vg30 doesn't run right

Hola, I've got a 88' vg30e s12 hatch and I'm not quite sure what's wrong with it. Here's a few pics to start,

  and figured it'd make a nice daily

I've left the car parked for about a good week, walk out fire it up and drive it around for about 5 minutes with no issues at all, no miss or anything. The water temp gauge seems to work fine, it goes up to normal, doesn't spike or do weird stuff. The oil pressure gauge works when it wants to and the fuel level is the same.

So I took a short video of it running, you can see the hesitation/bogging out. I unplugged various things and nothing really seemed to make a huge difference, even the tps didn't seem to do much, so I'm wondering if that's a culprit. Check out the vid and let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks much and have a good 3 day weekend!

(the link)
http://s1030.photobucket.com/albums/y369/D...;current=-1.flv

Well, first things first, need to edit your account and change your location so we can see where you hail from.

Asides from that, not quite sure if that's a tps problem. Have you tried adjusting it? Don't know your automotive experience but its quite simple to do. Lossen the screws and fiddle with it! Lol. Anyways, sounds somewhat similar to when I swapped over a ka24 tb but easy to figure out if its the tps. Either runs good or shitty. Check vacuum lines, whether or not there's enought fuel to the system, and eletrical?  Honestly, could be a variety of problems. Just have to work at what's not the problem and then move from there. And then make sure that you say what you have tried so we don't tell you to do something that you have already tried.

Best of luck man. Keep up us updated.

,,are any trouble codes being stored in the ECU checker??..o2 flashing correctly?

mc,,are any trouble codes being stored in the ECU checker??..o2 flashing correctly?

firefox+1
check the intake accordion pipe that's right after the maf

mine was barley cracked and had similar problems
also wheres your SE hood, steering wheel and bumper?

I'll play with the tps a bit when it quits raining lol, I'm out of WA.

I've built quite a few 240sx's but the vg was something I hadn't played with too much yet.

I did pull the fuel pump and it looks to have already been replaced, the person before me had some work done, including a new distributor and maf.

I'm going to try and run it now that it's sat overnight, it seems to only have it's issue when it's warmed up fully, so that's why I'm thinking coolant temp sensor.

Must not really be the tps then, it has hesitation and has no power. It's so bad that it won't build enough power to move it on flat ground really. The odd part is that when it's cold it will drive around just fine lol.

Thanks for the ideas, I'm going to keep plugging away at it.

It sounds like what my car does with the MAF unplugged. It could also be a vacuum leak some where throwing the MAF readings off.

So, any updates? Kinda curious to see if you found out what the issue was, if found out yet.

Sounds like a post maf air leak. or vaccum lines. When your TPS goes, you will be able to drive normally up until about 2300 rpm then it will cut out. That's what mine was doing last weekend. Got it fixed. Turns out the ka24de TPS is the same so I jacked one from the yard for free about to wire it up and try it.

its your cylinder head temp sensor

runs good cold..  runs bad when warmed

MaxpowSounds like a post maf air leak. or vaccum lines. When your TPS goes, you will be able to drive normally up until about 2300 rpm then it will cut out. That's what mine was doing last weekend. Got it fixed. Turns out the ka24de TPS is the same so I jacked one from the yard for free about to wire it up and try it.

BoostedVGIt sounds like what my car does with the MAF unplugged. It could also be a vacuum leak some where throwing the MAF readings off.

Wolf DilworthI second this.  TPS on the VG is just on or off signal, not very likely that an adjust will change much.

after owning the car for many years, it still doesn't run right.

sometimes it runs great. but then other times it starts stalling out, gets crazy missfiring and hesitation. popping idle and stumbling and stalling.

 i unplugged the mafs and all of a sudden it idles perfectly around 1000rpm with no problems. only problem is if i try to drive with the mafs unplugged, i cant rev above 2100.

would this mean the mafs is bad?

that would be my guess. possible that the maf sensor has gone a little wonky or the pins could be corroded...did you try cleaning the plugs to see if that fixes anything?

Seems to be a big problem with these engines. Mine does' the same. Clean all plugs and make sure all vacuum lines are good (not factory, hard, corroded). I unplugged my MAF and the car ran the same (like shit). I replaced the 02 Sensor as well, and suggest you do the same. My CAT was factory and completely clogged, so I replaced that. The problem is that with this kind of issue, it can be 20 different things  yelling They all act the same with messing up the Air/fuel ratio. Put in some Seafoam or injector cleaner as well. A sticky injector (or one on it's way out) acts the same. Swap out Coolant Temp. Sensor, because if it is out, the computer will go into limp mode and make the car run rich to protect itself (and stutter and cut out) I'll let you know if I solve my cars' issue, and what the next step you should take  nerdystraight Or vice-versa  grinwink

Dude the problem you described is MAF maf and Maf. If you can even make the car move with the maf unplugged you need a maf.

Under normal conditions car should start with the maf unplugged but not be able to rev, if it can rev at all your maf is toast.

Look at your TPS connection, if its all corroded and fucked up that could be your problem too, I've had about 3 of them bastards rot out because the connectors turn green and dusty.

I would try cleaning maf, cleaning maf connector and replugging, or just tapping the maf with a screwdriver to see if it makes a change in RPM at idle, if it does replace that bitch.

Yeah, I got a unit off a member's part out. New MAF will run you between $200-$400 (depending on connections). Use some MAF cleaner on it and Electrical Plug cleaner on the plug connection. Also, don't forget that there is a vacuum line of sorts that goes into the bottom of the Air Filter box. Make sure that is plugged in. It is most likely the MAF, but I'd highly suggest replacing the parts I mentioned, just to make sure and check them off the list. Most of the hoses, exhaust, and sensors are all Original, and it just makes sense to swap them out after so many miles. MAXPOW also suggested to clean the TPS plug  idea Just unplug all the connections you see, spray them with the cleaner, and plug back in.

Easiest way is to find an 86 Maf and Ecu from a z31. Everything else will be the same.

i put in a new temp sensor. all connections are clean. there is no cat or cat back connected (lol)
could be sticky injectors or something, although the fuel system recall was done to it before i got the car...

i have an apexi afc neo. maybe if i can wire that up to the car, ill be able to run a j30 mafs or something like that that is super cheap and easy to get from the junk yard. because god knows i wont find an se-v6 200sx mafs at the junkyard anytime soon and im def not spending 200+ dollars on a new one

I would also a exhaust, as cars need a certain amount of back pressure to run well  grinwink

Good Deal!  cry2 Just got a MAF from Auto Zone for $123 w/ $60 CORE (1 year warranty). This is A LOT cheaper than my uncle quoted me at from NAPA. Go get one! I'll let ya know if this doe's the trick  yes

I got a new maf, still didn't change it. Its not always the maf but if this guy is removing the maf and its getting better probably the maf.

It has lasted a week with the remanufactured MAF. Seems to be the deal.

So did (MAF Sensor) this fix the problem?  My had a problem that the car would cut out (tach goes to zero) intermittently. I found that the distributor module was bad. got a replacement at the junk yard for 5 buck and haven't had a problem since.

It could be a bad distributor module. This will cause the car to  shutdown and hesitate. got one module from junk yard and this took care of my hesitation problem. Was very intermittent and was a bitch to find. Easy to replace the electronic module in the dist. however. Might be worth a shot

Yeah, my car's issue was the MAF.

Do you have papers showing the MAF is new? That's what my car needed and it acted the same way. I also replaced the majority of vacuum lines that were hard as rocks and about to leak. My coolant gauge goes up to 3/4  huh not half. Thought that was strange, but the car runs fine.