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so ive got that v6 swapped coupe, c trans...
and it appears that there is trans fluid leaking out of the shifter.
i have an s13 ebay aftermarket shifter installed.
i also have an s13 isolator (accordion) boot keeping the trans fluid from going inside the car.
what exactly could be wrong? im seriously tempted to drain and refill, just to check if i put too much in...
any ideas? ill try to get pix tomorrow
Hard to overfill. Just remove the fill bung on the side. Proper level should be just up to the bottom of it.
The cheap ebay short throws leak all the time. The gears turning in your trans fling oil EVERYWHERE. Even all the way up and out of your shifter, especially when traveling over 35 mph.
Situation normal
Jay The cheap ebay short throws leak all the time. The gears turning in your trans fling oil EVERYWHERE. Even all the way up and out of your shifter, especially when traveling over 35 mph.
Situation normal
Ummm... The boot that you currently have, is it torn or split? Or did the shifter you get not come with a boot and no place for it.
When I'm saying boot, I'm referring to one that can be seen in the picture below.
Jay the shifter did not come with a boot and no place for it.
Use RTV on the mating surfaces of the transmission, and cut a small slit in the factory boot to slide it over that honkin chunk of metal. Between the two of those, your leaking will be drastically reduced, if not nothing. Just make sure after you cut that slit in the boot, that you ziptie it nice and tight to the shifter shaft, so it doesn't leave a gaping hole for it to slide into when you can't see it.
That is, If there is a place for the boot. Now if not? You might have to get creative with some epoxy and a big ball joint dust boot or something.
Jay Use RTV on the mating surfaces of the transmission, and cut a small slit in the factory boot to slide it over that honkin chunk of metal. Between the two of those, your leaking will be drastically reduced, if not nothing. Just make sure after you cut that slit in the boot, that you ziptie it nice and tight to the shifter shaft, so it doesn't leave a gaping hole for it to slide into when you can't see it.
That is, If there is a place for the boot. Now if not? You might have to get creative with some epoxy and a big ball joint dust boot or something.
rtv
looks like im going to try a tremec t5 boot later today, if that fails, ill be looking into a b&m knock off...
im baffled to why its leaking, i didnt run a boot on the black car when i ran this shifter and it didnt leak at all. hmmm
demonic s12looks like im going to try a tremec t5 boot later today, if that fails, ill be looking into a b&m knock off...Just installed mine today but engine cant and hasnt run yet. But I do want to prevent oil leakage so please update with what works/doesnt work
im baffled to why its leaking, i didnt run a boot on the black car when i ran this shifter and it didnt leak at all. hmmm
I just wanted to say this should not be considered as a permanent setup and it should be replaced with a real bushing later on down the road sometime. This was taken from Z31 performance.
$2 worth of electrical tape and 30 minutes later. no more clunk
when its not 18 degrees outside ill put in oem rubbers
the tape mod is pretty simple, there is an easy way and an eaier way.
1. Jack up the rear of the car. (you can remove the wheels, but it is not necessary)
2. place jack under rear crossmember, to hold tension (the rear shocks will prevent the rear end from falling)
3. remove the (2) 14mm bolts and the (1) 17mm bolts on each side of the rear crossmember.
4. loosen the (2) 14mm and (2) 17mm bolts holding the differential mount to the chassis, but do not remove them.
5. lower the jack 2 inches. take 1 roll of electrical tape, slice it in one spot so you can spread it open. pry down the front crossmember and spread the roll of electrical tape over the stud between the crosmember and the chassis. repeat process on other side.
6. jack rear suspension back up over the studs, reinstall all hardware.
now you have basically made a temporary rear crossmember bushing to eliminate that "clunk". some people go years like this, however i reccomend replacing the bushings eventually.
and i am now happy. not for the tape method, but for a decent write up of what to do to drop the subframe down.
I'll be dropping the rear subframe in its entirety on my Z31-T this winter. I'll take plenty of pics...
Who ever installs electrical tape to fix their rear subframe should drive their ride straight to the junkyard afterwards.... or enter it in a demolition derby.
BoostedVGWho ever installs electrical tape to fix their rear subframe should drive their ride straight to the junkyard afterwards.... or enter it in a demolition derby.+1. i wouldnt even drive that shit to the junkyard, tow maybe, but not drive.
Yeah, I don't think tape makes a very good bushing.
Poly FTW
you probably could spend a few cents more/less and shave a hockey puck down to fit. at least it wouldnt smash like a roll of tape lol
EDIT: if you were gonna run it in a derby lol you would want like 2 or 3 rolls to it raises the rear of the car up more so your bumper is higher than the front bumpers of the other cars so you hit the radiator. How do i know this? ive been in 3 different derbys. Dont worry, the flame suit is on. lol