Sr20det In A 84 200sx

Hey nissan guys we need some help. Im back in spokane and cant seem to get this car right. The car seems to be running to rich. As soon as it lifts off idle she spits and sputters at all rpms. I can crimp the fuel line and it seems to run smoother until it needs more fuel. We have 40psi fuel pressure at idle and jumps to 50+ as soon as we crack the throttle. The o2senser was damaged in shiping so it is bent a little but i dont think this is the problem can someone point us in the right direction Thanks

Hello i am the owner of the car.  Here is a full detailed discription of the problem.

Running condition: Hesitates during acceleration and has steady misfire. Just runs terrible.

The car seems to be getting too much fuel. When I pinch the fuel line the engine smooths out a little. And it seems to run a little better with no boost

Here is a complete list of things i have checked.

1. Plugs ngk temp 6 brand new
2. Tps is set perfectly
3. Injectors all work
4. fuel pressure is good
5. MAF if good
6. No vac leaks
7. Timing is perfect
8. ECU reads fine(No codes)
9. CAS is good
10. No smoke at all

I have looked all over this website and have found similer problems but nothing fixes it.

 

well...I'm not totally sure, but when I did my motor swap it was getting too much fuel as well and it was because the injectors were too large.

I'm not sure about the ecu you are using, or the injectors in the SR

but I was using an 88 Z31 ECU that ran 130CC injectors and the motor had 290CC injectors...so it ran horrible, like yours sounds like. maybe try confirming the injector ratings?

I have checked the injectors and they are the stock purple ones.
And i am running a stock 62 ECU.   I havn't had a chance to check to see if it has been tuned because nobody that i know of works on them where  i'm from.
 
I have checked all the parts on the motor and the only aftermarket piece is a hks wastegate.   But it is set way to high. It doesnt even open.   I need to get a stock actuator.

But that doesn't explain how rich it is.

Replace the O2 sensor to totally rule it out

gerrybgReplace the O2 sensor to totally rule it out

I orderd A new O2 sensor today but that couldn't cause that much of a problem could it?

Some wires could be broken internally and possibly giving a bad reading. In your case a lean reading and telling the comp. to dump more fuel.

Is your timing at +15 btdc? What are your spark plugs gapped to? Tried replacing fuel filter? I would suggest a fuel pump upgrade, double check your wiring, and what is the compression of all cylinders? ka24e maf or sr20det maf? Check for boost leaks?

Also, if you have an HKS adjustable wastegate; I haven't done it in a while but if you shorten the rod you lower your boost. You lengthen the rod, you raise boost.

What are the afr's under load?

i been searching for a t25G but have yet to buy on yet. i am looking at this turbo charger, is this the t25g

also will the damage on the wheel/nut effect the turbo, i saw a video of the wheel and it doesn't seem to have any shift play

here is a link to the picture of the turbo charger

T25 turbo

OK I got my new o2 sensor today and to my suprise it changend nothing!

so im still in the same place i have been.

And im getting too much fuel so I dont think I need a new fuel pump or filter. And I have tried to use both maf's.

And Yes that is how you adjust the wastegate but mine starts at 20psi.

And i have triple checked all my wiring.  
The only things I dont have conected is the speedo and the neutral switch.

And how do i check afr??   I currently dont have any gueges hooked up at all.

I seriously am about to give up. I have way too much time and money into this project.

mark

And how do i check afr??   I currently dont have any gueges hooked up at all.

It seems normal fuel pressure is around 36 psi so im pretty close to were i need to be.
Im low on cash for my project now so I can't just keep buying parts and not fixing the problem. Or I would just go but a new fpr. Is there any one near Spokane WA with an sr20?

Another thing I have noticed the last couple of days.
The fuel pressure goes all the way to 75+ psi with the throttle bairly cracked.

I have checked all my vac lines over and over but i can't find any problems at all.

I am open to any suggestions at all I have nothing but time on my hands to work on this car.

Thats kinda high.....if I remember correctly, my pressure drops when i crack the throttle, not raise.  Something doesn't sound right there

How long does your gauge read pressure after you shut off the engine?  Does it hold for a while, or drop to zero right away?

maybe a few hours i have never checked. but i know i can go look at it after a couple of days and it still say around 35 psi.

Your psi drops when you crack the throttle??

mine rises all the way untill full throttle.

And before you ask yes my fuel lines are correct

markmaybe a few hours i have never checked. but i know i can go look at it after a couple of days and it still say around 35 psi.

Your psi drops when you crack the throttle??

mine rises all the way untill full throttle.

And before you ask yes my fuel lines are correct

KeithYeah....mine drops, as I blip the throttle, I'm almost positive.  I'll double check tomorrow

What is your full throttle fuel psi?

This car is so stupid!!

I have gone over the entire car today and everything is in proper working order.
every sensor timing  everthing    

but still runs like crap

Okay, so there was nothing pinned and I went through abunch of swap threads that didnt say much specific but some did, I just need a little clarification.

Am I missing anything? Do these all have to be S13 240sx parts or is it easiest?

-S13 240sx SS Clutch Hardline
-Shifter boot (or complete center console)
-Custom transmission mounts & crossmember
-Clutch pedal and bracket
-Brake pedal and bracket
-Clutch master cylinder
-Clutch slave cylinder
-Clutch Soft Lines
-Clutch Damper box
-Shifter linkage and knob
-Driveshaft (front half at least)
-S13 240sx engine mounts

Don't need an SR specific sticky, the KA24DE is the same swap, except for the added turbo and related piping.

MK2 (86.5-88) S12's shouldn't need a modified trans mount, and for auto to manual parts, I would try to stay with OEM S12 items.

Clutch master and slave cylinders are cheap, use S13 items. I personally use an S12 master with an S13 slave, but the master doesn't matter, they're both 5/8" bore.

David B-Shifter linkage and knob--------wut. BUT, you will have  to cut a section out for your longer transmission

seishukuDon't need an SR specific sticky, the KA24DE is the same swap, except for the added turbo and related piping.

MK2 (86.5-88) S12's shouldn't need a modified trans mount, and for auto to manual parts, I would try to stay with OEM S12 items.

Clutch master and slave cylinders are cheap, use S13 items. I personally use an S12 master with an S13 slave, but the master doesn't matter, they're both 5/8" bore.

Delete this double post

XenoVibeSo the automatic crossmember will work with an SR20 manual?

seishukuI think the cross member is the same, but the rubber isolator is different. It's been a long time since I've looked at an auto.