Mysterrious Bogging On Cold Start

Ive scoured the entire forum as best I can with the search feature to figure this out.

When cold starting my car it starts fine and idles great, but wont rev to save my live unless i give it full throttle and wait a few seconds before it stops bogging and seems to catch on allowing me to rev is up and get the car moving faster instead of letting it run a few minutes.  Once it responds properly to allow me to drive the car it still bogs for a few minutes till warmed up.  It runs normally once boost hits at 4k-ish.  Then after the few minutes are up of warming up it seems to run great.  Although it seems like it might lack some getup and go in the lower rpm till boost (or something) hits hard at 4k.

Only mods to the car is the t25 with adjustable wastegate.  wastegate is probably irrelevant since I havnt removed the popup valve.This is on the same car that was converted to na before I got it, timed all weird etc.  I swear I got the timing down perfect.  Ive done it so many times lol.  But why I have this bogging issue I do not know.  

Anyone encounter this or know what can cause something like this?

I have incountered the boggin till boost kicks Check the dizzy it may be off a tooth if you advance it a lil the prob will go away. (that was my expeience anyway) as far as your cold start problem try changing you cts (coolant temp sensor) also check the codes on the ecu alot of people forget that our ecu has a diagnostic mode and go about checkin a replacing stuff they didn't need to lol .

I checked the ecu for codes already and it just tells me soemthing aobut the AC.  not my concern at the moment.

I replaced the water temp sensor with a brand new one when I got the car.  Unless there is one more...  Just to ask whats the sensor next to the water temp?  looks a lot like it.

Ive wondered if my coils are mixed up.  Like which coil is for the exhaust plugs, which is for intake?  Dont know if this is a dumb question: Does the coil need to be grounded? like when its bolted in its grounded.

I might try the tooth advancement

Do you have continuity between pins of the idle regulator?

Checked it and its fine. baaaah

This is killing me.  I cant buy the other s12 until I get this one running properly.  Dont want a mountain of work on so many cars at once

The other sensor next to the water pump is the

Auxiliary air valve/idle control valve/IAC (idle air control valve)

Take your pick. Its a thermo-something-something. The sensor just picks up the position of the opening. To check it, warm up the engine, then pull off the IAC and throw it in the freezer for five minutes. If the gap closes up it's working properly. If it's sending the proper signal is another story.

I have the same problem you have. Can't figure it out either. Drving me nuts...

I can somewhat second the idea of the mAF being bad b/c I swtiched mine out and the problem started soon after that. The one I had in prior was worse (wouldn't let the car rev past 2000 rpm-sent it into limp home mode or something). When I put in the new(er)one, it bogs on cold start, but after like 30 seconds the problem goes away.

The only problem is new ones cost like 4 bills, and you always run the risk of getting another crap one from the wreckers.

Unfortunately i am THE ONLY one in the area with a running s12 turbo lol. 

I noticed that the car started up jsut fine for a while but wasnt boosting.  The wastegate actuator arm popped off the gate so the car wasnt boosting at all but started jsut fine.  I hooked the arm back up but had the start up issues again... wtf