JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

CHANGED THREAD MOVED******************************************
NOW A BUILD THREAD FOR THE BLUE S12
not todays adventure lol

ello ello ello people,

i am headed to North carolina to meet up with jaidseye to purchase his 1984 nissan 200sx

here are some pics he gave me,
more pics to come when i get the car




car $450
gas money for freinds truck $115+

excitement of having another S12
priceless

You might want to disconnect the drive shaft. I know its not an auto, but I still have heard some rough stories.

Sounds like a really fun trip.

when do you plan on getting in to town to pick up the car?

Definitely disconnect the driveshaft, its four easy bolts, should be 12mm wrench for the center bolts and 14mm wrench for the bolts at the differential, and if its not a manual then you'll need a long screwdriver or the lug wrench with the pointy end to jam in the driveshaft u-joints to prevent them from spinning while you are loosening.  Only use a regular wrench, ratcheting wrenches won't fit.  The differential bolts are the ones that you should remove, then bring some tie wire with to tie the driveshaft up out of the way.

I LEFT AT 4, and got home at like 230 am lol

why disconnect the driveshaft? oops/

well, i got the car in my garage        



PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW

PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW


PICTURE DUMP TOMORROW

yea sorry red rocket, i came and went. i wanted too see your s12!

Yeah Im sorry I wouldnt have been able to show it to ya anyways during the week I live in greensboro, NC with some friends but on the weekends Im in Goldsboro. The shop where you picked up the s12 (aka Corky) is right down from mine where my car is. its not much to look at right now its filled with parts and has no motor. you could hae seen the cage at least thats about it.

You disconnect the driveshaft so you don't fuck up the trans.  Too late now, hopefully its not a problem

picture dump!




OEM FUCK YEA





i think it will start tonight

and thank you jaidseye,
for this thing, it HELPS


gas was a bitch though

it was about 180
oh, and we used a 16 foot trailer,
so i guess the driveshaft is fine

Too bad jaidedeye sold his 12. But atleast it went to another cs12 member. Interior looks kinda rough but overall the body looks pretty straight. And the black dash is a big plus.

ruff? the interior is perfect,

i dont want the rear interor, the rest needs to just be cplted back together

how do i releive the timing belt tension?

its in that book, the tensioner is located by the water pump. you need a star headed wrench or socket. loosen the star bolts and that relieves the tension. the book will also tell you how to set the tension when you put the belt back on...

the book says that there is bolts, but i cant really get the loose,

hmm.i spin the bolts left? take them off.
do i do anything before that?

ladies and germs theres no need to disconnect the shaft. neutral position works just fine. i towed an auto notch from philly a while back with the prndl in n the whole way. 80s tech isnt that far advanced, remember! lol way to go on the pick db. good luck

i know you like pics, so here it goes (my motor is a ca20e, not sure if that is what you have, but same principal for most tensioners)

star head wrench



loosen both bolts (counterclockwise, or if your english, anti-clockwise) loosen both a couple turns, do not need to remove either bolt completely





that will relieve tension on belt. the fsm says to reinstall you need to align the belt and rotate the motor a couple turns and then retighten both bolts, which will set the correct tension.

RedneckToo bad jaidedeye sold his 12. But atleast it went to another cs12 member. Interior looks kinda rough but overall the body looks pretty straight. And the black dash is a big plus.

interior looked great, just needed assembly! wish i coulda bought it!

bluke1interior looked great, just needed assembly! wish i coulda bought it!

is that a muffler or a jet engine?

It makes a sonic boom!

That will make one really nice car when it is done!

julie
is that a muffler or a jet engine?

its ginormous

julie
its ginormous

ALRIGHT,
UPDATE*********************************************

by myself, and my premature mechanic brain,
i took out the whole intake blah blah
i managed to put on the timing belt, first time changing one (i hope i did it right, it took forever), i bought a brand new one

got all those pulleys back on together,
and, find a battery (relocating it to back)

and TIGHTENED ALL THE SPARK PLUGS, they were all super lose! im so happy i check,
which jaidseye said "they were fine" lol

and i hooked up all the spark plugs and ignition coils

tomorrow, im throwing in some SUPER cheap oil and a oil filter, just to start it, and watch it leak all that oil out probally lol
i gotta find all th disconnected vaccum lines, and connect them

REDROCKET< JAIDSEYE> READ THIS

let me know if i need to look out for anything! im attempting to start this tomorrow,
and you guys are somewhat familiar with das car
alright
goodnight!

EDIT****

question,
does it matter what battery i use?

i have my moms old exploerer sportrac battery because it was kinda dying...

will it work?

did you check the timing before u installed the belt? i think u have to set the engine to TDC, then rotate the camshaft to a certain point BEFORE installing the belt

my nieghbor, i met him today for the first time, and asked him, he hd all the tools i didnt have

we set the lines, to what his book said, and tried to get it right

im SUPER worried about it
but regardless,
i just want the CA20 so i dont have to tow it when i move....
i am saving for a KA regardless. but it would be nice too run

EDIT**

and BTW where do i plug in the aftermarket rad fan?
the power wire is loose

david. the timing marks have to line up at TDC. before you crank the car make sure you turn the motor over by hand.

if you followed the FSM i gave you then you should be ok. also make sure your distributor is stabbed correctly.

sorry about the plugs being loose. i never checked them but i know redrocket changed all that stuff when he had the car before me

David B
EDIT**

and BTW where do i plug in the aftermarket rad fan?
the power wire is loose

take the plugs out before u try and rotate the engine though

well the guy is way more car smart then me, im pretty sure its set right, i did turn it by hand with the plugs out
he has a 7 second 5.0 mustang btw

stabbed correctly.? explain

David B
well the guy is way more car smart then me, im pretty sure its set right, i did turn it by hand with the plugs out
he has a 7 second 5.0 mustang

stabbed correctly.? explain

julie
take the plugs out before u try and rotate the engine though

ugh.
i have the distributor aimed down

i dont know shit, about positions

David B
ugh.
i have the distributor aimed down

i dont know shit, about positions

alright, i agree.

can someone explain these positions?

i kinda remember where the yellow marks are set,

i used the little line on the top of the red cover for the top one, and the bottow one, that little kink, is aimed upwards,

and the lines on the belt, fit perfectly with that

David B
alright, i agree.

can someone explain these positions?

i kinda remember where the yellow marks are set,

i used the little line on the top of the red cover for the top one, and the bottow one, that little kink, is aimed upwards,

and the lines on the belt, fit perfectly with that

see thats what i dont get
the number one plug position wire?
and closed number one cylinder?

and for setting the belt....
what about that metal tab, that comes out of the timing bbelt cover

the number one plug position wire? #1 cylinder position on the distributor cap.. you have two plugs per cylinder but its the same idea. the FSM will show you exactly where it is.

and closed number one cylinder? both valves will be closed at TDC (springs not compressed)

and for setting the belt....
what about that metal tab, that comes out of the timing bbelt cover.. the tab on the lower cover is for checking timing against the crank pulley. there are notches in the crank pulley

the number one plug position wire? #1 cylinder position on the distributor cap.. you have two plugs per cylinder but its the same idea. the FSM will show you exactly where it is.
as i change plug position
does rotating the ditribitor do anything?

should i take the ditributor off, and try again.

should i do timing belt again (i really do not want too)

and, to reach TDC (top dead center),
cant someone just tell me where the yellow mark chills?

im real sorry for being retarded

the fsm has drawings as well as text that describe perfectly what you need to line up. the cam gear has a dot on a tooth that a corresponds with a line on the timing belt. the second line on the timing belt corresponds with a mark on the crank pulley. there are multiple well drawn pics in the fsm that show this. in the last page of the engine overhaul heading in the engine mechanical section of the fsm, it show a picture of a mark on the distributer and says turn camshaft until no 1 piston is at tdc on compression stroke (both valves closed) align dist. gear mark advanced by one tooth with mark on the dist. shaft.
  if you read the book carefully, and look at the supplied drawings, it should be very simple. you make your motor/distributer look like the one in the pictures. its much easier than you make it out to be. and it wouldnt hurt you to read a book on basic automotive principals so you get a better understanding of things like top dead center, firing order, and electrical operation to name a few.

eh,
i just stuck to interior today

put in those sweet door panels!

UGH so fresh!
thanks jaidseye!

two!



i have yet to even wipe these off, and they still look amazing!

jaidedeye
its actually a real HKS muffler. redrocket installed it before i bought the car

David Boh yea JAIDSEYE.. or REDROCKET
i found a reciept from greensboro,
someone went to mcdonalds and only bought 2 sweet teas.
WTF?
boring

lol. i like chik filas better

those door panels are killer! i want a set! oh, and next time you paint, you might want to put down cardboard first so your garage floor doesnt get all messy!

bluke1those door panels are killer! i want a set! oh, and next time you paint, you might want to put down cardboard first so your garage floor doesnt get all messy!

The engine harness does not deal with the talking lady and power windows etc. The KA24DE swap is pretty straight forward. Wiring isn't that hard. I guided turbo_s12 through his ca18det wiring and he had very little issues. It's approximately 15 wires to splice and solder. If you want me to make you a plug-n-play conversion harness, goto the junkyard and get the S12/S13 connectors I need to do it(+ something extra) and I'd gladly do it. You can be my first test mule for it hehe. I was going to do this for my car, BUT I couldn't get 18ET engine connectors(20e ones are different).

mod_mastazThe engine harness does not deal with the talking lady and power windows etc. The KA24DE swap is pretty straight forward. Wiring isn't that hard. I guided turbo_s12 through his ca18det wiring and he had very little issues. It's approximately 15 wires to splice and solder. If you want me to make you a plug-n-play conversion harness, goto the junkyard and get the S12/S13 connectors I need to do it(+ something extra) and I'd gladly do it. You can be my first test mule for it hehe. I was going to do this for my car, BUT I couldn't get 18ET engine connectors(20e ones are different).

Not necessarily. The wiring is pretty much out there. All you really need to get is an S13 KA and the harness will plug right in haha. But I mean if you wanna tackle it yourself go for it. I'll prob try making a conversion harness and testing it out on another car later then hehe. Go and fix up both cars first hehe.

wait so, does the year matter?

bump, thanks for the thread change arro

i cant pop the hood, it seems like the pull has been worn out,

any ideas how to open it? the honeycomb grill is off anyways, and i see the whole setup,

i tried a few things butno luck,
HELP