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Sputter problem.......... FIXED

Started by hostile s12 · Dec 18, 2010 · 22postsSMF 2010–26

hostile s12Dec 18, 2010, 3:16 am · #1

Ok heres what it dose, when i roll on the throttle easy it pulls fine but when i floor it it sputters and cuts out. I putt my timing to 15 and still dose it, but when i advance it all the way it pulls hard and boosts up fine but idles really high, i advanced it a little more than 15 and it pulls hard in 1st floored then sputters in 2nd, floored. Im running a sr20 t25 on stock boost.

ProlowtoneDec 18, 2010, 1:40 pm · #2

hmmm. almost sounds like a faulty tps? Might want to wait for another member to chime in with a response before you go buying stuff

hostile s12Dec 18, 2010, 6:05 pm · #3

I tried a different ecu today did the same thing i also tried a different CAS and it didnt change anything, i think its TPS or MAF how do you test a tps and is there a maf that will work from a different motor.

hostile s12Dec 20, 2010, 1:54 am · #4

Forgot to say that my ecu isn't throwing a code, and when i start my car cold it idles down then dies but if i give it some gas for a sec it will idle on its own. Also its doing this weird thing where it will idle at like 1k when warmed up but after i drive it around for 10min or so it will idle at like 2,5k then after drive it some more it will idle at 1,5k, it just keeps fluxuating idles.

Im about to hold this thing at rev limiter tell she blows!

SlickS12Dec 20, 2010, 5:24 am · #5

Not the same motor, but my vg is having a problem with the same symptoms as this.  It has a sort-of normal function, then out of nowhere it will bogg really hard.  Try to give it gas and it just boggs more.

I can trick it a little, if I need to while driving, by turning the car on and off again.  But it ultimately comes back..

In the morning Im going to check the MAF using this method:

http://www.ehow.com/how_6146478_check-flow-sensor-1984-300zx.html
 
Then if that doesnt pan anything out the TPS is getting replaced.

Please update us on this!


Post Merge: 05:26:56 AM / 20-Dec-10
hostile s12 on 01:54:54 AM / 20-Dec-10Im about to hold this thing at rev limiter tell she blows!

Noooooes!

Dont do that.  9/10 times is something obvious or dumb that got overlooked.
StephenGDec 20, 2010, 6:49 am · #6

Check your vacuum lines. Its gotta be something simple.

CandellanDec 20, 2010, 2:54 pm · #7

That sounds like what I had on the Big Block CA. Add extra earths to your coilpacks & run them back to the plenum chamber where the 2 loom earths are. It makes a noticable difference on a working car as well. I ended up frying my AVC-R becuase the coils earthed through it because of the bad connection they had (an expensive lesson learnt there).

hostile s12Dec 21, 2010, 7:22 pm · #8
Candellan on 02:54:41 PM / 20-Dec-10That sounds like what I had on the Big Block CA. Add extra earths to your coilpacks & run them back to the plenum chamber where the 2 loom earths are. It makes a noticable difference on a working car as well. I ended up frying my AVC-R becuase the coils earthed through it because of the bad connection they had (an expensive lesson learnt there).
I tried this today and didn't fix my sputter problem, thanks tho.

I found out that my MAF is a ca18de one from a pulsar idk if that would cause my problem but i don't think it would.
The big thing is why dose it cut out when at 15btdc why dose it run fine with my timing advanced all the way?
I'm kinda thinking im getting to much fuel i have a 255 walbro fuel pump with a stock FPR it seems like it just drowning out the motor unless the timing is advanced all the way, but im not blowing out smoke or anything and it doesn't seem like its running rich.

Any ideas
hostile s12Dec 26, 2010, 11:45 pm · #9

Still haven't figured this out i messed with the TPS (nothing), unplugged knock sensor (nothing) except throw the code, unplugged o2 didn't change anything and (didn't throw a code?), checked intercooler piping and is all good, still waiting on a FPR anyone have any input. Im about to run it with the timing advanced all the way and say F it.

DeezusDec 27, 2010, 6:59 am · #10

My dohc ka did the exact same thing, but i never fixed it.

I have a vid, ill update this post once i find it.

EDIT: Got it, tell me if this is what its doing. If it is, then its prolly something the CA, VG, KA all have in common.

http://vimeo.com/9743360

Ignore my voice, i had a cold lol, and no my throttle cable wasnt unhooked like i said.

SlickS12Dec 28, 2010, 3:49 am · #11

Disconnect o2 sensor and take it for a drive.  Worth a try.  Mine almost wouldn't drive, now it's running OK after I disconnected it.

hostile s12Jan 6, 2011, 1:27 am · #12
Deezus on 06:59:38 AM / 27-Dec-10My dohc ka did the exact same thing, but i never fixed it.

I have a vid, ill update this post once i find it.

EDIT: Got it, tell me if this is what its doing. If it is, then its prolly something the CA, VG, KA all have in common.

http://vimeo.com/9743360

Ignore my voice, i had a cold lol, and no my throttle cable wasnt unhooked like i said.

No mine revs up just fine when its not moving it only sputters under a load.


Post Merge: [time]07:30:37 AM / 06-Jan-11 [/time]
SlickS12 on 03:49:06 AM / 28-Dec-10Disconnect o2 sensor and take it for a drive.  Worth a try.  Mine almost wouldn't drive, now it's running OK after I disconnected it. 

I disconnected the o2 and it still sputters, and it didn't throw a code when the o2 was disconnected.

Post Merge: 01:38:25 AM / 06-Jan-11
Put on my Fuel pressure regulator today, and set my fuel pressure at 36psi, put my timing at 15 and it still sputters.
Set my FP to 28 with timing at 15 still sputters at full throttle under a load, then tried it at 45 FP same sputtering problem. I really want to get this fixed.

So you guys got any ideas
ProlowtoneJan 6, 2011, 1:15 pm · #13

Have you done a compression test? It could be something stupid simple like a fouled plug or bad spark plug wire. Try new spark plugs, cheep and easy to do. 

Do you feel it when the car sputters or can you just hear it?

hostile s12Jan 7, 2011, 12:12 am · #14
Prolowtone on 01:15:57 PM / 06-Jan-11Have you done a compression test? It could be something stupid simple like a fouled plug or bad spark plug wire. Try new spark plugs, cheep and easy to do. 

Do you feel it when the car sputters or can you just hear it?

Compression is good on all 4, i ordered some colder plugs but they wont be in tell Sat. ill let you know what they do.

I can fell and hear the sputter, it still spines through second but it hesitates really bad and dosnt want to boost up fully and only at wide open throttle, i can roll on the throttle and it will boost up fine. when i advance the timing all the way it pulls hard and ripes through gears, but i really dont want to keep my timing advanced so much all the time.

I tried a different drop resistor today - nothing
I tried a different MAF, #22680-18f00 i think its a ca18et one not shore - nothing tho
I unplugged my TPS then drove it, helped a little not much - maybe something?
hostile s12Jan 10, 2011, 12:24 am · #15

Fixed- it was a bad o2, i put in a new ca18et one and it fixed all my problems.

Thanks for all the help guys.

KeithJan 12, 2011, 1:19 am · #16

is your engine JDM or Euro?  Timing for JDM is 10 degrees.  Euro is 15 degrees

hostile s12Jan 13, 2011, 8:14 pm · #17
Keith on 01:19:04 AM / 12-Jan-11is your engine JDM or Euro?  Timing for JDM is 10 degrees.  Euro is 15 degrees

Its JDM
newby200sxJul 18, 2011, 4:03 am · #18

hey hostile question it seems like my cadet swap is doing the same as your was, i have the sr t25 turbo i just dnt know what dump tube i have i took off the old o2 sensor and it was small compared to the ca18et one the caet o2 is alot bigger than the one i took out bro i bought a new caet o2 from a 1984 caet, does that make a difference? i am so lost dude

this is what it does i turn it on it runs rich and it wont idle it kinda wants to after i rev it a lil than it dies,
it wont rev just a lil but barely not enough to build boost and let the bov whistle lol

ive wanted to give up so many times i just know it will be worth it in the end
i would appreciate the help guys
its a stock cadet sr t25 turbo, 255 walbro hks ssqv
singl cam KAE MAF done by previous owner

idk wtf!

DeezusJul 18, 2011, 6:16 am · #19

^
idk, but a KAE maf could throw off your motor, ive never done it but a ive seen people putting z32 mafs on KAs and SRs without tuning for them, and they made the motor run like poop.

newby200sxJul 18, 2011, 2:02 pm · #20

damn man well idk what to do man i cant find a cadet maf at all dude,


Post Merge: 08:05:23 PM / 18-Jul-11
help!
hostile s12Oct 20, 2011, 10:01 pm · #21
Deezus on 06:16:15 AM / 18-Jul-11^
idk, but a KAE maf could throw off your motor, ive never done it but a ive seen people putting z32 mafs on KAs and SRs without tuning for them, and they made the motor run like poop.


Hey sorry for the late reply i haven't been on here in a while.

My problem was a bad coil pack #3, it was fine when cold but as soon as the coil pack warmed up it would cut out under a load.

It sounds like your having maf or timing problems, you can run a KAE maf and it will run right if wired in right, it will just hit fuel cut at like 8-10psi.

Also you should get a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, running a 255 can be to much for the stock regulator and cause you to run rich.

Post Merge: 10:04:38 PM / 20-Oct-11
Deezus on 06:16:15 AM / 18-Jul-11^
idk, but a KAE maf could throw off your motor, ive never done it but a ive seen people putting z32 mafs on KAs and SRs without tuning for them, and they made the motor run like poop.


If running a z32 you need a safc or a tune
SchizophrenicMCOct 20, 2011, 10:29 pm · #22

Hostile, I ended up picking Newby's car and engine up. Problem was the MAF wasn't wired in right. I'm still getting the wiring put back together (and I plan on re-ROMing the ECU myself, to use the KA-E voltage tables) so I haven't tested the MAF, itself, but once I get the harness back on the engine, I'll know for sure.

I'll see about that fuel regulator, though.