JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

The s14 headlight looks doope. If you could get some to work, i say do it ( custom brackets?)

D-sport S12The s14 headlight looks doope. If you could get some to work, i say do it ( custom brackets?)

ArroIt's not a good idea, maybe you're getting 13 psi signal in the boost gauge line, but you're overspinning your tiny T25 to do it, meaning you are heating up the air a lot.... so the big IC is only about as effective as a medium or smaller IC.

Also, are we talking T25 or T25G? there's a noticeable difference in the flow map for each.

I would love to see a thermocouple readout before your TB to see how how that air is.

What people tend to forget is that the I/C is already full of air while you are running at idle... when you stomp on the gaz, it doesn't have to "full" first in order to get air to the engine.  Since air as a viscosity, the curent air that sits in the I/C will be pushed by the air comming from the turbo and so on....

That is why you can run a remote mount turbo and still get decent spool time and throttle response.  Don't forget that the lenght of the pipe that connect the turbo to the TB in a remote mount setup as about the same volume or air then this I/C as, if not more.  What a big I/C will add is restriction to the air flow, and a slight drop in pressure, but the bigger volume adds to counter act this effect.  More volume at lower pressure = same flow.  Of course if you are running a turbo to own bragging rights on "how much pressure you can run" it will not do, but if you own a turbo to increase flow (total volume of air that gets IN the engine) in order to make more power, this I/C will get the job done. IMO

Tom

Monster intercooler = Big air tank, it takes time to pressurize.

A T2 with that IC is like trying to fill a car tire with a bike pump, it can be done, but it's gonna take all day!

I know he isn't running a T2, but for the analogy it works.

If it's a bar/plate design, it might flow ok. So performance might not suffer too much, because flow is still "good", but it will take time to pressurize.

That's why I went with a 26"x8"x3" IC with decently tapered end tanks, it might not flow the best, but it's efficiency is really nice. And because of the size, it doesn't take long to fill. Plus I can snake the piping around the radiator and have really short piping.

stop with the i/c battles holy shit make a thread

David Bstop with the i/c battles holy shit make a thread

david i love the trashy east coast style dont stop... but

my problem with modding the look of an S12 is that it makes it harder to recognize as a 200sx.  When peeps see ur car on the course or in a pic u gotta remem that THEY DONT KNOW WTF IT IS and ur mods confuse the issue.  They cant go home and google that shit to find it by pictures lol.  But keep at it u got ur own style goin.  btw ratty fucked up drift cars are whats up in japan lol.
Peep these vids
http://www.vegasdrift.com/forum/index.php/topic,2394.0.html (http://www.vegasdrift.com/forum/index.php/topic,2394.0.html)

gotta start bangin the wall like that white hatch lol.  see that motherfucker eggin him on? he got me crackin up

hopefully arro will have some club-s12.org stickers for sale here soon, then maybe david can rep what he has with a decal.

Well tomorrow's the 2nd, I'll try to get the decal guy on the phone.

Anyways yeah enough IC talk, David gets the message, he'll do what he can with what he has for now.

lol ill make a donation fund for my rear window

ill take a 2 foot by 6 inch club-s12 sticker shipped to my house and ill rock it haha

nice job. im sure if you were to try that in a california summer, you would be begging for some dry ice though. whats the temps there anyway?

stitch weld that bitch up tight david!

my hb frieght angle grinder keeps eating brushes... i dunno why. it keeps overheating and shit. i gotta go grab another one. i think i am gonna stitch weld

Sorry for not googling it up but what's stitch welding good for? More stability and less body twist?

that is exactly it praizewood. Almost all fully prepped race and drift cars are stitch welded...it make the chassis so much stiffer. And then throw a cage on top of that and bam, you have have a drift, track, or rally tank.

PraizewoodSorry for not googling it up but what's stitch welding good for? More stability and less body twist?

Do both interior AND bay or you just wasted your time... tighening up just one area puts all the stresses on the remaining areas, and the bay has the suspension.

ArroDo both interior AND bay or you just wasted your time... tighening up just one area puts all the stresses on the remaining areas, and the bay has the suspension.

Anyways you've take the time to do everything else, I'm sure it will turn out good. great thing about stitch welding, it doesn't have to be pretty to work, so if you start on the inside, by the time you get to the bay, your shit will look good I bet.

it worth it trust me.  fill it with foam too.  Gonna do mine next time its apart.

shit.

i was down in richmond all weekend, i should have stopped by.

so ive been reading around

about stitch, spot, and seam welding

sad thing is im using a arc lincoln weldpack 100 of might!

should i stop and turn around or will this welder do the job

and with spot welding, and stitch welding, not sure of which to do. since im a novice welder. im taking a welding class but havent started yet. ill be doing some practice welds and posting them up here tonight

are these areas i can stitch up?

my angle grinder brokeded and is eating brushes. so for now im just stripping the paint everywhere that looks like it needs work

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3959.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3960.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3961.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3962.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3963.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3964.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3965.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3966.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3967.jpg)

decided to try a section. boy do i suck at this. im not sure if im strengthening the chassis or weakening it  

i need a gas welder

(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3968.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3969.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/whatrwedoingnow/100_3970.jpg)

I've been using the same welder, its my buddies.  ue wire speed is good on 2-3 but u need to CRANK the heat all the way up.  no birdshit beads and you can move faster.

ur stitching the wrong way as well.  go along the seam in 1" to 1.5" beads.  Do the structural areas first and then decide if u wanna do more.  And you'll have to remove the seam sealer.  Sterling described trouble welding on seams with seam sealer because of the sealer bubbling.  Not that he couldnt get the welds done, just that it was an annoyance.  Ur on the right track doin the floor supports keep it up.

do the bay.  foam the pillars and rails.  dope s12 chassis

well the welds usually penetrate and sit lower, but i always go back over them because im a faggt

and going across the seam... thats seam welding.. isnt it?

no seam welding is when u weld the entire length of the seam up solid.  u dont wanna do that.  too much heat it'll distort the car.

googled it

u can just tack the seams but make the tacks closer together like they did on this car.  pretty sick build
http://www.intecracing.com/Lawrence240.htm (http://www.intecracing.com/Lawrence240.htm)

or
(http://mestiso.net/photogallery/240/CIMG2867.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/345ikadizzle/240sx%20Build/StichWeldandPaint002.jpg)

no need to go back over anything.  MAX the heat and keep the wire a bit slow.  Then you can weld fast and get shit done quicker

youre on the right track! that SR will scream man, you will be very happy with it.

David B
and am i using the sr driveshaft? or will ka work

Arrothe beauty of the KA trans is that most of the time all you need to do is a bellhousing swap for the SR bellhousing and away you go. Same goes for the S12 Mark II trans.

demonic s12youre on the right track! that SR will scream man, you will be very happy with it.

David Bi have a full sr trans though, i was just wondering if the overall length of the bellhousing was different

So why dont you weld the whole seem. why only sections?

methylpropSo why dont you weld the whole seem. why only sections?

are you going to use a filler after your done?
btw, david I read somewhere that you are into scat is this true?

methylpropare you going to use a filler after your done?
btw, david I read somewhere that you are into scat is this true?

David Bscat!?

David Bscat!?

trans is same, driveshaft is same lenght, only difference is ka driveshaft has rubber guibo, sr uses a ujoint.

looking good david when i take my trip out to the east coast to visit the fams im hitting you up! sick shit with the sockets dude...

I will toss in my 2cents with the welding here.

the lincoln wp100 will do the job just fine.  I've done all major structural repairs and reinforcements with it on all the cars I've done.

Stitch or seam welding is a bitch.  not only do you have all the surface prep time, but all the seam sealer shit that is actually IN the seams will NOT come out with any form of tool save a torch, and will bubble up and make welding a pain in the ass.  You will also likely warp the chassis a bit, mine sure did.

A cage is both simpler and similarly effective stiffening-wise.  and when you hit something, the whole chassis doesn't take the blow, so its an easier more localized repair.  good for drifting.

my vote is save the time and effort and just put a cage in it.

I would put up some pics for you, but I cannot access my photobucket, and I don't remember the email addy I used to register it, which is a bitch, considering I've got hundreds of photos there.  Its only been 6 months or so, what fucking bullshit.

there u have it

quit fuckin around and cage it

chassis>engine

haha I fuckn cracked it!

Seam welding,
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_0735.jpg)

stitch welding,
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll291/cheetahblue/chassis/IMG_0739.jpg)
the strange looking bead above I think is some of the burn-thru/penetration from the other side iirc...

stitching can also be short 1" or so beads with gaps in between as well.  This ^ type of spot/stitch is much quicker tho.

not something I'd care to repeat, unless I had the chassis acid dipped to remove all paint and sealer, then maybe I'd do this, but again, a cage is just easier imo, and less work/transferable if you wreck it bad.

...but a whole lot heavier.

yeah, but he'll have the power to overcome it.  not to mention the weight is relatively evenly distributed...

what brand wastegate is that?

kyskaterwhat brand wastegate is that?

PraizewoodIt's a flux capacitor duh

kyskaterwhat brand wastegate is that?