Dec 16, 2008, 3:28 am · #1
Does anyone happen to know the torque specs for the nuts on the exhaust manifold of a 1986 Nissan 200sx?
Exhaust
Dec 16, 2008, 3:50 am · #2
tight enough so they dont fall off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) . not sure on the exact figure, i just did as tight as i could with a ratchet...
if your really worried about it id check the FSM, you can get it HERE
Dec 16, 2008, 4:01 am · #3
i wouldnt go as tight as i could with a ratchet... i stripped one of mine... but made sure they were tight enough to not have the 1/4inch gap i had before i replaced the gasket...
Just good n snug.. u can kinda feel when enough is enough... trust me, one of the most PITA things to do is bust off one of them studs... althought there is more room and access on these than some vehicles...
i would guess around 45-65ft pnds but check FSM
Dec 16, 2008, 5:56 am · #4
dudewithcar, where are you located? please update your profile.
Dec 16, 2008, 7:40 pm · #5
NOT 45 ft lbs! Always look it up, thats quite a bit of force in an aluminum head!
14-22 ft lbs, I'd run on the low side, as they tend to strip. As you reinstall, I HIGHLY recommend replacing the studs if any came out with new longer ones, don't forget the anti-seize, and tap the holes deeper to accomodate. Don't be surprised if as you are tightening them down one or more studs doesn't strip, this happened to two of my remaining original studs, and my motor only has 40k mi on it!
Dec 17, 2008, 2:24 am · #6
200sxkitcar @ Dec 16 2008, 07:40 PM
NOT 45 ft lbs! Always look it up, thats quite a bit of force in an aluminum head!
14-22 ft lbs, I'd run on the low side, as they tend to strip. As you reinstall, I HIGHLY recommend replacing the studs if any came out with new longer ones, don't forget the anti-seize, and tap the holes deeper to accomodate. Don't be surprised if as you are tightening them down one or more studs doesn't strip, this happened to two of my remaining original studs, and my motor only has 40k mi on it!
it was just a roug guess.. lol. and 45ft pnds aint that much.. pretty much drop the ratchet and let it snug itself and give it another 1/3 of a turn or so... but lke i said, snug, so it feels tight, but not like its gpna twist apart...
and of course re-check em after its heated up and cooled down and rattled around a few times....
Dec 17, 2008, 2:47 am · #7
yeah, no big deal... point is, ALWAYS look it up before doing the work! We have a FSM for download here, it covers quite a bit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Dec 18, 2008, 3:57 am · #8
Aye, the FSM (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
THats te last thing i said, hehe.. "..but check FSM!"
I always forget about it personaly.. I search liek crazy through posts n stuff, then ask a question abotu it if i dont find what im looking for, then i get a bunch of, i think, but check the FSM, it can be downloaded.. "
Im always like ugh.. oh yeah, the FSM Duh!
Dec 18, 2008, 4:33 am · #9
I have several book versions, I love them very much. Always the first thing to check BEFORE going after a project, there may be a little tidbit or slice of knowledge that makes the job easier or a success.
Dec 18, 2008, 1:43 pm · #10
sterling, is right with 15-22 lbs, thats what the chiltons book said also, and to tighten starting from the inside bolts working your way out in a criss cross pattern, so it seals against the gasket evenly
Dec 18, 2008, 1:52 pm · #11
sinestro @ Dec 18 2008, 08:43 AM
sterling, is right with 15-22 lbs, thats what the chiltons book said also, and to tighten starting from the inside bolts working your way out in a criss cross pattern, so it seals against the gasket evenly
If you do not tighten this way it makes an arch which will lead to premature gasket failure or worse. For round bolt patterns always finger tight, then torque in a star pattern, for linear patterns finger tight and go from the center out.