Before I begin, I feel I need to address a couple of things. I went this route because S13 Coilovers are expensive, and S13s rarely come up in the junkyard near me, so converting to s13 front end/s13 coilovers was something I was kind of unable to do. Also, I am writing this how to for others who might want to do this instead of converting to s13 for the same reason. There hasnt really been a good how to for this, so I had to dig through a couple of threads to find any info...and even then I still had to do a bit more work to get the fronts to work then I thought I had to do.
Ok, so, here is the components to the setup:
Canuck Lowering Springs for the S12
92 MR2 Front Shocks (Part Number: 765015)
96 Mustang FoxBody Shocks (Part Number: 743021)
Washers....read below for application
Tools Needed Besides a basic set of sockets:
Pipe Wrench
Table Vice
Possibly a saw
Someone on here said that older foxbody mustang shocks have been used in the past. These are the same year set that the ae86 guys run, and it works fine on the back of my car. The only issue we had was that we couldnt use the top rubber bushing that came with the shock. The ae86 guys also use the mr2 front shocks. The reason we have to use these though is because 1) kyb does not make AGX shocks for the S12 2) the gr2 shocks that kyb make have been known to blow out in 2 weeks or so with the canuck springs. (the springs are lower than stock so a shock with a shorter stroke is needed.)
Ok, so now that that is taken care of and I told you the only problem I had with the back already, that means I need to address the issues with the front shocks.
After you get the strut assembly off of the car you need to take the retainer at the top of the shock tube off...you will need to throw the assembly in a vice and take a pipe wrench to the retainer. From here you can pull the old shock out, but now you run into the first problem. If you put the mr2 shock into the shock tube it will be short about an inch and a half from the top of the strut tube. At this point we cut up some round steel scrap that my buddy had to make a spacer, but washers could be used here...so it would be a good idea to go buy like 20 bucks worth of washers before you tear your car apart...or find some metal to make spacers from that you can cut down. Basically you want the shock to stick up about 1/4 inch or so though when you are done above the strut tube. Now that you have done that you need to drill out the hole in the top hat. The mr2 shock top is bigger around than the stock s12 one. Your going to want to drill out the top hat hole out enough to fit down to the top of the shock so that the threads and the un threaded part stick out through the hole. From here you have two options again, either use a spacer/washer, or just use a bunch of washers to make up the space on the shock top that doesnt have any threads on it. Now all you have to do is bolt it back up. My brother was telling me that T3 used to make a shock tube spacer for the ae86 guys like we made for the s12...but he stopped making it and instead just sells a big crown nut...but i am not sure how that would work. Anyways, here are some before and after pics of my car so you can see the difference.
Tires are 195/60, Wheels are 15x7, I think the fronts are something like +35, and I am not sure what the back offset is...but they are slightly staggered. And no spacers, and no rubbing.
before with one coil cut in the front
After
Front drivers side wheel gap...car is kind of sitting on uneven ground...but you get the idea.
Rear Drivers Side 
Rear Camber

front drivers side diff angle
front passenger side
rear passenger side
Special Note:
S13 Caster Camber Plates will not work in the front without modifications to the top hats on the caster camber plates....and even then I am not sure if they will work or not yet...but it is on my project list.
Browse › Tech ›Brakes, suspension and wheels
How To: Frankenshock/spring Setup (kyb Agx/canuck Springs)
sexy notch. im running cut ssc's in the rear on z31 tokicos im sure u know that ssc's out the box dont lower the rear as much as we'd like it mainly because they are for hatch and notch. but with some trimming they look great as you've shown here. nice notch btw! notches ftw!
-cool writeup
Yah, I didnt trim the canuck springs at all...my brother was saying i could prolly get away cutting 1 coil off the springs on all 4 corners...thing is though when we where putting the front together he was like...this shock matches up with this spring perfectly...its the right height for the stroke. If I can get the caster camber plates to work then maybe I will take a coil off the fronts...so i can tuck the tires in some. We finished up the install last night at like 1 130 in the morning. I took it for a quick jaunt around the loop after I got off work and its handling well...I have the front shocks set at 2 out of 4 and the back shocks set to 4 out of 8 right now...so it will go stiffer still. I keep forgetting that the car is lower though until i get in or out of it and put one foot on the ground and my body in the car...i was used to 4x4 s12...
Thanks for the sticky, I hope the club can get a lot of use out of this! I would have taken pictures while we where working on this...but we where all covered in grease/dirt. I am working on figuring out a caster camber plate solution, so I will prolly be taking some pics of the modified top hats then.
Do you have faith that this setup would work well with 16's? I'm thinking this might be a good way to set up my new canucks.
i think if you run a lower profile then 60s it will do fine...prolly run a 50 series. BTW, I was on T3's website earlier yesterday and they still make the strut spacers for the ae86...only they wont work on the s12 because toyota threads are diffrent from toyotat to nissan....but with this spacer the 86 guys have the strut lower and the tube instead of higher in the tube...so i am kind of curious what it would do with the stroke of the shock....
http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=110
I need to email or call them because i have like a bunch of questions now!
wheel gap with 195/50/15s...i got new tires today....the gap is kind of a bit much...i wish i could lower now...but now everyone knows these are perfect for 195/60/15s....or maybe 50 series with 17s


sam, ive thought about doing the same thing with the washers for the front, but ive thought of putting them on top, so the shock sits lower, and preventing them being blown out faster. would that be bad for any reason?
not that i can think of...i mean, thats how t3 does it for the ae86...
okay cool, thats probably what i'm going to do because im going to run cheap sw20 replacements lol
nice to have a thread with definitive years!
that was the idea, to get it all clear and narrowed down...well, that, and to lower the notch/make it ride better.
the point of running the sw20 front struts is to shorten the tube, giving you more downward travel when the car is lowered.
T3 makes the spacers, I have a set. They have other stuff not on their website, or isn't listed for S12. S13 camber plates=s12, 280zx spacers=S12, etc. They even have adjustable 4link figured out for the solid axle cars, you just have to ask. Make sure when you get camber plates they include the correct adapter for SW20 struts as the strut's piston rod (the large shiny part that comes out, idk what the term is) on sw20s is larger than a S12/S13.
If you buy sw20 rear struts you won't need any spacers or washers whatsoever and the insert should just go right into the s12 tube.
yah, thats why i had to drill out my top hats...i still havent called him...been busy doing other stuff..
When you bought these from summit, did you put "2" in the quantity box? i don't wanna order double, or just a front and rear shock lol. thanks
I think so...its been almost a year. I am pretty sure 1 = 1 individual shock and 2 = 2 shocks.
A year huh? This setup still working for you?
yah, works awesome still. Going to autox the car again this year with this setup. Not that the car is competitive in its class because of the ka though....but, i did pick up some steelies with some slicks on them for this year...should make things a bit more even...I am going to be ditching the sunnys soon also for new tires....i have really outgrown them. The tires that is.
my setup w/ sw20 agx and 40mm shortend s12 tubes

this is how low i am now it can go lower but why? lol

even at this ride height i dont rub at all. fenders are rolled so... performs well in competitive driving at this ride height so imma leave it easy to daily and grips well
ahh this eightysix your notch is exceptional! its super steezy bro!
Post Merge: 09:43:34 PM / 04-Feb-11
Looove the enkie 92 mesh's btw :D
MMMM That is some sexy stance. I WANT RIKEN MESHIES,,, i'm gonna find some i've decided and im painting them gold :P
i am low enough right now that if i take the speedbump dead on at work i rub my tranny so i have been reluctant to go any lower cuz i hate rubbing the bottom of my car around town...
I feel u Sam I can't take speedbumps at all head on I can crab walk some but now very many. Driveways hate me especially mine
yah man...i get a lot of hate for not going lower...but...i dont see it being a good move at all...but for some reason i keep getting this urge to build a slammed nb miata....hah.
hahaha. I was read this in some write up awhile ago, never scarifies style for functionality. i believe thats the definition of a slammed car :P theres just somehting about it
I got this setup for my car today, put the rear on tonight the rest monday.. I love it. thanks for the thread! ill post up some pictures if you guys want me to
sure man, the more the merrier.
+2 post pictures!!!!!
Post Merge: 02:19:23 PM / 27-Feb-11
sam31183 on 01:48:11 PM / 05-Feb-11
yah man...i get a lot of hate for not going lower...but...i dont see it being a good move at all...but for some reason i keep getting this urge to build a slammed nb miata....hah.
slammed miatas are rad



favorite picture of my s12 :D


good work mang. Tire size?
Biggar tyrez
And by big I mean wider. With a little spacing you can fit some really meaty tires. When I got the 245's on the back and 215's up front car was unstoppable.
he is going to need new wheels first....how wide a wheel where you running 215s and 245s on?
16x7's gunmetal like shown.
245s fit on a 7 inch wide wheel?!?! I just got some 205s...but they are the star specs. :)
245/45 fits and was pretty sick.
There are way more tires out there for 16s :(
15's suck unless you have hella money to throw at slicks. That's why I went up a little bit.
My slick wheels though are 13 by 9 and a half. Hoshinos are my dailies.
Well that's because they are some nascar shit. If you are looking to go bigger than pizza cutter with a 15 you have to buy slicks.
Hoshi'z are sick.
You're gonna have a great time finding tires for a 13 lululul.
I can pick up used slicks for cheap like it ain't no thing. Finding someone who can mount the shit might be a different story. I got these with the slicks already mounted.
How used?
eric- nice man! i remember my ssc's they werent bad. i dont miss them however odd.
Like one or two lapping sessions...plenty of life for like 2 seasons of autox. The slicks on the steelies now I have been told were only heat cycled once....i want to track them so bad.
Thanks man, yeah wheels and a differential are coming next... time to sell the dirtbike :P haha god i hate being broke... my tire sizes are 195/65/15, although there is one 195/65/15.
once i get wheels a may cut a coil off each spring... idk yet ill have to see how the fitment looks. going to test fit a friends 17x9's to see how they fit... should look tits!
ericclopein on 10:31:58 PM / 03-Mar-11 going to test fit a friends 17x9's to see how they fit... should look tits!
want to see :)
I'm a little confused about which shocks are to be used in the rear. I have seen numerous posts which say to use "foxbody mustang" shocks, but at the beginning of this post you state that it is a 1996 and the part number you list is for 1994 and up mustangs. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KYB-743021/Application/?prefilter=1
I was always under the impression that the "foxbody" mustangs were only up until 1993: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang_%28third_generation%29
I used the ones in the first post. I am willing to bet the older ones work also...
Post Merge: [time]11:19:28 AM / 24-Apr-11 [/time]
Maxpow on 08:53:11 PM / 02-Mar-11Well that's because they are some nascar shit. If you are looking to go bigger than pizza cutter with a 15 you have to buy slicks.
Hoshi'z are sick.
You're gonna have a great time finding tires for a 13 lululul.
I thought I would let maxpow know that I just got 4 new slicks for 100 bucks for the steelies...I killed my 2 rear slicks at the last autox cuz my rear toe was all fucked...I only needed 2 new slicks...but my ex step dad picked me up 4. Whatever, I will have 2 spares. :D
Post Merge: [time]11:20:37 AM / 24-Apr-11 [/time]
ericclopein on 05:53:00 PM / 02-Mar-11
I was looking at these pics again...and I think my springs are in upside down from yours in the back...i wonder who is right, or if it matters?
Hello
I have just commanded of 96 Mustang FoxBody Shocks (Part Number: 743021)
I would buy in front soon !
Picture of my springs Canuck

At present I have 4 KYB Exel G
He(It) are too soft...
I hope that the AGX is better!
Sam-ummm yeah idk i thought it looked right to me, i dont think it really matters
Denree. the agx are plenty stiff haha more in the front then in the back though. you will have to drill out the top hat to get the threads for the agx to come through its a easy task. im going to weld up a bar from each tower and the two from that to the back seat
Hello
I received back shock absorbers AGX today!
Assembly:
Amortisseur arrière reçu:
Comparaison avec un amortisseur d'origine S12 avec le AGX de mustang

Pour que l'amortisseur passe dans la cloche, il faut limer un peu pour le réduire de diamétre, ou au choix, agrandir le trous de la cloche, mais perso, je n'aie pas voulu toucher a la caisse.

Et le voila monté:

Après un petit test sur route bosselé, il y a un mieux, mais il y a un déséquilibre avec l'avant. Donc pour mieux jugé, j'attends de recevoir les amortisseur avant AGX. Ensuite, je pourrais réglé la dureté des amortisseur.
Voici les ref:
Avant: KYB AGX de Toyota MR2 ref: 765015
Arrière: KYB AGX de Ford Mustang ref: 743021
Voici les amortisseurs avant de MR2 sur S12
L'amortisseur a le même diamètre que celui de S12, et il est 40mm plus court exactement. Donc je me suis découper un bout de tube inox de 40mm pour mettre au fond de la jambe de force.
Comme sa l'amortisseur arrive au même niveau que celui d'origine et peut être serrer avec la bague prévu pour.
Voici ma cale inox de 40mm
Et voila comment arrive l'amortisseur de MR2, exactement comme celui d'origine
Ensuite, il faut percer le trou de la butté de suspension car la tige de l'amortisseur de MR2 est de plus gros diamètre. Donc il faut percer a 15mm.
Et comme le filetage ne descend pas assez pas, j'ai mit trois rondelles bien épaisse pour compenser, et on peu enfin serrer l'écrou du dessus.
On peut apercevoir la vis de réglage 4 positions. Je suis sur le 2 actuellement et c'est déjà largement plus rigide !
Le seul truc con, c'est que quand on reperce de trous de la buté à 15mm, on supprime le "plat" qui empêche l'amortisseur de tourne quand on le serre. Mais ce n'ai pas grave, il suffit de le tenir a ma main quand on sert, et au moment ou l'écrou commence a serrer, l'amortisseur de tourne plus, et j'ai pu serrai ainsi bien a fond !
Voila l'amortisseur bien serré
