date not saved · #1
Was there any disussion on coverting the ca20's flapper door maf to to et's style maf? Any ideas how this could be done?
Ca18et maf on a ca20e
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Jun 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
date not saved · #2
cant be done. ECU would not recognize it. No Hex code for it imbedded.
date not saved · #3
So, the only way would be to use the turbo ecu then. What would be needed to be able to run the Ca20 with the ET's ecu. I don't want to turbo it. I know the dist and coil packs are different as well as the the et having a knock sensor. What else does the ecu control?
I was thinking of what kind of numbers you could put up with the engine kit listed on another post were you can get those ross 10:1 pistons, get some forged rods. colt cam etc. and run the et's ecu and maf, that pacesetter header, 2.5 inch exhaust with a N1 style muffler.
date not saved · #4
wouldn't running the n/a ca20 with the et ecu cause you to run too rich because of no turbo?
date not saved · #5
Yes it will, and that is the problem. Now correct me if I'm worng, but doesn't the O2 sensor also control the mixture to some extent, so that possibly it wouldn't run as rich. Also is the turbo, and the N/A wiring harness the same, or are they completely different beasts. Just wondering because it would make financial sense for Nissan to have both harnesses at least very similar. :dontknow: 8)
date not saved · #6
Are early Pulsars coil on plug?
If not, you could probably grab an ECU/MAF from them.
Or I'd say use an S13 ECU and MAF.
The turbo ECU is a bit too turbo dedicated.
date not saved · #7
has anyone tried a s13 ecu and maf on an s12?
date not saved · #8
HOw rich are we talking about? If the compression ratio is bumped up, it would bring in more air leaning the mixture wouldn't it. I wouldn't run the et's ecu on a stock ca20, I was thinking if the motor had a higher compression ratio, a more agresive cam, ka24 throttle body, 2.5 inch exhaust and some kind of header. This engine if built would probably need more fuel anyways.
date not saved · #9
It's still an airflow-based fuel system, since you'd be pulling less air in (supposing you're making less power than a CA18ET) the ECU should know it and put in fuel to match. The curve may be off though, for example Nissan seems to make its turbo cars run stupid rich. Something you could maybe help with an AFC or similar.
If you spent so much $ on a CA20 buildup though you might want to go the extra mile and get a standalone.
date not saved · #10
your best bet is too use a ca18de maf
date not saved · #11
why are you guys trying to replace your flap doors with hotwires if you arent going to be running any forced air systems? I see NO point in spenting sooo much time and $$ just to have the same car take in air differently. You will spend as much time trying to convert it, as it will cost to do a extensive CA20E buildup with a nice cam and some other goodies.
I just see no point in replacing all this stuff. Get a nice MSD blaster system, upgrade your IC piping, install a FMIC.....I dunno.
Maybe its just me, but everyone here wants to put CA18DE blocks on their CA20E's and all this wierd stuff that will not gain them any power. If you are going for power...install parts that will make you go faster, if you are going for reliability, rebuild the engine with quality parts. All this electrical stuff wont gain you anything.
date not saved · #12
By replacing the flapper with a hot wire, you allow the engine to breath better. What would be the point of changining anything else on the intake if you don't get rid of one of the biggest air restrictions in the system. Remember, the engine is nothing more than an air pump and the more air allowed the more potental for more power. You get a good cam, raise the compression a bit, port and polish the head, add a header and a better exhaust system you could make a decent motor out of the ca20.
Its not the electrical that adds the power, its the increase in air flow the does and replaceing the flapper door with the hot wire would be a way to do that. Think the turbo car only benifits from more air flow?
date not saved · #13
The flapper-type AFMs cause minimal restriction unless they are "maxed out". Ive measured the restriction and it is between -.2 and -.4 psi. If you are determined to use a hotwire MAF then you need to check out http://www.splitsec.com. They make a a/f converter that allows you to convert to a MAF sensor.
BTW, what are the diminsions of the CA20 AFM flapper anyway?
date not saved · #14
there's four and a half pages of discussion on making a CA20E intake in the Cold Air Intake topic
date not saved · #15
hahah. you say a restriction right? FOR WHAT! you are running a NON-turbo vehicle. You car is going to breathe no better with a hotwire. everything you are pulling in is vacuum. If you were running ANY forced induction, even one of those $20 "superchargers" off ebay, and I know you all know what i mean, then I would CONSIDER changing to a hotwire, otherwise, i think its pointless and you all are better off buying a ca18et and dropping that in there.
date not saved · #16
Yellow, don't smash the dreams of an n/a motor. All the turbo does is increase the cylander pressure in the combustion chamber, same effect is acheived by upping the compression ratio of the engine. The N/a will not make more power than a modified turbo but will make more than a stock turbo if built up right. Not all of us have even seen a turbo model. The ca20 is more common. I know its not a racing motor, just would like to get as much power out of it as posible without taking the easy way out and adding a turbo. It probably isn't worth the hasle to switch to a different maf that flows better and is more accurate in metering air. The stand alone would be a good idea. With the higher compression and higher lift cam, It would probably need or want to run larger injectors. You add more air and fuel to any engine, and it will make more power. But it also needs to me metered accuratly, hence the hot wire maf. (More than one benifit than just air flow). Sure I would love to own a turbo, but that isn't going to happen any time soon nor is this engine ever going to happen any time soon either. I would love to beat one of those turbo cars in a race with an N/A, that would be priceless.
Reminds me of a credit card add, $$$ more motor rebuild, $$ for new cam and ported head, $$$ for header and exhaust, $$$ for larger injectors and stand alone, Beating that ass with the turbo, Priceless. Big deal you beat a Civic, but you had to do it with a turbo.
date not saved · #17
there's four and a half pages of discussion on making a CA20E intake in the Cold Air Intake topic
And it was asked here first, look at the dates. The other post started only 2 or 3 days before but the MAf question wasn't brought out intill after this one was.
date not saved · #18
Well if you are going to up the compression ratio to anything much above what it is now, be prepared to run race fuel, and then you may as well put a turbo, and run the ET ECU. Also as the compression ratio gets higher, the valve to piston clearance becomes an even bigger issue. And to be quite honest the CA20 isn't worth doing all this work to, unless you do everything, and make a setup similar to that of Yellow's...8)
date not saved · #19
honestly, im not trying to bash anyone, at all. Im not that kinda person, and maybe it just sounded harsh, but really people, think. Larger injectors.....IM not even running these and im not having problems, hotwire maf.....your still talking about vacuum, turbo coil packs.....why not just get a nice set of MSD Blaster they will make way better than anything Nissan makes.
If you want power out of the CA20E, or even reliability, just replace what is needed to make it more powerful.
1) Upgraded cam
2) Fuel management system
3) larger exhaust
4) port and polish
5) upgraded ignition
6) new rotor, plugs, wires...ect ect
Mimms I think had one of the best CA20E buildups and he didnt worry about the hotwire MAF.
Im just trying to state the obvious and save you all some time and $$. Spend your cash on upgrades, not another version of the same thing.
Just my 2 cents.
date not saved · #20
Yellow was just giving his two cents, and it makes sense. I'm no mechanic at all... but it seems for all the trouble you'd go through it'd be eaiser to either do standalone or one of Bart's MAF adaptors or any of the many options offered, especially if you aren't tryin to build a racecar. As to Yellow's offensive display of what can only be called :lame: (the beating of civics with a turbo), well, I just hope that you will stop beating Civics with your big mean turbo. :hit: they don't deserve it!
belive me... Yellow's not tryin to help smash na dreams 'cause he's helping with my na build-up with info and by selling me parts
date not saved · #21
thanks man. really, i mean it just sounds logical.
There are some ppl in OZ that have a supercharged S12 CA20E. Just something to think about doing. If you want more info, i can supply you wiuth some. Other than that, talk to mimms about his buildup, or there are plenty of ppl here that could help with a NA buildup.
date not saved · #22
If you want power out of the CA20E, or even reliability, just replace what is needed to make it more powerful.
1) Upgraded cam
2) Fuel management system
3) larger exhaust
4) port and polish
5) upgraded ignition
6) new rotor, plugs, wires...ect ect
Mimms I think had one of the best CA20E buildups and he didnt worry about the hotwire MAF.
Im just trying to state the obvious and save you all some time and $$. Spend your cash on upgrades, not another version of the same thing.
Just my 2 cents.
I did mention those items, just was wondering about the maf. I got my answer and thank you. Like I stated before, it won't be any time soon that I will probably be able to do anything, but I can still make up a wish list. Kick around some ideas and what should be done in waht order If I only do one or two things at a time. I first have to get it running and see how it drives stock. I am probaly going to either have to replace or rebuild the motor. Got water in the oil due to some punk who got the heater and pcv lines mixed up which when I put water in it for the first time to start it, guess were the water went. INto the oil. At first I thought it was a blown head gasket, found the lines like they were and now I don't think it does. NOw I am worried about what the water in the oil has done to the internals. Make matters worse (could be related to water in the cylanders from intake), but I have had piston to spark plug contact. Good thing I only have like 400 into the car. If I had to rebuild it I was going to look into those ross pistons and colt cams. Or I may get another used engine.Right now all that is on the back burner as I have to find work first. Peace