maybe? its all adjustable, i can change the height of the pivot pin etc.
gonna have a shop weld fittings, OR find a hydrolic shop with other fittings. to adapt to my brake lines
pretty much free using parts around the garage. i think its worth a try.. if it doesnt work ill order a cnc brake
first off, Im not sure on that cylinder/MC setup itself.
I know ones for Hydro HB are a slight bit different than a typical master cylinder... something about keeping the fluid pressuring in the right direction.. kinda a check valve idea or something..
I dunno, its been a long while.
the second thing is, it could maybe be mounted a slight bit better..
I dont mean to critisize the work or nothing, it just looks like that seal on the front of the cylinder is a bit loose-ish, and could maybe be a bit snugger/ tighter to that bracket.. also, theres the groove on it that lookslike it should be mounted flush to it, along with the studs/bolts/nuts kinda thing...
Im too lazy to look and refresh my memory on it, and I could be all wrong.. hehe.. just something to note though...
beyond that, looks great!!! (I suspect you know what you're doing and what your working with though, so never mind my initial precautionary thoughts!)
And you dont need a spring to help return the handle..?? no.. never mind..
okay, forget everything I said.. lol.. other than it looks great!
what are the parts from? can you run the numbers kinda thing? I always thought it would be fun to have a hydro handbrake meself... lol
and oh.. for fittings/adapters, just ceck your local napa/parts stores... you're sure to find what you need.. no weldeing crap on n such...
that seal is sitting on the ridge, it should be fine
and the master cylinder, when you push it in. fluid goes in one side.. and comes out the other
im pretty much gonna remove the rear brake line from the s12 master cylinder, run a new line to this hyrdo e brake, and then all the way back to the fitting before the rubber hose before the axle under where the rear seats are
its not finished. im not sure if i need a spring... but stock brake pedals and clutch pedals do dont they? so im probally going to add one
i dont think stock ones do... the way pressure n all that works they more or less return on thier own.. thats why im not sure.. lol..
I dont recall any hydro lock e-brakes Ive seen having springs...
Im just concerned that it if it is a normal/stock type MC, it may cause problems with braking when in use/ in line... might need a sort of check valve in there to keep it from back feeding kinda thing.. im just not sure, and still too lazy to look for myself.. hehe..
I remeber looking into it and finding a setup/handbrake sylinder for just shy of 100$ I think it was... If I searched, I think theres a thread on it/regarding it.. lol
You are correct, no return spring needed. The brakes hydraulic pressure will take care of that. let off the tension of the handle, good to go. The only use the spring would have is to not have the handle flopping around while driving. Could be annoying, and possibly not where you reach for it. Any old carb throttle return spring should do the trick
As with any Hydro Ebrake that's in-line, you'll need a proper valve to prevent brake pressure binding, or brake lockup. I Forget where to get the valve is though.
you've got it pretty well covered, only thing I would change is the angle of the rod. Seeing as that's semi permanent because of the hole through the handle. Make the bolts going from the base to the pivot slightly longer (Like, an inch. So the rod is parallel when not actuated or pulled), and move the bolts closer to the cylinder, so it looks more like this
../
/_{=
EDIT! I'm guessing this is going on the passenger side floor area? High force, Easy maintenance, and if mounted at the proper angles, would be an ideal setup within easy reach!
What cylinder is that? I cant see the bottom as to if that's a hole for a resevoir. I have a design up that's pretty similar to this, but haven't made it myself :hehe: As I haven't found one. But I didn't look all that hard
i can always drill another hole, and raise the 2 brackets that hold the pin. there on threaded bolts so i can raise that pin up higher.
i checked it out, if i can remember when you pull the lever, the larger line pushes air and the smaller line does nothing.
then when you let go of the lever, the smaller line will suck air
when the lever isnt pulled. you can blow air through it
David Bi can always drill another hole, and raise the 2 brackets that hold the pin. there on threaded bolts so i can raise that pin up higher.
i checked it out, if i can remember when you pull the lever, the larger line pushes air and the smaller line does nothing.
then when you let go of the lever, the smaller line will suck air
when the lever isnt pulled. you can blow air through it
cool setups what master cylinder is that and such like part numbers and couldnt u just tap into ur master cylinder on the firewall and re route the back? i remember seeing that on a different site