Browse › Community ›Introductions
Sup.....title pretty much says it all. I have been a Nissan man from when I was little. Ive gone through my share of Sentra s and Maxima s. Over the last year I have been working on a z32 and im now looking to down size but keep the fun. If I would have know about the s12, I would have probably not the bought the Z. Hopeing maybe sombody might want to work out a trade......Or at least meet some ppl in VA
Welcome!
what kind of z32? and welcome....
93 2+2 manual, 157k miles, z1 short throw shifter, steel braided break lines in the front ( have the rear but didnt install), replaced front rotors ans FR caliper (new), After market intake piping with pop charger air filter, Cat back exhaust, TT rear rims (245 inside of the stock 225), I also have a set a 350z 7 spoke rims for it, also have a used Lambo door kit, has a TT front bumper
Cons:
Hit deer on front right (hood and fender replaced but the frame needs to be pulled about 1.5 inches)
Could use a paint job as paint is faded on rear hatch ( I might plasti dip it)
Interior could use some love but everthing is there and works
Any other questions ...just ask :idea:
Well scince im here, is there anything historic, wierd, hard to find, special (beyond what the eye sees) about these (s12) cars?
do you have pics of the car and what would you value your z?
ZX Knight on 03:31:16 PM / 27-Dec-12Well scince im here, is there anything historic, wierd, hard to find, special (beyond what the eye sees) about these (s12) cars?
d_k_jose_s12 on 06:12:04 PM / 27-Dec-12do you have pics of the car and what would you value your z?
Don't be surprised at how many members would be willing to jump the S12 ship in to a Z32.
I dunno about that
I dont have any pics with me ( I cant bring my phone into work) but ill post some tomorrow. <--- thats if my home internet cooperates. As far as what I value the car at......Probably 2400$ without the extra rims and door kit.
Post Merge
silverton on 10:20:03 PM / 27-Dec-12Don't be surprised at how many members would be willing to jump the S12 ship in to a Z32.
ZX Knight on 11:30:01 AM / 28-Dec-12Wonder if anyone can give me some direction on pricing. Looking a one on CR and need some thoughts on his pricing. Link is below
I notice its an SE.... http://york.craigslist.org/cto/3375039469.html
Redneck on 11:23:44 PM / 28-Dec-12Pricing and wheel fitment are very arguably the two most heated and debated subjects on cs12. That said I think most will agree 4k is pretty steep for a basically stock SE. The biggest advantage this particular SE apparently has going for it is that it only has 96k miles which is obviously very low. The pictures are also pretty limited and small which makes it harder to determine its value.
pssshh 4k that guys high
rear bumper doesn't look OEM paint doesn't seem to match, the rest of the paint is badly faded, trim pieces around the glass are in disrepair, looks like a dent the size of a softball just below the front hatch corner on the driver side. DS headlight lid also doesn't match up with the fender.
Not worth $4000. Maybe 2500-3000
It's got some badass 80's style pin striping though! I'm jealous!
silverton on 10:20:03 PM / 27-Dec-12Don't be surprised at how many members would be willing to jump the S12 ship in to a Z32.
Welcome, be prepared to think out of the box owning an s12 as theyre a little different than any of the other chassis you mentioned. Good luck!
I need help with posting a pic. Directions, please
Post Merge
go to photobucket.com make an account then click upload with the green arrow next to it....click browse files find the pic u want to upload if u want to selected multiple pics hold ctrl while clicking. once uploaded click on the picture u want to put in here then look on the right side of the page and it will say image links the last one of 4 says image code click on that and it will copy automatically.....then click paste in whatever thread u want to put it in
it will look like this
[IMG]http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r606/turrbos12/24.jpg[/IM G]
without the space between M and the G ^
Thanks for the instructions :yes:
The white stuff on the car is frost, although the rear hatchs' paint is faded
Post Merge
cool you figured it out....im sure u could sell it and find a pretty nice s12 with the money
Does anybody have a running s12 valued around 1600$ that is interested in a str8 trade?
What Redneck said is very true... there are some that want to look mostly stock with just a bit extra lowness and a bit extra speed, although those people are very few.
Most people fall into two categories: those who want to look and drive like drifters, and those who want to look more vintage and just want to improve most areas.
The first type want to throw on wheels with crazy negative offsets and slam the car low, with lots of negative camber and stretched tires. The second category tends to want more normal wheel/tire fitment. The first is driven more by looks IMO (but not always), and the second isn't. That's my personal summary of Redneck's statement.
So basically you should decide what you want the car for... 80's vintage looks? Or are you trying to recreate the Hachi-Roku drift madness craze?
Also, what was said about this chassis is true in that there are some basic principles inherent to Nissan that aren't true in other car platforms. One of which is that there are often similarities between Nissan chassis, both in the way the engines sit in the cars as well as component parts throughout the car. Nissan likes to share parts across multiple platforms. An example of this is how S13 and S14 engines literally drop right into the S12 engine bay without any real modifications required to the mount points (as long as you use the newer mounts), and how the rear end shares geometry and parts with the Z31 300ZX's, or how the front suspension is remarkably similar to 280ZX (or early 300ZX if talking S12 SE).... these are but a few examples.
You should consider the information and ideas here:
S12 Engine Swap Guide
It's a good place to start and will also be of help when deciding which S12 trim you might prefer to buy.
As far as price goes, there will be some pristine examples of S12's surfacing on places like Craigslist, but only a super clean manual trans SE will deserve an asking price of $2K or higher. Most of the 4-cylinder S12's in excellent condition are still only worth between $1K and $1500 presently, although some patience will net you a great deal sometimes well below a grand on a clean 4-cyl S12. This is all in US Dollars, although the general value is true in Canada. In Europe, you might have to pay more because of the decreasing numbers of these cars.
If you plan to swap, DON'T buy an SE unless you want to put your Z32 engine in it lol. Again, read the swap guide and decide for yourself.
@ Arro
That was some great info to have, especially the price part. Im actually just looking for a DD to have some fun in. I have been ride street bikes (zx12r, r6) year round to to work (92mile round trip) and think it might be time to start looking at becoming a fair weather rider. When I left the house today it was 30 deg, it would be nice to have some heat.
Let me ask you this: Are you willing to consider a swap? I ask this because IMO, the best DD setup is a cheapo CA20E engine S12 in clean condition (meaning you increase the odds of spending little for a solid chassis and interior), with an S14 KA24DE and S14 trans swap. Solid, reliable, reasonably fuel efficient, but very peppy in that light weight chassis offering a great combination for spirited driving. Also means parts are easy to get at a local parts store, and you can save more money this way leaving some for suspension replacement (ancient rubber bushings suck) and improvements. Handling attention really wakes these cars up.
If you just want some decent looks and fuel economy, get a CA20 car and clean it up, throw some nice wheels on, improve the suspension. But the KA swap is easy and the results are WAY more than you'd expect. It's an excellent combination with this chassis, and the wiring is pretty easy. We have how-to information on that with schematics and photos.
Here's my KA swapped car:
http://club-s12.org/retro4/index.php?topic=27418.0
I dont have any issue with doing a swap and had already found a s14 KA motor at JGYcustoms. Im still working on just finding a car tho, seems to be a short of S12 in Virginia and the immediate surronding areas.
good luck finding one ive been looking for my second s12 for almost 2 years and only came across one in that time
Ive come acrouse 8 in the last week butthe price is higher than I expect to pay. 1k for a roller and 2500+ for anything running
Well that might be acceptable out that way, 1K for a GOOD condition roller might indeed be what they go for out there if there is a shortage. S12's don't fare that well out that way, rust and weather eat them to pieces and they get scrapped pretty frequently. It's not like out here where it's drier and they are more available. They used to be *abundant* here but even now that seems to be ending.
Maybe a solid rolling chassis is what you need. Especially if you're just going to throw in the S14 engine like I did.
I would get a roller but I have to get rid of the Z first... 2 many toys and too little money LOL.
Thought I might be of help to someone else if they come across these in time:
http://scranton.craigslist.org/cto/3494810595.html
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/3417157597.html
http://york.craigslist.org/cto/3375039469.html
Post Merge
hahahaha bank of mom
ive seen the red one i made an offer they turn it down ohh well i walked away
"i know the rareity and the value of this car so no lowballs"
Seems like there is a downside to Club-S12. Someone can google and get the half-baked notion that these are already "collectables".
Some of us who have been here from the beginning, we knew that this day would come (nudges Keith in the shoulder a bit).
i dont think 1500 was lowballing
You dont get it, he thinks these are some sort of rare collectible car. Anything less than what he's asking for is probably "lowballing" to him.
i am just giving a quick update from my phone. im now a full mumber. I found a 88 notch in Ohio for 500. Its a 5 speed ,88, witha lil rust but the body is str8... Best of all it runs... It cuts out after it heats up but im sure with a lil dggin i can figure out what it is. Ill
Wow that was a pretty fast purchase. Congrats! Notches are definitely getting harder to find and 88 is a good year as they got the stronger C tranny. As you already know pics are a must when you get a chance haha.
if it cuts out after it heats up it's your cyl head temp sensor (cts) Check the wiring to it the actual sensor may need to be replaced....and congrats on the find. Post some pics when you get the chance.
That, sounds, FUCKING AWESOME.
100% worth it.
i wnt a mk2 notch
Nice sounds almost as bad as my trip to norcal for my black hatch.... but replace tow dolly with tow strap and replace v8 truck with 6 cyl sante fe rental and replace snow with rain lol.... Gotta tell you my black hatch is never going anywhere for all the shit I went through haha....
This morning I ran out side to pull off the IACV befor I went to work. I did the research and thought I knew where it was located.....however it wasnt there. I did find what I believe to be the IACV but it was at the back of the intake mani. Pics below: Is this the IACV? and do you think this damage is what giving me issues? What other vehicle has a interchangable IACV (there are no CA motors at my local junk yard)?
Red beat me to it....
Hey guys, I did some more research and the IACV is definatly at the back of the inake mani. I think maybe we were on diffrent pages... either way here are pics of the inside of the IACV
Question: When I opened it up a spring fell out.... can anybody tell me what side the spring goes in on (modual side or bracket side)? (I think its the bracket side but I cant get it to fully close) or can I just leave the spring out?
When fully assembled the part looks like this:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Idle-Air-Control-Valve/1988-Nissan-Datsun-200SX/_/N-ihuddZ9gsof?itemIdentifier=223414_0_1361_1277
SO... .I went to the junk yard over the weekend and the "Cas for Clonkers" thing is crazy. They are crushing perfetly good cars.
(I think these were messed up moving them around)
Anyways, so I go in and find my donor car (this is actualy on of the two cars that I got part off of... just took the shocks of this on)
So I know have everything between the control are and the shock....everything. Now I was under the belief that everthing would just bolt up and I would just have a wider avaiability of suspension parts but I was doing more research today and I was some comments about how if you use the s13 control, you will have way to much nagative cammber. <---- is this fixable or somthing you have to live withif you run s13 susp.?
Post Merge
check oem-surplus.com I believe they still have some....
....Okay so I embarked on my s13 front suspension conversion this weekend :yay!:..... and by the end I was like :sniffles: I think im close but some things need to be iron out.
I did the Full s13 parts with the s14 tension brackets (grabbed a z31 master cyclinder as mine was dead)
Ill now procedd to ask questions so that I can get it 100 right:
-Right now the car is pigeon toe and the tie rod are all the way in. How do you correct this? If i need aftermarket tie rod, which one did you get? (preferr to keep that on the cheaper side)
-Cars steering no longer goes back to center. (I used the s13 shock and spring) Do you think that is the issue?
-The tension rod didnt line up right. Look like I could have bored out the whole and made it work (I didnt have a tool for that so I just ground off the second bolt....Ill get another one later). Did you have the same issue with the s13 tension rod and 214 tension rod bracket, if so how did you fix this?
what tie rods did you use?
If stock S13/S14 then you must trim them down and re-thread them or else you'll have mad toe in.
and also what lower arm did you use? IIRC you have to use the S13 LCA with the S13 tension rod. I've never worked on S13 suspension but on my S12 stuff I had adjust the castor rod further back, bolt it in, then adjust it back.
I_heart_VVL on 11:50:50 AM / 22-Jan-13what tie rods did you use?
If stock S13/S14 then you must trim them down and re-thread them or else you'll have mad toe in.
and also what lower arm did you use? IIRC you have to use the S13 LCA with the S13 tension rod. I've never worked on S13 suspension but on my S12 stuff I had adjust the castor rod further back, bolt it in, then adjust it back.
i think what ive heard is you have to use an escort tie rod for it to work