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The story of my Silvia in my tiny little garage

Started by CzechSilvia · Aug 28, 2016 · 85postsSMF 2010–26

CzechSilviaJul 5, 2017, 5:49 am · #51

I took the distributor apart and all the parts seem to be in pretty good condition. Also, upon closer inspection of the distributor rotor and cap, I must rule out the ignition system as a suspect because the exhaust side and the intake side ignition systems are completely independent systems all the way from spark plugs to ignition coils. Now that I did the dual coil mod, I can't think of a way for both, the exhaust and the intake, sides to fail to deliver spark at the same time.

I also asked Silvia what's wrong and she said 23 and 31 so TPS and AirCon. I replaced the TPS with one that I dug out from my stash of old spare parts and tried to set it up but I still get the code 23. Well, the TPS throwing codes remains an issue but I doubt that the little piece of shit is so important that it would be capable of something major like stalling the engine when driving. As for the code 31, the instructions on the ECU say that it's ok to get the code for AirCon if the car doesn't have it (which it doesn't).

I took her out for a drive and now I'm pretty convinced that it's a fuel delivery issue. What I noticed is, that the fuel pump noise changes depending on what electrical stuff, like the fans etc., is turned on. (Mind that, there's more than enough juice at all times, I always measured more than 14V at the battery when the engine is running.) But the weirdest thing is, that the fuel pump noise gets weaker the more I press the throttle pedal while driving. Occasionally, when I go full throttle, the fuel pump stops completely, that kills the engine and the revs go down, sometimes, the engine comes back to life by itself and at other times, I have to lift the foot off the throttle for the fuel pump to start doing its thing again.

Is it a bad pump or can something else cut the fuel pump power supply like that? Also, how the hell can throttle position influence the behaviour of the fuel pump? And can the TPS issue be related to that? Well, the only thing certain is, that we're doing the today's trip by train...

iceagegJul 5, 2017, 11:00 am · #52

I don't know how the TPS can impact the function of the fuel pump directly.  However, our pathfinder had/has a similar TPS related issue that took some time to diagnose.

After 25 years the plastic connectors for everything under the hood are brittle and require great care when being plugged/unplugged.  The harness side connector to the TPS is one that has had part of the retaining clip break off.  The other half of the clip holds it in place and since the male and female parts of the connector still fit snugly so it has never been an issue.  Until one cold day . . . My wife drove to work and the truck started cutting out fairly violently.  She coasted it down the hill and nursed it into a gas station.  At low speeds it was fine but at any significant throttle position it would randomly alternate between idle power and correct power.  Her description of the problem was terribly inaccurate which is important because by the time we had towed it the few blocks home the problem had self resolved.  I did not get to experience it myself.

Fast forward one problem free year and it happened again on cold winter day, but this time I was home to experience it for myself.  Turns out when it is very cold outside the plastic shrinks just enough for the TPS connectors to wiggle part way loose.  Not having an extra harness handy I simply secured the male and female connectors with a couple zip ties temporarily and the issue disappeared instantly.

I am not sure if this will help in your situation, but for me the TPS was telling the computer to cut fuel back to idle flow even though the throttle was half/wide/partial open, then suddenly getting the correct reading and adjusting the fuel back to correct, then back to idle, then back to correct, then back to idle.  All without ever moving the throttle.  Simple enough to test with some zip ties.

CzechSilviaJul 5, 2017, 1:48 pm · #53

The TPS connector on my s12 is secured by a metal clip which I have in place and the connector itself also seems to be in good health, plus I don't think it's possible for the TPS or the ECU to shut off the fuel pump. The ECU doesn't control the pump on my car anymore, I have it bypassed. The ecu could possibly cut the fuel delivery at the injectors but that wouldn't explain the trouble with the fuel pump.

CzechSilviaJul 24, 2017, 12:51 pm · #54

I finally had some time to spend in the garage and troubleshoot the fuel system today. I removed the fuel pump which had collected some surface rust over the time and didn't look very healthy overall, I found out that it's not the original pump but it's probably from a comletely different car. I replaced it with what seems to be a Ford Mondeo fuel pump, I had this pump lying around and it happened to have the same style of connector as the one I took out of the tank so the change was easy. The Ford fuel pump is noticeably quieter than the old one.

I did a short test drive and experienced only a short hesitation just before I pulled over to a petrol station but I really, really hope that was just the car running out of fuel. The rest of the drive went without any problems. It seems that the hesitation is gone but I don't want to jump to any conclusions, the problem was hard to replicate even before the fuel pump change and now, when the pump is quieter, I can't monitor the fuel pump noise while driving.

weitrhinoJul 25, 2017, 3:15 pm · #55

I'm sure it will run perfectly until the first time you go out of town.  :evillaugh:

CzechSilviaDec 14, 2017, 8:09 am · #56

Haven't updated the thread in a while because, sadly, there wasn't anything worthwile to talk about. The problems with fuel delivery I was having seem to be fixed by that random Ford fuel pump and that's about it, nothing new happened...

However, I have not forgotten my s12, actually, I've been saving money for the s13 front conversion and BC coilovers. I already have most of the stuff I need for that home but I don't think I'll be putting it on the car before the spring comes. Anyway, while sourcing the s13 parts for the conversion, I also bought an old t25 turbo from ca18det so my long-term plans now also include getting the t25 rebuilt and slapping it on the car along with an intercooler and custom exhaust. But before that I'm also planning to address the shabby exterior of the car and to install a new fuel pump with an aftermarket fpr because I'm obviously not happy with the current setup.

CzechSilviaMar 3, 2018, 9:35 am · #57

I finally have an update with some pictures for you guys. I have installed the BC racing BR series coilovers. As for the spring rates I got 6kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear (335lbs/inch front and 280lbs/inch rear) which was the softest option, the other available spring rates were 8kg front, 6kg rear and 10kg front 8kg rear which seemed way too stiff for anything other than circuit racing.

I did the standard s13 front conversion with s13 knuckles, hubs and brakes, I used S12 LCA with Moog K9509 Ball Joint and S13 inner tie rod with Moog ES3048RL Tie Rod End. The S13 brakes I have now on the car are actually worse than the stock S12 ones I originally had on the car, the rotor is smaller and the piston is also slightly smaller (273mm vs 257mm rotors and 60mm vs 57mm calliper piston). I'll try these brakes and if I ever feel the need to get bigger brakes, I can always get something better now that I have the S13 knuckles and hubs. I also used Hel Performance S13 braided brake lines in the front, I already got them installed in the rear. I also had to bend that bracket on coilover for holding the brake line for it to be usable on the S12.

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When I was uninstalling front swaybar the oem swaybar link snapped in two so I thought it's time for an upgrade. I wanted something with polyurethane bushings so I tried buying the Moog K700526 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit and it turns out that its a direct bolt on!

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This is how the suspension looks in the rear now. Note that I took the pictures before I set up the ride height and spring preload.

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The install of the new rear struts and springs was pretty straight forward. I went straight for removing the back interior, I didn't even bother trying to undo the top strut nuts through the speaker holes.

I decided to reuse the stock rubber insulator that sits on top of the spring between the coil and the chassis as it is softer than the supplied replacement but for that I had to modify it a little bit. The BC racing springs are flat on top and bottom but the stock springs are not, they are simple coils so I had to cut some bits off the insulators to fit the flat end of the springs.

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This is how the adjustment knob of the rear strut looks on the inside of the car, it obviously won't be accesible when I put the interior pieces back. I'll probably address this shortcoming of the design in the future.

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Now I just have to set up the suspension and take the car for an alignment. While I was with the camera in the garage I took some pictures of the engine bay.

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JonBMar 3, 2018, 1:23 pm · #58

Lookin good

CzechSilviaMar 5, 2018, 7:21 am · #59

I've been fiddling with the suspension setup some more and ended up using the supplied BC Racing insulators on top of the rear springs instead of the stock ones. The rear seems to sit too high with the stock ones.

nddMar 8, 2018, 2:40 pm · #60

Keep us updated you do have people reading your story!  Keep up the good work.  Long live the S12!!

kelso840Mar 9, 2018, 8:21 am · #61

I'm definitely interested in your progress as well. You're one of the last active build threads we get to enjoy here!

Also, A+ for trying things like Moog K700526 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit and verifying compatibility. I'll add that to a list of potential upgrades.

Have you looked into remote adjustment cables like these so you don't have to tear the rear apart? Wish I had something like that for my Tokicos.
https://bcracingcoilovers.com/products/bc-racing-coilovers-rear-dampening-adjustment-extenders-br-type

CzechSilviaMar 9, 2018, 2:37 pm · #62

thanks guys, yeah, I plan to try these extenders but I'll still have to drill a hole next to the speaker for that extender to go through.  Well, I better get used to butchering interior panels because I also plan to have an a-pillar gauge pod and I don't think I'll be able to have that without drilling in the a-pillar trim piece

CzechSilviaApr 9, 2018, 8:17 am · #63

Look what I just got, this will be a lot of fun! I even have a spare block, head and intake manifold.

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That's how I got it home. Wife's Mazda is surprisingly roomy.

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rednucleusApr 9, 2018, 11:00 am · #64

lol your tiny garage is filling up fast!

CzechSilviaMay 13, 2018, 11:35 am · #65

Ever since I bought the car, I've been having problems with the fuel system so I've decided to replace/upgrade the major components, make it bulletproof and thus prepare it for the engine swap.

I have dropped the fuel tank and I'll have the inside derusted, coated with something to prevent future rust and when that's done I'll put a Deatschwerks fuel pump in there. The engine bay side of the fuel system is done, I have cut off the stock fpr, installed one from Nismo and a Tomei fuel pressure gauge.

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RedneckMay 16, 2018, 9:05 pm · #66

Wow great progress on your build so far. Keep it up! I'd like to upgrade to the BC coils as well down the road one day. Being the s12 is just my daily driver though I hate to give up the cushy stock suspension. Or maybe I'm just getting old and turning into a wimp lol.

Love the ca18det upgrade. Obviously its not nearly as common as the sr20 swap but is a timeless classic nonetheless. Really underrated power plant if your not looking for crazy horsepower numbers. Only major drawback it seems to have is aftermarket support being a lot more limited compared to the sr20 but that is to be expected and not a deal breaker by any means.

CzechSilviaMay 18, 2018, 2:58 pm · #67
Redneck on 09:05:43 PM / 16-May-18Wow great progress on your build so far. Keep it up! I'd like to upgrade to the BC coils as well down the road one day. Being the s12 is just my daily driver though I hate to give up the cushy stock suspension. Or maybe I'm just getting old and turning into a wimp lol.

Love the ca18det upgrade. Obviously its not nearly as common as the sr20 swap but is a timeless classic nonetheless. Really underrated power plant if your not looking for crazy horsepower numbers. Only major drawback it seems to have is aftermarket support being a lot more limited compared to the sr20 but that is to be expected and not a deal breaker by any means.

Thanks, there's more to come! The stock soft and tired suspension was what was bothering me the most when I was driving it, now I'm finally happy with how the suspension feels. The swap is a longer-term project, rebuilding the CA18DET and the modifications I'm planning to do to it will be expensive and there's nothing wrong with the engine that's in the car now so I can drive the car as is until I save up the money I need.

I didn't even consider the SR although I know a guy who has one in his s12. In my opinion the 16valve CA is at home in the s12, it's the engine the car was supposed to have from the factory, that and the turbo FJ. Funny thing is I wasn't originally planning on swapping the engine because of how expensive it is and it's also generally very sketchy legally because they check the engine with what's in your papers at tech inspection but I saw the ca18det for sale for cheap and just couldn't resist. I think I'll be fine as far as law or tech inspection is concerned, my papers state that the car has an "CA18" engine which will still be technically true after the swap.
CzechSilviaJun 14, 2018, 3:29 pm · #68

I had a whole day free so I spent most of it in the garage and made some progress. This is what my fuel pump setup will be when I finally have the refurbished fuel tank back in the car. I have three or four old s12 sending units lying on a shelf but I bought a brand new sending unit assembly for 35 USD, that made more sense than trying to repair one of the old rusty ones. It's a bit different than the old units I have, the connectors were different so I switched them with one from the spare ones and the float was a bit higher so I bent the wire that holds it so it measures the same as the old unit. The pump is Deatschwerks DW100.

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Another thing I got done today was fitting the extenders for the coilover adjustment knobs. I had to butcher the rear speaker brackets for them to fit and obviously drill holes in the interior panels but it turned out ok, I'm very happy with the result.

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babybrother3294Jun 29, 2018, 6:20 pm · #69

I also want to put a ca18det in my car in the future. its the "pure" option imo. at least in the US where we didnt get the fj. i like what youre doing with the car. so satisfying to watch it progress and get cleaann.

CzechSilviaJul 28, 2018, 1:23 pm · #70

Got the fuel tank sandblasted inside out, painted and the inside coated with epoxy to prevent future rust.

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CzechSilviaSep 16, 2018, 7:03 am · #71

The plan for today was to get the differential off the car, disassemble it and properly measure it to make sure that the Quaife ATB, I plan to buy, will fit because I'm not completely sure what differential I have. Well, that was the plan but after getting to the garage and jacking up the car, the hungover me couldn't muster any more strength to undo a single bolt. As I was laying under the car staring at the drivetrain I devised a different plan, I'll ask you guys, trust you and my luck, and then I'll buy the Quaife without comparing the old diff with the Quaife spec sheet. Well then guys, is that an R200 differential?

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Sadly, I didn't do much work on the car, apart from fitting this sick Gatorade sweatband on the brake fluid reservoir but I did do quite a lot of driving and I must say the car handles incredible, the suspension work I did on it really paid off and the engine runs sweet and strong as well!

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However, I didn't just goof around, I've been negotiating deals on some really cool parts for the old s12, there's a lot more to come!

CzechSilviaSep 18, 2018, 11:24 pm · #72

I asked around and now I'm pretty sure it's r200 which is good news

weitrhinoSep 19, 2018, 6:39 pm · #73

I saw your Facebook posts and had always believed only the R200 had cooling fins.

CzechSilviaOct 6, 2018, 3:31 am · #74

After saving up for a couple of months, I got the Quaife QDF7L and it fits the stock r200 carrier and stock s12 halshafts. Now the LSD is installed in its new home and is ready to go on the car but unfortunately it won't be until the end of the next week until I have time to actually fit on the car and try it out.
I also replaced all the seals in the diff but kept the old bearings, there was nothing wrong with them.

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Taking off the diff carrier from the subframe was harder than I expected, but it always is... Someone on the forum mentioned that you have enough space to pop the halfshafts  from the diff without unbolting them from the hubs if you remove the rear springs and disconnect the shocks. That's impossible, you have to completely remove at least one halfshaft but that's ok, I needed to rebuild that halfshaft anyway as it has started to leak

The install of the LSD to the carrier is something I thought I could do by myself but I quickly gave up and had a friend with a proper workshop do it, because to fit the diff properly you have to adjust the diff position in the carrier using shims. New shims needed to be made on a lathe to fit the LSD properly. That's probably because the manufacturing tolerances of the oem diff were much bigger back in the 80s than they are now in Quaife. Also, the old bearings were impossible to take off the old diff with the tools I had and to get them on the new diff we needed to use a hydraulic press. Long story short - take the carrier off the car by yourself and have the lsd fitted by someone you trust and has the proper equipment.

kelso840Oct 6, 2018, 6:15 am · #75

So it sounds like the average garage mechanic should NOT buy this unit expecting it to be a direct replacement?

CzechSilviaOct 6, 2018, 6:36 am · #76

it is as direct replacement as it possibly can be, I'm sure that the shims would need adjusting even if I were to put in a factory open diff from another s12. Take a look in the fsm, the section about adjusting differential is pretty extensive.

CzechSilviaOct 12, 2018, 2:19 pm · #77

Today I put the car back together and took it for a short spin. The car behaves exactly the same when driving like a regular person but when you give it some gas in the corner it's a totally different car. It goes faster and it can slide properly as well, also there's this little metal step at the entrance of my garage and when I tried to go over it really slowly with the open diff the car would get stuck and spin one tyre on the edge of the metal step but now the car goes over the step smoothly no matter how slow I drive over it so that's pretty neat, I was wondering if the new diff would take care of this little annoyance and it really did.

CzechSilviaMar 18, 2019, 2:55 pm · #78

First update of the 2019 season!

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Sourced and fitted a fj20 bonnet, It was originally red and it was also crashed but it doesn't look too bad after a few smacks with hammer, some bondo, some sanding, some more bondo, some more sanding and so on... (sadly can't find the pictures of how it looked when I bought it) Well, instead of trying to match the white colour of the car I just plastidipped it black, it's temporary - the car will get a full proffessional respray eventually. I also had a reproduction of the bonnet decal printed and I think it looks great! getting the shape of the sticker right wasn't easy but my wife is a graphics designer so it turned out alright on the first try, sticking it on was also easier than I thought, I had an extra decal made if I messed up but in the end didn't need to use it. I'll upload all the different versions of the bonnet decal here on the forum soon so anyone can have them made - just as I did with the rear decals.

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Also fitted a Depo Racing boost gauge, and deleted the factory pop-off valve because my plan is to up the boost a bit. Anyway, now I know for sure that my stock turbo settup is making 0.5 Bar. I also converted the engine to use the later style serpentine belts becuase something was wrong with the original pulleys and the alternator v-belt kept getting destroyed. What I used was s13 ca18det, water pump pulley, ca18det alternator (10 more amps yaaay!), s13 ca18det power steering pump (had to use the return line fitting from the s12 pump) and mk2 s12 ca18 crank pulley. I originally wanted to use the s13 pulleys on the s12 alternator and ps pump but the pulleys wouldn't  just bolt on, seems to work alright so far. I forgot to take a picture of that but it's not that interesting, it just looks like a mk2 setup now...

JonBMar 18, 2019, 8:47 pm · #79

Thats a fine example of an s12 you have there. It'll be nice to see the ca18de in there

CzechSilviaMar 19, 2019, 5:33 am · #80
JonB on 08:47:14 PM / 18-Mar-19Thats a fine example of an s12 you have there. It'll be nice to see the ca18de in there
Thank you, the ca18det swap is definitely going to happen!
CzechSilviaOct 12, 2019, 3:36 pm · #81

It's already been six months since I posted an update so I'll try to remedy that. Unfortunately not much has changed with the car, I had to prioritize my family's housing situation so pretty much all the money I have made in the last six months went into that and it will probably be another year or two untill I'll have some money to spend on the car again but if it all works out as planned, I'll end up with my own double garage instead of that claustrophobia inducing hole that I rent now.

Anyway, here's at least a picture of the serpentine belt conversion I did on that mk1 ca18et that I was talking about the last time.

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And I have also upgraded the ignition coils to MSD blaster II somewhere around spring but haven't got around to post about it yet so here's a blurry picture of that.

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The car seems to run fine but (and I might be just imagining that) I suspect that some of the coolant goes missing... And there aren't any visible external leaks so the headgasket might be toast. But it might nothing, I remember spilling some coolant from a radiator hose while doing some work on the radiator and fan setup earlier this year, maybe I just didn't top it off then.

Well, while I was thinking about the possible leaking headgasket I thought I might check under the rocker cover and retorque the head bolts, maybe some of them got loose or something and if it's just a tiny leak it might help...

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The inside of the cylinder head looks alright but I really had to tighten the head bolts, all of them, about 1/8 of a turn, but now I have a much better torque wrench than the one I used when I put the cylinder head on there 3 years ago, the one I had back then might have been inaccurate.

CzechSilviaJul 22, 2022, 6:11 am · #82

It turns out, it was closer to three years since I last had something to post. In the meantime we managed to build a house and move in so now I finally have a proper garage! I guess the garage is not much in the eyes of you Americans but it's damn huge by European standards! The last three years we've lived in a tiny flat to cut on the expenses while building the house and the garage I had rented at that time was even smaller than the original one and with no electricity. Well, now I also have an 1985 Land Rover in the driveway, the only problem with it is that it's not mine... Still, it's such a cool car. A friend wants to sell it and lets me use it until he finds the buyer because he doesn't have the space for it.

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It's beautiful here. It's not in the mountains, it's lowlands but there are a lot of hills and valleys around here. The video game Kingdom Come Deliverance takes place in this area - the game map, which is very accurate, is set in the area only about 10km east from my house.

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(This picture was actually shot from the children's room window)

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I've finally had some time the last two weeks to work on the S12 again and I managed to fix a few issues that bothered me. Fixed an exhaust rattle, then fixed an audible clunk coming from the drivetrain, turned out that was just because of loose half shaft bolts and then I adjusted the camber and drive height in the front. The car drives great now!

Now to the more interesting topic: I've been messing with the gearbox because what bothers me the most while driving the car is how shifting between the gears feels like. The gear lever doesn't come all the way back to the center from the left side between 1st and 2nd gear. It snaps back to center from the right side between 5th and Revers just fine but from the left side it just goes half way. When shifting fast from 2nd to 3rd, for example while on the track, I have to concentrate on moving the lever from the left position to the center before putting it up in the 3rd, otherwise I hit the "wall" between 1st and 3rd gear which is really annoying and also a little bit scary because you really don't want to downshift to 1st by an accident.

The whole problem is in the design of the 71b gearbox. As I thought about the issue, I figured the easiest way to fix this is to swap the 71b for the 71c out of a mk2 S12 or an S13 which has the shifting mechanism completely redesigned. Well, I Have not done that.... Instead, I have bought a second 71b gearbox to experiment with and learned to use Autocad 3D software to redesign the faulty part, took me quite a lot of time too, it's a pretty complex part. I had the part made by a machinist, he did a great job but I still had to work on it with a file and sand paper for half a day to make it work well - it's a prototype after all. This is what I ended up with:

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top - original part ; bottom - new design

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left - new design ; right - original part

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left - new design ; right - original part

The most important difference from the original design is the change of the profile cut in the front cylindrical part as seen in the last two pictures. The way the mechanism works is that there is spring loaded plunger pressing against this profile. When the gear lever is in the center the plunger sits in the center of the profile and when you move the lever right or left the whole part turns alnog it's axis and it forces the plunger up the cut slope working against the spring pressure which in turn wants to return the lever back to the center. The original Nissan design of that profile is not symmetrical and my problem with that is that the slope the plunger works against when moving the lever left to 1st or 2nd gear is a lot less steep than the right side where the 5th and Reverse is. I redesigned the profile to be symmetrical and steeper so the lever will snap back to center from left position just as well as from the right position.

Another change, and that was just a bonus, is that I moved the hole where the gear lever is connected by 10mm up and thus moving the fulcrum point which results in shorter shift track - It's now a short shifter as well! For this to work right I had to modify the gear lever itself - the lower part of the lever, where the plastic bushing sits, had to be made the 10mm longer. While I was at it I also put more of a bend in the lever itself to place the shift knob a little closer to the driver.

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left - original part ; right - new design

 Sadly I have not had the chance to fit it in the car and test it on the road but it seems to work as intended with the spare gearbox on the bench. I have not road tested i because you need to take off the gearbox housing to install the part so that means pulling the gearbox from the car and that is annoying. When I pull the gearbox from the car I plan to have it refurbished because one of the bearings inside is whining and I don't have the money for that right now... Anyway, this is how it all goes together:

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The next thing on the list is upgrading the cooling setup. I just got this ebay radiator with aluminium shroud and couple of fans.

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And I also got pair of these funny wire headlight protectors that came on the cars with headlight wipers. Even without the wipers, they look so cool on the car, very rallye style.

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Damn, it feels nice to be back!

kelso840Jul 22, 2022, 7:10 am · #83

Congrats on the house and garage!! Plenty of room to do most anything on your car.

Great work on the shifter. I'll be interested to hear about the feel whenever you get to try it in the car. Also, I'm drooling over those headlight covers. Always wanted a set.

CzechSilviaAug 15, 2022, 2:06 pm · #84

Installed the new radiator. I moved it back towards the engine to gain some space for the future intercooler and its piping. I know the brackets could use some paint to make the engine bay look less ghetto but I don't care enough about the looks at this stage.

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kelso840Aug 15, 2022, 6:21 pm · #85

I support your ghetto fab.