RB25det, June 28th deadline - no sleep until completion. then beer.

id rape it on the track.

It IS getting tracked.. I think it has a clutch type diff and it definitely has coilovers.. Need to delete the HICAS and put in a set of racing buckets. It is 5 bolt too so all my wheels/tires will transfer over to it no problem - I even have a set of stock R32 wheels.

let me drift this lol, drifted one before, it was pretty easy but also seemed underpowered when stock

After maybe 10 laps with the skyline I got fed up with it, drove to my shop, swapped wheels, drove S12 back.. Now thats a better drift car..

S12 > skyline

-dan

ive driven some 240's and such and a few corollas but i cant get over how much fun s12's are. perfect wheelbase/weight ratio for higher hp engines.

honestly s12's take inline 6's with not to many problems. i dont really even think of all the weight up there.

fuck i can't wait to drift mine again

Hit a 300 pound tractor tire with rear quarter, trying to get close to an amigo with a flag..

Rear quarter is fubar. Toe arms look to be bent. Car is crab walking.

-dan

+1

Need any parts? I got access to 2 yard with notches. 1 85 sra Ralphs in Mitchel island Vancouver (Would love to buy and track the bitch) and 1 88 irs at Ralphs in Abbotsford

I'm going to be on the mainland this weekend, and equipped with skyline for getting around.. I'll have to pay those yards a visit and gather parts. Thanks for mad tips! I should also get some spare fenders.... derp.

OOOOH, we were talking about DIY widebody done via cutting out the quarters and wheel arch and then laying it on top of a hacked up rear end but spacing it out..

Or better yet, cut out most of the body metal, then overlay with plexiglass in order to get transparent over fenders..

-dan

I wish you and david could do saucy tandems together.

you make me want to move to the island...
Was it Josh drifting the stang again?

It looked good lol. Still need to take a drive over and watch. Ill probably ask Rasta if i can follow him out sometime (Maybe carry some spare tires or tools in my hatch for him).

nice....i was like sweet stang......oh wait wat nah OHHH SHYT HE DRIFTY!!!!?!?!?!?!

RB25sx - SLPR on 01:58:56 PM / 23-Sep-11OOOOH, we were talking about DIY widebody done via cutting out the quarters and wheel arch and then laying it on top of a hacked up rear end but spacing it out..

Or better yet, cut out most of the body metal, then overlay with plexiglass in order to get transparent over fenders..

-dan

Major tear down has begun...

First time the RB25 has been out since originally put in, now thanks to rad support modification I can actually pull it like a normal motor.



I've got a few ideas to stiffen up the chassis, many involve gussets, dimple dies, and braces...



Fuel cell will end up here, but this photo is just for the record (the decrepit state of my trunk.. ghastly)



The car is already almost completely gutted, everything forward of firewall is removed including suspension.. Rear subframe is being dropped this weekend, and then I will build my chassis rotisserie and spit roast the car.. :)

So far, the items that have made it onto the shortlist are:

-Tubbing out front fender wells (More caster, more angle)
-Tucking wire harness (so no rubbing)
-Deleting non essential circuitry in the main chassis harness
-Relocating the motor backwards roughly 5 inches
  -Major firewall modification
  -Possible new exhaust manifold required
-Install  fuel cell and clean up trunk
-Re-affix rear subframe (The last time this will be done.. Tired of ghetto fixes)
-Wire/flapper wheel the entire car, paint primer gray
-New downpipe
-Gauges! (I have been without a tach, temp gauge, oil pressure gauge for the better part of a year)

It's a long list, and it might not all get done this winter - but at least I now have shop space in which to work.. Oh, and theres a remote chance I may end up with megasquirt, and an RB26 - but that would spread my finances awfully thin..

Stay 'tuned'!

-dan

megasquirt for the win!
but be aware that fitting a 36-1 triggerwheel on a RB pulley is a fucking nightmare ;-)

We're going to get tricky with pulleys.. I have a machinist friend who is going to machine the ridge for the AC belt on the pulley to be a 36-1 toothed wheel.. No need to bolt anything to it, just make a bracket to hold the sensor. :S

-dan

Damn cant wait to see the final result

RB25sx - SLPR on 03:25:59 PM / 26-Oct-11We're going to get tricky with pulleys.. I have a machinist friend who is going to machine the ridge for the AC belt on the pulley to be a 36-1 toothed wheel.. No need to bolt anything to it, just make a bracket to hold the sensor. :S

-dan

Picture dump! Haven't had a massive planning session, but soon I will be taking a flapper wheel and paint stripper to essentially the entire chassis.. Once stripped, rust repair is first on the list, then firewall modification and engine test fitting...

Exciting times. And I pose a question.. If a motor is 100% behind the front shock towers - does that technically make the car mid-engined?? 

Almost bare shell



Soon to be heavily modified firewall and fender wells.



She has not been out in years..



I'm investigating a wilwood pedal box, and relocating my accelerator pedal. Reason? Clean up the firewall, more room for turbo manifold, and possibly dual brake master cylinders.

Damn. Making quick progress. "100% behind the front shock towers"< Just what the fook are you up to??? You going back to black or staying white???

Brakes.

Good chance (budget depending) that I will be going with an inboard wilwood pedal box, and I want to know before hand exactly what I am getting myself into here..

The current system is a blend of S12, S13 and Z32 brake components. List as follows:

-S12 pedal assembly and 10" brake booster (Pedal ratio is: 5:1)
-240sx front calipers
-Z32 rear calipers (twin piston)
-S12 15/16" brake master cylinder

Z32 specs are as follows:

Master cylinder: 1"

300ZX front brakes:
- Four piston fixed caliper
- 40.45 piston diaeter
- 324mm diameter rotor
- 50mm wide pad

300ZX rear brakes:
- Two piston fixed caliper
- 38.1mm diameter piston
- 297mm diameter rotor
- 36.5mm wide pad

front brake bias  = 70.3%
rear brake bias = 29.7%

The problem at hand is that the wilwood brake setup offers a choice of master cylinders as well as pedal ratios. To further complicate matters the brake booster will also be deleted, which means that if I am to have brakes that function AT ALL I'll need to do some careful calculations.

The goal here is to correctly size the master cylinder (the smallest possible, without losing the ability to move enough fluid to actually compress the calipers). The pedal box I am looking at uses dual master cylinders with an optional balance bar. This particular one has a pedal ratio of 6.25:1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-340-3342/



More to come on master selection, suspected braking torque levels, and clamping force.

-Dan

wooooooooooooooh.
those pedals are sexy!

keep us updated! :D

More to come on master selection, suspected braking torque levels, and clamping force.

-Dan
 
 
 

RB25sx - SLPR on 02:12:31 PM / 21-Nov-11

What the fuck. I am going to have to c0me out there to try to wrap my head around your project

first fwd s12?!?

wtf? did this just turn into a volvo build????

way toward the beginning of this thread you said you were going to need a longer throttle cable. what cable did you end up using?

this thread brings severe amounts of motivation! I'll be following suit very soon. I already have my engine I'm just waiting until I start my new job next month and then I'll be doing some serious work with many questions for you and colin.

I ended up using an S14 cable that I actually got from Colin, it's longer and does the trick nicely.

More pics tonight hopefully.

-Dan

Cutting out floor pans.. What a marvelous time!

Firewall, a bit of a cut...





Bare shell:



So many god damn spot welds.. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter, and don't get a cheap one as I have learned.. Eastwood makes a good one.





Fuel cell placement, the dotted lines will be cut out, and replaced with a flat sheet, then an incision made and tank support straps sunken down.



Progress is much slower than I expected, but I would rather take my time and do it correctly this time around... At the end of the build a sizable part of the floor pan will have been cut out and replaced..

-dan

If I remember correctly, that was the same cable I used for my RB20 when I had it with a front facing intake from Plazmaman (Australian product). I forget what I'm using now but it's either an S12 or S13, both of which are shorter.

Nice to see you working on this again Dan. If things permit, may be making a visit up there next summer. Got heaps planned but I do know I need to visit you since you're not coming down any time soon. :p

most body supply shops carry the spot weld cutters as you said do not buy cheap ones because they only get 5 or 6 welds and then they are junk would be nice if they made a sharpner for them. i noticed some lines on your strut towers are you planning on work there? we are putting the fuel cell in the same place you are and are going to try to use the fuel door on the car so we dont have to fill on the inside is this your intention also?

we need to tandem someday!

RB25sx - SLPR on 02:02:43 AM / 11-Dec-11So many god damn spot welds.. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter, and don't get a cheap one as I have learned.. Eastwood makes a good one.

David B on 12:33:09 AM / 12-Dec-11we need to tandem someday!

RB25sx - SLPR on 02:19:46 PM / 13-Dec-11There will be tandems inside those tandems, like some kind of infinite tandem loop.

Much cutting, drilling etc..











Need to plan out how I am going to go about building this floor.. It is going to have to be assembled in pieces.. It shall be a very interesting learning experience. I am somewhat upset at all the rust but happy that I will have the opportunity to chop it all out and replace it properly with new steel.

At this point my primary concerns are getting the motor placement correct, and making sure the chassis is square.. I've done my best to make sure it was level and true, but it got bumped around while trying to put the drivetrain back in (very large, and awkward piece an RB25 with trans is)..

-dan

Holly crap, Thats quite a work load! Hope the final result works out as planed.

i think i would have put a couple of temp cross braces in before i cut that much floor out. i think the hard part will be tying the the two sub frame rails back in to the structure. it seems when you drill out spot welds you drill thru both panels when we drill out spot welds with the cutter we just drill thru the first panel is there a reason for this because i would think you could just use a drill bit if you were going to drill all the way thru

Reason is: My spot weld cutter sucked, and broke after the first 20 spot welds. I switched to drill bits.. The panels were so rusty it almost didn't even matter..

As for chassis square-ness.. The shell is a piece of crap anyways, at the end of the day as long as the doors close properly and the car drives straight(ish) I will be happy. Drift cars are almost always broken and bent in some way.

Realistic goals!

-dan

i didnt understand you just building it for a track car (old age i guess) i would plate the inner rocker rails with 1/8" steel plate then build two cross braces to go across the top of trans with square tubing these can be mitered no bending needed and you can tie the sub frames into it and then just add cross bracing if you build a good sub frame then you could just use 16ga sheet metal for the floor

motor placement....the big thing i look at is angle from front to back and side to side. what we do is find the vehicle that the engine came in and using a magnetic protractor get the degrees of both angles and copy them with the new install. when they design these engines they factor in the angle it will be sitting. i try my best to copy that

As far a motor positioning goes, I will be letting the factory 240 crossmember determine the tilt of the motor (Its rotational position when looking at the motor straight on from the front).. This will remain unchanged, RBs tend to list clockwise (towards the exhaust side) by 5 degrees or so. As for the pitch of the motor (relative height of the tail end of the trans).. It will be at a slight downward angle - roughly 2 to 3 degrees.. This is largely due to the requirement for the driveshaft bearings to be flexed to promote greasing. Also, pinion angle needs to be taken into consideration as they need to cancel out any possible harmonics... So if the trans is down 2 degrees, the subframe will be positioned upwards 2 degrees (or more specifically the differential snout).

I've got 20 feet of 1"x2" 1/8" tube that I will be using the brace the floor and create a trans mount similar to the one you describe..  I am also going to extend the frame rails back to the rear subframe pickup points (Or as close to it as I can get).

At the end of the day, if I end up ruining this shell I am ok with that.. It is all a learning experience.

-dan

keep us updated!!! any info on cutting s12's up is what i need at the moment!