Matt's S12

That looks pretty good to me

vids or it didn't happen lol nice what kid of power should you be making now?

I'm still not sure what I was making with the T25, but it has to be at least 260WHP, so I should be able to pull 300WHP with out much trouble.
Injectors are going to be a limiting factor here though.

The biggest thing is the exhaust flow is MUCH more than it was before (T25 chokes the crap out of the exhaust), so power band will be WAY wider.

It revs cleaner too, with the T25 it would be a little stuffy and rev up a little slow, it's nice and quick now.

awesome! what about your maf? i remember reading you were close to maxing it? also where'd you get the t3 I'm in the market for a cheapish turbo large frame incase my t3/t4 doesn't work out....

Megasquirt isn't running a MAFS, so no worries there... The injectors were nearly maxed though, not sure how that's gonna work out with this turbo though, only tuning will tell.

If I remember correctly, the turbo is off a Saab 900, it's a 50 trim T3, the same that's used on the turbo Ford Thunderbird as well (though the discharge flanges are different).
Turbo Dodge Caravans I think got a slightly smaller trim T3, but those have a different turbine inlet flange.

ahh ok and when you gonna upgrade injectors?

Depends on how close they are to 100%, but I don't know what pressure I'm going to run either.
Supposedly 530CC injectors should be good to 350WHP,  but then again according to Megasquirt I was very close to maxing them out on the T25, so I don't really know until I get to tuning it.

gotcha... Well good luck with the tune.. how hard is it to use megasquirt with my wiring issues i have  on my black hatch I may go megasquirt...

Wasn't too hard, I modified my original engine harness to suit the MS, the hardest part with MS is getting the box it self set up with the mods you need.

ahh so then it would be a good idea to get a new harness then since mine is all fucking random....

awesome I just might do that...

Did a bit of retuning... Did a guess at the increase to get it going and it didn't really change a ton, so I guessed right.
Just needed to rework some of the boost transition areas, so my low end isn't all funky.

Impressions so far: Pretty nice, the power comes in smoother than the T25 (which would come in pretty hard), but that could just be the wastegate being a little soft... It's only got the 5PSI spring in it right now (wanted to be safe to start out).

But, even with only 5PSI, it actually feels like it's making nearly as much as the T25 was at 14PSI... So 7 or 10PSI it should be right where I really want it.

Edit:
What I really should do is get a pair of solenoids and set up the Megasquirt to control the boost, with two valves I can do a "push-pull" type setup and could actually use even the smallest spring and not worry about the exhaust pressure pushing open the wastegate.

nice!

There's something odd about the springs that came with the wastegate... It was supposed to come with a 4LB, an 8LB, and a 10LB, but the strongest one is the 4LB one I had in there...
I put in one of the others along with the 4LB (it's a smaller diameter, dual spring) and I only get 10PSI tops.

Maybe I should just order some springs from TIAL, I donno.
Or maybe I should just make a new boost controller again.

On the plus side, it holds boost nice and steady and doesn't fall off at all.

I do think I need to up the boost to at least 12PSI or 14PSI.
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Woot its always good news when you can up the boost....

So let me get this straight: I was right about the crank trigger being the shizz, and I've been riding you for how long on getting a better turbo...  Are we learning yet? lol
Also, since I got that turbo from a Saab does that mean you now have a SaabVWNismo turbocharger? ROTFLMAO!

Speaking of progress, I've been working on that injection manifold for the Mini. Here's where I'm at right now:

Block you fabbed got drilled for injectors
made a rail with AN-6 fittings
Had to make an intermediate plate to mount the TB because of hole placement, 3/8" aluminum plate

Having a hard time figuring out how to get a TPS for this thing, from what I gather it's 200SX? Heading to the parts store tomorrow to figure it out. After that I need to get a set of GM temp sensors, mount the IAT in the side of the block opposite the linkage, then get it in the car and run the water lines to/from it. Getting closer!

Got a complete fuel system for the Mini for $100 too- 25' of steel 3/8" hardline at Autozone cost me $20, F-150 pump for $50, some random fittings for $30 and I had a regulator and -6 braided line sitting in a bin in the garage. Also found a spare 6' Megasquirt harness I thought I lost, so I guess I'm set. Now if I could find some time...

(http://miniman82.4t.com/car%20stuff/mini%20manifold/IMGP6061.JPG)
(http://miniman82.4t.com/car%20stuff/mini%20manifold/IMGP6062.JPG)

Yea yea, keep your "I told you so" to your self. :P

That thing is looking good though, I figured you would have to make an additional plate to mount the TB to.

With as small as the throttle body is, I'm going to say it's more than likely from a GA16DE 200SX, which also came in the same year Sentra, so pretty much any autoparts store should have a TPS that will work.

Yep, that's what it was! Found it under a '91 year car.

I was confused as all hell for the longest time, because I had a TB in the (Waukegan) garage that I pulled from a Saturn back in California. When I got unpacked here I thought it was that one, but for some damn reason no Saturn TPS would fit it at all. Did I get this thing from you and just forget about it or something? My brain is a bit fried from all the weed I used to smoke, I guess. Stopped by Pick n Pull and got the pigtails for the TPS, injectors and water temp sensor. I'd have gotten one for the coil as well, but I spotted a nearly new VW 1600 engine and had to have it. I know I don't need another one, but it was a very low miles factory replacement engine. They normally cost $1,300 to buy, so when you can get one for only $200 you don't pass it up. Probably just flip it for $500 and make a profit. Also saw a Previa SC, I'm going back to pull the 'charger out of it in a couple days.

Well shit, I have no idea where it came from then. I don't remember ever removing a Nissan TB at the junkyard, so if it didn't come from you it's an unsolved mystery. You're right about those chargers are pretty small, if you don't like the SC12 I have an IHI twin screw from a Mazda Millenia. How about a twin charged engine in your ride?

Nah, no compound charging for me, way too much trouble than it's worth.
I don't think there's enough room in the engine bay for it anyway. :lol:

Nissan did make a neat little engine that was a super-turbo, MA09ERT... 900CC 4 cylinder, made 130BHP IIRC, pretty impressive for .9L
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seishukuIf I'm reading these compressor maps correctly, at 1.8PR the T3 should be flowing as much as the T25 at 2.0PR (about 18 LB/min). So at 11PSI I should be at about the same power that I was with the T25, though it'll probably be a little more considering the exhaust isn't being as restrictive as it is with the T25... At 9PSI (that I'm at now), I'm running about 70% injector duty, so at 11PSI I'll probably be closer to 80% and be at my max again.

seishukuI don't think it will be much worse than the t25, which at full tilt was pushing 150 degree temps. At least that's the highest I ever saw.

That's after, as read by the MS IAT sensor.

Well, I have other plans, mainly setting up the MS to control it.
Besides, eventually the AVC-R will have to go back on the bug...

Well, I guess I'm looking for a new head gasket...

I guess the "OEM" head gasket I bought when I rebuilt the engine wasn't OEM... It's leaking compression at #3 into one of the water jackets.

There goes $150 and a long days work.

Edit:
Actually, it'll be more than $150... I'll need new head bolts too. Ugh.

Anyone want to give me a nice birthday present?  :grumpy:

Balls!  I can definitely relate, the Mini had a warped block deck back in CA and it's taken me until now to get it sorted out. Mainly because at the same time I decided to have the thing bored +.020, but what's the point of a teardown if you don't build it back bigger right? :idea:

Anyway, here's how things sit with the engine right now. Fabbed a bracket to hold down the fuel rail, and I'm picking up the last of the fittings today. Still have to figure out where the regulator is gonna sit, probably near the radiator.

(http://miniman82.4t.com/car%20stuff/mini%20manifold/IMGP6121.JPG)
(http://miniman82.4t.com/car%20stuff/mini%20manifold/IMGP6122.JPG)
(http://miniman82.4t.com/car%20stuff/mini%20manifold/IMGP6123.JPG)

As you can see, the air filter just barely clears everything. And ignore the AN fittings going to a non-clamped hose, I was just using up what I have and it's only a breather line anyway. Spool gun I bought is definitely worth it's weight in gold on this project, welding aluminum is the shiz! Only thing left after this is finishing the hard lines and fitting an exhaust, then it gets fired off!

Looking good, that thing should have an awesome induction sound!

Probably about the same as with the Weber 45DCOE. :laugh:

Noise in this car in a fact of life, if it's not the intake it'll be the glasspack exhaust with Thrush turbo muffler.

True.... for some reason I thought the carb was smaller, like a 32 or something like that.
Hey, its a project car, wouldn't be much of one with out noise.

Well, so far the head gasket seems to be manageable as long as I keepthe revs low and out of boost.
I can't help but wonder what the head or block looks like where its leaking, probably my biggest worry is a huge gouge in the surface that I can't fill.
Obviously the best thing would be to deck the block and head, but I can't have that kind of down time or cost.

I guess I'll have to order the head bolts and a cosworth gasket, find a weekend to pull the head and find out.

You mean you don't have studs on it yet? I suppose this means the stockers are TTY? The stud kit is only $132 from ARP, seems like good value for money if you mess with the top end enough? Hope you're not having the issue I had with the Mini, I went through 3 head gaskets till I conceded that the block was warped between #2-3 cylinders. Best to fix it right at once, to avoid additional down time.

I was thinking of getting studs, they are pretty cheap, I'm kinda on the fence with them though.
Yea, the stock bolts are TTY, I reused them though since they've never been out before... I'll generally reuse a TTY bolt at least once, after that they're junk.

Nothing should be warped, it's never been over heated and everything was done by the book when I rebuilt it. I'm 90% sure it's just a junk gasket since it's only leaking coolant/compression and nothing more.
No coolant in oil or oil in coolant, it's just pushing compression into the cooling system when in boost.

The only other possibility would be the head lifted, but I'm fairly sure I would have WAY more issues than just loosing coolant/blowing coolant out.

Either way I have a straight edge and some feeler gauges that I'll check everything with when it's apart, especially around #3 and it's water jackets.
The thing I'm worried about is that there may be a path worn into the block or head where it's leaking, and I really can't afford to have things machined (and we don't have the correct tooling to do it at our shop), especially if it's the block that's fucked.

But I'm really betting on the gasket, it was a cheap-o supposed to be OEM gasket and just couldn't take it in that area.

Well, there's your problem. TTY bolts are only good once, then they are trash.

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html

Once they stretch, you're done. They won't hold a clamping force again, or if they do, not for long. My guess, you took a chance and lost out. Just get the stud kit, it'll save a lot of trouble down the road. I hadn't overheated the Mini either, and it still warped. Apparently it has something to do with the way water circulates around the block, it happens to a lot of the A series engines. I hope it was just the gasket too, but if you reused TTY bolts that's what I'm putting my money on.

I guess it's possible, though the factory manual states you can reuse them provided the length doesn't exceed the spec they give, they didn't when I checked them.

The light is tied into the excitation field circuit...

Who cares about the alternator, something tells me head gasket issues are higher in the food chain right now.

There's a separate wire that runs the field circuit, so I never thought much of it.

The car is still drivable, so the head gasket isn't a huge deal (yet), I don't have the money to fix it right now anyway... so no point in worrying about it now.

Gotta wait on the tax return... which will probably cover just this. Thanks Obama.

Made a wideband display, just a 120 volt rack pantaloons volt meter that I converted to run on 12 volts.
It's driven off the 2nd analog output on my wideband controller, which is scaled so the meter shows gas AFR.

seishuku on 10:28:06 PM / 18-May-13Made a wideband display, just a 120 volt rack pantaloons volt meter that I converted to run on 12 volts.
It's driven off the 2nd analog output on my wideband controller, which is scaled so the meter shows gas AFR.

Why that's a shocking autocorrect.

Get it? 120 volt pants? .....Nevermind

Actually that's one of the best pie-cut welded elbows I have ever seen, wow.

What blade are you using? I have a Miter saw, I don't see why I can't use that to do the same  if I install a proper metal cutting blade.

It's a 1/8" thick 14" dia. abrasive type metal blade.
It's almost this exact saw:


Edit:
Yay parts!

Post Merge

Stick a fork in me, I'm done.

Gotta wait until tomorrow to proof test everything, RTV/anaerobic is still setting.
On the plus side the coolant didn't pour out as I filled it, so that's a good sign. :lol:
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Now that all that's fixed, on to a new boost controller:



It's an SMC precision pressure regulator, VERY precise!
Bottom port on the wastegate is connected to boost source, as is the inlet on the regulator, then the outlet is connect to the top port on the WG.
The pressure differential from the regulator is basically adding more "spring pressure", downside is that the minimum boost is still spring pressure, but I could just toss the 2PSI spring (don't ask) in there and let the regulator adjust the whole thing.

I guess that regulator has too high of a pressure threshold to work the way I wanted, so I tossed that out.
Now I'm playing around with the apexi avcr that was in the beetle, its a pretty nice piece of electronics... Not worth the $600 price tag though IMO.

The sr is still pullin like a freight train though, 15psi on the t3 is nice... Boost kinda comes in later than I would really like though, maybe changing from the carbon seals to dynamic seals would help some. Oh well, that's what launch control and flat shift is for.

Man this boost controller is finicky... With just the bottom port being used on the wastegate, I get annoying boost spikes (way worse than what I see with a MBC) and I can't seem to "tune it out" like they say you can.
Then I switch to using both top and bottom ports, which is better, but while adjusting the controller I got 15PSI with a 62% duty, then it suddenly wants to drop back to 10PSI... WTF?
I didn't test it much past that, but I bumped the duty up to get 15PSI again, but if it starts boosting to 20PSI I think I might be going back to a manual controller.

I could probably get it to do what I want with the gear based boost control and per RPM mapping, but F THAT... Way too many settings to deal with, if I'm going to do that I'll just set up the boost solenoid on the MegaSquirt and let it do the controlling.

seishuku on 04:03:17 PM / 28-Jun-13Now I'm playing around with the apexi avcr that was in the beetle, its a pretty nice piece of electronics... Not worth the $600 price tag though IMO.

maybe changing from the carbon seals to dynamic seals would help some. Oh well, that's what launch control and flat shift is for.

I thought the Saab turbos had carbon seals like the dodge 2.2/2.5 turbos...

I do have RPM connected, but it seems it depends on RPM and wheel speed more than anything (for gear based boost), but I don't see how it incorporates TPS. On MegaSquirt its obvious in the DC and kpa target tables, because its pulled in an alpha-n manner.

I think I just need to up the feedback value and fine tune the DC, using both ports on the wastegate helped stabilize it, but I haven't seen if it falls off at high RPMs.

seishuku on 05:47:38 PM / 06-Jul-13Man this boost controller is finicky... With just the bottom port being used on the wastegate, I get annoying boost spikes (way worse than what I see with a MBC) and I can't seem to "tune it out" like they say you can. Then I switch to using both top and bottom ports, which is better, but while adjusting the controller I got 15PSI with a 62% duty, then it suddenly wants to drop back to 10PSI... WTF?

I could probably get it to do what I want with the gear based boost control and per RPM mapping, but F THAT... Way too many settings to deal with, if I'm going to do that I'll just set up the boost solenoid on the MegaSquirt and let it do the controlling.

seishuku on 09:03:52 PM / 07-Jul-13I thought the Saab turbos had carbon seals like the dodge 2.2/2.5 turbos...

I do have RPM connected, but it seems it depends on RPM and wheel speed more than anything (for gear based boost), but I don't see how it incorporates TPS. On MegaSquirt its obvious in the DC and kpa target tables, because its pulled in an alpha-n manner.

I think I just need to up the feedback value and fine tune the DC, using both ports on the wastegate helped stabilize it, but I haven't seen if it falls off at high RPMs.

I'll have to play with it some more I guess.

Cool on the turbo though, that should be pretty awesome on it.
What about a new MS kit?

Nothing yet, had to wait like 3 months to save up enough for the turbo. I guess if I have to I can bounce the MS I have between the Mini and the VW, they both have the same parts in them as far as the MS is concerned. Speaking of the Mini, I had to order a new crossmember because the old one was rotted beyond repair. It's the one that goes across the floor, the seats attach to it. Got the new one tacked in before I left the house, so at least I'll have something to sit on when I go to fire the motor. Nearly done with it by now, just have to put the finishing touches on the fuel system and hack together an exhaust.