Matt's S12

seishukuFound a good deal on pistons, rings, and bearings on ebay for less than $150, so I ordered that.
Hopefully I'll have a short block put together soon, then I gotta get the head gasket ($30 shipped) and a few minor misc items (a few o-rings, from main seal, and a clutch slave).

It'll be a little lower compression before, since it was either 4 new Sentra 9.5:1 pistons or one new 10:1 piston, so I opted for the lower CR (plus it was a nice package deal). It'll make me a little less nervous while working on the tune.

Then I can start saving for forged parts and then really start kicking things up.

Potentially, yes, however 1BAR and a T28 will still need it.

Anywho, progress!
(https://i.imgur.com/hHCcFpx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j9qnhuH.jpg)

Got the short block reassembled with all new bearings and 9.5:1 pistons.

Well, not completely reassembled, I still have to do final torque to all the fasteners, but I have to make an angle gauge.

wtf spec is in degrees on that thing?

Head, mains, and rod bolts, they're all torque to yield and Nissan specs them out in degrees.

Appearently Autozone has a cheap-o angle gauge for $10, so I got that and a 1/2" drive 10MM socket with a 10MM allen wrench I can cut up, so I can do my head bolts. (cut the allen wrench to a few short pieces, so if one breaks, I just swap it to a new one!)

NOW, the short block is reassembled.

(https://i.imgur.com/VRkDwnD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/runFob9.jpg)

That's everything but the head, front main seal (still have to order that), crank pulley, and transmission.

Ordered:
Head gasket
Front main seal
Clutch slave
And two oil filters (one for break-in, one for afterwards)

Bought:
Anti-freeze
More brake fluid (gotta bleed it again)

Next up:
More fluids!

One step closer!

Edit:

Check list
 1. Head gasket/Head
 2. Front main seal/Pulley
 3. Oil/Oil filter
 4. Intercooler
 5. Radiator
 6. Hoses
 7. Coolant
 8. Turbo/Exhaust
 9. Intake piping/Charge piping
10. Engine harness
11. Prop shaft - Done!
12. Half shafts - Done!
13. Parking brake cables
14. Finish putting cab back together

i may have missed it, whatd you do to the prop shaft and half shafts?

Nothing, just easier to move around with out them in.

Hey Matt,

I have money for parts but no time to do the work, you have no money but you do have spare time. Wanna trade? I got a Mini Cooper that needs the floor welded back in.

seishukuCheck list
 1. Head gasket/Head
2. Front main seal/Pulley - Done!
 3. Oil/ Oil filter - Done
4. Intercooler - Done!
5. Radiator - Done!
 6. Hoses
 7. Coolant
 8. Turbo/Exhaust
 9. Intake piping/Charge piping
10. Engine harness
11. Prop shaft - Done!
12. Half shafts - Done!
13. Parking brake cables
14. Finish putting cab back together - Done! I do still need to put the heater duct back in, but that has to wait until the engine harness is in.
15. Get some gas!

Well, I got just about everything I can do, until the head gasket comes in tomorrow.

I bought the rest of the oil today, ended up with my usual Pennzoil Synchromesh oil instead of the 20w50 I was thinking about, since they had plenty in stock (for a change).

this man gets shit done! Good luck with start up man!

woohoo!

BUT, it's nearly done, the only thing I have to do now is put the exhaust back on, let the battery charge back up, and hopefully fire it up with no issues!

She's back on the road!
Gotta retune a little because of the compression change.

Now, the question is, do I break in on boost and drive normally, or keep it NA?
It's awfully loud with the wastegate open, but it is drivable.

Drive it like you stole it, the rings in my engine didn't seat until I did just that. My personal feeling is that if it's gonna break, it will do so in the first 100 miles regardless of how it's driven. So unless you doubt your rebuild skills, go ahead and flog it.

That's pretty much how I was planning on doing it, hard and fast. No one else ever seems to think it's a good idea though.

The initial start up was my biggest worry, but she fired right up, even idled fairly well.

win!

seishukuThat's pretty much how I was planning on doing it, hard and fast. No one else ever seems to think it's a good idea though.

The initial start up was my biggest worry, but she fired right up, even idled fairly well.

Hell yeah!  congrats on getting it back together man!

now, start saving up for round 2 haha

Oh, also I made this:
(https://i.imgur.com/VlXhAbt.jpg)
12+1 CAS trigger disc, made it on our brand-new Mitsubishi WaterJet we have at work now!

I guess I got the D shaft key at the wrong location, I had to remove that so I could rotate the disc around to the right position.
I also had to drill out the trigger holes slightly, because it would seem that the water jet doesn't make a perfectly round hole, and the pierce points were screwing up my trigger events. Careful tooling setup would fix that, or use slots instead.
It's also too thick, and that causes other issues.

Anywho, it seems that the disc is working well now, and I'll cut a correct one later.

Apparently I also missed a ground on the engine, which was also equally annoying.

Got a few gallons of gas today, and did some driving.
Ran a few logs through the analyzer and now my VE table is looking pretty damn good.

I might do a little more tomorrow, see if I can get it a little better.
I also need to readjust my AFR correction table, I thought I get the upper RPM/boost areas to 11.5-11.8:1, but it's still at like 12.5-12.8:1. Weird, but whatever.

Also, somehow, one of my headlight bulbs got smashed... Inside the headlight housing! That's really weird, it's like it exploded!

Careful tooling setup would fix that... (insert excuse x,y and z here)

I don't think I'll use EDIS, but I may end up putting a 36-1 wheel on the crank, and let that trigger MS. That would at leave be accurate at the crank.
Of course that would limit me to waste spark only, so no full sequential COP, but whatever.

No, it wasn't an HID, I have those on the AUX lights. It's just one of the cheap-o halogen H4's that came with the housing.

seishukuI don't think I'll use EDIS, but I may end up putting a 36-1 wheel on the crank, and let that trigger MS. That would at leave be accurate at the crank.
Of course that would limit me to waste spark only, so no full sequential COP, but whatever.

No, it wasn't an HID, I have those on the AUX lights. It's just one of the cheap-o halogen H4's that came with the housing.

I guess so! That'll learn me to park outside!

More dickin around at work (while waterjet training, which is basically me getting paid to fuck off and not get in trouble, plus free parts!)

Made a Nissan logo out of some scrap plastic:
(https://i.imgur.com/xiIbmSN.jpg)

CAS trigger disc #4, for some reason I keep screwing up the trigger angle and MegaSquirt didn't like any of the others. This one SHOULD work:
(https://i.imgur.com/QdnCIhA.jpg)

AAAAAND, the beginning to my oil block adapter plate:
(https://i.imgur.com/EvsDZtF.jpg)
Still needs a little (a lot) of machining.

Yay, the CAS disc works!

It would seem that the lower the resolution disc, the more the timing will want to drift retarded. With this 24 window disc, the timing does still drift about .5 degrees, but not nearly as much as that last attempt (which drifted almost 5 degrees!)

It might have something to do with the way megasquirt calculates the timing and trigger events, which yea, I know wouldn't happen with EDIS since it does the timing.

sweet. so is it beastly? ha

It's not bad at only 7PSI, but it needs more timing under boost, below 4000RPM.

I gotta get the water injection back on, then jack it up to 14PSI.

lol dont pop it already

trade engines? yes? ok Ill be waiting

should machine me a plastic coilpack cover with something cool involved haha

If you can draw it (in CAD), I can more than likely cut it.

I can draw it....like....on a napkin!

lol well that doesn't help the waterjet any.

Im googling it now to see if anyone has the CAD specs but Im not finding it

A little side project:
Building a car PC?

Here's the motherboard tray, motherboard and hard drive. Everything is in their approximate location where they will be in the case:

Now if only I had enough material left to make it out of stainless... Oh well, painted steel will be fine.

It's only a 2.8GHz P4 with 1GB RAM and a 8GB HDD, nothing fancy. Will either be running WinXP Embedded or Linux.
I'll most likely be using something like this for the PSU:
http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-A...mp;category=101 (http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply?sc=8&category=101)

KustamogenIm googling it now to see if anyone has the CAD specs but Im not finding it

cool...is this going into the s12? What are you going to be doing for monitor and keyboard/mouse?

still..thats pretty cool.

I have an old shuttle computer and 19" monitors all over my closet haha.....I was thinking of somehow incorporating those into my s12.....but I cant think of anyway to make any of that "hidden" yet practical haha

if i ever go supercharged on the ka i might go nistune with my netbook that has like a 10 inch screen and its a 1.7 gig with 1 gig of ram and a 160 gig hd...nistune or ms...i dont know yet...and i dont want to de rail the tech talk with the which one is better discussion. If the time comes I will just have to research it and decide what works better for me then.

I got the parts cut (though I screwed up one, so I gotta re-cut that), and most of it welded up... It should be pretty cool looking when I'm done.

I'll do some more work on it tomorrow and get some pics.

(https://i.imgur.com/YNhtrFw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dkiIVRZ.jpg)

i want to know really bad where your going to be putting this bad boy...but i have a feeling you wont tell us...you will show us when its done!

I'm not 100% sure where yet

hahaha...i thought you had a place all figured out and that you where building the size of the case to what you needed...oh well.