Se Lip Kit Installation

After much pain, sweat, tears and aggravation, cuSil4d came through so now, I have an SE lip kit! (with mud flaps) Yes, it did cost me........ cuSil4d, YDM!!!!!! (you da man!) THANK YOU cuSil4d FOR GETTING IT TO ME SO QUICKLY!!!!!

Could someone give me insight on installing it on my notch. The front lip only has a couple of small brackets. This is where I am confused.

The side is pretty straight forward. Do I need to drill holes in my rocker panels? Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated!

Rick

I NEED help. Not Deed help. Sorry

This post has been edited by Rick Wagoner: Nov 14 2008, 03:22 PM

You have to drill out all of the holes I believe. I never installed the skirts for that reason. PM Caraudiofoolery for tips on bracing the lip. If you do not brace it it will fold under and warp the lip.

thats the only sucky part of having an se with no skirts.holes doown theside of my under body.

yea just pm caraudiofoolery...he had an SE lip kit on his notch before

I was talking to Caraudio about this and he drilled holes into his rocker. The SE has nuts welded onto the rocker and the lip is held by screws that fasten into the nuts. Since you don't have those, you either have to use sheet metal screws(he recommended against this) or some kind of plastic clip/fastener. I remember on my friends WRX, their chassis had the holes pre-drilled, but with a plastic cap(for the super base model WRX). They just had to remove the cap and use the OEM Subaru plastic clips to mount the skirts. I haven't seen any WRX skirts on the freeway yet. Maybe you could try some of those or other factory cars with side skirts and see how they are mounted. If you have access to a welder though, I'd probably recommend you to do it like the SE and use the welded nuts to the rocker panel. That does require some work though. Best of luck and glad to see you got the kit off somebody else. Sorry I couldn't pull through.

This post has been edited by mod_mastaz: Nov 14 2008, 04:33 PM

What is the method that Andrew used on his notch? Clips? Welded on nuts? Andrew, chime in pls.

I personally don't see a problem with screws, I'll wait for Andrew's opinion on this, but after drilling a hole throw some silicone or RTV on the screw and in the hole before installing screw, this should seal the hole against moisture. You can also use silicone or sealer where the moldings contact the body on the edges, again, this will help it seal, but I wouldn't put it all over the bottom edge (so it drains). Rick, you don't drive the car in the winter, yes?

auto parts stores and even the home depot type places sell all kinds of auto fasteners that would work, and i like 200sxkitcars idea about silicon to help and prevent moisture. when i finally get around to replicating my lip kit for my racecar i plan to use dzus fasteners for easy removal, so i wont knock them off loading the car on the trailer.

when I installed a SE kit on a 85 hatch I used self tapping screws for the side skirts. the front lip I used nut/bolts where the original metal bracket would tie into the lip.

You only need about 4 screws per skirt and 4 nuts/bolt for the lip.

I didn't use any silicone to seal the holes but that would be a great idea since rotting rocker panels are no good at all.

the self tapping screws were very strong and passed the intentional/unintentional "kick test" many times

easiest way to mount the side skirts is to screw the skirt in with a middle hole then drill/attach out towards the fenders

This post has been edited by sicj: Nov 29 2008, 02:10 AM

zip screws and zip ties for a fast zippy install lolz.

wow im mentioned lol

um

for the skirts, i used self tapping screws, however, i dont know if i would trust them on a midwest car, or even a clean cali chassis, as the rockers are thin. next time around, ill be using the existing holes, but with the carpet removed, use the access holes inside to throw a nut on a machine screw, with lock washers, and locktite. as well as sealant, well, because im picky lol

as for the front lip, you can drill holes in the bumper and use some 12 or 14 mm nuts and bolts with large fender washers on both ends. locktite would be ideal in this case too, you could even fashion a plate out of thin gauge steet to sort of replicate the stock piece to distribute the load across the bumper, itll reduce the chance of tearing of the bumper.

then you can fashion a lip support kit to lift the skirt, as you likely dont have or dont want the stock hardware

Thanks All! I got the kit and am waiting after Christmas to get it painted. I will not be driving it in wet conditions, but I am going to silicone it. I have a few small cracks in the middle of the lip and one crack in the side skirt. Should I get these welded or just leave them?? I am going to get it professionally painted, so I thought that I should get these fixed. Any suggestions?