Superior Sport Chassis (aka Canuck Motorsports)Phone number: [phone removed]
E-mail: [email removed]The SSC Lowering Springs (aka Canuck Motorsports Lowering Springs) were custom made on my own car and put into production.
Spring Specs:Front: 325lbs/in(5.8kg/mm) Springrate
1.75" lowering
Rear:275lbs/in(4.9kg/mm) Springrate
1.5" lowering
Part Number: 60-1021 84-88 200sx
Spring Type: Linear
Cost Shipped within Canada/USA(lower 48 states): $216CDN
Other Regions: Please contact Canuck Motorsports directly for international shipping quotes at
[email removed]NOTE THAT THESE PRICES ARE THE PRICES LISTED THROUGH E-BAY ONLY. SEARCH E-BAY FOR "CM 200sx" PRICES ON THE CANUCK MOTORSPORTS WEBSITE ARE HIGHER($215cdn for the s12 springs) BECAUSE THEY INCLUDE SHIPPING AND HANDLING(within north america) AND APPLICABLE TAXES.notes1) The REARS will work with solid axle models if you notch the spring perch on the axle to work with the taper on the IRS springs.
2) Springs were made on a ca20e hatchback and dropped from the height it was sitting at, at that point in time. Official specs are 1.75" and 1.5" drop, but actual drop from factory specs may be between 2.25" - 2" on front and 2" to 1.75" on rear.
3) Drop height may vary from model to model due to differing curb weights
4) The front will drop lower than the rear giving the car a rake. It is not obscene and is only about 5/8" This rake will help in heavy acceleration and the typical rear squat is virtually eliminated.
5) Springs confirmed to work on following models:
ca20e Hatchback
ca20e Notchback(coupe)
ca18et Hatchback
vg30e Hatchback
Springs unconfirmed to work on following models(please note that these are just unconfirmed, they will most likely work):
fj20e hatchback
fj20e notchback
fj20et hatchback
fj20et notchback
ca18det hatchback
ca18det notchback
6) Springs look to be Progressive type springs, but the tighter coils, when installed and under load, will be fully compressed and will not affect handling/spring rates in any way. The tighter coils are to keep springs in the perch while under no load.
For inquries or to show your appreciation to SSC/Canuck Motorsports, Please contact Canuck Motorsports at
[phone removed] or send an e-mail to [email removed]Special thanks to:
Ray and Wayne at Superior Sport Chassis/Canuck Motorsports
Parm and Jaz at JMS
Raymond(BOSSMAN) for supplying stock springs
Matt(Doritoad) for making initial contact with SSC/CM
*NOTE: the wheel gap(between fender and tire) is due to a smaller tire size from stock
NOT due completely due to the drop. 205/40/17 instead of 215/45/17. Pictures were taken approximately 5 months after install, so they were completely settled and had lots of time to properly seat.
Indy's Basic SSC/CM/lowering spring installation guideREAR INSTALLATIONyou jack up the car, then get another jack and support the rear trailing arm.
Take out the bottom bolt for the struts(if you don't support the rear trailing arm, there will be stress on the bolt, and it won't come out). Lower the support jack on the arm and pull the old spring out. You may need a spring compressor.
when you take the old spring out, there will be a little rubber piece on the top. take that off and put that on the new spring. This rubber piece won't be flat, there's a little lip on one part of it, make sure that the end of the top coil sits against that lip. On the trailing arm there's a perch for the spring to sit on, that's also got a little bit of a lip on it(there should be another rubber thing on that perch). Make sure you get the spring on there properly in the perches or else when you put the car back down, it'll be uneven.
The new spring has tighter coils, these go at the TOP.
Okay, now the spring is in, use the 2nd jack to raise the arm so you can bolt up the rear strut again.
FRONT INSTALLATION (this one is kind of a two person job)
This is a little more time consuming, you have to take the whole strut assembly out.
First, jack up the car, take off the wheel, and remove the brake caliper.
On the bottom of the strut assembly, there will be two bolts holding it to the ball joint. Remove those two bolts. It won't come off the ball joint that easily, but leave it there for now.
Now, pop the hood and undo the three bolts holding the strut assemblies to the shock towers(don't undo them all the way, just like 90% of the way.
Okay, now go back to the bottom, you may need a hammer to knock it loose, but it will pop off. WHen it pops off, it will fall a bit, but the nuts at the top will catch it(but it's good to have somebody supporting it while you're knocking it loose off the ball joint.)
Go back into the engine bay and undo the 3 nuts completely as the other person is holding the strut assembly. It's pretty heavy, so watch out not to drop it.
Lay it down on the ground and pop the cap off of the top.
There will be a nut there, and the plate will be able to spin. you need to keep that plate from spinning or else the nut won't come off. If you've got a breaker bar, slide it between two of the 3 studs and place it on the ground so it won't move.
Undo that nut and everything should come off(be careful when you're taking that nut off. The spring is slightly compressed. you wont need a spring compressor, but just be careful to take the nut off slowly). If you dust boot is still intact, it will have a C clip at the bottom holding it on. Be sure to take that clip off first.
Take the old spring off and slide the new spring in. Again, when you're putting the spring in, there will be little lips where the tops and bottoms of the springs must rest against for the car to sit level(like the rears, the tighter coils go up top).
Now do everything in reverse. Put the boot back on and remember to use the c clip(when you took the boot off, the bump stop will be inside the boot..take it out and slide it back onto the shaft of the strut before putting the boot back on). Put the tops back on, and tighten the nut.
You'll have the same problem about the spinning top piece. You'll have to use the breaker bar or screw driver again to tighten this.
Putting the strut assembly back in is a bit tricky. You'll have a bit of trouble getting it back on the ball joint, but dont' give up. First, slide the top in, and quickly put the nuts back on so your friend(or you) dont' have to hold the strut up. Most likely, you'll only be able to get two of them on at first, you'll have to move it around a bit to get the last stud through the hole. (remember, it doesn't have to be tight, just on so your friend doesn't have to hold it up) Once all three are in there, screw int he nuts as much as you can w/o them being tight on the strut tower. This is just so the strut assembly is sitting higher, and you don't have to lower the control arm that much lower
here comes the harder part. use a breaker bar to push down on the control arm(you can try stepping on it also) while the other person tries to slide the strut assembly back onto the ball joint. Like I said, this is a bit tricky, but it can be done.
Now that it's on, put the bolts back in, tighten the strut tower nuts, put the caliper back on, the wheel goes back on..then lower the car.
if you have a trolley jack that's not SUPER low and you jacked the car up from the cross member, you'd better go get some scissor jacks. The car sits so low now that more than likely, your trolley jack can't fit under the cross member. You'll need to lower the car as much as you can first, then support the car with the scissor jack at the rocker panel. Pull the trolley jack out, and then lower the scissor jack. it's a bitch to do this everytime(lowering and raising you need two jacks for the front now...) but hey..whatever lol.