHITE (or BLACK) wire, the section that is left connected to the actual pump CAGE/SENDING UNIT, needs to be connected to ground now, wherever you decide is a good clean place to ground to. The other section of the white wire, which goes to the front of the car and is now not connected to anything, is going to get connected to the relay and serve as the control side of the relay.

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A closer shot,

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NOW for the BLACK/RED wire, you are going to be extending the Connector end of your cut wire to the relay, where the relay when activated will provide 12V to the fuel pump itself.  

THE OTHER END of the BLACK/RED wire, the chassis side of your cut, just needs to get capped off.  Do this well otherwise you'll be blowing fuses, etc, if it shorts to ground, because that circuit will still be sending power thru that wire. I don't think you can just pull the fuse, as that same BLACK/RED wire also sends power to the ECU. You could use to power something else back there I suppose, but the OEM pump only pulled 2amps down that circuit, so it better be pretty light if you do add anything.

NOW for the OTHER end of the chassis white wire, up front in the connector in PICTURE #1, you will connect this to the S13 BLACK/PINK wire.  Again, this is happening at the front of the car, in the engine bay.

markMay 25, 2010, 6:38 pm · #5

thanks guys the car fired  but for some reson it wont open the injectors we here them clicken but no delivery can spray fuel directly thru throutlebody and runs strong but still no injector help removed dist and can here the injectors fuction with no fuel switched fuel lines so the fuel reg is on the return side and still no fuel  " help this car is 350 miles from me and my son is very exited to drift it any ideas would help and be very much appreciated THANK YOU VERY MUCH MARK AND SONS

200sxkitcarMay 26, 2010, 1:25 am · #6

its a little difficult to read that, please try and write in full sentences man, it helps alot...

Do you have fuel coming out of the fuel line?

Can you hear the pump run?

How do you have the fuel pump wired?  Which method did you use?

Make sure the fuel feed and return lines are not mixed on the motor.  The line after the regulator is the return line.

It sounds like you are close, just gotta get fuel up there!

markMay 26, 2010, 2:28 pm · #7
200sxkitcarits a little difficult to read that, please try and write in full sentences man, it helps alot...

Do you have fuel coming out of the fuel line?

Can you hear the pump run?

How do you have the fuel pump wired?  Which method did you use?

Make sure the fuel feed and return lines are not mixed on the motor.  The line after the regulator is the return line.

It sounds like you are close, just gotta get fuel up there!
sorry my comp skills are poor. YES WE HAVE ALL OF THE ABOVE + 60 PSI FUEL PRESSURE as far as the FUELPUMP NOW IT IS WIRED WITH ITS OWN RELAY {BOASH TYPE}WITH ITS OWN POWER AND SIG THRU THE ING. We are going to re trace all wires and ck for the one we missed like the start sig {AKA THE ORANGE TO BLK/Y DONT THINK WE DID THIS couldnt find the orange one if im not misstaken} WIIL POST IN  A FEW HOURS TX.mark and sons
200sxkitcarMay 27, 2010, 1:30 am · #8

60 pounds?!? thats reeeaally high.  it should be around 40 max iirc?  check to make sure there isn't some sort of restriction in the return line.  If you take the return line off, and turn the key on, does fuel come out of it?

The orange wire connected will help start the car, but if you give it some throttle while cranking that will probably get it to fire.  I assumed you removed the spark plug to see if it was dry or wet with gas correct?

All the wires needed are shown in those pics, even if the connectors are gone you should still be able to find them.  Did you get the harness uncut with the motor?  Or did you buy the harness separate from the engine?

Is the engine grounded properly, and the one or two EFI harness grounds bolted on?

88s12turb0s0hCFeb 24, 2011, 1:45 pm · #9

okay i have a nissan200sx 88 ca20 im converting it to a ca18et  can i use the same engine harness????

Dr.SteelsApr 7, 2012, 10:58 pm · #10

I am having difficulty understanding what has been written above... Do I have to cut and splice any wire in my MKI to run a KA24DE, or is it plug and play with a few additions... Could somebody clarify what needs to be done?