CA20E Manuel- Times!!

Hey guyz,
G-TECH'd my car today,
My S12 wieghts 2860pounds with me weighting 75kg and my bro weighting 90kg in it.
The CAR=
CA20E, Manuel, Extractors, Exhaust, Normal Fuel, CRAPCRAPCRAP Suspension!
Here are some stats,

0-100kph=10.2
1/4mile time(started braking b4 it measured my time!DAMN!)
=17.7 @ 74MPH or 120kph

NOW, when i am alone in my car i should get 0-100kph time of around 9.8 i rekon, because there will be 90kg less in it!!lol, plus i will run 98octane fuel.
ALSO, I will do my quarter mile time with the same ''settings'' as above and i will also not BRAKE b4 the end the calculation!! lol hopen for a 17 flat!
Oh well there are some stats to get u thinkin,

Lata,

98 octane.... god i wish, best we have here is watered down 91...

98 octane.... god i wish, best we have here is watered down 91...

why? unless you run high compression it won't do anything for you but burn a hole in your wallet.

that was my thought exactly. Unless he intends to advance the timing about 10 deg or so.

Please don't tell me you are using Octane booster to attain the 98 number...If you are here are some things to be aware of...I will try to find the article that correcponds to this information...ok here goes...91 fuel is richer than 87 because of the way that 91 is produced, this means that you can add more air to 91 and still not run lean. But here is where people get fooled...because adding octane booster actually makes your mixture leaner, thus meaning you must run less air through the engine. If you don't, the side effects are as you can imagine...usually a popped piston, and possibly a scored cylinder. The best way to get to 98 octane would be to use VP Racing (or equivalent) 110, or 120 octane fuel. In our sleds for racing we use 10% race fuel to the 94 Sunoco, or Pioneer, and results for us are about 1-2 tenths of a second. Not noticeable the eye, but a difference none the less. And the only reason we use it is because we get it somewhat discounted, and because we need every hundredth, or tenth of a second we can get. Race fuel is not cheap, and unless you are racing I would not suggest using...it wouldn't be worth the money...you'd be better doing engine work fo rthe cost of race fuel...8) If you have any questions about this just ask me...I do have some experience with using this stuff. Also this goes for everybody...if you can, avoid using all Esso, and preferably Petro Canada gasoline. This is because their gas SUCKS, and you will tend to lose some performance if using it...The best currently is Sunoco, Shell, and Pioneer. Of those three Pioneer tends to be the best...if it passes a race inspection everytime then it shows you something...8)

I just use Premuim Fuel,
We have Unleaded Fuel and then
Premium which is 98octane.

Without a doubt my car is faster with 98octane fuel in it!!
Plus it runs better, smoother.

Im not a fan of gettn OCTANE BOOSTER BOTTLES just for a one off flog because then its not really how fast ur car is then is it, u drag someone without it and say
"oh, i didnt have my octane booster in!!"
YA know what im sayin??

Anwayz,
All i know is that dumpn her in 2nd in the wet isnt a good idea... I drifted alright,,, all the way round the round-a-bout!! NOT GOOD!
And thats with a Crappy CA20,
What bout u guyz with CA18ET/DETS and FJ20'z!! damn that must be scary,

My stock as a rock 280,000km '84 SGL ran 17 flat, premium fuel made SFA differance to it but advancing the timing from oz specs (0 degree before TDC) made a huge differance.

My old CA20E gazu used to be fun to drift in the wet, weeee!!. The SR20DET is a bit scary at times, i have had it kick sideways at 120km/h in the wet just rolling on the throttle....

NebuchernezzerMy stock as a rock 280,000km '84 SGL ran 17 flat, premium fuel made SFA differance to it but advancing the timing from oz specs (0 degree before TDC) made a huge differance.
QUOTE]
WhaT u mean by 'SFA'????
did u run the 17flat with the advanced timing or without???

In sweden we have 95, 96 and 98 octane.

Will try the difference when My engine is ready, want to know how big changes in ignition and boost I can make with 95 and 98 octane.

17 flat was with advanced timing as it's only mod, it felt so bad otherwise...SFA = sweet f**k all :)

Premium Unleaded ( 98 Octane ) only makes a difference in N/A cars with raised compression. But on a turbo car it means u can turn the boost up higher without pinging (same thing as higher comp really)

U poor blokes in america and canada get shitty fuel, thats why your 2.5 litre turbo WRX puts out less power than the 2 litre turbo that Europe, Australia and Japan gets. You have bigger bore, but less compression, and get less power.
BUT the good news is, we can get those internals, stick our 98 octance fuel in it. And get HUGE gains over a stock WRX :banger:

If ya like WRX's that is, just an example of fuels and how the wold market accommodates them.

Premium Unleaded ( 98 Octane ) only makes a difference in N/A cars with raised compression. But on a turbo car it means u can turn the boost up higher without pinging (same thing as higher comp really)
.

My Bro's old Mk2 Escort startd to ping on crap fuel, he had to use 98 octane fuel.
This was a N/A 2litre....
Premium does make a difference to stock N/A cars performance wise,,, not much but i'll take it...

As for horsepower differences with different octanes, there are none, on a scientific level. Higher octane ignites at a higher temperature, that's the only difference. Obviously if your engine is pinging, you'll get more power out of higher octane, or if it has computer controlled spark with a knock sensor, it will advance the timing further with higher octane. However, in an engine that isn't knocking, adding high test is just a waste of money.

My Bro's old Mk2 Escort startd to ping on crap fuel, he had to use 98 octane fuel.
This was a N/A 2litre....
Premium does make a difference to stock N/A cars performance wise,,, not much but i'll take it...
It does make a difference in escorts, they are very prone to detonation my RS2000 is always on the edge of detonation :(
The CA20e couldn't care less as it's miles from detonation most of the time. Just depends. 4As ping fairly easily to, anything that was designed for super is prone to detonation cos back in the day super had a really good octane rating, the crap we get nowadays doesn't cut it in alot of older cars.

The octane rating is the fuel's restiance to knock. Higher octane fuels burn with a more predictable combustion than a lower octane fuel (which is why they are less likely to knock). A higher octane fuel would not cause you to be more rich or lean than a lower octane fuel since the fuel injector is going to inject the same amount either way. Sometimes it is appropriate to run a higher octane than originally required on a stock engine. Over time carbon buildup can cause hot spots in the combustion chamber as well as a slightly raised compression ratio (making the engine more prone to knock). Unless your engine knocks on a lower grade of fuel, there is no reason to run a higher octane. Generally high octane fuels have more detergents in them which help keep the fuel system cleaner.

Generally high octane fuels have more detergents in them which help keep the fuel system cleaner.

Really, Thats interesting to know, Cheers,

My car is runnin crap now anywayz, she's using HELL fuel
70km-10Litres!!!!
because sumtin wrong with my thermostat, temp sensor or sumtin!!!!??????
annoyin the crap outta me!!!!!

Really, Thats interesting to know, Cheers,

My car is runnin crap now anywayz, she's using HELL fuel
70km-10Litres!!!!
because sumtin wrong with my thermostat, temp sensor or sumtin!!!!??????
annoyin the crap outta me!!!!!

Ummmm dude, have you had a look at your Air Flow Meter lately, or your fuel regulator. That kind of economy is hard to come by just with a different fuel. I get 520kms to a 50 litre tank in an RB30e skyline (1987, manual)
For a start put some NULON fuel injector cleaner through it, secondly get your AFM looked at/adjusted.

Catcha

Ummmm dude, have you had a look at your Air Flow Meter lately, or your fuel regulator. That kind of economy is hard to come by just with a different fuel. I get 520kms to a 50 litre tank in an RB30e skyline (1987, manual)
For a start put some NULON fuel injector cleaner through it, secondly get your AFM looked at/adjusted.

Catcha

Yea all fixed now FINALLY, THERMOSTAT and Temp Sensor problems...

But im gonna put sum Injector Cleaner into it later anywayz which will hopefully make it run a bit better.

A higher octane fuel would not cause you to be more rich or lean than a lower octane fuel since the fuel injector is going to inject the same amount either way.
It will inject the same amount, but under that philosiphy all fuels burn the same, which they don't. How a fuel burns determines the amount of air required to burn properly, and putting in additives changes the burn properties of the fuel.

Alex I think 1=2 is right.

Octane is used as a measure of the flash point of the fuel.

It is counter intuitive but a high octane fuel is harder to ignite than a low octane fuel. It is used in engines that are on the edge of detonation through poor design, high compresion, high inlet temps, early timing and so on. It might be easier to think of it as having a slower burn time because thats how its used.

Changing the time it takes to burn the fuel in a cylinder doesn't effect how rich or lean the mixture is, but it will help to smooth out the power pulses at the flywheel and allow you to run earlier timing. Now that will give you a higher averge cylinder pressure. :evillaug:

Anyway the upshot of all this is that if you have an almost modern car that has a computer controlled ignition and a fairly high compression ratio (ie better than 8.5/1 or so) you should see some improvement from running the "good stuff". If it has the traditional kettering system it would have to be tuned for that fuel and you couldn't go back to the cheep stuff without re-tuning the timing / ignition and thats just a pain in the arse.

Not that any of this matters in my case. The CA20e has such low compression it would just about run on kerro.

Sorry for the lecture guys thats just how I sort of understand it. If I have it wrong please let me know!

just wondering if u guys have the same sticker inside the fuel cap as i do, mine says "97 super octane or higher"... (i have a CA18ET)

mine has a sticker of homer s eating a doughnut.

mine being a pre-86 aus-spec, has not cat convertor, but that never stopped me putting in normal unleaded. however i did get told off by another motorist when filling up one day!! "it's mine, and I'll fill it up with whatever it'll run on".