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(https://i.imgur.com/r4HMJeI.jpg)
Got some 100watt equivalent CFLs to replace the two old 75w bulbs... I still need one more shop light for the right hand bay, as it's a little dark still.
I also built a little damper can for my 'squirts MAP sensor, should smooth out things a lot. Just two 1.25" PVC pipe plugs and a coupler, then drilled and tapped each end for 1/8" NPT fittings.
Yay lighting!
I have 7 or 8 fixtures in my little 2 car garage... Lighting is key
And, you saw the lamp in the chimney... I love that motherfucker
BTW I want my tire wrench back, I think I left it there!
After getting back home, I discovered that my back brakes have had it, so they will need replaced as soon as possible. Check your brakes people, it's never too late for safety!!! New shoes and drums FTW!
Big Brother on 10:05:56 PM / 22-Apr-11 it's never too late for safety!!!Until said safety abandons you lol.
seishuku on 11:38:48 PM / 22-Apr-11Were you able to get the axle nut loose?
https://youtu.be/1hrq0I8_gbs
Not running on the 36-1 crank trigger, but it's at least running wasted spark via cam trigger.
Hmm... It's getting spark blow out at 5PSI with these coils. I get the feeling it's how I'm driving the base of the power transistors, in that it's not enough current to fully saturate both transistors, which is just a change of a resistor for the ignition pull-up, but I don't really feel like tearing into my megasquirt right now.
In order to find out if you're fully saturating the coils (i.e., set dwell), or if the transistors aren't fully 'on', you need an o-scope. I can drop mine off next time I stop by if you want?
I'm fairly sure it's the transistors, it does it even with an unrealistically long dwell.
I'll have to work out the math and see how much current two BU941s take to saturate, then adjust my pull-up accordingly.
If that doesn't do it, then I might need to dig deeper with a scope.
That pull-up resistor was a guess anyway for the OEM power transistor, so it might not even be fully saturating that either.
Don't forget, the load you're driving is inductive. That may change things a bit, since (at least I think) those saturation curves are made driving resistive loads.
For most transistors yea, it's usually a resistive load for the curves, but I think the BU941 gives for both resistive and inductive (since they're designed for ignition coils).
I think the key is to bring spark A and spark B directly to the DB37 and have base resistors are the transistors.
In other news, I did more work on my oil line adapter:
(https://i.imgur.com/CFhuABk.jpg)
Still need a thermostat, fittings, a cooler core, oil filter base, etc.
Or maybe just skip the cooler and just do a filter relocation.
BUMPER?!?!?
Have you been slacking off, or is there an update?
No, no update... Haven't had time to work on it lately, I barely had time to fix a fouled plug. :lol:
Do something, FFS! It's a long weekend! :evillaugh:
Wouldn't have guessed :tongue2:
(http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/7294959/2/istockphoto_7294959-perfect-orange-pylon-safety-cone-high-view-clipping-path.jpg)
Lol
Well, as luck would have it, the side retainers that I'm using have the same dimentional marker as the originals, so I don't need to worry about preload... Obviously I still checked the tooth mesh pattern and backlash.
Now I just gotta take it to work and weld up the spiders, and get it on the car!
That diff came off the car that a one with the earth for 16 years. The one that was the orginal CA donor for my car.
Brutally rusty.
But, only 70k miles on it.....
Also! Ever considered giving it the fozzy locker treatment, rather than just welding it straight up?
It cleaned up real nice though, about 15 minutes with a wire wheel on my angle grinder.
It's just the side retainers and back cover that were real nasty, being aluminum doesn't fair as well as cast steel. Lucky I have good condition spares of both. :lol:
That locking method has crossed my mind, but a full weld is going to add structural strength to the diff, so I don't go shattering spiders.
Edit:
I wouldn't mind going that if it were an R200, but the R180's spider assembly is pretty small in comparison.
FYI, it's really weird driving with one axle... Almost like driving with one brake, but in reverse. :lol:
On the bright side, the diff is awesome... No noise at ALL, beautiful... Until the axle spline broke.
That's because I have legit parts.
;)
That half shaft is crazy. The R200's have slightly beefier axles, time for an upgrade!
If only I could source the parts, and had the money.
Anyway...
(https://i.imgur.com/R3PUXWL.jpg)
Nom nom nom! Axle good!
Broken axle... baaaad.
At least I can still drive the car, albeit traction handy capped and a bit lopsided. :lol:
1987 NISSAN 200SX 2.0L 1974cc L4 MFI (H) [CA20E] SOHC : Drivetrain : CV Half Shaft Assembly
A-1 CARDONE Part # 606081
Price Core Total
$65.79 $45.00 $110.79 On Rockauto.com. Price is per side.
wery nice colour you have done too the gearbox :)
Jordan on 11:50:28 PM / 30-Aug-111987 NISSAN 200SX 2.0L 1974cc L4 MFI (H) [CA20E] SOHC : Drivetrain : CV Half Shaft AssemblyYeah, I know.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 606081
Price Core Total
$65.79 $45.00 $110.79 On Rockauto.com. Price is per side.
Ignition Switch (shipping):
RockAuto $2.66 (1st class)
Competitor $32.33 (UPS 2-day)
Yay "new" axle!
(https://i.imgur.com/QhzvYgu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UjS18yy.jpg)
Nice not having to baby it around everywhere.
where did you end up getting the axle from matt? My driver side i think needs a new boot or is going out...there is oil marks on the underside of the car near the boot and when i rail on the car it makes an interesting smell...
RockAuto, they have the best price... I just hope they don't run out of these. :lol:
Did you send your old axle back to them and get the core price back alright?
Haven't sent it out yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll get the core charge back... All the local stores said they would take it no problem.
Decided to ditch the idea of using a VR sensor for the crank wheel, and bought a new hall effect sensor that DIYAutoTune came out with.
It's a really nice sensor, no VR conditioner to deal with, just a nice clean square wave signal... And I didn't have to change any wiring really, just pulled the lead from the OEM CAS connector and changed a few MegaSquirt settings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leJmlag2Ciw
Rock solid timing, no real timing drift to speak of, but I am having a little issue with it getting RPM spikes above 4000 RPM... Not sure about that, might just be a sensor alignment issue.
At least I just have the mounting tab for it just tack welded on the original bracket I had made for the old VR sensor, so it's not a big deal to move it a little.
(https://i.imgur.com/fXhcLRw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sUIVHOa.jpg)
The sensor and the mounting tab I waterjetted.
nice
where you bought that sensor?
http://www.diyautotune.com
Well I fixed the problem at 4000rpm, so it's drivable at least... There are some minor hiccups here and there, but it's way smoother than it is with the distributor's CAS.
Finally got another pair of tires to match the fronts.
General Tire, Alitmax HP... same size 205/60/15.
They seem to have the same grip that my old Bridgestone RE960 or Yokohama H4S, maybe a LITTLE more.
They don't have nearly as stiff of a side wall, they're grand touring tires, so I figured as much, but I got them more for winter than anything.
New rear springs, from an 03 VW Passat... They're the front springs from the VW, about twice the spring rate at what I can find (300lb/in), which is awesome compared to the stock 130lb/in (or probably 90lb/in in my soggy springs case).
(https://i.imgur.com/VsR7rZT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L3bVGwJ.jpg)
Wow that's high
Nah, just going for the jacked up rear look. I just need some wide ass 70 profile tires for it now. :lol:
Anyway, got it bad running on the crank hall sensor again, now that I got an amp for it (seems the sensor's signal is too weak for a MS 2.2 board)... Seems to be working well enough now.
What's this? Finally did the crank trigger, and realized I was right? :laugh:
RE: RPM spikes
On datalog if it's spiking to some ridiculously high number (mine would hit 19,000 RPM), you have a noise issue that needs to be dealt with. For me, this turned out to be related to RFI from the ignition system (I have EDIS) causing false triggers. The recommended switch to suppression wires and resistor plugs completely cured it, it's been perfect ever since. You might try that, as well as shielding the sensor wires really well. Don't connect the shield to chassis ground either, ground it only at the ECU. Also, now that you have a crank trigger there's nothing stopping you fron using those COP's I gave you. Unless you already have...
thx for the passat info
lol ive ordered just 10mins ago 2x passat lowering springs (40mm lower)
Passat rear shocks will also work on our rear, with a little modding for the upper mount and a smaller diameter bolt for the lower (or just drill out the shock for the S12 bolt).
Nick: I would have had a crank trigger sooner, if I was able to get that VR conditioner working (don't know what's up with that thing), then they came out with that hall sensor... Then I found out that the hall sensor doesn't sink enough current to properly run a 2.2 input, then I got a conditioner board. :lol:
So it's working better now, it still gets some misses/spikes around 2800-3500RPM, BUT it gets better when it's warm? Not sure what's going on there.
It's all properly shielded, OEM shielded cam sensor wiring is used with the shield extended all the way down to the sensor... So I'm pretty sure it's not RFI, at least not from the ignition.
I'm thinking it's probably electrical noise, since the sensor and conditioner board are both powered off the +12v that powered the OEM cam sensor, I've just been lazy and haven't tried the filtered +5v from the MS.
Plugs are factory resistor plugs and wires are old OEM, but I'm pretty sure they're suppression type. I didn't pick up much noise on the o-scope at least, plus my alternator is kinda jank and needs to be replaced.
Edit:
Matt Cramer told me that some times the sensor can be a little sensitive to sensor alignment, so I might play with that a little.
Oh, and I don't have any filter caps installed on the opto input circuit, so that isn't doing any favors right now either, so I might try putting one back in there.
Well, I moved the sensor to the Megasquirt's filtered 5 volt power supply and so far I haven't noticed any spikes or misses on a 18 minute drive at various RPMs and loads.
I should know for sure tomorrow, I usually catch a few misses driving to and from work.
I need a new alternator. :lol: Noisy bastard.
IF this is better now, I can finally start working on getting those ford coils working correctly. I know they'll work, I just need to get the drivers set up right.
lazy weekend... got the megasquirt modded to hopefully better support the ford coils (spark output right off the processor via resistor, instead of going through the led transistors with a pull-up).
It's still running the distributor just fine, so I don't think the Ford COPs will be a problem. I could be wrong though. :lol:
I also removed all the old additional circuits that I had for the 2nd trigger input and launch control (not that I really need it).
After I get the coils working, I'll have to make a plug for the distributor so I can remove it.
Ha, how do you like that?
(https://i.imgur.com/qdAnG8E.png)
Instant MPG is pretty nice, of course instant will always be higher than average MPG.
sweet
Made a little something for my MegaSquirt
(https://i.imgur.com/9cUTF2N.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EigFNCS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xbpLElJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k3z4A6d.jpg)
I know, the end plates already had a flange for mounting the ECU, but I remade the one end for an additional connector and didn't feel like bothering with the flange.
I just need to figure out where I want to permanently mount the MS, then I can finish the bracket ends. Probably just a simple hole, but I might drill/tap the back side and make the fasteners hidden, I donno yet.
iam starting to hate all enginers and machinists LOL i wish i had the tools to make shiny metal stuff
:lol:
Yeah, the WaterJet we have at work really saves a ton of time on making various parts and pieces, and does it fast for the precision it has (usually within 4/1000 of an inch repeatability).
Something like that can be done with a mill, but I'd bet a $3 bill that it would take 4 times longer to make.