Me and my mate were on our way home last night and ammusing ourselves with some roll ons and generally just blasting around cos it was late as and some guy had just complemented my car and i was happy.
Anyways the short version is that his car is faster but i don't really care about that to much since my car is for drift and thrash (and cos i'm going to work out why his is faster so i can match his performance :D).
Anyways you probably all know my car but here it is again for comparison SR20DET @ 11psi (i usually run more but not this time), extractor manifold, 3" turbo back exhaust, JZA70 supra front mount 2" stainless IC piping, K&N pod filter, 15 degrees BTDC timing (stock). Everything else enginewise is stock and the car is a coupe SGL with all options IRS and R200 LSD (4.3:1 and a bit heavier than my mates i'm sure). My mates car has a SR20DET @ 11psi, AVO Stage 2 cooler (front mount about the same size as mine but prolly flows better), 3" exhaust, 2" stainless IC piping, pod filter and 16 degrees BTDC ignition timing. He also has a MINE's ECU. His car is a coupe SGL with all the options same as me but his is a live axle rear end (3.7:1 i think). We both have the same NGK plugs gapped to 0.8 and whatnot.
What i'm trying to work out is what is the critical difference between our cars that makes his faster? Is it the weight difference with the IRS giving away maybe 20kg to the live axle (we are going to check that on a weighbridge), the final drive with his being alot taller than mine? The MINE's ecu (somthing we will test in both cars on a dyno sometime)? The extra static timing (timing is power on the SR, just got to avoid detonation)? The (maybe) more restrictive cooler? The fact that my oil is a bit overfull might not help either (if the crank has to splash through the sump instead of sailing over the top of it??)
Anyways when i work that out it'll be interesting, any ideas people?
Not to dissapointed though my new castor rods mean i go sideways with much more control now ;)
Browse › Builds & Media ›Racing and dyno
Gazelle vs Gazelle
This thread was saved without dates. "Around Aug 2004" is estimated from neighbouring threads.
solid axle will get you off the line...
he can get the power down and better grip
the rest ecu i am guessing
the rest i don't think is that much to make a huge diff(0.5 cars maybe)
It was a roll on so it was pretty much a battle of horsepower i guess. Off the line his car just turns the right wheel into smoke (no LSD) which looks cool but doesn't make him go anywhere fast hehe.
At around 180-200km/h he is gaining pretty fast. I suspect it's a combination of final drive and the ECU.
throw a couple of nuts and bolts into his airbox (V8 supercar followers will know what i am on about) then he'll go slow and blame savatage! you get away with the win! hahahaha
Have you ever thought that maybve you cant drive neb? :slap: hehe
On fastfours or zoom or maybe hpi.. neway there was an article on what a stock, mines and some other jap brand ecu did on the dyno and a/f ratios.
There was a nice gain for both jap brands with mines still being a bit rich. This and the better cooler and less weight will all help alot in the mid-top end.
my 2c :lick:
I'll ignore that comment salps12 :P....bitch....
Been talking to some drag datto guys and they reckon the difference is in the diff ratio and the ECU. The SR20DET (and almost all turbo motors) well benefit from a taller ratio, they can pull it pretty hard, also the MINE's ECU probably has more timing in it than the stocker and on the SR20DET timing is power. As i see it the ECU offsets my extractor manifold and the slightly lighter weight and the diff means he can pull harder. Also his motor may be just one of those 'freak' ones (another mates S13 pulled 140rwkw with only catback exhaust when all the others at that same dyno day could only pull 115-125 with similar mods) that makes more power. Anyways i'm satisfied with that as an answer and i'm satisfied that i can go sideways much much better hehe...that'll be my comeback in any arguments anyways tehehe
Neb go for one of PL's d/boards and remap with a T28 and Z32 AFM and s15 injectors, don't waste your money on a Mines computer, this combo will piss on an off the shelf Mines job. I also read the article on the Mines ECU and while there was improvement it wasn't huge, its not a touch on PL's combo above. You get a reliable 185 + kw's at the wheels, (there's 2 to 3 guys at least who have got this combo who can vouch for these results). He dynoed mine on his car with S15 T28 and z32 afm (and using my 550cc (side feed type)injectors) same as is fitted to my car,on his own car and got 190rwkw's and then knocked it back slightly to 185 rwkw's to leave a safety margin. With slightly more tweaking and just using s15 480cc injectors PL is getting 190 -195kw's at the wheels. Also with PL's stuff you get 4 maps you can switch between with a neat very professional looking little external switch box, (I can send you pics of all this that's set up in my car ), so you can run less power when you want to to save fuel for everyday driving.
Of course i was always going for a PL remap, i saw a Z32 afm the other day in melbourne for $195 but of course it was gone :(. I'm looking at getting S15 injectors, Z32 afm and remap on the stock turbo. I don't want to buy a T28BB yet but with that setup i should be able to swap turbos later with no problems.
throw a couple of nuts and bolts into his airbox (V8 supercar followers will know what i am on about) then he'll go slow and blame savatage! you get away with the win! hahahaha
I dont have an airbox :tongue: so i dont think that will work.
We could put a HKS mushroom on your car then it'd suck nuts and bolts through it hey Ash :)