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wiring today kicked my ass. these systems are complicated and the mk1 and mk2 power distribution is very different. Easy to put a mk2 engine harness in a mk1 car but its a nightmare the other way around. mk2 has sooooo many relays! Gonna start from scratch and rethink it.
Well we learned that we cannot put an mk1 engine harness with an mk2 body with out modifications IE custom fuse box to cover 3 to 1 power switches. and also when I got the car, it had an mk1 dizzy that does not work with the mk2 body harness / engine harness as well. Luckly the dizzy at the yard was an 88 mk2 ca20 car, so I lucked out big time.
Here is the first video attempting to *wake up* the electronics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvezAXAjFcY&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Cleaned a few injector plugs, gave it a little voltage, then this happened.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6VjG3i5-B8&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Cleaned up the injector that wasn't firing and sent some voltage threw it and then this happened.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ahwF2x_vTo&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
It is running very rich but at this point I was able to drive it to my home which drove great regardless.
i think its running rich cause you dont have the valve cover hose hooked up to the intake pipe, the motor will pull in un maffed air and the o2 will read a lean mix and the computer will compensate with more fuel to clean up the next cycle.
Hooked up the valve cover and still runs like crap. CHanged out the fuel injectors and it slightly made a difference but still super rich with alot of smoke.
I am thinking at this point possible that the ca20e maf is just not good, or this coolant temp sensor is in the need of replacement.
Maybe the diaphram in the fpr is bad? Did you check.codes ?
can't change the FPR as it is build with the rail, unless you have anther rail I could try lol, also do you happen to also have a maf i could also try?
I also need to replace or clean the connectors.
I might have a rail but the only mafs I have are 18et/det
I picked up the maf from the red notch at the junk yard.
Let me know if that works...
It actually works, still smoking some but it seems to be tuneable now. Idle at 1100 but got it down to 950. Later I'll pull it out of the garage and replace the cat gasket and tune it.
Few updates, today I went a head and
Before the timing this is how she sits now
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJPWfAMo-Pw&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Adjusted the timing to the book specs and adjusted the air screw and boom no more smoke especially driving now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4VphfH61pQ&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Next is I just ordered 6 ev1 connectors to fix the wiring, then it is just windshield, and figure out the issue with the clutch and she is finally daily status.
Decided to replace the Clutch Slave today.
Out with the old...
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In with the new
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So I found this guy in between the master and slave and went WTF is this device?
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So I looked at it and said it needs a simple replacement as this is useless piece of junk.
So I picked up an 10mm 1.0 Flared Coupler it was the only flared coupler they had anyways and bypassed this piece of junk.
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Now the clutch is solid, how it should be and much easier to drive. Next is wiring in the ev1 connectors to replace the bad ones.
Good shit!
Well back to the major issue at hand, I can't drive it around with a wall of smoke behind me.
Latest updates is I upgraded the ev1 connectors and doing so there is no more loose connection between all 6 connectors, 1 on the aux air control valve, Cyl Head Temp Sensor, and the 4 injectors. I got some ev1 snap on so it will be easy to remove if necessary. Played with the fuel pressure and I get 29 - 30psi at idle and WOT it climbs to 37 but drops to around 20 - 25 not sure if that helps but it does idle back at 29-30psi.
Here is a video of it before I adjusted the timing currently 19 - 20 advanced
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJPWfAMo-Pw&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Here is the psi gauge for the fuel pressure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCHMmXNF3y0&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
This is after I adjusted the timing just at 4 as the book recommended.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAwmRl6UgRE&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
2/3 of the tank full with STP Fuel injector cleaner with 91 octane.
THis is just a random video I took of the engine shaking and with the new connectors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRZvYQWSPVg&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
the fuel pressure drop after revving is normal.
The next step in testing the fuel system is to monitor the injector duty cycle with an oscilloscope. there are bound to be youtube videos on how to do it and you could get an o-scope from radio shack or thru a friend who does electronics repair.
For some reason you are getting an incomplete burn of the fuel. I'm pretty sure we did a compression check and it was good but you may want to do it again if you dont recall we did it. I may be remembering wrong. You also should do a leak down test.
If compression comes out low across all cyls then check the mechanical timing. We/you might've done that already. I dont remember. If it was already done and/or is good then you may want to inspect the valve train for loose rockers or any other obvious signs that something is wrong and causing an incomplete opening of the valves. The rockers were all good and adjusted slightly loose when I had the valve cover off but that is by no means enough to cause a problem. Just a little noise.
Something is causing an incomplete burn. It may be that theres too much fuel or it could be low compression, bad timing, low valve lift, valve leakdown. All those things will indicate each other though. Symptoms and test results will be obvious.
If the o-scope test shows too much duty cycle than the ecu is calculating more load than it actually has. The fsm has test procedures for that. It will explain how load is calculated and how to test all the sensors involved. There might even be a troubleshooting tree for it
Post Merge
o-scope, I will give that a try. Timing is what seems to be a bigger impact more I change it the more / less it actually smokes more of the engine it seems to impact.
I remember you saying all the cyl are good with the compression as you have done it when you took it to firestone that one time. If I don't pass out after work I'll actually read up on the valve leakdown see if there is more engine troubleshooting to move forward with. I got my birthday tuesday, and I have 4 days off after tomorrow so this weekend will be a full of troubleshooting and testing getting to the bottom of it.
Cool. Happy birthday
Thanks man
I wonder would the cas cause issues like this?
Timing seems to help but now driving it, seems to be very sluggish =/
Cas could cause timing or misfire issues. It tells the ecu when the injectors should pulse but not for how long. If you can get one for cheap it's worth a shot just as a test.
Yeah, I was thinking that because of that same reason. Problem is I heard I can use the VG30's CAS in these electronic advanced dizzy's for the mk2's
and I cannot find the ca20 cas. But I know I can find the vg30's with no problem at all. I'll pull the dizzy tomorrow and inspect it before I do the leak down testing to eliminate the issue with that.
Post Merge
Turns out I need an air compressor to complete the leak down test.
SO I went with the dizzy troubleshooting first. I took it out and the disc inside is dirty with crust and when I undone the screws the cas fell apart, and the screw that holds the cas in place is stuck and undoing the screw I ended up destroying the screw. So I now I need to tap out the screw and replace it. So in this case I decided to just replace the whole unit. Sourced out someone selling one. Now the wait is back on.
Thanks to Sideways s12 I now have a working car now. With a little help on the timing part, she fires up on the first touch.
It started with a little bit of smoke but went away.
Here is a running video,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lervbz2K16k&feature=player_detailpage&list=UUe86heqhmGptBFRrIc2TMlg
Little bit of an update, replaced the valve stem seals and re-torque the head to help eliminate a weird oil leak between the head and the block.
and trying to eliminate massive oil leaking into the 4th cyl.
Did a cyl test on all 4 and as Iggy was saying, the test is good. Follow up with the same test and t's all good.
Did both a dry and wet test.
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This is the compression consistently on all 4 cyl.
And wet with 2TBS of oil in each cyl
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Suspecting the rings is not good, but she does drive good just having a cloud of white smoke behind me is just not what I am going after.
Well, as suspected the rings are toast, I am sourcing out a swap to the KA24de that I am getting from sideways. Rebuilding that would be better in the end if you think about it, the ka is a strong truck motor.
^ i always found that to be a funny statement, the ka came in the 240sx before the truck received it.
89-90 240sx - ka24e
91+ 240sx - ka24de
89 d21 - z24
90 d21 - ka24e
98 frontier - ka24de
:)
Indeed I normally say it as being sarcastically funny.
Well time to remove that ca20 it is more worth overhauling a ka24de in it's place. It was a great run, and it did ran good just the rings are toast.
Just got my ka24de, now it is time for the overhaul.
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That wiring harness though, I might want to source one with an ecu.
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I wonder if the pwr-2 would also be an upgrade for this? :-D
Post Merge
In the middle of the KA24DE rebuild and currently placed this on hold until I have my capitol replenished from buying 2 more S12's I am the only one in vegas so far with 4 s12s.
Maybe the only one in the US with 4?? (Except maybe Cutter)
Technically 5 unless you got rid of the one
no title == no count!
but yeah 5, but this time next year, will be 4 running and not sure if I will have it bared down and scrap it or save the shell.
certified s12 hoarder
Lol, I guess so. I would see as projects for next year.
After my sev6 got broken into and my stereo equipment stolen glove box destroyed, this is still going to be my daily replacement but I am going to look into getting my windows redone in a bullet proof replacement. Seems like Lexan as a transparent armor would be a good solution for both side windows and rear side windows. I am looking for reinforcement in replacement clips so they cannot be forced open and broke.
Also planned I am going to look into a replacement for the key doors, i might just do poppers and have the keyholes as an idiot thing. I really want to make this really hard for anyone to break in.
But so far this is just planning right now. I have some ideas.
Best bet would be rig 100,000 volts to the body to instantly fry anyone that touches it. I'm still working on that project. Otherwise they just beat the crap out of your car trying to get in.
I like that idea... :yes:
I just want something quick and simple. Bullet proof replacement glass, to prevent someone from shattering the glass to gain entry. I was thinking door poppers but if it is broadcasting a signal it can be hacked. I don't like car alarms as they can be annoying esecially if it goes off for other reasons. Perfect for home but not an unmonitored 10 floor garage where you won't hear the sounds accross or on a different floor. That or I just find another job.
Pressure washed the KA block, getting it ready for paint. Going black engine enamel. Found a perfect project name for this car, Project Serenity.
Here's a theme song for you:
Thanks sir! Firefly ftw.
Serenity is about to get a re-ring job on the ca20 for now since thanks to Waylon I have that whole kit already even a set of pistons, as I have decided to go full on rebuild and do it correctly from the start at the machine shop with all the parts with the KA24de, I want to ensure a perfect rebuild on this block.
I have started to disassemble the block working on pulling the head to start to see what is causing the oil leak in cylinder #4 also ordered new head bolts for 40 bucks, can't beat that price.
Out of curiosity where did you get bolts?
Nissan Part Zone
11056-V5501
BOLT CYL HEAD L 1
3.90
3.90
11056-V5500
BOLT - CYLINDER 9
3.90
35.10
Pulled out the piston rings and they where completely caked / soaked with oil inside, When removed I was able to hone down Cylinders and now ready to start with the install of the new pistons I have with rings and so on. The crank looks clean and ready to go.
Wonderingraven, this is slightly unrelated to your build but im just asking for a quick bit of advice. im in the process of rebuilding my ca18det and my bores are very nice but i just want to give it a quick finishing hone for the new rings to wear into. How did you check as to what size rings to order? as im not sure at all if mine are standard or not. Thanks and i like your build :)
Well, that is the funny part. I went along with what I have with a full rebuild kit I picked up from Iggy before he moved to the east coast, which includes piston heads and a full set of rings and so on.
Oh well thats good! keep updating us :)
I ran into a snag as the FSM doesn't say how to disassemble the connecting rod with the piston. So I am now in a stump as one shows putting them on with a torch heat the connecting rod till the end turns blue to install. But how about a torch to remove the current pin? There is no C rings holding it in.
Finally I broke down and bought a HF 12 Ton shop press, and I was able to get the pistons in place with the new head and rings, I attempted a few methods to remove the wrist pins and all has failed no mater how much pressure you apply and the ones on youtube shows the force from a spring compressor that has a bolt 1/2 inch too big for the ca pistons wrist pins. To put them back in I used a handy propane torch and did that method just fine and finished the ones that tend to cool off too soon in the press in which I would say is also extremely easy.
I had a slight problem getting the oil pan gasket on but I was ingenious enough to use tooth picks to hold them in place with gasket sealer as recomended in the book and removed each pick with a bolt and torque to spec and done.
Now off to the head.
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