Anyone think i can use FD Dual N1 oil coolers??

I might be getting some shit for CHEEP... Think i can use any of it?????
FD dual n1 oil coolers


FD n1 strut tower bar.. maybe i could just make my own strut attachments


Maybe a random lip to..... Doubt it

Guy has some Toyota Soarer parts to

Edit:

I fucking fail!
haha.
i seriously thought that said coilovers Tongue

Maybe i should sleep more...
but yeah why not? people use FC oil coolers all the time, i dont see FD coolers being any different. Might need some sort of sandwich plate, and then you might as well get relocate your filter and use a bigger one as well.

???? What coils??? Freakin confused

a cool is just a cooler, just get the appropriate lines and you should be good.

Who did you end up getting this stuff from? Down in Van?...

Was going to get it in Kelowna but i didnt have time to stop by.... Drove to Peach land from van, ate dropped off my car, Turned around and came back.

Prolowtone on 04:19:52 AM / 01-Oct-11Was going to get it in Kelowna but i didnt have time to stop by.... Drove to Peach land from van, ate dropped off my car, Turned around and came back.

Dono his name, Just know him from the local forum. http://www.revscene.net/forums/654426-fs-free-cleaning-my-garage-moving-so-i-want-gone.html

What's better to run for 200-250 hp. with a budget of 1k Smiley
Ka24det - $400 in my area,
Ka24et - $250 in my area,
Explain why.

Neither.
You can't put together a turbo kit, and do a good tune for less than 1k. Simply won't happen. A tune can easily eats up $400+ in costs alone.

^
This.

I chose option 3: increase your budget and do it right.

I can get the turbo parts cheap, i/c, turbo, FPR, bov, wastegate, sandwhich plate, braided lines, walbro 255. only thing ill need to buy non friend is manifold, head bolts and tune, which i can get a tune for $200 from adrenaline motorsports( friend of a friend)

By doing it right. He means you can get cheap intercooler and piping, a cheap manifold and exhaust. But don't get cheap oil lines and fittings. Don't skimp and make sure to get a sandwich plate with a thermostat for the cooler lines. A walbro is cheap enough. Wastegate isn't worth getting a cheap one. But BOV's you can get a synapse for cheap as hell.

But absolutely do not skimp out on tuning, at all. The achilles heel of the KA is the ring lands. One little instance of detonation, and bam. Game over

Prolowtone on 04:01:38 AM / 02-Oct-11Dono his name, Just know him from the local forum. http://www.revscene.net/forums/654426-fs-free-cleaning-my-garage-moving-so-i-want-gone.html

^
this again.

get good shit for the important stuff, as stated. you can buy cheap stuff but install it right, using silicone couplers and good screw bands, little things that end up making a big difference.

Jay's right on the tuning though, I know first hand. Seriously. I'm all about budget building, but there are things you CANNOT skimp on.

lol never said i was gonna skimp on tuning, ill get tunes then run a Apexi stand alone, if do-able.

You don't have to. It's the obligatory response because that's how important it is!

In which case, Either motor is fine. Just depends on what you really want. If you use a single slammer, Stanza KA ECU's are the best for stock ecu aftermarket tuning. You can just pick up an Ostrich 2.0 emulator, plug it in. Take it to your tune shop, and let them have their way with it. Wham bam thank you ma'am.

Or nistune... Good quality stuff there.

single cam, dual cam. theyre basically the same.
though the KA24E head flows less (duh, only 12 valves) so it can breathe so much in the top end, but makes up for it by having slightly more kick in the lower revs.
and most of the time and if your running low boost off a small turbo, you dont even need a BOV. Compressor surge sounds even cooler as well Evil
and it wouldnt hurt to open up the motor for some new gaskets and just freshning it up in general while its out.

what turbo do you plan on running?

i probably will be trying to run a t25 or a t3/t4, but i made a decision! I am just going to put a DE in it, get new wheels, lower it, and maybe a LSD if a deal comes.

If you still want to start piecing stuff together, I have some DE stuff I'll sell you on teh cheapz.
Like, a manifold and a top feed fuel rail.
150 shipped. Both of them. Never used.

*insert obligatory MegaSquirt and built it/tune it yourself comment here*

As somebody who has made a career out of introducing forced indution to engines not designed to operate in that configuration, you should be pleased with the results of either 12 or 24 valvle . . . as long as you take the time and $$$ to do it RIGHT.  IF . . . BIG IF! you have the skills to do all or a portion of it yourself to save time and $$$, do it yourself by all means.  If you don't, setting a budget for your project with only do one of two things.  1) drag it out to an impossible time frame, or 2) ensure failure (either during the build or on the road somewhere).

Boost can make up for many flaws in manifold/head design unless you are going for ultimate power.  Just do it right or you will hate yourself later and fill the internet full of useless knowledge based around self inflicted negative experiences.  Pay now or pay for it later . . . the choice is yours.

24 valve KA?
That thing must actually flow! Do want!

Wink

Sigh . . . it is late . . . long day . . . alchohol in system . . . too many projects on the mind.  Speaking of which I need to post a negative on the "What did you do to your S12 today" thread . . . damnit!

I have a brand new set of msd fuel injectors for a dual cam ka. I think they are 50 lbs. PM me if your interested

na, i got 2 months till i can buy more parts stuff, (unemployed-no unemployemnt) Sad Hopefully I can make some good money with side work in the next few days.

Unfortunately /understand

Is the anti-theft unit under the passenger seat something I have to keep for the car to run?

yeah its under the passenger seat. unplugging it wont affect anything.... it shouldnt lol. ive never unplugged it myself

24valve KA? Cheesy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrZYb1a6-qw

hahaha sorry i just had to.

Auto-lock feature will stop working and light on dash stays illuminated.  Yes, car will run fine.

I keep mine because I like the auto-lock feature.

I am still intrested in the oil coolers, Just never had time to stop in. Which reminds me, I should message him about that stuff today if i get time. Maybe he will ship it out if that stuff is still not spoken for

autolock feature? oh really? mine doesnt do any of this

I don't have autolock....

but I do have this neat feature that I like to call "Unnecessarily Random Panic Attack Mode" or URPAM.

No need to run 2 oil coolers on any piston engine car really.. Lol @ 13b oil capacity / burn rate.

But seriously, you would likely need new lines anyways, brand new oil coolers can be very very cheap ( less than $100 for a good one ). Might cost you more to make these work than you think.. But if the price is right and you've got the space go nuts!

-dan

Yep, they burn a bit of oil,  oil coolers sold anyways. Was thinking of using one and having the other as a spare.. Until the DET hits like 700+ RWHP Cheesy

VG33ERGazelle? on 03:34:11 PM / 05-Oct-11but I do have this neat feature that I like to call "Unnecessarily Random Panic Attack Mode" or URPAM.

The day I bought it(wobbler) I got it to go off, and the 2nd owner was like "I didn't know it had an alarm I don't own a key fob" so I turned it on, it shut up.

Among other crazy times the Secu- Rity system (URPAM) whatever it is called went off the worst was when I was at school. Sitting in Psych 101 hearing a distant horn go off over and over again I was like "damn what an idiot, who doesn't turn their shit off after 45+ minutes just go out there."

I walked out of class towards car kept getting louder... got around corner see car freaking out and panic, just bolt down there and hop in and dip the fuck out of there. I was so embarrassed. Always thought about the irony of me judging the person with the alarm and it being me for once. Damn S12 devils advocating me.

my URPAM goes off incessantly. So much so, in fact, that I rarely lock my car since I only go home and go to work where I can watch it. I need to take out the seat and unplug the fucker.

I removed the sensor for the hood, cuz it's warped and doesn't contact, but I'm pretty sure the one in the hatch it making it go off now, cuz the latch is all warped and retarded. yay body flex.