SRA Trailing arm bushing ideas?

I cant find this info any where and i cant buy a a service and repair manual cuz i start work monday and i need my car before then. My Car Is a 1984 200sx
so can someone help me Sad Face.

The ring gear to drive pinion backlash for the H-190 is 0.15 to 0.20mm or 0.0059 to 0.0079 inch. As for the torque down.... that's to vague as there are lots of things that are torqued down on the diff. from the drive pinion bolt to the oil drain and filler plug.

i put it bak together alrdy  torgued down the 4 bolts on the diff to 40ft and im guessing my backlash is around 23 wit the tiny tiny play it gots.  but im nt sure something is making a clicking noise when i speed up then put the tranny in netural and let it coast to a stop. i lookd around on the internet for clicking noise im guessing its the wheel bearings they mite neeed broken in im gonna drive it today and c if it stops if nt im gonna try packing some grease in the wheel bearings.

When taking apart did you mark the bearings and their locations? If replacing bearings the diff should be set up properly to get the correct back lash. The side bearing cap bolts are 30-36 ft lbs. I guess 40 will be OK.

The ring gear to drive pinion backlash for the H-190 is 0.15 to 0.20mm or 0.0059 to 0.0079 inch. NOT "I'm guessing 23". If this isn't taken seriously, next time you change the oil because of that growling sound next spring, it will look like aluminum paint

My lowers are shot. I'm pretty sure i have to burn them out but no idea what to replace them with...

I know Technotoytunning can make us some but IMO they are a little overpriced especially now that i got a new job and am relocating. (time and money)

And ideas on somthing that can be fabbed up pretty easily?

Also does anyone have the demensions on the hole once the bushing has been removed?

no i didnt mark the bearings lolololol omg im just learning the hard way now ainte i......im goin to break it down again some time soon and shim out the backlash it should  last me a few hunderend miles witout hurting it i hope  lol and buying the shims takes for ever cuz i got to locate them sad face from different dealer ships around the usa.. i would of put it together the right way if i didnt need the car so bad for work...one of my buddies has a backlash dial or w/e. ill check the oil tomorrow and c wut it looks like if theres to much shit on the drain plug ill park it and ask one of my buddies if i can use his car to get around. ill keep u updated.

I found out wut is wrong wit i gotta shim the left side of the diff so the pinion and ring gear meet up more. and it should be 100% rdy to go and last me another 26 years i hope.

Bump?

All i really need are the dimensions of the hole once the bushing hase be removed. (diameter and width)

u can measure once its removed

I don't have a daily... I can make a custom set on my own time, just need the dimensions so I can slap it together within a day. Figured someone on here is ahead of the game and has already done this.

Sorry, don't know the bushing OD.

I can't remember which side has the bushing.

If it's the links, SCP will cut and thread a rod for end links any size you want. You'll just need the stepped bushings in the end link and to drill your metric holes to the next larger standard size. If I remember correctly, the inner triangulated links aren't to the cast housing, which creates a slew of mono-ball problems(custom machined collars with clips)

If it's in the housing part; http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp3.htm
Same with the redrill to standard bolts.

That's my suggestion anyway. If I still had my SRA, I'da do it.

I'm not pushing SCP. Lefthander and a slew of other companys will work. Just can't beat the domestic stuff for modding chassis. Dirt track guys won't pay what import guys will to get the same job done. Just gotta weld and learn fractions and LBs vs Metric and KGs.

Also; they're noisy, but uncompromising in geometry.

Wow JonB thats awsome I might go and do that. Thanks