S14 four potter install

Finally got around to doing something with my S14 four potters.
Basically a bolt on mod since they are going on my S13 hubs.
Used some S15 rotors (thanks gerry) that fitted after enlarging the holes to 13mm, someone else had drilled the rotors to 4x114.3 so that they fitted but since the holes weren't exactly on the PCD it was binding up on the hub (since the rotor is hubcentric).
The S13 brake lines didn't bolt straight on, it looks as though the S14 might use a cup and cone style end on it's front brake lines so the banjo's on the S13 lines wouldn't go on since the banjo bolts were bottoming out. Ground the bolts down a bit and S13 banjos fitted just fine :).
Despite getting some rims with alot of clearance to the spokes i still have to use 6mm spacers, this is because the rims are a +40 offset (fwd origin probably) but it's no big deal.
Pads are Pagid RS4, i havn't read up on them but i'm using them cos they are only half worn and came with the calipers. I think they are supposed to be good though.
I havn't driven the car on the road yet cos i need to replace the front studs with some longer ones really.
Anyways here are some pics of the bits i used. There is a comparison to the old twin potters i had, they were actually plenty powerfull but given that the 4 pot swap cost me $100au i decided to go with it due to ease of finding cheap decent pads (ie EBC blackstuff for $74au).
You'll notice the S15 rotor is around 6mm thicker than the old rotor but the old twin potters have massive pistons in comparison to the S14 calipers.
And damn my new rims make the brakes look small even though they are 280x30mm rotors.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/Nebuchernezzer/101_4269.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/Nebuchernezzer/101_4276.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/Nebuchernezzer/101_4274.jpg

did you upgrade your master cylinder at any point??

Looks good man, hope you have a padded steering wheel for those sudden stops :p
How hard would it be to do that mod but switch to S14 hubs for the 5 stud pattern? I know you have the steering arms and coilover thing going on, what else would one need to do? What have you done to the rear suspension?

u might be able to fit s14 front hubs... but u would prolly need 300zx 31 rears' or v6 rears

did you upgrade your master cylinder at any point??
The standard S12/S13 master is 15/16th, the S14, R32 etc masters are all 1". The difference is negligeble, i know of people with the 4 pot conversion and they say it's fine with just the original master. I'm told that once you go to twin pot rears it might be nessessary though.
S14 hubs are a bit of a bitch to fit. Since the hubs don't bolt onto the S13 stub axles you need the S14 stub axle assembly, but since the S14 ball joints are bigger you need to swap them as well, also the bolt spacing on the coilovers uprights is different on the S14. All in all it's a pain in the arse, it's easier to get aftermarket S13 5 stud hubs or get your S13 hubs machined and redrilled.

What have you done to the rear suspension?
It's an IRS with 260lb k-mac springs (60mm lowered from a Z31, they are a little soft for drift) and Project Mu D1 spec rear pads. Thats the extent of the rear suspension mods.

All in all it's a pain in the arse, it's easier to get aftermarket S13 5 stud

Who makes them/retails them? Garage-13 only seem to sell 2nd hand S14 hubs and brakes, I don't think they have anything aftermarket for the job.
This may seem stupid but I really want some Nissan wheels for that vaguely stock look. Like some Z32s or even R32 GTR like the one in the magazine in that other thread everyone's going on about. I think it will be worth the extra money for what I'll save on wheels as it will be very cheap not just to get my every day wheels but also to get some track/drift wheels and they'll still be reasonably big eg. Z32 16x7.5 or GTR 16x8 (not for drift perhaps) S14 16x6.5.

Option 1 garage in QLD sells machined OEM hubs and also billet hubs. It wouldn't be very hard to get stock S13 hubs machined and then redrilled to 5 stud, i have some for the doribird now which will be handy to run the spare pair of 5 stud 17s we have on it :).

Looks good :cheers:

Hmmmm, Talk about 60-0 stops in about 5 feet. Cool shit man!

Well i'm hoping so. I still need slightly longer wheel studs to make myself feel safe but the real problem is that now it's all installed it won't bleed properly.
Since it's a simple caliper swap you would think the problem would lie with the calipers however since the master cylinder was pretty well dry during the swap there could be a problem there to.
Basically the rear circuit bleeds fine, the front circuit pumps fluid and air out of the bleed as you'd expect. It however just keeps on pumping fluid and air and also when you release the brake pedal air bubbles through the master cylinder reservoir. The suggestion i've had is that maybe the caliper had dirt in it, or somthing like that. I have no idea really though. Any ideas would be great, my next course of action is to clamp one of the front brake lines and see if i can isolate the problem area.

personally, i would have put seal (Oaf!! Oaf!!) kits through the calipers first. they're around $20 each from nissan.

a mate of mine had s14 hubs and brakes fitted to his S13 Q's and with the stock master cylinder it has a lot more pedal travel.

if you fit s14 hubs on an s12, i'm talking about the whole hub here, you need to use s13 lower control arms like nebs, but you have to fit GTSt balljoints.

or use S14 lower control arms and S14/S15 coilovers. that way you dont need to change the lower ball-joint

check that you have the calipers on the correct sides, and that you are using the correct brake lines.
make sure the bleed nipples are at the top of the calipers.
I have done this brake conversion on my car and has made a great difference, i have thought about using z32 rears also but at this stage there is really no need

It was the master cylinder seals, i've put in a spare S13 master that i had laying about (after a bit of a clean). Still yet to drive the car though, going to swap the cusco camber tops to a spare pair since these ones are getting rattly and re-doing the front end alignment to have alot less camber (around 2 degrees instead of 6).

are you using the stock castor rods, nebs?? if my memory serves me correct, you've only rebushed the standard ones.

try cutting 6mm out of the crush tubes in the bushes and tighten up the nut on the front like all buggery and see if this increases your castor.

i've done a fair bit of measuring and i reckon this will work. i'm gonna try it out in the next week or so on my other s12 first. it wont be a huge gain, but it's better than nothing.

also, one other thing i measured was the taper and the thickness of the s12 and s13 hubs where the tie-rod end mounts up.

s12's taper is 17mm deep, and has a diameter of 16mm at the bottom, and 14mm at the top.

s13's taper is 19mm deep, and has a diameter of 16mm at the bottom and 15mm at the top.

this is the reason why you cant put the split pin in when you use s12 tie-rod ends in s13 hubs.

are you using the stock castor rods, nebs?? if my memory serves me correct, you've only rebushed the standard ones.
Sorry to say it doesn't :(
I originally used rebushed S12 castor rods, then i got them machined down to 16mm shorter which gave me miles of castor. Then i swapped to S13 control arms and i used R31 skyline castor rods, i also machined these down around 16mm or so for the same ammount of castor as before.
Basically castor is good, much better return to centre etc, a must have drift mod.

you always have to go one up on me dont you?? :p

wont the s12 catsor rods work with the s13 arms?? i was actully thinking of adapting adjustable s13 castor rods to mine.