85 nisssan 200sx 1.8L turbo major problem dont no what it is.

ive been putting up topics for this car twice already still no progress. im starting to get fustrated. my nissan doesnt start it only turns the engine. i thought it had to do with fuel so i checked the fuel pump low psi so i bought a new one and now its is the right psi. so i turned swich on and off so the fuel pump can get gas then i tried starting it but no luck still doesnt start. i thought i had to put starting fluid so it would stay on and filter though but it goes off in like 5 seconds. we tried starting it and it kept backfiring. um wen it doest start i would push the throttle and it would choke and cut off air but wen i push it just a little bit it reves up but starts chokin after like 2000 rpm i dont no what it is please give me some solutions i really want to get this car started but rite now i dont no what it could be.

check:
Maf
timing
and distributor

The back firing sounds like timing the choking at 2k sounds like maf and the not starting could be cap and rotor also check the codes on your ecu....good luck

Ahh, the wonderful world of diagnosing ca18et preoblems.

I had to sleep in my car one night before work in the freezing cold in the middle of January, because my dizzy was shot, while I had a bad coolant temp sensor. Anyways, I was going to recommend the same things as sideways_s12

ok i tried messing with the maf and no good so i cleaned the cap to the distributer and that was no good either checked the timing and it was good 2 so ah the ecu code i wont no how to check that

it's under thr driverside kick panel there's directions on the side on how to do it and a glossary for the codes on the back that will tell you whats what and just because you messed with the maf doesn't mean it's not bad you have to check it with a known good maf if the problem is the same then the maf is not your problem

i think that the maf was bad because wen i losen it and move it up and down the car starts but wen i leave it alone the car dies

it shouldn't die at all with the maf you can unhook the maf and the car will still run it just won't rev past 2k (limp mode)

well then i dont no cuz thats the only way it starts so

how the electrical connection to the maf and other stuff

well all the other stuff are good ah like i said the injectors work fine but i dont think its the connection how would i b able to check the ecu for codes

The ecu is under the driverside kickpanel and it's 3 screws when it drops down it'll tell you how to read the codes...

yea but i have to connect it to that diagnostic computer thing rite haha this makes me sound dumb

No you don't you just have to turn the screw and the lights will blink

maybe your distributor gear isn't set in the right place i.e. your timing is waaay out. to check take out exhaust side spark plug of number 1 cylinder and turn engine with a wrench on the pulley bolt (make sure ignition is off or take keys out all together), put your finger over the spark plug hole and turn engine until u feel compression under your finger, when the pressure stops your at top dead center. back it off so that the timing mark lines up with the pointer. now take off distributor cap and check if the outer rotor is lining up with the I1 contact on distributor cap. if not u need to unbolt the distributor, pull it out and turn the shaft so the rotor contact lines up with I1, then bolt distributor back on finger tight, put cap back on, spark plug back in and reconnect all wiring. set the timing with a timing light at 15 deg BTDC and tighten distributor bolts. I made the mistake of pulling the distributor out not realising it had to be lined up in the exact position so had to do all this. Also your crank angle sensor could be dodgy, to check take distributor cap off take note of what position the distributor rotor is in i.e. mark the rotor and the housing so u can line them back up. remove distributor from head put cap back on and leave wiring plugged in, disconnect coil HT leads from distributor leaving them plugged onto coils, tuck the ends of the leads under something so they're within 20mm of car body now turn distributor gear by hand do not hang onto coil leads. if crank angle sensor is working u will hear and see the coil leads arc-ing to ground. 
Your ECU can give u an idea of whats wrong but if u get code 31-ECM its anyones guess what the problem is. u also only get a code if something is working out of the tolerable range however if something is within the tolerable range but far enough out not to work properly the ECU won't tell you.
8 plug systems are a cunt of an idea, big thumbs down for that idea nissan.