Browse › Builds & Media ›Build projects
I'm interested in seeing how your fuel cell works out, I might do something like that down the road... I'm getting tired of my pump sucking air below 1/4 tank. :lol:
Though I was just going to cut out the spare well, I didn't really think of the whole rear pan... But I guess you wouldn't really need the old access hole anymore, huh.
R33s, cardboard mockups.. etc..
-dan
Holly crap that is far back! Is that going to make the shifter in an odd spot tho?
looks pretty cool
Prolowtone on 03:11:19 AM / 02-Jan-12Holly crap that is far back! Is that going to make the shifter in an odd spot tho?
If i ever finish getting my car ready i would be up to maybe take a rid out durring the break in of my motor just to see the car :D. I am only 5"8 so i sit almost all the way forewords hahaha, My best friend is your height and he always has the seat pretty far back so i understand now, The shifter should be pretty close to being in the comfortable area
this is all kinda of cool stuff
derek king on 11:58:43 AM / 03-Jan-12this is all kinda of cool stuff
with as far back as you got that you could run a floor mounted pedal box and rest your legs on the floor pan :cool2:
Anyone have any experience with Oil accumulators? Specifically what components are needed for installation, recommended placement etc..
-dan
Accusump makes a kit for about $300.00 you could mount accumulator on the strut tower. are you running baffles in your oil pan? have you starved the motor of oil while drifting?
Goodies arrived from summit....
lets get this party started.. or something.
-dan
Prolowtone on 03:11:19 AM / 02-Jan-12Holly crap that is far back! Is that going to make the shifter in an odd spot tho?
i have never seen that pedal box from Tilton... if you could show a picture of the top of the pedals. are you going with the remote bias control? it looks like a really nice assembly
No, no remote bias for now.. I will just manually set it. I'll have more photos as I start to build the mounting rails, and install them in the car, etc.
In other news.. The rear subframe from a Q45 has the exact same measurement (center to center on the mounting bushings) as an IRS S12. If it were the same length as an S13 subframe this would mean the wheel position would be pulled forward a matter of inches (A ridiculous amount of cutting would follow).. However, it also appears to be LONGER by a few inches (as compared to an S13).
This could mean there is a remote possibility that with the exception of the rear mounts (which are easier to do, IMO) the Q45 subframe may simply drop in. I will know by this weekend.
-dan
Fingers crossed! Have you considered modifying the subframe ? I've often wondered if it were possibile - I doubt it's any more extreme than cut and shut suspension arms. :)
My first version of the S13 subframe swap was done that way, modified it to the S12 mounts.. It worked quite well until I destroyed it on a curb and needed to redesign the whole enchilada.
So, it appears the Q45 subframe was close, and while it COULD be made to work quite easily, I opted not to due to time constraints and the ready availability of S13 parts.
Some comparison shots of the two:
The Q45 subframe loosely fitted. You can see the front diff mount 'member' is far to thick and hit the floor pan. On an S12 with a long snout diff, this area is much thinner overall..
Rear mounts dont line up much better than S13 either.
Oh yes, and as you can see - we have flipped the car..
Fixing rust holes, mounting the subframe, coaxing my floor pan into place, and plumbing fuel and brake lines will be the name of the game while the car is inverted.
-dan
Cool, Making steady progress.
did you use a rotiserie or how did you flip that girl on her back LOL
BattleFairy on 05:19:50 AM / 01-Feb-12did you use a rotiserie or how did you flip that girl on her back LOL
That's awesome, my cars not upside down but I'll be able to get similar pictures with a s13 subframe
On a sra car... Ithis looks awesome keep it up !
David, if you're going to make your own mounting studs (the rods that are affixed to the body that the subframe bushings slide onto) I would be curious to know what you end up using.. I am going to have a machinist friend turn down a solid 7/8" steel rod to a taper, then we are going to thread the end etc..
Beginning the install of the fuel cell..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/fuel_cell.jpg)
-dan
I'm going to keep my eye on this
Keep up the good work
Not really related to the build of my S12, but I've been sliding a rotary powered corolla wagon (A TE72). There was an issue with fuel slosh that I hadn't been informed of, vent lines were the source of this a fire that soon engulfed the whole back end of the car. Be safe kids.
No one was hurt, and my friend Joel made a funny dubstep mashup of the incident. I can be seen screaming 'bring it' (with regards to the fire extinguisher)
that video is hella funny.
is that your corolla?
Yeah, it was kindly given to me by my friend Quinn. I am not allowed to wash it, paint any welds, install an interior, or any such things.
It needs a fuel surge tank though, it drains the carb bowls on corners.
-dan
well please take lots of pic's on this s13 rear end swap.
Fuel cell cage is pretty much complete:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0940.jpg)
The beginnings of a firewall engine enclosure:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0939.jpg)
We were trying to figure out the best way to determine the approximate centerline of the subframe relative to the wheel well.. I had rubbing issues last year and I want to try to at least TRY to make my car symmetrical.. Short of a chalk line or laser this was our next best idea. We measured back from the door jamb and then straight up to the wheel well, the used a ghetto 'plumb bob' to center the subframe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0941.jpg)
Beginnings of my hydro ebrake mount, and pedal box mount which I am suprememly unhappy with - the nasty cross pieces of metal and just to hold the two sections together so they don't move independently.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0942.jpg)
Car is behind schedule, I am waiting on subframe mounting rods from a friend.
-dan
something you might try is bolted front subframe back in and measuring from center of hub back to center of rear hub and use the stock wheel base measurment
i really think what you are doing is interesting
Thanks!
I threw out the original rear subframe about 6 years ago. And wheelbase (as in length of car overall) comes second to the subframe being square in the car and the wheels sitting relatively centered. Also, it looks like to tuck the subframe up as high as I can I will need to cut, notch, and rebuild the frame rails (an 8" section) - which is not really a big deal considering the extent of metal already replaced on the car.
Also, on S13s when you lower them there is a tendency for the rear upper control arm to rub the strut/coilover. I want to try to negate this effect while maintaining a reasonable pinion angle. Last thing I need is a strut binding into a control arm, or my u-joints bursting.
Was looking at the front end of the car, and thinking about how much I would like to just tube the whole front - but there is no time for that. I am optimistically hoping to have the car moving under it's own power by June 1st (Thats 2012).
Things yet to do:
-Actually mount rear subframe
-POR 15 entire underbody
-Seam sealer
-Prime entire shell
-Rotate car right side up
-Build fuel system from scratch
-Mount pedal box
-Plumb clutch and brake lines (entirely new lines needed)
-Create throttle linkage
-Mount seats
-Install harnesses (May require harness bar)
-Fabricate exhaust manifold
-Fabricate 3" downpipe
-Shorten driveshaft
-Finalize oil pan welding (sump was relocated)
-Extend oil pickup
-Shorten S13 knuckles to match relocated steering rack, minimizing bumpsteer, 0 ackerman
-De pin and reloom remaining sections of chassis wiring harness
-V mount rad/intercooler
-Paint?
Hahahaha. The list is ridiculous, and no one in their right mind would try to have it done by June.. But I am not of sound mind - so here we go.
-dan
I have faith, it can be done
Jesse, have you seen how fast Shawn B is tubing his FC?
What I would do for a plasma cutter, car lift, and tube bender.. hahah, it would make my life infinitely easier.
-dan
All i can say is good luck! You got quite the plateful. I Have to see this car once its done LOL
Subframe mounting studs are done!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/418145_10150589216951712_505331711_9145723_1478539485_n.jpg)
-dan
^^ wow beautiful. :)
this is looking great man, see it through!
Def awesome!
I just want to come down there, crash my car, and drink beer
joined. I see Trevor is already joined there lol, no surprise
Oh hai.. Those look like subframe mounts in their final position. Could it be?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/subframe.jpg)
-dan
PHOTO DUMP.
So using some math, a level, hammer, tape, measuring tape, and angle grinder we aligned and installed the subframe..
The FSM is useful here since it has OEM body alignment points that you can first check then use as a reference. The trickiest things to find A) The center line of the car B) the wheel well center (something that is open to interpretation).
Ultimately I wanted it to be level, centered (within reason.. Wheel spacer?), and not toed in on one side and out on the other like it was previously.
Would I recommend doing this? Probably not.
-dan
Hurr durr, photo dump..
Car is gonna get flipped this week back to its upright position..
I HEART this car..
Fuel lines big enough to support 1000bhp, not that i'll ever need it. 
-8 AN fuel system
I also love seam sealer
Cutting out inner fenders, gonna need to patch them.. doing an agressive roll out instead of box flares.
Steering column hole, bulkhead fittings, and blanked off brake master hole.
Tilton pedal box, accelerator cantilever system built. It is a bit jank but works..
The beginnings of an all aluminium oil pan, was going to cnc the plate, but I've opted to cut out the flange on a bandsaw instead.
Overall ish
I started my tubular exhaust manifold too, it is not going to be equal length, but will be twin scroll an as beefy as I can make it..
-Dan
this is my favorite build ever so far, keep it up man!! cant wait to see it all rolling around, looks like youve got alot of time invested here!
Car is flipped, sat in it for the first time in months.. I am 6'3" and I do not fit.. More hammering and seat purchasing is needed.
Tilton pedal box is GREAT but takes up alot of space horizontally, I would not recommend this for tall drivers.
Thanks David, and way way too much time invested...
-dan
i don't understand the pedal box. why do they have a master cylinder for your throttle?
It is a brake balance bar, the front and rear braking systems are separated into two separate master cylinders. They do this in lieu of a standard master cylinder w/integrated proportioning valve which sets line pressure (typically to 70/30 front/rear). You can adjust the fulcrum of the bar, and alter the amount of leverage applied to each master cylinder, which effectively dictates the line pressure ratios. Due to all the adjustability you can actually RAISE front brake line pressure which normally would be a finite maximum and you are stuck lowering the rear line pressure.
What does all this mean? It means I could theoritically bias my brakes heavily to the rear, or go with 50/50 split. As you probably know this would be incredibly handy when drifting for scrubbing off speed. It will take me quite some time to dial it in, since I know only theoretical 'facts' about brake performance and setup.
-Dan
So.. Car is flipped, and I am really digging for motivation to finish this thing.. So I started slapping things onto it to make it seem more like the finish line is closer than I imagine..
S13 BN kit front bumper
P45r 17x9.5 et25 wrapped in toyo R compounds
Top view of my fuel cell / battery containment cage
Engine bay stuff
Brake and clutch line bulkhead fittings, where the booster used to be. For the record, do your research on fittings before buying ANYTHING.. Our cars are metric but metric fittings can be incredibly hard to find. Consider using 3/8 fitting on 3/16 line throughout. In this case I've gone through a -3 AN bulkhead fitting and then adapted with a tube nut and sleeve to a 3/16 line.. I had the most difficult time determining HOW TO ADAPT TO A HARD LINE. I did a shallow flare using a 45 degree flare tool (SAE), although I should have used a 37 degree flare as is the AN (JIC) standard.. But whatever, I will check for leaks. At the end of the day most of my lines will be 3/8 SAE and -3 AN, the only metric left will be on the hydraulic ebrake (which may yet be converted to SAE) and the calipers themselves.
Trans tunnel being pieced together..
Allow me to re-iterate I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING.. This is a best effort build, and now I am on a time crunch..
I hope to be priming the shell in the next 2 weeks, and then beginning "final assembly".. Whatever that means.
At this point, I just want to drive the shit out of this car.. It is built to take a thrashing, and a thrashing it shall receive.
-dan
i wish i was in my twenties again you and David B always put a smile on my face. i was just like you two when i was at your age. i remember being told "you can't do that" and most of the time they were right but it was sure fun trying
i really want to see you behind the steering wheel of this drifting thru some corner
Everything is a learning experience, and now looking back I would have changed a number of way I approached this. Nothing is ever done perfectly though, so I am ok with this fact.
Next orders of business:
-finalize driver and passenger positioning
-Mount drivers "tools" (ebrake, shifter hole, steering column, pedal box)
-Plumb brakes inside car (flex lines to firewall and ebrake)
-Make a harness bar
-Mount harnesses
-Prime entire shell
-Install spare motor
-Fab exhaust manifold
-Fab oil pan
-Rad and intercooler install (v mount)
-Plumb rad and intercooler
-Strip car down again
-Paint
-Install wiring
-Install good motor
- Profit???
I really want this car done by July 1st. I've been putting in super long hours and fingers are crossed that it all comes together.
-dan
Le trans tunnel, oo la la.. C'est terrible.
Some kind of something for steering
g-brake
Silly straps for giggles