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87 200sx SE VG NO FIRE ISSUE...

Started by Spec-bre · Apr 6, 2012 · 19postsSMF 2010–26

Spec-breApr 6, 2012, 4:13 pm · #1

Hello I am new to the group and a 1st time VG owner. I picked this car up for a great price due to a "No Spark" issue. I vave not messed with the car much at all short of checking for spark at the plugs and I also pulled the fuel line (before the regulator) to see if it was getting fuel and It is not pumping fuel either. I am (as most are) on a tight budget and want to go about finding the issue the right way. Can someone offer guidance on a good starting point? I have been told the Dizzy by a Nissan mechanic friend of mine and possibly a crank censor by another S12 member.
Any input would be great!!!!

<a href="http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee290/litefingers376/1987%20200%20SX%20SE/?action=view&amp;current=2df239f5-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee290/litefingers376/1987%20200%20SX%20SE/2df239f5-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

WonderingravenApr 6, 2012, 5:22 pm · #2

First I would Check the ECU - the ECU will tell you alot in diagnostic mode.
But if that fails I roll down the check list.
Check Fuel Pressure, Check plugs, Check Dizzy including CAP + Roter + Crank sensor, Check IAC make sure the screw is turned, Check Vaccum lines, Check MAF, Check ThrottleBody and the Sensor on the TB.
Then go from there.

Colonel GustardApr 6, 2012, 10:03 pm · #3

no spark is either distributor or coil

silvertonApr 6, 2012, 10:15 pm · #4

the crank angle sensor is inside of the distributor.  Super easy to get to and replace.  Just be sure you put the optic disc back on correctly!

Spec-breJul 30, 2012, 7:57 pm · #5

Ok so ive replaced the dizzy and the coil and still no spark i can read voltage on the black and white wire coming from.the car at the plug that plugs into the little box in front of the coil so im stumped please advise

vg30e_x2_200sxAug 1, 2012, 5:44 pm · #6

Are you getting no spark and no fuel? The fact that you pulled the fuel line and got nothing leads me down the path of the failed fuel sender. As far as no spark have you replaced the parts with new ones or used ones?

Ju_S12_TurboAug 2, 2012, 12:23 am · #7

kick the ecu!

silvertonAug 2, 2012, 12:27 am · #8

Have you checked every single fuse?  sounds to me like the ECU isn't getting power.

Loving the pinstriping on that car!  I'm a sucker for 80's pinstriping...  that paint could clean up nice too.  and the interior looks minty!  Good find for sure!

Spec-breAug 2, 2012, 7:15 pm · #9

silverton i dont think the ecu is getting power either it wont even light up the led's for diagnostic mode
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and i dont even know the car well enough to know where all the fuses are at
cutter67Aug 2, 2012, 7:46 pm · #10

first thing i would do is look under the hood has anyone been under there do you see any wires that look out of place like someone ran them. also does the car have a alarm system on it. does everything else work electric wise. i chased a car with the same problem for weeks and it had a kill switch hid under the dash and print yourself a FSM for the car

Spec-breAug 2, 2012, 8:23 pm · #11

there is a switch under the dash but it wasnt wired into anything though it did look factory but the wiring was jank, my security light blinks and dings continually as long as the battery is in it yes alot of shit looks out of place there are two big ass gray connectors that arent hooked up and right in front of the battery there is that tiny box there looks like there should be 4 links in there but i only have 3, i did pop through one of the fsm's on here and checked the plugs to see if the ecu is getting power, though i am pretty sure it is not

silvertonAug 3, 2012, 11:32 am · #12

Security light should blink when a door is open. Ding should only be present when the key is in the ignition.  Pictures of the plugs near the battery would help and I could cross reference it to my car and tell you what should be there.
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Oh, and just to scratch off your "shit to check" list, I think the forth fusible link is for another vehicle. Its for the alternator iirc, and ours has that built in to it.
Spec-breJan 10, 2013, 5:21 pm · #13

Hello gang, long time no update but it's a long story.
Here is an update. After a couple hours of probing and trouble shooting we have narrowed it down to the ECU and a burnt in line diode on the power supply wire. All power supply wires to the ECU and the grounds have been checked. I have a salvage ECU on it's way but can not locate the resistor/diode.. I need one before I will try and start it. Anyone have a parts car or know the name of or part # of this???
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Ju_S12_TurboJan 14, 2013, 12:25 am · #14

That is for the coil transistor thingy haha. That is weird, my car didn't have that style (Mine was two different units)  all of the newer pathfinders PRW-2 used that style. 

So if you are just trying to get that piece go to a junk yard and go to a newer pathfinder and you can get it from there, if that part failed you should pick up a PRW-2 to replace your stock coil transistor. Its a killer mod and seeing that you know a thing or two you should be able to figure it out.  If you need help with it I will get off my lazy ass and see how I wired it up hhaha.  Fun fact, when I was wiring my set up in I forgot to attach that and it did cause a no start symptom haha.

Said mod

http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=34209

Spec-breJan 17, 2013, 8:58 pm · #15

Thanks form the reply! I located 1 on EBay and it should be here this week. Then we will be getting close!! I'll keep you updated!!

Spec-breFeb 10, 2013, 8:07 pm · #16

It's what I did yesterday but anywho...
 A mechanic from work and I spent 3 hours on the SE trying to track down the "no fire" issue the car has had since I bought it just under a year ago...
 Tested continuity on all wiring between the ECU and engine (harness) coil, dizzy, and everything else the FSM pointed out. New coil is fine, power to the dizzy is good, dizzy is going to be tested but the shop mechanic does not seem to think the issue is either of the two Dizzies I have. Grounds are good. Timing is correct.... We are at a loss.....
The only code I can get on the ECU is 2 reds and 1 green. That point to an ignition control problem but non of the recommended Actions have yielded any results... I'm really feeling it is something simple but DAMNIT this is aggravating..
The preve owner said the issue was intermittent at 1st but eventually got worse to the point it would no longer start. This is where it has been for over 2 years. The ECU was shot but it has been replaced and now seems to be working properly.

Spec-breFeb 25, 2013, 8:24 am · #17

6 more hours spent on the "No Fire" issue yesterday checking continuity, fuses, fusible links, relays and so forth... Gained not 1 FN inch of ground other then elimination of possible problems. Boxing the ECU up and sending it to night S12 to have him try it in his car.
Night, would you mind if I sent my dizzy as well?? I believe "evil genius" has a process of trying them without pulling yours out. Just unplug your from the car and plug mine into the harness the rest we'll have to ask. I will PM him after work (unless he sees this post;-)).

silvertonFeb 25, 2013, 1:32 pm · #18

have the cap off the distributor and car ignition on, pull a plug wire and set it near something safe for it to ground on, and spin the rotor, it should send a spark to test the optics are working fine.

calvins200sxFeb 25, 2013, 1:42 pm · #19

The part that you have showing in the above picture is 2.2 microfarad capacitor(this used for ac noise reduction). I don't think that is your problem. Also it look like the blue connector in the first and second picture is missing the relay that should be there. Check and see if you are getting the ignition signal out of the ECU and back from the coil. I know the black module in the Distributor will cause all kinds of problem. But you said you changed the dist. already. Again I would concentrate on the Ignition signal I think it is pin 1 and pin 3 of the ecu. Do you have the manual. I think you can turn the ingnition switch on and groud the negitive side of the coil to see if you generating a spark when you unground the coil negitive. I have the schematic of of the ignition circuit under the PR-2 upgrade subject in this section of the forum. Good Luck.
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To test the capacitor just use an Ohmeter and read the resistance between the 2 terminals. If it reads zero ohms it's shorted and needs replaced. The resistance should climb some when you hook up the ohmeter to it.