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The magnet gathers bits out of the water. Im just running the water in it to help it flush and clean the old goo out. Looks clean, but she sat for at least 5 yrs. Then drain and refill with distilled water, its cleaner, and add the Water Wetter. AntiFreeze isn't needed here at sea level, since it hits near freezing for an hour or 2 ever couple of years!
The anti-freeze also prevents corrosive decay, which you are actually accelerating with straight water. IIRC Water Wetter does not have any corrosion inhibitors.
Putting Distilled water into a rusted gummed-up coolant system is just a waste of time, the instant it hits the system it becomes plain ol' tap water again. Think about it... Just use straight water if that is your method of choice. Seriously though, just fill the system with 50/50 and run it for a week then drain and refill, your done.
I have heard of some people using carpet cleaning solution with anti-foaming mix to help break loose some of the crud, but again the anti-freeze already has detergents built in, so...
Good luck.
Oh right! That makes sense! Typically when I have done work on a cooling system in the past i've cleaned or replaced the radiators and flushed the engine, so then i just run distilled water and WaterWetter or the premixed bottle of Redline SuperCool, but in this case I can't afford it at this time!
The PO changed the coolant before I picked it up, so its had roughly 3k miles on fresh coolant with anti freeze. Thinking i'll drain it, change the thermostat, refill with distilled water and antifreeze (75/25) and Water Wetter. Maybe I should run some SuperFlush through it?!
I'm kind of curious as to what the water pump looks like. I've seen more than one that sat for years and the fins were eaten away!
Where on the gauge is normal? I know alot of vehicles the needle is in the middle, but not all. If that is the way these are then something else maybe up with it, like a missing thermostat, cause it can stay in the first section by the" C" all day long til the air temp hits somewhere like 85* or higher. But it did spend a few years in Mexico, so it may have been removed!
Low594 on 11:51:21 PM / 15-Jun-11
Where on the gauge is normal? I know alot of vehicles the needle is in the middle, but not all. If that is the way these are then something else maybe up with it, like a missing thermostat, cause it can stay in the first section by the" C" all day long til the air temp hits somewhere like 85* or higher. But it did spend a few years in Mexico, so it may have been removed!
Wolf Dilworth on 01:20:36 AM / 17-Jun-11Same as my thoughts!
I would not recommend running without a thermostat, that is old school redneck engineering at its worst. The thermostat has a very definite function and I would get in there and check for one. Since you are going to be halfway into a water pump job, might as well go all the way. As you have expressed, the pump could be garbage.
They are cheap insurance... A pump going tits-up will leave you stranded bigger than shit.
Wolf Dilworth on 01:20:36 AM / 17-Jun-11my fascination with it has been simply, its what I was taught and have had the best results with. But your questioning it got me to do a bit of online research. Every page I came across when looking up coolant sys& distilled, repeatedly said using Distilled water over osmosis, DI or tap water. Many even said tap was very bad, adding minerals into the sys. Even the Navy uses only distilled water according to one site! Here in the Bay Area, we have hard water, not to mention toxins from the computer & military industries over the years!
I still do not understand your fascination with distilled water, but oh well...
That is all fine but it is just gilding a Lilly, seriously. As long as you use anti-freeze there will be no problem, minerals stay suspended in the coolant. No matter what you do there will be minerals (remember the engine is made from minerals) in your system. Oxides are what you want to prevent and my anti-freeze is always green when I change it after two years of hard service, Texas heat and all... Never intended to change your mind and you can choose to believe what you want. I don't buy into the hype over coolant additives, if you have a sound system then "vapor barriers" have no ill effect, except on your wallet.
As for the Navy, that is a half truth. All the drinking water (potable) on board ships is distilled from sea water, shore facilities just use the crap from the tap.
Peace out.
Well, successfully removed and broke the 2nd Cpillar trim, so now they match! But I did repaint them and the sheetmetal underneath. Im going to glue them back in place sometime this week.
Well, I had some time today before the sun went down. So I replaced a few more vacuum lines now that I have the right size, still need a little more hose! I also drained the coolant sys and changed the thermostat, which was open slightly but crooked and seized. So in tomorrow mornings cold I should have a defroster and in the heat of the day it should do a bit better!
I also looked for the PCV and had no positive sighting! I think its in the front under the plenum but above the intake runners, is that right?! Do I have to remove the plenum to get to it? Are there any gaskets that will get damaged?
Well, its been a week so I thought I would throw an update out there!
-the PO had changed out the steering rack and it was doing well, till one day when it suddenly started making that aweful screech! Looked underneath and the pressure line had come loose! Then I found the reason, he bolted one clamp down and the other had the wrong bolts! And was loose! So I got it strapped down and then got bolts from my picknpull day last weekend!
- tried to get it thru smog again, no joy! Seems the vacuum solenoid isn't allowing vacuum thru, now just to figure out why! But the good news is the HC and CO readings have dropped to well below the limits!
- I made a custom dash mount for my Droid2 dock, using one of the switch blanks that a PO had drilled a hole in for a fog light switch
This weekend I plan to hit the other picknpull in the area in search misc pieces, Idle Air Adj, and truck or 260z shifter. Also, I will be cleaning and greasing the brake sys and replacing the rear brake pads, so I will have a parking brake! Maybe if I get bored I will paint the calipers and the wheels!
Thinking its time for some pics, i'll see if I can remember when its not dark out!
Yesterday, I changed out the trans& diff fluid for Redline 75w90, nice improvement in shift quality and firmness! I also painted the stock steel rims in the rear, now they are satin black with out the ugly hubcaps and trim rings. I might put the trim rings back tho, but gotta paint the fronts. Unfortunately, I had no luck getting the rear brake calipers working again!
I thought our transmissions used GL-4....?
Well, when I looked everything up, I picked 75w90 for the temp ranges that I see in this area. I hadn't come across the info between gl4 & gl5. Doing more looking around online, seems that Nissan dealers and racers use both, but GL4 may have better shift qualities. Redline specs GL4 for our trans and GL5 for our diffs. So looks like I will be changing it out again in the near future! Thanks!
GL4 had heavy metals and has been phased out GL5 is supposed to be GL4 compatible, some claim that GL5 will do harm to the Brass synchro rings. The debate rages on-line.
That's what I was seeing as well! Considering swapping the GL5 for GL4, sticking with the Redline. Redlines website actually lists our cars and specifies the different trans options, surprised the hell out of me! There they list using their GL4 in the 71B trans.
The only difference between the GL4 and GL5 was that the GL5 used anti-friction additive that will make the brass synchro slips and will lead to premature failure... use GL5 in your diff, but keep that shit out of your tranny, FS5W71C or B
The FSM for my 75-79 corolla clearly states to NOT use GL5 in the tranny for this reason... I don't know about the s12 one, but since they both use brass synchro, I don't think their is much of a debate to have on the subject...
Here's the emails I traded with Redline!
Me:
To: [email removed]
Subject: gear oil help
I own a 1985 Nissan 200sx 2.0NA w the FS5W71B trans.
I recently changed the trans and diff fluid to the 75w90 GL5. Then someone told me GL5 was bad for the trans, I looked at your application guide and it says to run GL4. Online there are many opinions, but which do I believe? I would rather change the fluid soon than the trans later. I drive it as a commuter, but also as a hobby hotrod.
Redline:
James,
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your 200SX transmission the MT-90 is recommended. The 75W90 well suited and recommended for the differential but contains a friction modifier so wouldnââ,¬â,,¢t be recommended for the transmission as it could be too slippery for the synchros. Some GL-5 gear oils can be corrosive to brass, bronze or copper components, though not the case with our gear oils.
How is the shiftability, does it shift alright? If so you could leave the 75W90 in the transmission.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil
Me:
Thank you for your help!
It does shift better, but that is comparing to the unknown brand/weight and age of the fluid. I just bought the car and it had sat for 8+ years! Thinking just to be safe and change it out to the MT-90.
I read an online article about modern Nissan trans being designed for Ester based fluids and that your fluids work well in them, because your fluids are still Ester based when others have changed over the years. Do you know if this is true for the older Nissans and what more can you tell me?
Thank you for your time and knowledge!
~>James
Redline:
James,
Glad to hear the transmission is shifting well.
There is a TSB out specifying an ester based engine oil in some specific late model Nissans, not transmissions.
Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil
** I have decided, since I am short on funds and this thing is demanding attention, I will keep the GL5 in it until I feel there is a problem. Right after these emails, my clutch slave went out. It's been changed along with the master, I couldn't find a source for the hose without the car being down for a day or 2, which I can't afford til next month! The lil bit of gear selecting trouble that I had went away with either the oil change and/or the hydraulic issues being resolved!
Hey, pull your E-brake cable and then climb under the rear and try to move the pivot that the cable pulls on to engage the brake. if you can move it with the brake on then you will need new cables if its tight then replace the calipers. Its an easy thing to check :)
Low594 on 12:07:02 AM / 17-Jul-11
Here's the emails I traded with Redline!
** I have decided, since I am short on funds and this thing is demanding attention, I will keep the GL5 in it until I feel there is a problem.
He is broke after buying useless distilled water... Will not listen to reason. LOL
Just had to poke ya... :o)
put 25$ of GL4 in there... your synchros cost more than that... and you'd be out of a transmission for a week if you attempt to change them...
Its been a while since an update! I added pics of what she looked like when I got her!
From here to here!
And from this to this!
These are along the first(and last) 30 miles of my daily commute along Mines Rd in Livermore, its a hard run that takes 35 minutes when I'm moving and 45 at a normal speedy pace. Provided the black cows aren't sleeping in the road in the middle of the night and the deer move fast enough!
I needed an alignment, so I went to these guys, who do some awesome builds in Oakland!
Recent changes that I have made:
-deleted wheel caps & trim rings
-painted steelys black
-painted chrome side window trim black
-swapped ugly stock steer wheel for S13 non-cruise wheel
-painted top 7" of windshield black to block sun
-replaced headlights with generic H6054 H4 projectors (I like having H4 bulbs but there is moisture inside :glarestraight:)
-replaced rusted headlight trim screws with SS fasteners
-replaced rusted headlight adjuster screws with S13 adjusters, longer ones on the bottom, so the trim and run lights dont have to be removed for adjustment!
-painted the radiator/elec fan/misc stuff under/behind the bumper back to black, aftermarket paint overspray covered!
-mounted Hella 500 Fogs, not happy with how low and exposed they are, so I will be redoing them
Other things done:
-changed oils
-changed rear brake pads
-alignment
-2 tires changed to 205/60-15 Falken ZE512
Soon:
-diagnose EGR malfunction
-Smog check
-Magnaflow or Dynomax muffler and maybe Cat?
-plugs, wires, cap/rotor
-improve intake flow (larger TB? &/or injectors, aircleaner)
-Hella Supertone horns
-2 more Falkens, thinking 215/55 or 225/50?, rears have plenty of room, just hating the sunken wheel look!
Or maybe since I'm moving into Oakland next week I should try to blend in?! S12s on 15s is soooo 1990's! Maybe head this direction?
Think I can tuck 20s??
I hate that look more than hella flush. Its so lame. Anyway man I like your daily drive, looks fun. I wouldn't be moving. Car looks good.
Oakland mayne land of the sideshow I had 22" on my cutty
Hehe! I can honestly say that I was sporting 21s back as early as '93, long before it was cool!
This is the start of my project. Im looking for a CLEAN notch back shell for future build. For now... Rusty 86 s12 hatchback w/ ca20e 5spd from Canada(km digital dash and block heater). It has rust in all the rite places like under doors and around wheel wells. Not on frame rails or strut towers or any of those places i see s13's cracked in half in the bone yard. I got it for $500 last week and i plan on dumping only money into the suspension and brakes. No motor mods, only future swap(ca18det).
Ill try to record all my weight and part numbers. I will also try my best for as many pictures as possible. Sometimes its hard with greasy hands and when your in the grove. But without pictures everything is much harder too understand. Ill try my best to not blow up the forum with question's that have been answered many times over and over again and use my searching skillz. All my pictures are going to be uploaded to my photobucket account. but if that fails ill use my google account.
Quick idea of what im going for: I enjoy doing burnouts and drifting. I need this car for work on weekends and all my tools in the back. I want weight reduction but keep most of my interior. Im always on a budget and have other things too blow my money on. My skills are limited to my tools and searching knowledge.
mods/fix's:
windshield wiper arm
brake lines
rear end and trans fluid was way overdue
removed CC and A/C
upgraded rear shocks(koni yellow's)
lowering springs(red with no name)
tune up(wires, cap, rotor, coils, plugs, air cleaner, o2 and other random shit)
Drive shaft and carrier bearing
rear brake caliper brackets bolts snapped
trans mount
carrier bearing mount bolt snapped(fucking rust)
Loose spark plugs????
Picture dump!!!!
thats my license plate number so you can find me and my guard dog and gun. j/k 
Most of my tools(I don't like to keep my tools behind the rear axles but i only work a few blocks away)
In chicago and from canada this rust isn't that bad. or is it?
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This section below is not for comments. Smiley
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I have a big garbage bag of insulation that is not that easy to lift. Two buckets of random steel. I removed as much shit as i can and put the plastic back in. Sure its louder. rocks and pebbles are loud on the under carriage. Its colder. Its not that much lighter. I no longer have rear speakers. But i still have my rear glove boxes and i can access my shock's way easyer for when i remove my koni internal 5 way shocks and adjust them and toss them back in. Ill keep the garbage bag and two buckets and weigh them for the guys that care. I still yet to cut random stuff out that is not needed like the car jack bracket, spare hold down bracket and other random things that i can toss in my weight reduction buckets.
As for now. This is how she sits. I hope you guys enjoy my high quality pictures. and nothing wrong with a picture dump. sorry if there is doubles.
other than the shit load of salt on it, it doesnt look that bad.
harbor frieght has a cheap 50lb sand blasters for $35. which would be great to knock the salt and rust off
The rust don't bother me. This car is going to be bathing in salt slush the hole winter anyway.
Update:
Fuel lines/tank froze on a cold day. Used that "heat" shit and worked perfect.
Replaced old weak fuel pump and found bad ground and corroded fuel pump harness. Fixed!
Found out 88 s12 coils don't fix 86 s12 because of the wireing harness
Cleaned up the coil and base and rewired the ground.
I have a short in my wireing somehow. My turn signal switch tweaks out and my running lights go out. My headlights won't go down anymore. When i first got this car i noticed no wireing problems or glitches. Now im having all kinds of random problems. I don't drive at night that much anyway. Ill fix that shit later on.
for the lights not going down cheeck the switch on the leftside of the steering wheel on the dash look a d with two sided arrow...otherwise check the motor as far as your lights flickering remove the light stalk and clean it that will end that issue....
salt leads to rust
is that a question or a statement lol?
statement haha
lol
Every car ive owned had rust. One of my first cars with floor boards and not a old stop sign cut up. I don't know what its like to work on a car or truck and NOT have bolts break off on me. I tend to pick around at the rust. keep moisture from hiding out and make it rust faster. thats about the only step i take tord saveing cars from rust. Smiley I think im more worried about tapping curbs or getting hit by a soccer mom on a cell phone in her mini van then the life of this car. Body work is the only work this thing will not see. One day ill find a notch back s12 shell out of state where rust isn't a issue. till then im having fun.
I like your thinking, sir. Wink
Fixed the wireing tweak. I always wondered what that headlight switch on left side does. I messed with it every way and got nothing. Till i removed half the dash and found a wireing harness unhooked and another halfway unhooked. Fixed all my problems.
Now im wondering if that switch on center console can shut this bitch up. Repeat/off switch for the "red queen". Don't work. maybee its also disconnected? only one way to find out.
My car was running shitty so i bumped the timing. I turned it up(clockwise) till it ran better. It accelerates alot better then before. Put some mid grade in and bumped timing up a little more. Smiley Now i really don't understand how you guys read these timeing marks on the crank pulley? Do you paint it so its visible? or just go by as close as you can by eye??? I guess i need to clean all that area up and use a metal marker to make the mark more visible.
Ive only timed carb cars with vacuum advanced on the side of distributor. Do i unhook this simple single wire harness on top of distributor for a accurate reading? so the dizzy or whatever don't advance on me? Im little confused and/or rusty on my automobile skills.
autozone has a online repair manual. so you can look up how to adj. the timing. also you can download the fsm (factory service manual)
hope this help's
Thanks, I have alldata. and i have the pdf of fsm. Just looking for tips from people that done this millions of times on the ca20e. i figured it out or know somewhat of what im doing. But its very hard too read compared to v8's ive timed. No big deal if it was id start a new post.
With higher octane fuel and timing bumped up, i get way better acceleration. I picked a buddy up at chicago union station with two big ass bags rollable bags, Two big bookbags and two people and this car pulls some weight like a champ. My car handles better with weight just like my nissan 720 pickup did Smiley. My rear koni shocks and canuck springs handle weight like its not even there. This car is a "runner".
I marked mine with a white epoxy marker. Shows up great. My ca20 has always run much better at 10-12 advanced vs the 4 degree spec.
They're easy to read, from left to right: -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, 20.
You've got a MK1.5 there (MK1 body with a MK2 drive train), so 15 BTDC is what it should be at.
My old CA20 took damn near 60* BTDC before it started knocking on 87 octane... Not that it made any power.
I figured it MAYBE made 130BHP with everything said and done, but a turd is a turd. It was kinda fun to drive, but mine had to go.
An update has been long overdue!
Smog was achieved with alot of headaches, but the results are really clean numbers.
-New hi-flow Cat
-New DynoMax hi-flow muffler
-new thermo vacuum switch
-corrected the mixed up vacuum lines
Considering a set of wheels, thinking these will look good. I wish I could find pics of these on an S12!
i had a set on mine when i my s12 when i bought it, but i didnt really like them. i powder coated them white and use them for a drift set
Do you have any pics with those wheels on it? I too prefer deep old school rims, but finding them hard to locate in 15". Also my budget is very limiting. I'd love to get a set of Watanabe or Panasports, I loved the way they looked on my 510, but the new knockoffs look bad!
Well, I'm from all over the bay. Born in Santa Cruz and lived there a few times, went to school in San Jose and currently live in Oakland.
turbo-s12 on 11:55:55 PM / 13-Apr-12Wow! Better than I expected! Now I'm just wondering if painting the 5 "D" shaped areas around the outside would help or look worse. Thoughts are to paint gold or black, but really the first step would be to get them on the car and do a clean up/ polish.
here i didnt think they looked to bad.
i think painting the D shaped part might make it worse but just my opinion...
I agree. I'll make use of photoshop before deciding
check out what they look like on a s12. they build custom wheels to suit what you need
http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=34393.80
http://diamondracingwheels.com/pro.html
The steels look nice, but I like the idea of factory wheels. Plus, read above, I'm on a tight budget. And it falls behind my bikes for importance and they need money too!
well supra celica wheels look good and can be found for cheap or old datsun wheels from the 240-280z's