Smog Equipment Removal

ok guys i have done this to my 240sx in the past with help from ka-t.org. heres the original thread for the ka24e motor- http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10789&start=0
so basically, now were making this thread over again for a vg30e! i know what i did to my other car, and what effects there was, but this is a different motor. so if you know something i dont, let me know.

now 1st off. the diagram picture i got from the service manual didnt have the charcoal canister on it, so i added it.

3. EGR control solenoid valve- if the EGR is gone, we shouldnt need this either. trash!

4. AIV, and its control solenoid valve- seems to be drawing some vaccum from the exhaust... but i dont think its needed. its one of the 1st things thrown out. as a matter of fact, i think i bought my s12 with this already missing. anyway, my KA24e runs fine without it

5. air flow meter (afm, mafs)- you need this, keep it lol

6. charcoal canister- funny, the FSM doesnt say anything about this or even show it. but my car certainly has one. i think its basically just where the gas tank draws vaccum from. if you take it out, just put the line from the tank somewhere safe?

7. head temp sensor- you need this. ECU makes decisions based on this reading.

8. fuel pressure regulator, and fuel temp sensor- holds your fuel injection system at the right pressure, keep it, and keep a good vaccum source going to it.

9. idle up solecnoid- stabilizes idle speed under electric load, powersteering, and things of this nature. if you dont keep it for the electronic idle control, you will want to keep it for the IDLE SCREW thats built into it. i am keeping mine for sure and suggest you do too.

10. air regulator- speeds up your idle when the engine is cold. has sort of like a thermostat type spring inside that opens an air passage when cold, and closes it when hot. its your choice. i think i may take mine out, but not sure yet.

so thats about it for now. ill post pics of my intake when i fix it up and put it back on. (probly wont be for a while lol)

and heres a pic just for a little extra help if you need it

sorry for my failing at using a scanner, haha  

and i forgot to add earlier, the vent tubes coming from the valve covers make your intake all cruddy as well.  when i took off my intake cover, there was 3 sections. the front part was clean. the part where the EGR connected was hard carbon build up like, and where the valve cover breathers go in it was straight up gooey crud from the oily air coming from the engine.  
i recommend disconnecting these from the intake. lots of people run them with just the mini air filters and that works fine. but the breathers are really designed for vaccum to pull the gases out. so the ideal setup would be both breathers going to a catch can, and then to a vaccum source. (this way you would still have vaccum to the breathers, and keep pretty much all of the crud from getting in the intake!
if you go the dragstrip youll see the crank case breathers going right to an angled entrance into the exhaust. this is a good way of getting vaccum, without introducing hot engine air to the motor. but thats not very feasible for our kind of cars, so we use the intake vaccum. then if your boosting, you get into all kinds of crazy ideas because under WOT you see boost, not vaccum

My EGR was stuck open so i trashed it and my car runs even better now....lol

ok so the egr is good to come off. now to figure out the rest of the junk.  

my girlfriend just bought a new digicam, so i will have to put some pics up to make it all clear for everyone. ...unless someone already has some clear VG engine pics for me to use

frosti108ok so the egr is good to come off. now to figure out the rest of the junk.

my girlfriend just bought a new digicam, so i will have to put some pics up to make it all clear for everyone. ...unless someone already has some clear VG engine pics for me to use

Ditto.

I assume a block off fitting can be put in. Is it similar to the CA and has another set of TB internally that can be removed?

no i dont think the VG has the internal butterfyl valves (thank god lol) although my KA motor did until i took them out

*pinned*

and lol @ the notchback with VG...

btw, you can put a couple sheets of blank paper between the one you're scanning and the other pages to cut down on that

2: I think keeps the vacuume of the regulator when cold for cold idle enrichment.

1; Some motors will not have correct timing if EGR is blocked, timing adjustment may be
  needed. Flame speed.

^ thanks dude. i added that stuff in.

and by the way all of these are pretty easy to remove, so anyone can really, but the AIV control solenoid and the main unit itself are under the brake fluid reservoir. i had to remove my piping to get to it, but someone else might find an easier. its out of the way to pulling it out can be a pain.

6. A.I.V. - a completely superfluous part.
(after much frustration scouring my 1988 service manual)
It seems it is equipped on the 1987 model but NOT the 1988
(also on 90-92 Z's but not (93+) This guy has excellent in depth write-ups on both this and the CC delete
http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html

You will need to remove the stock intake tubing or your CAI to access is, but after that it is held in by 4 screws and comes right out. Plug the bung on the exhaust (Z32 guys sell a plug on ebay but for $11) or crimp the line. Then seal the electrical connector with tape or whatnot.
The whole system weighs about 4lbs total and removing it makes access easier and the bay look cleaner.

4. Charcoal Canister - also pretty unecessary, very simple to remove, almost intuitive. Remove the three lines, plug up the two holes on the Throttle Body, and take out all the remaining hardline back to the bottom passenger side of the firewall, then put a windshield wiper nozzle in the end. this allows the fuel tank to still vent, albeit now directly into the atmosphere.

So All this Crap can go But How Dammit lol?