Which Fuel Pump???

I would like to know which pump a 88 CA20 powered coupe is supposed to use.
I'm going to cheap out, but there are 3 different AC Delco part numbers and I don't know which to use.  Thanks.

I'm a bit stumped with this.
I'll run this story by you guys and let me know a few things to try.

Last sunday I went to Yakima to pick up this 200sx with a black top CA20E
it looked like it was sitting for a while but it cranked over just fine, sounded good.
So I drove it to the nearest gas station about to make the run back to Redmond Oregonm, ( 200 miles away )

So At this point we thought it might be a clogged fuel filter, so we replaced that, then next I thought it might be the timing belt since the belt wasn't moving. So tonight I pulled off the timing belt cover and it is a brand new belt.

So next I pulled a spark plug noticed the valve cover was loose, and it was leaking oil all down the side, I notice one of the spark plugs thread was covered in oil but not the spark tip, spark plug was not even tight in the hole. Distributor cap is good, nothing wet inside. All spark cables are making contact.  

Tomorrow, I'm going to pull another plug or 2 to see if there is a plug covered in oil.
I'm going to test the 2 coils tomorrow as well, make sure they are getting spark.0

It's just not getting spark at all.  Wonder if there is anything else I can do as well while testing the spark plugs and coils?

Your post is confusing what I got out of it was your not getting spark if your not then your on the right track check the plugs plug wires coils and all there connections take the dizzy cap off and check the rotor just because the dizzy cap looks new doesn't mean the rotor is I've seen people change the cap but leave the rotor.

Also check the codes on the ecu. Your ecu is located under the driverside kick panel it'll tell how to check the codes on it. Sounds like you may have a liuttle project on your hands. Good luck getting it running right if you have any question feel free to pm me I'll help as much as I can also search around in the ca20 section there's alot of good info in there as well.

Happy wrenching

sideways_s12Your post is confusing what I got out of it was your not getting spark if your not then your on the right track check the plugs plug wires coils and all there connections take the dizzy cap off and check the rotor just because the dizzy cap looks new doesn't mean the rotor is I've seen people change the cap but leave the rotor.
Also check the codes on the ecu. Your ecu is located under the driverside kick panel it'll tell how to check the codes on it. Sounds like you may have a liuttle project on your hands. Good luck getting it running right if you have any question feel free to pm me I'll help as much as I can also search around in the ca20 section there's alot of good info in there as well.

Happy wrenching

Wonderingraventhnx man, if it starts getting to a point of costing 100+ to get it running again, I'll just chuck the block and get a KA24 started.

replace the plugs and helicoil the the plug hole that's stripped. check the connections on the dizzy

Wonderingravenwell, I think it's the dizzy the starter started up no problem using the good battery and jumper cables method, and it turned out to be solid.

What i did noticed is that all the spark plugs are caked in oil when I removed each one, and one 3 times the size as the others, like someone stripped a plug on the head and decided to put a bigger plug in.

trying to understand, is the timing belt turning when the motor is cranked over?  that is necessary.  distributor is driven off the cam.

200sxkitcartrying to understand, is the timing belt turning when the motor is cranked over?  that is necessary.  distributor is driven off the cam.

Wonderingravenwell, I think it's the dizzy the starter started up no problem using the good battery and jumper cables method, and it turned out to be solid.

What i did noticed is that all the spark plugs are caked in oil when I removed each one, and one 3 times the size as the others, like someone stripped a plug on the head and decided to put a bigger plug in.

JayIf I saw that I wouldn't bother with the CA any more

Swap Time!

And what isn't. the dizzy not being driven off the cam? Because it most definitely is.
Or is it the belt not turning with the motor. If that's not turning, you have a much larger problem

I did finally figured this out finally, it was a bad timing belt at the bottom, couldn't fully tell till I took off the bottom pully and removing that was easier then I expected.
now it's back to get this back up.

What I don't know is that, is these Ca20e's are these motors interference motors? the search goes on!

Yes it is

nice, well hopefully I didn't kill my valves.

Does anyone know where I can get the replacement bolts for this?




They are the bolts for the Timing Belt Tensioner.

Dealer.

If the motor is turning over real quick, the valves are probably done.  These are interference engines, I have one right now the belt was replaced and a new plastic tensioner was fitted, and the tensioner shattered belt loosened wiping out the valves.

may want to get underway with the KA swap.

between the tensioner bolts and belt you'd be in money better put towards a ka.  imo.

all s12s should use the same pump?  idk

actually, the inside areas are stripped to all hell for these bolts. the star torx are all destroyed inside.
threads are good tho.

it's turning over not really quick just acting like something is not igniting now, and the battery has nothing but dead cells, wont hold a charge at all. This car has sat for over a year.

I think I might have gotten really lucky with the vavles, I could always pull the valve cover off and see if the vavles are bent.
But I don't think I have the timing right either. I aligned the belt up with the Red lines, but the markings for TDC was not there. Not on the pully nor anywhere on the block.

hmm, check for anything on the pully, a hole, dimple, or paint marker (the usual suspects) and Im not sure about the ca, but if I remember right the vg actually had an arrow coming out from the block and pointing to the tdc mark on the pulley.

I'll double check tonight, but I don't remember anything the pulley actually had indents that cut my finger I forgot about that part.
after work I gots to get me a new battery.

make sure you line everything at TDC. If it still doesn't start it might be a compression issue caused by the lack of non-bent valves. Been there. 99% chance during a t-belt break that you will fuck 88% of your valves.