Car won't rev past 4500 rpms when not in gear, 2500 when in gear. Runs rough. Idles fine initially but when stopping at a light it chokes and nearly dies (but not quite).
My initial guess is maybe a MAF sensor based on my google research or perhaps a vaccum hose got knocked off. Anyone else ever have a similar issue? Anyone in the Bay Area of Norcal wanna help a brotha out so he can get his car outta Concord, CA where it is stranded (50mi from where I live)?
I Hate This F'ing Car Sometimes (more Issues)
i was having a simalar problem with my vg motor i changed out everything, sensors, coils but it was all for nothing. it turned out to be my timing belt, the vg motor is a interferance style so when the belt skiped all the valves got bent. don't know it its the same kind of problem or not, but its something to look in to, timing belts or chains tend to get overlooked
Anyone know how to upgrade to a z32 MAF and if its safe to run it w/o a tune? Is there a better substitute? Will a ca18et(s12 turbo) or ca18de(pulsar SE) MAF work?
The car will not run without a MAF.
You must run the MAF the ECU is tuned for.
Also, I believe the CA18ET MAF is the same, so try that.
thge bogging out part i dont know but i had a similar reving problem and it had to do with the distrubutor
Not exactly related to a CA18DET.
MAF doesn't seem to be the problem. I unplugged it and the car got way worse, so it seems that it is working. Any other ideas? I need help quick because my car just got broken into and some of my shit was stolen out of it and I can't move it home because concord is an hour away.
Also, I noticed that whenever the battery is on, the radiator fan seems to be coming on and something near the firewall clicks on. It killed my battery juice so I had to unplug it.
Also, I checked the timing belt and it looked fine (looks nearly new, no cracking or anything)
The car also has a distributor-less ignition system.
bump
What exactly did they steal from your car? If it ran fine before, then we just have to backtrack. If it was electronics related stuff look at grounds and bare 12v wires.
Nah, they stole my cell phone. All electronics (built in to the car) are still there.
Ah so the car always ran bad? Check your brake booster check valve. If you switched it or if it doesn't work right it'll affect how it runs. Who wired up the 18det and how did you do it? Check ECU grounds also.
Where is the brake booster check valve? The previous owner wired everthing up so I have no clue. Anyone local wanna help me out?
Also, it didn't always run bad, it ran fine (but a lil rich) until middle of last week when my roomate borrowed it. He was driving it and something popped, causing the weird electrical problems and the lack of power/ability to rev. We did just recently seafoam thru the brake booster hose, so that valve thingie might be it. However, I have no f'ing clue as to what or where that is.
It's on the firewall. Look at your brake booster and follow the thick hose. It's this little brass T. It's pretty obvious.
If it ran a little rich, it could be a number of things, since he probably didn't wire up everything right. Check to see if the knock sensor is wired up. Try reseting the ECU by unplugging the battery, pressing the brake pedal 3 times, then plugging it back in. That's all I can really help you with for now, since I suck at tech support haha. I'd have to actually look at it to troubleshoot. =(
Yeah, I've been trying to find someone local to go out there with me. No luck so far. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this shit, but man, this has not been a good learning experience.
how bout ignitior chip? My rb did the same thing, and I tried MAF Coils plugs vac leaks everything. basically under load it can not trigger the coilpack to fire a strong enough spark across the plug gap.
If your room mate heard something pop, I can almost guarantee you one of your intercooler pipings/couplings popped off.
No luck on any of this so far. All pipes and hoses SEEM to be fine but the car is really ghetto rigged. It might be an ignitor chip going out but I don't have much of a way to test that. Anyway, if anyone in NorCal or the bay area wants to help me or buy it super cheap, I'm getting very desperate.
Peacock @ Jun 9 2008, 05:04 AM
No luck on any of this so far. All pipes and hoses SEEM to be fine but the car is really ghetto rigged. It might be an ignitor chip going out but I don't have much of a way to test that. Anyway, if anyone in NorCal or the bay area wants to help me or buy it super cheap, I'm getting very desperate.
I might be able to help you out, I got your pm sorry not on here much anymore. I still have my 18det, there are some good points that people brought up on here. I would deffinetly take a real good look at your coplers that attach you piping together. I believe I have an extra IGNITOR and MAF as well so we can try that. And if all else fails I might be able to use my AAA to tow your car home. I work Monday through friday so weekends are the only time good for me. so possibly this weekend as in the 28th or 29th? I'll PM you me cell number, if I dont answer leave me a message.
Check and make sure your fuel system is working properly...
make sure it holds pressure in the fuel rail and doesnt bleed off too much, check when car off and fuel pump on, check when car is on....
not sure what you're supposed to be at but a fuel problem can easily cause this issue.
could be the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump..
Peacock @ May 29 2008, 09:07 PM
Anyone know how to upgrade to a z32 MAF and if its safe to run it w/o a tune? Is there a better substitute? Will a ca18et(s12 turbo) or ca18de(pulsar SE) MAF work?
u need a s-afc to do any hot wire maf swap
Like a couple of previous people said, if it was running okay before then something 'popped' I'd lean towards a vacuum leak also.
Check all IC connections first, (carefully), check for hose splits as well. Check all small vacuum lines etc. Sometimes hard to find.
If the leak is major it won't rev past a certain rpm usually 2000 to 3000RPM like described, it will bog down badly and have no power, you can usually hear an air sucking sound at this stage.
Also ruuning a little rich before. could have been a minor boost/vacuum leak.
So maybe where the minor leak was has now become a major leak??
Also disconnect the battery for half an hour as this will reset the ECU, if it has gone into limp mode, (limp mode = won't rev over 2500rpm).
Invest in some good hose clamps for IC connections, as in the bolt type, can't remember the correct terminology someone else will know.
If its not a boost leak then you have to consider electrical, I don't want to go into that now, as its a head f$%k.
Alrighty... thanks for all the suggestions :-) I've looked carefully at all of the IC piping and vaccum hoses and can't find anything, but I could just be blind (I do have a lazy eye). Hopefully, between me and Imadieros we can figure it out this weekend.
If you haven't fixed the problem yet try
the plugs on the injectors, check to make sure they is no corrosion.
I had the same problem and could hardly drive under any load conditions.
Stapes
The way its running the plugs will be all fouled up also, so remove them and clean them up. You'll have to keep doing this till you locate the problem as they will keep fouling up quickly and even if you find the problem it may not be apparent due to fouled lugs keeping it running like shit.