O2 sensor

Okay, So i put on a T25 turbo from an sr20 motor and the down pipe from the turbo has the sr20 o2 sensor on it.  It plugs right into my stock connecetor but the engine ran like crap.  I unplugged it and it runs good except for a miss at idle.  Will this damage my engine if I continue to run with my O2 sensor disconneceted?  Also does anybody know what I can do to make the old O2 sensor fit into the down pipe for the T25 turbo.  The T25 downpipe O2 sensor is much smaller in diameter than the T2 turbo downpipe O2 sensor.

the sensors should be the same size. Ive swapped my s12 sensor into the t25g down pipe and been fine the sr sensor you have is bad if the car is running like crap I would just swap to the old sensor or invest in a new as they don't cost that much....

The o2 sensor off the T2 turbo is larger in diameter than the sensor from the T25g.  I will double check..maybe thread size is the same.  The diameter of the sensor itself is much larger than the t25.

as long as the thread pitch is the same you should be fine....

Yup they may look diff in size but i bet the thread is the same

ya iv got a t28 with an sr down pipe and my stock o2 fights right in

I pulled the o2 sensors and compared them and they have different diameter threads.  I can take the removable bung from the T2 and put it in the sr20 downpipe and then it should work.  now that I have the car running I am more than pleased with it....its my daily driver now and I enjoy it more each day i drive it.

I would strongly suggest you replace the O2 sensor, as an aging sensor will give your computer incorrect data... which could result in insufficient fuel delivery and possible engine damage. This is more critical with a turbocharged car than a non-turbo, and also in cruise or part throttle. Also, if you hook up a narrow band O2 meter to it (I seriously hope you have done so or are going to soon) you wont get accurate readings from an aging sensor. Don't cheap out and pay the price later. Just buy a new sensor. And a meter if you haven't already. You need to baseline your fuel readings before you just turn the boost up even "a bit". You need to know what's going on with your car first. Otherwise you run the risk of scoring the cylinder walls, crushing rod bearings, blowing a head gasket, or even throwing a rod our the side of the block.

If you aren't familiar with baselining, then go to the "What The Hell Is That?" section of the forum and read "What the hell is TUNING?" It's all explained there, including narrow band gauges and other helpful things for turbo tuning.

Narrowband = lightshow just get a wideband they arent that expensive...and youll get a way better reading.....interms of actual numbers....

sideways_s12 on 02:34:32 PM / 19-Mar-13just get a wideband they arent that expensive

Aem wideband is 99 shipped so no not kinda expensive unless you are completely broke...

Haha, your missing a very important piece of the puzzle here, man.  Sure,  a replacement O2 sensor is 100 bucks,  but what good does that do you.  You need a guage/controller with it.  Now from AEM,  were talkin 250+

No no your missing the point were talking about tuning if you get an oem o2 its cheap. But interms of tuning the narrowband is shit wideband on ebay ( go look it up) is 99 dollars i know this because ive bought 2.  Were talking about 2 different things your thinking replacement o2 Im talking about tuning....

I know exactly what you're talking about though.  I said wideband O2's are kinda expensive.  You said that they aren't,  but gave this as an example,

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-uego-replacement-sensor-635?osCsid=qq05evp41mv5bhq16gtgq4jla5

And that's not a wideband setup for tuning,  thats just the O2 sensor that you need along with the guage/controller that you need in order to tune.  Which is 250+ and not just 99 shipped.

 :angel:

Omg go to ebay and look it up the whole setup is 99 shipped again ive bought 2 not just the sensor the whole damn thing....
Post Merge

This thread went to fail fast.

You don't need a wide band. Nor does the average person have the skill and/or tools to properly tune with one. It means you'll be making a trip to the dyno. If you have one in your local area, fine, but it's not cheap per run, and it takes a handful of runs to tune a car with a wideband. If you don't have a tune dyno in your area, then your wideband O2 is just an expensive light show, whereas the narrow band O2 meter will now let you effectively tune it yourself with some patience.

I have always been of the opinion that for 90% of "tuners" out there, wide band is just something expensive they can say they installed, but either never use properly or have to pay more money out for someone to tune with.

If you truly understand fuel ratios and how to read O2 voltage, you do NOT need a wide band. If your shit is so close to the danger zone that the resolution of a wide band is needed, you're either driving a professional racecar or your shit is just asking to blow up from a stray moment of boost creep or spike.

In most cases, the range of fuel you need is viewed by the narrow band just fine, and .5 volts is very manageable. Hell, the Autometer's resolution is smaller than .5 and there are also digital narrow band meters that tell you to the exact tenth of a volt.

Edit: Oh, and a wide band gauge might be 99 bux (or a bit more for the better ones), but a wide band O2 sensor is a shitload more. You're gonna spend easily over two hundred, maybe more, for a complete setup. I've battled on a number of forums over this shit, and in the end nobody can prove how a wideband has any advantages over a narrow band for the average garage tuner who doesn't have his own dyno or fancy expensive datalogger.

Reading the info thread I posted about explains how you use it. If it works, why pay more? Seriously let me restate that: If it works, why pay more? Why? Really? Why? LOL

Arro on 10:21:34 PM / 20-Mar-13This thread went to fail fast.

Look I'm sorry if that first sentiment came off as arrogant... it's just that over the years here, I've been involved in not one but many debates over this particular issue, and not one of them ever resulted in what I'm saying here to be proven untrue. That, and I have seen many situations where people successfully tuned with a narrow band, and later dyno'd to see what sort of power they were making, and almost always the patient tuner can get a good home tune with a narrow band meter. It isn't just "virtual tuning" on my part, and in fact I have tuned not one but three boosted cars that way with good results.

sideways_s12 on 02:35:18 AM / 15-Sep-08not as of yet and yes it rich but about the same as before I changed my injectors

Arro on 11:26:25 AM / 01-Oct-08I'm not so sure about that... how are you determining that? Wide-band? A narrow-band isn't accurate enough to do that.

You left out an important comment:

Arro on 02:33:32 AM / 15-Sep-08Prolly running way rich... are you using some kind of fuel computer to control them?

Im not talking about my specific issue im talking about the fact that you said the narrowband isnt accurate enough to tell if im still running rich.... But then in this and the other thread you say its ok to tune with....
Post Merge

You're misquoting or misinterpreting me. I was trying to get across in that old thread that in your situation, it wasn't able to tell you HOW rich you were, because you were probably well beyond its useable range. Used in a more reasonable condition it works just fine.

In no way is a wide band meter the equivalent of a dyno. Say that on the wrong forum and they'll eat you alive :P

You could use an AFC to adjust things, sure... but reading a narrow band is way easier so your adjustments are going to be easier to watch. Like I said in the threads I referenced, the voltage increments are more manageable for the average person who doesn't have savant mathematics skills or super vision to spot the nuances. Nor do you want that much precision IMO on a street car. You want a little (a TINY little) bit of ratio cushion, and the increments found in common narrow band voltage readouts gives you that. See the "limit" light flicker or go out momentarily, you back off and turn down boost or add more fuel. Add more fuel and see it go up two lights instead of one? Dial the fuel back a bit 'till it's where it should be. Yes, a wideband can do that, but it's way more expensive and way too fine a resolution for "on-the-go", when a narrow band meter does everything I just described and does it in very easy to visualize measurements.

The choice is yours... spend the money or not. I'm just pointing out what to me makes the most sense, and to my experience has worked without a hitch.

And btw, EGT is also a nice choice. It's very accurate, but the measuring criteria is different and it isn't always as fast as an 02 meter (narrow or wide, either). Honestly, if you're gonna go more than just a few extra PSI, you should be running both. There are occasionally conditions where the mixture is ok but the temps are too high, or the other way around. At lower boost levels this is nominal but in more aggressive ranges it becomes problematic (risky). So an EGT is a good idea for more serious tuning. But then the EGT meter WILL DEFINITELY NEED TO BE BASELINED BEFORE upping the boost even a single PSI.

Ok I see where your coming from now I understand it better explained the way you just did and it makes sense...