Brake Fade

Yes i searched...

I am experiencing some horrible brake fade...I have all recently replaced brake pads, year old REAR rotors, and recently clushed brake fluid. Heres where i THINK my problem lies..I bled per the FSM, it goes DR to PR to PF to DF. i did it once before going PR to DR to PF to DF. that way worked fine. would a bad bleed cause REALLY bad fade? i have the Duralast GOLD pads (fkin $$$) because my last set (cheapos) wore out in 6 months...ideas?

The way you did it I think is better, because you generally want to go from the furthest point to the closest point...However it is possible that your problem lies in the master cylinder piston. It is common to have those seals wear out, and then your brakes start to fail, and they will gradually get worse until they give up completely, and for this process to happen, often doesn't take too long. For a replacement the one found in the 240SX (S13) is generally used, it is a lot beefier, and so are the seals used in it...

PR, DR, PF, DF. the 240sx is actually smaller. our MS is 15/16 same as the z32's without abs.

He means the plunger inside the master cylinder, not the master cylinder itself.

Brake fade, as we call it is a gradual (or sudden) loss of braking power.

Usually caused by overheating brakes. As in you hit the brakes hard, the pedal still feels good, but the brakes aren't grabbing. Kind of like the first time you hit the brakes after a car wash.

If your brakes are just going away without being abused first, it's not fade.

If you hit the brakes, get strong pedal at first, then the pedal starts to inch to the floor without braking any harder, your master is dying.

Check the front of your brake booster for signs of leakage in and around the master cylinder. Brake fluid eats paint, so it should be easy to spot.

Second, the high tech approach. With the car off, get a friend to pump the brakes a few times firmly while you keep your ear near the master cylinder.

If you can hear air moving around, like a hiss or a squish, your plunger is toast.

Easy cheap fix ... so no fear at all.

PR, DR, PF, DF. the 240sx is actually smaller. our MS is 15/16 same as the z32's without abs.
The Z32 never came without ABS. Just FYI. I agree with Mr. 200, it doesn't sound like you're experiencing brake fade. Have you noticed your brake fluid level in the master cylinder going down?

Master Cylinders:

46010-30P01 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16" NA Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16" TT Tokico)
46010-30P02 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16" NA & TT Tokico)
*46010-30P10 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (15/16" NA Nabco non-ABS)*
46010-30P21 Manufacture date 2/89 – 7/90 (17/16" NA Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/89 – 7/90 (17/16" TT Nabco)
46010-30P22 Manufacture date 7/90 – 2/91 (17/16" NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1" NA TT Tokico)
46010-45P00 Manufacture date 2/91 – 9/91 (1" NA & TT Tokico)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/91 – 9/93 (1" NA & TT Nabco)
46010-45P20 Manufacture date 9/93 – Up (1" NA & TT Nabco)

*just FYI

LOL Well, guess that proves me wrong. And to think, I thought I knew everything. ;)

holy secret ninja shit...lol..No leaks, but ill check the sound thingy.

Its definately like you said..im on the brake for NO MORE than 10 secs and the pedal just kinda gives more, and i have less stopping power..it sucks really. so..to get BETTER stopping power over stock, get the Z32 NON-ABS mast. cyl? or is the one i have as good as it gets w/o changing calipers and rotors?

either one is fine it just a question of what your plans are. I'm running a rebuilt 200zx with the z32 calipers and its way more then enough.

brake fade is caused by one and only one thing.. heat... best thing to do is gut the dust shield and then also get some crossdrilled rotors... now when you say brake fade do u mean it takes alot of pedal travel to stop the car or are your brakes fading after hard and continuous abuse

Also this is kinda off topic, but for those who may not know, cross drilled rotors will reduce heat, but slotted rotors actually keep heat in the rotor. (I think this works by the slots not allowing the hot gasses to expel from the rotor)...now back to the regularily scheduled thread...8)

yea..its NOT brake fade..its excessive pedal travel. ive felt brake fade, and thats only after running the crap outta the brakes for a solid half hour. ( i did that with my old tempo LOL what a piece) but yea, im thinkin ill do the z32 upgrade. so i get the 90 nonturbo, non abs Master Cyl, and calipers/pads right? do the rear brakes work as well? do i need to convert any lines or anything?

pdm racing makes the conversion lines, yes make sure you get the same year rotor and calipers (there was a difference between 26mm and 30mm) infact if your serious about doing this conversion let me know I have a set of 30mm rotor that have been drilled for 4 lug and I'll cut you a really good deal. had them turned and painted the center.

The "30mm Aluminum" calipers were used on 1990 Twin-turbos and ALL 1991-1992.5 300ZX's (both turbo and non-turbo alike). They used a 280mm x 30mm rotor.

ok so you then you must have got air into the lines by either the way you blead them or your master cylinder is on its last leg

there are some rotors on ebay... just search for "80 datsun" and you will see them

..for a 5 lug (5 x114.3).?