Mar 22, 2010, 7:30 am · #1
parts (5 lug)
hubs
rotor
brake bracket (see the difference below)
left 300zx right 200sx - its for the larger rotor
tools you'll need
floor jack and stands
breaker bar 1/2in
30mm socket
17mm socket & wrench
12mm socket & wrench
10mm line wrench
long flat head screw driver
impact if u have it(i have one but my air compressor isn't strong enough)
axle puller or hammer if ur ghetto like me lol
so there's two way two do it if u have the right tools(impact or no impact)
with a impact
1. jack the car up then place stands under car
2. remove wheels
3. remove brake caliper.
there's a brake line that has to be removed to do this and two 17mm bolts on the back side holding the caliper on. then on the bottom is a bracket for the e-brake cable it a 12mm and a 17mm. then it should come off
4. remove the shock from the bottom mount with a 17mm
5. remove 17mm bolt and nut. this will gain u access to the end of the cv axle, which has to be removed to get to the 30mm bolt
6. now remove the 6 12mm bolts. this is tricky cuz the hub is going to spin freely apply the e brake. this only works once, because when u get to the other side the rear brake will be removed, so u can put the tire back on and lower it until it touches the ground. you'll only be able to do two at a time cuz u need to jack it back up and rotate the axle to remove all six bolts
7. take ur inpact and hit the 30mm hub nut doing this it is best to have the wheel on and it on the ground.
8. with the tire removed use the puller to the hub or a hummer from the inside and beat the living crap out of it. its best to threaded the nut on a couple of times so you don't mess the threads up
no inpact lol aka more work
do steps 1 threw 5.
6. remove sway bar end 12mm
7. there's a inside brake (rubber to metal)line on the inside of the swing arm remove the rubber line from the metal or hard line. 10mm
8. remove spring
9. two bolt should be the last thing holding the swing arm on. remove the two 17mm.
10. now as u remove the swing arm, use the screw driver and pop the axle out
11. place the swing arm in the wheel with the lugs studs in the hole, then remove the 6 axles bolts
12. then take the swing arm some where they have a inpact
front 5 lug
tools
jack and jack stands
12,17, 19mm 22mm socket's and wrench's
pickle fork(tie-rod separator)
hammer
parts
z31 or s12 se parts* (the easy way to go)
z31 strut w/ hubs
z31 brakes (s12 brakes are to small)
z31 strut bottom bracket
1. remove the wheel
2. remove brake line
3. remove the two 17mm bolts at the bottom of the strut
4.remove the 3 17mm bolts at the top of the strut
5.you can loosen the sway bar(14mm) and tension rod 17mm or kick it hella hard until it comes off lol
6. with the strut removed, there should be a bracket on the lower control arm (lca) remove the tie rod from it with a pickle fork and hammer.( or if your at the yard and u aren't using the tie rod, beat the hell out of it lol)
7. now place the pickle fork between the ball joint and the bracket, pound it in there nice and good. with the pickle fork in place hit the top of the ball joint should come off easy.
now if your just do this for the 5 lug conv.
swapping over the s12 spring, strut insert and top mount.
tools
spring compressor
hammer and chisel
1. remove spring.
2. to get the insert out use the hammer and chisel, then pound on the nut at the top of the strut tube. sometimes you can just use the hammer.
3. switch everything over
coil-overs on stock s12 and z31 5 lug conv.(front only for now)
tools
grinder
welder
parts
coil-over springs qa1 $37.00 ea (summit) or what ever you choice
threaded sleeve
summit $50 each or buy a ebay coil over kit for a 240sx for $50
sw20 mr2 front strut insert $33 ebay ur better one if you choice
If you want, you can use
S13 upper pillow mount $89.00
you should start wit a bare strut tube.
1. grind the weld off the strut preach. hit it with a hammer until you see a hair line crack start. grind where is needed until u can get the preach off.
2. put in the insert to find out how much to cut off to shorten it. remember that u need the treaded part at the top. i eyeballed mine
3. put the inert back in to recheck. place the tube over the insert, spot weld it in place. DO NOT WELD THE WHOLE THING WITH THE INSERT IN THERE. take out the insert. then finish welding it
4.weld the treaded part on in the same way
5. you need to weld a 2in i.d something like a washer or short piece of tubing .5in long or shorter
6. slided the treaded sleeve over it with jam nut. place in the insert, screw in nut
7. with using the mr2 sw20 insert. you have to bore out the top mount center hole with a step up drill bit so the top shaft will fit.
8. there's a nut that holds the strut in place, you will have to grind it until it is round so the threaded sleeve can slide over it
9. Put it all together.
Should look like this
for z31 5 lug. The Step are the same as above but…..
the tube on the strut is 2.25 outside diameter (o.d) so you need the
s12 strut tube cut about 6 to 8 in's off the s12 tube, you need the threaded
part at the top. The I.D on the threaded sleeve is 2in
My ride height
s13 conv.
coil over kit
you can buy the cheaper ebay kit for a 240s($40.00-50.00)which comes with the coil springs, sleeve, or
go threw summit and buy the sleeve and jam nut(50.00 ea) and then buy a spring of your choice
s13 strut
sw20 strut (mr2 years 91 and up) $50.00
2in id washer
upper coil spring seat
s13 upper pillow mount $89.00
2.5in helper spring $22.00 each
if you don't go the ebay way
you can get the ground control kit $400
or
go to summit and get the threaded sleeve with jam nut 50.00
Qa1 coil spring
($37.00 and up each) you can get the length wanted. 6in to 12in. spring rate 100 to 600 lbs
tools:
welder
grinder with flip disc & cut off disc
a cut off saw if you have it
first take the s13 strut and remove the strut components. then grind the lower spring seat at the weld with the flap disc until you can see a hair line crack and do this all the way around. then stomp on the seat until it comes off and it will look like this
then you have to cut the threaded part of the strut tube off with a the grinder & cut off disc, for the best cut use a cut off saw.to extent the tube, then get a 2in OD piece of exhaust tubing from a parts store. cut it to length and weld it to the strut tube. then weld the threaded part you cut off earlier on the end of the strut tube like this
now you need to slide the 2in id washer onto the tube then the threaded sleeve & mark with a sharpie where the washer needs to be. tack it up, test fit and weld it.
there's a nut that holds the strut in place, you will have to grind it until it is round so the threaded sleeve can slide over it
paint it. install the springs and our done
Things that don't work
S13/s14 strut Assembly's, the spring is to big and WILL rub
Limiter straps don't work…………..but maybe for a race car
link's
helper spring
http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/cs100-2.5.htm
QA1 springs
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Ty...gs/?keyword=qa1