[va] Wtb S13 Mota Mount

Started by xxstreetbikesxx · Mar 9, 2010 · 43postsSMF 2010–26

xxstreetbikesxxMar 9, 2010, 9:22 pm · #1

Does anybody have a front driveshaft for a ka24e trans? (manual)

I also need a wiring harness for a ka24e.

If you have one laying around, and your not going to use.. Since im jobless, ill pay for shipping, but cant afford high prices for the parts.

Thanks
-Dom

kyskaterMar 12, 2010, 5:34 pm · #2

i have a mint harness that i will sell for 30 plus shipping

xxstreetbikesxxMar 12, 2010, 10:05 pm · #3

kyskateri have a mint harness that i will sell for 30 plus shipping

and it will fit a 91 ka24e?

DraconisMar 12, 2010, 11:07 pm · #4

Sent Pm.

kyskaterMar 13, 2010, 2:01 am · #5

do you mean single cam or dual cam? it is off of a 90

also have body side plugs and stuff that will make you life a whole lot eaiser when making your jumper harness! ill throw them in for free...

xxstreetbikesxxMar 13, 2010, 3:13 pm · #6

kyskaterdo you mean single cam or dual cam? it is off of a 90

also have body side plugs and stuff that will make you life a whole lot eaiser when making your jumper harness! ill throw them in for free...

I need it for a single cam.
Sweet man, thanks.

its for a single cam right?

brewster240Mar 13, 2010, 4:53 pm · #7

91 is dohc.

xxstreetbikesxxMar 13, 2010, 5:05 pm · #8

brewster24091 is dohc.

oh.. so 90 will b sohc. cool.

kyskaterdo you mean single cam or dual cam? it is off of a 90

also have body side plugs and stuff that will make you life a whole lot eaiser when making your jumper harness! ill throw them in for free...

What payment do you accept man?

kyskaterMar 14, 2010, 6:38 pm · #9

pay-pal... thats all my dad will do i let him deal with the payment aspect of the deal

xxstreetbikesxxMar 14, 2010, 10:04 pm · #10

kyskaterpay-pal... thats all my dad will do i let him deal with the payment aspect of the deal

ok. how much would shipping be? Palm Coast, Florida, 32164

and can you pm me your paypal username?

do you by any chance, have a ka engine mount? all i need is one.

xxstreetbikesxxJun 19, 2010, 8:35 pm · #11

a driveshaft would be great

ArroJun 19, 2010, 9:09 pm · #12

Still haven't found one? Is your car manual or automatic?

xxstreetbikesxxJun 19, 2010, 10:31 pm · #13

ArroStill haven't found one? Is your car manual or automatic?

Its a manual..

Right now i have the ka engine, with the ca "b" transmission, with the stock driveshaft..
But i know since im boosting my ka, the first thing that will blow is my trans..

I have a ka trans, but i dont have the front part of the driveshaft.

ArroJun 20, 2010, 8:19 am · #14

finding the front section shouldn't be hard, frequent forums where they sell S13 partouts.

JayJun 20, 2010, 8:39 am · #15

Arrofinding the front section shouldn't be hard, frequent forums where they sell S13 partouts.

NICO

Find it in an hour

IggyEGuanaJul 30, 2010, 3:54 am · #16

still looking for SRA hatch or even notch.

NV, SoCal, AZ, UT! where ur SRA cars at?!

Phisherman09Jul 30, 2010, 4:07 am · #17

IggyEGuanastill looking for SRA hatch or even notch.

NV, SoCal, AZ, UT! where ur SRA cars at?!

did all 84 20e cars have a SRA? i know a guy who has a non running 84 hatch. i cant remember if it had a SRA or not. i played with the 20e for a little bit, but he never got it to run right so he gave up on it. its sitting in a field. im sellin him a alternator tommorow so ill have to ask him about it.

IggyEGuanaJul 30, 2010, 4:40 am · #18

ya in 84 only turbos had IRS. in 85 everything had IRS. no more SRA

LeegamerJul 30, 2010, 2:59 pm · #19

IggyEGuanaya in 84 only turbos had IRS. in 85 everything had IRS. no more SRA

There were some early 85 CA20 cars with SRA. I've seen at least 2 at junk yards with 85 build dates.

200sxkitcarJul 30, 2010, 8:29 pm · #20

Waylon, why not get an IRS car and just swap in a solid axle, out of, say, some ford product? plentiful in jyards/craigs/ford forums with plenty of options. thats what I'm planning. irs cars are easy to find. you need help with the fab work, im down.

hope you're doing ok man, that looks like one hell of a hit.

seishukuJul 30, 2010, 9:08 pm · #21

Yea, setting up a triangulated 4 link is hella easy.

DeezusAug 1, 2010, 2:41 am · #22

try to find a foxbody rear end, idk what the diffs are like but im assuming your just going to weld it? easy to find and im pretty sure they are the same 4lug pattern

IggyEGuanaAug 1, 2010, 8:10 am · #23

the plan, if it happened, would be the mustang 8.8 rear. and swap the front to 5 lug to match. thought about the 9" but that would be a lil overkill and those are in higher demand. the 8.8 still has limited slip in some models. or aftermarket ones. also thought about the 7.5 that came in 4 cyl mustangs but it is proven weak by the mustang crowd and i dont think the weight difference would be worth it. keep in mind i already proved that r180 axles cant stand up to a ~220whp drifting ca18det. i imagine the 7.5 axles would be similar size but still gotta look into it.

if i did a solid rear swap on a irs car i would want to do it "right". meaning hiem joints with adjustable ends and beefy tubing all around. carefully planned geometery etc etc. i saw pics of an aussie sra car that had been done up pretty nice with all new 4-links. thats kinda what i would do. problem is the cost. if i found a sra car in the junkyard i might steal that setup and jusy weld it in. but i'm not sure the h190 would take the abuse. or i could just mod the irs out properly so its fully adjustable and can be well aligned when slammed

dont really know what i'm gonna do right now. i think its cuz really i still wish i hadnt wrecked the car. lost some motivation from that and i just need to get the new car in front of me to get things rolling again. i really wanna go V8 and i could do it for less money than what all the ca18det stuff is worth but it would be hard to get that much for it. and another problem is at the end of august i wont have a garage to work in anymore. so the fab required for the v8 swap and/or the solid rear swap wont be doable after that. hell theres a lot i wont be able to do anymore. the timing on this really sucks

anyway thats whats up right now haha

JayAug 1, 2010, 8:14 am · #24

Iggy, The way I look at it with H190 is, If it blows up. time to upgrade. So, Throw it in an SRA, weld it up, and run her till she blows. then do the Ford 8.8. That's the route I'm going

Then again, my diff probably won't break until 400 hp with how solid that bitch is welded. Who knows how much it will really take though

IggyEGuanaAug 1, 2010, 8:34 am · #25

i'm tryin to step into the professional ring. having an axle snap during a Pro Am competition in 2011 could mean the difference between having a 2012 FD license and not. need reliability. thats another reason why a v8 swap is appealing and why v8s are gaining so much popularity in drifting. reliable power

and how much u welded the rear doesnt matter. its the axle that breaks. never blew up my r180 but i snapped two r180 axles. its def not down for clutch kicks

tjs91tsiAug 1, 2010, 6:11 pm · #26

IggyEGuanai'm tryin to step into the professional ring. having an axle snap during a Pro Am competition in 2011 could mean the difference between having a 2012 FD license and not. need reliability. thats another reason why a v8 swap is appealing and why v8s are gaining so much popularity in drifting. reliable power

and how much u welded the rear doesnt matter. its the axle that breaks. never blew up my r180 but i snapped two r180 axles. its def not down for clutch kicks

Before you start throwing in other make and model car pieces, take a look at the rule books first on whats allowed in a build and what isnt.

If you want to compete in FD or in certain sanctioned events, I thought I read somewhere that the suspension cant be mismatched but has to be either available in the model you are driving or just be manufacturer specific. IE nissan rear end in a nissan... I dont know how much of that is accurate or not. Hell are ls1 240s allowed? I would be sure before planning too far ahead.

As far as reliable power, I've seen some amazing things done with the Sr20. No lag, buttloads of torque and plenty of power on tap for not tooo much. My buddys dyno'd at 395 rwhp. If you take your time and dont half ass things, reliability shouldnt be too big of a dealwith the right engine. has your ca18 been unreliable?

JayAug 1, 2010, 6:15 pm · #27

IggyEGuanai'm tryin to step into the professional ring. having an axle snap during a Pro Am competition in 2011 could mean the difference between having a 2012 FD license and not. need reliability. thats another reason why a v8 swap is appealing and why v8s are gaining so much popularity in drifting. reliable power

and how much u welded the rear doesnt matter. its the axle that breaks. never blew up my r180 but i snapped two r180 axles. its def not down for clutch kicks

The aussies put down the numbers with the H190, There's a guy over there that's been running his for 4 years on 300rkw or something like that. So it's definately there. It leaves it to chance, yes. But yeah.

tjs91tsiBefore you start throwing in other make and model car pieces, take a look at the rule books first on whats allowed in a build and what isnt.

If you want to compete in FD or in certain sanctioned events, I thought I read somewhere that the suspension cant be mismatched but has to be either available in the model you are driving or just be manufacturer specific. IE nissan rear end in a nissan... I dont know how much of that is accurate or not. Hell are ls1 240s allowed? I would be sure before planning too far ahead.

As far as reliable power, I've seen some amazing things done with the Sr20. No lag, buttloads of torque and plenty of power on tap for not tooo much. My buddys dyno'd at 395 rwhp. If you take your time and dont half ass things, reliability shouldnt be too big of a dealwith the right engine. has your ca18 been unreliable?

ProAm 2010 rulebook

3.2 ENGINE & TRANSMISSION
3.2.1 Modifications
3.2.1.1 Engine, transmission, ECU and/or final drive modifications are free,
but only the rear wheels may propel the vehicle.

3.2.1.2 Engine and radiator catch tanks with a minimum capacity of one (1) quart each are required and securely fastened and sealed in the engine compartment.
3.2.1.3 All fluid systems must be free of leaks.
3.2.1.4 All cars must be equipped with an on-board starter and power supply
which must be in working order at all times
3.2.1.5 All vehicles must be equipped with a functioning reverse gear.
3.2.2 Traction Control
Traction control and other non-specified "driver aids" are not allowed. Wheel
speed sensors must be removed.
3.3 CHASSIS & SUSPENSION
3.3.1 Basic Chassis Design

The vehicle chassis, frame and / or uni-body must remain unmodified between the vertical planes created by the original forward most and rearward most suspension mounting points unless otherwise specified in these rules. Uni-body or chassis may be seam welded.
3.3.2 Suspension Design

The basic OEM suspension design type may be freely modified. The original suspension mounting "pick-up points" must remain in the stock, unmodified location.

3.3.3 Modifications of the stock, OEM firewall and transmission tunnel are allowed
as follows:
•
Dimension A: Tunnel Width May be no wider than 18 Inches
•
Dimension B: Minimum dimension of 10 inches between the bottom of the
windshield and the top of the transmission tunnel.
•
Dimension C: Modifications of the driveshaft tunnels behind the transmission
tunnel taper vertical plane should not exceed an overall width of 10 inches.
•
Dimension D: Modifications to driveshaft tunnels behind the transmission
tunnel taper vertical plane should not exceed an overall width of 10 inches.
•
Taper Length: (from the firewall to the end of the transmission tunnel into the
beginning of the driveshaft hump) may be no longer than 36 inches.
•
No part of the engine casing may cross the vertical plane of the original
firewall into the transmission tunnel.
•
No other modifications may be made to the vehicle chassis, frame, or uni-
body unless otherwise specified in these rules.
•

Any holes in the firewall must be of the minimum size for the passage of controls and wires, and must be completely sealed to prevent the passage of fluids or flames from the engine compartment to the cockpit.

3.3.4 Front cross member and/or front or rear sub-frame

Front and rear sub-frames and cross members must be stock and available on the exact model that is competing in Formula Drift. The subframe must also be mounted in the exact stock location, without being moved in any plane.

Front subframes may only be modified to directly allow for oil pan / starter clearance and steering rack relocation. The front subframe must retain intact on at least one major member on one face that spans the entire width of the subframe, thereby keeping the original dimensions of the subframe intact. Any other modifications, cutting, welding, strengthening, etc is not allowed.

Rear subframes may only be modified to allow for mounting or relocating a differential. The rear subframe must retain at least one major member that spans the entire width of the subframe, thereby keeping the original dimensions of the subframe intact. Any other modifications, cutting, welding, strengthening, etc is not allowed.
3.3.5 Modified or aftermarket suspension parts
Modified or aftermarket suspension parts, including hubs, are allowed.
3.3.6 Steering
Modifications of steering components (steering rack, tie rods, etc) are free.
This includes mounting the steering rack to the front subframe.

I'm not sure what a solid axle would require...

IggyEGuanaAug 2, 2010, 12:06 am · #28

thx for postin it up jay. shouldnt be a problem to swap in a solid axle. they allow for non manufacturer parts and they allow for swapped crossmember as long as its an s12 member. does the SRA s12 even have a rear crossmember? dont think it does. so a sra car would be lighter hey hey. interesting point to make is S12s with S13 rear suspension are a rules violation in FD. also interesting is they added 3.3.3 just for tanner foust lol. its ok cuz that car is built badass

VG30_S12Aug 2, 2010, 12:18 am · #29

damn dood, if your up for a trip, id offer my 85 notch for next to nothing, but its not really what youd want.IRS notch with all the options:(

gl man

David BAug 3, 2010, 8:17 pm · #30

broke my passenger one

JayAug 3, 2010, 8:57 pm · #31

David Bbroke my passenger one

I think, I may have just that one... I look fo u

kyskaterAug 6, 2010, 9:32 pm · #32

if you dont have it ill mail u both of mine for 20 plus shipping

David BAug 7, 2010, 5:35 am · #33

how about 10 for one. lol

kyskaterAug 7, 2010, 8:38 am · #34

hell take 10 for both plus shipping lol i dont have a use for them

David BAug 7, 2010, 4:36 pm · #35

deal. send me your paypal. 16 shipped? should fit in a 5 dollar flate rate? maybe

kyskaterAug 7, 2010, 7:48 pm · #36

alright ill double check that they will fit in it. and ill let u know

kyskaterAug 8, 2010, 4:25 am · #37

the 5buck box is not deep enough it is a 11 dollar box so ill do 20 shipped?

VG30_S12Aug 10, 2010, 3:09 am · #38

slightly on topic, so an auto fail DS wwont work at all? has anyone confirmed this?
i have one for him if he could use it

xxstreetbikesxxAug 10, 2010, 12:17 pm · #39

I think the splines are different, iirc..

shadowdriftAug 10, 2010, 11:26 pm · #40

I have a dohc front shalf, or the whole drive shalf depending your needs. Don't no if there's a difference between sohc or dohc transmission. They look the same.email me at [email removed]

xxstreetbikesxxAug 11, 2010, 12:17 pm · #41

shadowdriftI have a dohc front shalf, or the whole drive shalf depending your needs. Don't no if there's a difference between sohc or dohc transmission. They look the same.email me at [email removed]

Email sent!

IggyEGuanaAug 12, 2010, 11:19 am · #42

got it

close

sam31183Aug 12, 2010, 5:21 pm · #43

congrats...closing.