Sideways_s12's video selection of the day!

Got luck?
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJwHBgl-Zh4" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJwHBgl-Zh4</a>

*happens near end of vid*

holy shit that guy is lucky

Damn that sux lucky for him he moved lol but the owner of that truck is gonna be piiiiiiiist. I know I would.

yea for real that was a nice truck

the music at the end just makes it seem like they failed even harder lmao.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLRNPH5-KjY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLRNPH5-KjY</a>

This is why I stress the importance of "Get your line right and power through it"

or you can just drift in an empty lot

isnt thats tony's supra rite?

yeah it is

i got one for yall me and these girls was trippen on this one. nothin like crown royal to set the mood thats a differnt story tho
edit  NOT WORK SAFE!!!!! TURN VOLUME DOWN LOL
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bpq1oKOd9nE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bpq1oKOd9nE</a>

sideways_s12 on 10:45:46 PM / 13-Oct-10http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-underdogs-episode-1_2036041.htm
http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-underdogs-episode-2_2043203.htm
http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-underdogs-episode-3_2070031.htm

hahah thanks for checkin them out....and now an oldie but a goodie

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV6Pf9fcQ0k" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV6Pf9fcQ0k</a>

lol yes that's me in the background!

^ Nice

excuse me sir, but is that what you are talking about? lmao

What

Wow!

http://vimeo.com/15766438

i drove the notch through leavenworth right after i got it and bought windshield wipers from their bavarian themed napa.

IT'S MY TURN NI**A WATCH OUT!

http://www.worldstarhiphop.com/videos/video.php?v=wshhr3Ryos5fuAaGMWpr

I have the song from the stance of the union vid. Cant believe how easily he was riding that bike, I can barely do that s**t on my mountain bike. That camaro is a sexy beast hahahaha N****! lmao

I will get on beast mode!

s12sweden on 08:17:00 PM / 19-Nov-10http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5DtBsbSaYc , l love Toyota Supra sound   yes

Muay Thai fight was funny as hell and that Denny's scenario makes me feel bad for my best friends sister, She is a waitress at one

Yeah iono what it is about denny's and wanting to fight there me and a buddy had to break up a fight there once on new years no less it was like 2am lol

ok ive been looking at ebay and found a ca18det with everything uncut harness/turbo/trans/ect for about $1400  and the sr20det for about$1650 with abt everything except for inercooler.  What im looking out of the engine far as use is dd/street race  like to get 250whp i seen some specs on engines i dunno how correct but ca18det  about 169hp with t-25g turbo  the  sr20det red/black top (s13) 200-218hp with t-25g  also i know i can use my tranny w/ca18det belhousing but what abt the sr20dets?  im trying to fig everything out for spring  for when i do swap.I got alot of reading to do on here  wideeyed2 but worth it  yes

engines are usually sold with an attached tranny... if that is not the case for both pricing you post up, the ca18det would be my pick... hell it would be even if you were able to get both engine for the same price but that's just me Wink ... As far as power goes, the SR as more displacement and will get the better out of the CA, it is also lighter but is more expensive to buy...

For your power goals, both engine can reach it easily without a lot of money invested... the sr and ca uses the same transmission but, like you stated, the bellhousing is different, the stock transmission in any ca powered s12 will bolt to the ca18det but not on the sr20det, you will need the correct bellhousing for it, but the sr bellhousing will bolt to your current tranny no problem...

as for the engines, they are both really different beast, the CA uses cams directly over the bucket, the SR uses rocker between the cam and the lifters, the ca is belt driven, the sr chain, the ca is cast iron, the sr aluminium... and so on and on...

all in all, the CA has a lot of problem with engine management, but the running gear is pretty flawless, the SR is the opposite, they like to blow headgasket and damage heads if allowed to run a little too hot for not very long, if rev to hard they will spin a bearing and get the famous sr rod knock... and so on... if you like rebuild but are affraid of 80' electronic go with the SR (it will be easier to reach your power goal... real easier)... if you don't mind to troubleshoot electronics and find stupid gremelin related problem, go with the CA (but you'll need a little more push to reach 250 whp... I'll probably get a lot of disaproval for what I said, but it's MY OPINION

yea i was thinking the ca18det  as i heard sr20det cam isnt as true as suppose to be and i just want something strong /reliable/lasting,im not to conserned on making alot of hp just enough to beat up the local cars wich are riced civics/mitsu's/subaru's/  i would like to go a ka24de w/turbo swap but sadly none in nearby junkyards or around area,sucks! i found 2 but w/190k + miles and cost 2 much  this was the ca18det i was looking at on ebay   
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Ca18det-Ca18-s13-240sx-Engine-motor-Turbo-swap-silv-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb2fff692QQitemZ260701157010QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Personally I favor iron blocks and cam on bucket because they both tend to be more reliable when compared to aluminum blocks and rocker arms. Its not that sr20's can't be reliable, it is just they are more vulnerable to failure/damage when going outside of their normal parameters. If you overheat an aluminum block they seem to be much more likely to have issues afterward than a traditional iron block. Rocker arms occasionally popping off when over revved is also another problem you don't have to worry about with a cam on bucket design.

I would buy a lot of things on ebay, but I would only buy an engine as a core, with the firm intention of rebuilding it BEFORE putting it in a car... not that they cannot be good engines, but you have no way of knowing in what "real" condition your are buying it.  It is rather low in my books (although I haven't keep up with nissan's engine pricing for a lot of years now) so I guess you could buy it and buy a rebuild kit, change all the gasket, hone the cylinders, re-ring the pistons, change the valve guide, recheck all the bearing tolerance and change them if needed, and so on before putting it in... you'd end up paying a little more than that and spending a little more time than a direct drop requires, but it gives you 2 things... first, you have a fresh engine block than should last longer than it would as of now if you do everything with care while rebuilding it.... second, it gives you all the knowledge you will ever need about that particular engine... once you've taken everything apart and put it back together, you will know how to do it again if you need to...

On a side note, I totally agree with you about the cast iron block > alluminium and cam over bucket > rocker arms... but in the end, for I don't know what reason, there are a lot more high hp SR than there are CA... and those SR make a lot more power too... I just thought I'd give unbias advice, but in the end I'd rather have a CA too...  Wink

yea i like the thought of cast block way more but i dont have the $$ for a build and cant find a long block as the ka24de are going 4 $1300 + shipping +$400 core charge then buying a wiring whip/belhousing/gaskets/and all top parts. idk prob wait till early spring to see whats going on, Thanks for the input tho

a KA for 1300!?!?! That is WAY over priced. You can serisouly go find someone who sr swapped a 240 and buy their full ka swap for like 500.

And i noticed in another thread you said theres no where around you to drift. Idk what part of NY youre from but check out

ifuckindrift.com <-- Pretty sure its in the binghampton area

clubloose.com <-- Englishtown NJ. The place to be.

Or if your willing to drive to the pittsburgh area then i can give you some info on beave run events, i dont think there is a website dedicated to them

backwoodsbuilder on 01:39:43 PM / 06-Dec-10yea i like the thought of cast block way more but i dont have the $$ for a build and cant find a long block as the ka24de are going 4 $1300 + shipping +$400 core charge then buying a wiring whip/belhousing/gaskets/and all top parts. idk prob wait till early spring to see whats going on, Thanks for the input tho

The age old debate  laugh The SR20DET is right around 180rwhp. The CA18DET is around 165rwhp. The difference is the displacement and turbo size. The CA18 turbo is tiny and cannot support much power. I've owned both. I loved my CA18DET. However, there are no good ECU tuning shops for them. If you upgrade injectors to make big power, the ECU must be done. I wanted to keep up with my friends SR's. I used an S14 T28/25 and DSM 450cc injectors. On a good day, it was probably around 250whp. The problem: ECU tune. The JIM WOLF tune was horrible. WAY rich and made my car smoke like a diesel (The SAFC-II could not offset this amount). The Emanage tune seemed better (Defiantly for the money $400 vs. $200). Enthalpy doesn't do the CA18. I believe my cars' issue was all the vacuum lines and missing clips on the intake that plague the engine. The CA18 is old and most were not maintained very well. Long story short, w/o standalone, the CA18DET cannot compete RELIABLY with the SR20.

My friends SR20 had the following: FMIC, Exhaust, clipped T25 Turbo = Dynoed 287rwhp  wideeyed I poured A LOT of money into my CA18 in order to try and compete (spun bearing in 1st CA) I told myself "it's fast enough" like you say "just for a DD". IT'S NEVER FAST ENOUGH. We always want more. The CA18DET is capable of 250rwhp with factory injectors and a T28 (among other items) and that's putting the injectors close to their limit. If that's all you want, then leave it factory tuned! But I'm sad to say, there are high compression Honda's out there that will give you a run for your money.
The SR20 is "the easy way out". A lot more parts available and better tuning companies for support.

The CA18DET design is better, IMO. However, the short falls of the SR are easily overcome (Rocker Arm Stoppers $70.00). Only an idiot runs a factory radiator (Aluminum isn't expensive). It can also get the aluminum oil pan which helps the heat factor (and makes up for the less oil capacity).
The CA18DET is a great engine, but in my case, it literally paid to be different w/o much reward (other than seeing peoples eyes when the hood was popped yes Is that an RB?  glarestraight) For those one realized, it truly was unique in my S13.

i know it crazy going by store/ebay price's its way too much but i called all the near by yards the other day and not 1 has a 200sx or 240 at all   theres only 3 ka's i know of around me a 189k auto ka24e rough looking,a ka24de 180+k w trans burns some oil and a ka24de 90k just engine no ecu/tranny/exhaust manifold power steering pump or alternator and  they want $350-500.

far as drift events well im abt 15min from canada and vt border way north i think the have 1 in canada but idk

We indeed have a couple drift event... it has grown a little in the last years, but it not on par with what's going on in the south. 

Oh and why the heck are we talking about KAs now?? anyways, in MY book you should always rebuild a used engine before swapping it in, except if it's for DD apps or if you want to stay stock with it, but if you have any intension of tunning it, start with a fresh engine and build it from there...

so if you want to go KA, buy the oil burning DE with trans and rebuild it... if it's too far gone to be rebuildable, well at least you'll have everything else you need for the swap and you can always find a longblock somewher else for cheap (like the 90k DE that you posted up)... you can always talk the guy down on this engine since it's high milage and burns oil, you might get it for cheap....

...or you could also wait a little in the case something really cheap passes by...

...or make a trip to VA and go knock on David's door... he has all the KAs on the east coat piled up on his garage floor :p

tommy on 07:16:10 PM / 06-Dec-10We indeed have a couple drift event... it has grown a little in the last years, but it not on par with what's going on in the south. 

Oh and why the heck are we talking about KAs now?? anyways, in MY book you should always rebuild a used engine before swapping it in, except if it's for DD apps or if you want to stay stock with it, but if you have any intension of tunning it, start with a fresh engine and build it from there...

so if you want to go KA, buy the oil burning DE with trans and rebuild it... if it's too far gone to be rebuildable, well at least you'll have everything else you need for the swap and you can always find a longblock somewher else for cheap (like the 90k DE that you posted up)... you can always talk the guy down on this engine since it's high milage and burns oil, you might get it for cheap....

...or you could also wait a little in the case something really cheap passes by...

...or make a trip to VA and go knock on David's door... he has all the KAs on the east coat piled up on his garage floor :p

Two things for the OP of this thread...

First, don't post things like this in "Lounge" when there is a perfectly good section for it..

"ENGINE: Comparison Forum"
http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?board=65.0

AND...

Read this Wink

"S12 Engine Swap Guide"
http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=27031.0

ok sorry my bad

I say go with the ca yeah there's less of an aftermarket compared to the sr but imo its the better motor just look at iggy's build thread he boought the motor replaced the gaskets and beat the living hell out of the motor while drifting and drag racing and hasn't had any problems hell his car expired before the motor did. Also there is nuthin like the sound of a ca it pretty awesome.....lol and the 250 your looking for can be made pretty easy prob not as easy as an sr but still pretty easy......something to think about.....

Either way, I'd do some shopping. The link you posted does' not look like a good deal. The engine is quite dirty and sitting on the ground instead of pallet. Spare oil pans are difficult to come by for the CA18 (got mine from the Aussies'). Check out JDMEngine Depot (on Ebay). I used the SMIC for awhile, but it is very limiting and difficult to tell if it has a leak. The CA18 Turbo & MAF are both limited. The turbo cannot support 250whp. and that's pushing the MAF. A lot of guys also upgrade to a KA24E throttle body. You will have to run a SAFC in order to compensate for a Z32 MAF for lager #'s. Once more, if 250rwhp is all you want, its' possible. Anything more, requires a laptop and tuning know how.

yea i dont wanna get stuck with bad engine and i deff dont have the know how with laptop tuning and that im prob going to do a ka swap w/turbo and that i hope to have about 1500-2k to do a swap/ rebuild if i wanna get more hp

thanks guys