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VG30DE??

Started by 87-2hundie · Feb 17, 2011 · 55postsSMF 2010–26

87-2hundieFeb 17, 2011, 3:17 pm · #1

hey guys i got a question for ya'll i found this parts car 1990 300zx with a VG30E and was woundering whats the deal with that swap. like its the whole car so i got ECU wiring harness etc. could anyone one point me in a good direction for this swap like what would i be getting myself into?? cause at first i was just going to do a gay sohc ka swap cause how cheap that swap is but i found this parts car for 500 bux! And the VG only has 175000 and new injectors lol My concerns are using stock s12 rear subframe and drivetrain, like i know i could'nt use my tranny and probs the driveshaft aswell :( but can the s12 rear end hold up with the VG30E?? And another question what kinda mods would have to be done up in the engine bay? Ill look through the "ENGINE TECH" forum to resurch awsell but any help would be a big win:) Thanks bro's

RedneckFeb 17, 2011, 4:06 pm · #2

First off, I think you are referring to the vg30de not the vg30e. The 90 300zx is the z32 which came with the vg30de but you keep refering to it as the vg30e. As for your other questions:

You'll probably need an SE engine crossmember because according to your profile you have an 87 ca18et which has a different crossmember then the v6's. These can be fairly hard to find and pricey sometimes (200-300ish).

The s12 rear end (especially the r200 which you have) will handle a vg30de just fine. You might be able to get away using your s12 C tranny on the vg30de with a bellhousing swap but I am kinda doubting it. Driveshaft most likely will have to be custom made.

Engine bay mods to make it fit are kinda up in the air. Not many guys have done the vg30de swap into the s12 but it definetly will fit. Because of this your probably likely to not find much info on the swap when you search the forums for info.

Honestly 500 bucks for the whole z32 parts car is super cheap. You should have most everything there you need for the swap besides the crossmember and a few other parts. HOWEVER, especially into a 4 cylinder s12, it is a pretty uncommon and more challenging swap. Because of how custom it is your probably going to end up paying at least a thousand or two extra on all the small stuff that will add up. I know the ka is just a ka but the vg30de would be a lot more work. If you don't mind a bigger project, are decent at fabrication (or have access to someone that can fabricate stuff for fairly cheap) and have at least an extra thousand or two for the small stuff I don't see why you couldn't go for the vg30de swap. On the other hand, if you want something that will be fast and easy with no fabrication (or next to no fabrication anyway) that is going to be a lot cheaper the ka24 would be the more ideal route.

JordanFeb 17, 2011, 5:33 pm · #3

First off, welcome to the forum. All your questions have been answered on the forum and are saved in the correct section.

You need to do a lot of reading first. The 1990 300zx is very different that an S12. It has a VG30de, not a VG30e. Suspension/rear end is completely different as well.

Sorry Redneck, I didn't see your post before mine. If your car is set up for a 4cyl I say go that way unless you have money and access to the parts Redneck mentioned. If you want to use the Z32 I say find a SE that is ready for a V6 to begin with. But the general opinion seems to be go for a KA or SR and be done with it. In the end it will cost you less time and money.

SlickS12Feb 17, 2011, 9:04 pm · #4

Its the going opinion that swapping a DE motor into this chassis is not only expensive, its an extensive project, pretty costly, and nobody has ever done this yet and that is why... but GL man!

EightySix200SXFeb 17, 2011, 11:45 pm · #5
SlickS12 on 09:04:44 PM / 17-Feb-11Its the going opinion that swapping a DE motor into this chassis is not only expensive, its an extensive project, pretty costly, and nobody has ever done this yet and that is why... but GL man!

actually one person has done a VG30DETT swap a red hatch, and one has done a VG30DE as well but never finished.

THERE ALSO WAS A SUPER DOPE VE30DE!!! YES FWD "J30 CHASSIS" (89-94 maxima) VE motor! the VQ series' daddy! someone was int the process it was a sick build but they never finished it. full custom!

talk about extensive yes. and talk about no room to work on the bitch once its in. i have a z32 and its wider than a s12 its a bitch to work on in N/A form too. 220hp na though? not to shabby it be fun! do it!
fyneyoungstunnaApr 8, 2011, 11:12 am · #6

if thats all the hp you want...250 something is the record on an NA vg30de, then yes its a good swap, tq and hp are all there. no custom driveshaft needed if you get a trans from a z31 or s12se.

But, and this is a BIG BUT, if you want any more hp then you will hate yourself for buying an NA vgDE because without a deep wallet its just not going to happen. Even little stuff on the vg is expensive to buy,costly to maintain,and is very tempramental!

A ka would be a better choice....dont beleive me...check out the KA24de z32 swap......

silvertonApr 8, 2011, 2:04 pm · #7
EightySix200SX on 11:45:09 PM / 17-Feb-11THERE ALSO WAS A SUPER DOPE VE30DE!!! YES FWD "J30 CHASSIS" (89-94 maxima) VE motor!

Ehhh... the VE is basically a VG, they just had to angle the heads more to fit the hood clearances of the maxima.
SyphonS12Jun 8, 2011, 10:27 pm · #8

question on mounts?? did you use stock ones? or did you fabricate some?? i heard that 7m mounts would work also


Post Merge: 11:13:46 PM / 08-Jun-11
wait wtf how did i post on this lol
radoublelyJul 6, 2011, 7:36 pm · #9

Who's ready to see the VG30DE start up in my car?  Oh yeah! saw it this week baby! fuel and everything.  Final video should be next week ;)

note: When you do the custom driveshaft just get polyeurathane bushings.  Tore the original from the 300z portion of the car already... Back to the laboratory!
@SyphonS12 the original motor mounts will work (except for the transmission mount if you are starting with the SEV6), but get some polyeurathane mounts all around.  Don't go cheap on this one, it can cost you expensive parts and if not caught soon enough a driveshaft up YOU.

radoublelyJul 16, 2011, 10:12 pm · #10
87-2hundie on 03:17:30 PM / 17-Feb-11hey guys i got a question for ya'll i found this parts car 1990 300zx with a VG30E and was woundering whats the deal with that swap. like its the whole car so i got ECU wiring harness etc. could anyone one point me in a good direction for this swap like what would i be getting myself into?? cause at first i was just going to do a gay sohc ka swap cause how cheap that swap is but i found this parts car for 500 bux! And the VG only has 175000 and new injectors lol My concerns are using stock s12 rear subframe and drivetrain, like i know i could'nt use my tranny and probs the driveshaft aswell :( but can the s12 rear end hold up with the VG30E?? And another question what kinda mods would have to be done up in the engine bay? Ill look through the "ENGINE TECH" forum to resurch awsell but any help would be a big win:) Thanks bro's

Let me be the first to really talk smack about this swap being the only person on this forum with the swap lol (no offense guys, but the VG30DE is sitting in my car)

1. You're going to want to not buy a used VG30DE from a Junkyard.  Buy the entire setup from a certified JDM motor company.  You can get the motor, transmission, wiring harness and ECU with accessories for about $1,800 shipped and delivered.  http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/contact are the guys I used.

2. Is your car an SE V6? if you answer is no, reconsider some other swaps and call me in the morning J/K.  This is pretty important, because if it is an SE-V6 you already have the single overhead cam v6 VG V6 engine crossmember and you're much much closer to making the swap.

3.  New driveshaft.  Be ready to buy it.  I used a combination of a 300zx driveshaft in the rear and 240 in the front, and we CUT AND BALANCED this setup.

4. Rear diff.  if you have an sev6 OR a TURBO model you have an R200 diff, this may be IS an open diff or a clutch LSD depending on the model. The turbo R200 is a 4.11, and the SE V6 diff is a 3.90. The 3.90 will be better for higher horsepower applications, as the 4.11 will just spin the wheels way too easy in higher power ranges, leaving your first and second gears useless, and your top speed hampered. check it out, if it is an open diff an 88-89 300zx turbo diff will be clutch LSD.
 
5. Be prepared for custom piping all around.  The stock headers on the 300zx will run right into your frame and that's no-bueno.  A good map for the piping is actually off an infiniti J30 ;) so don't be afraid to play around but that stuff pretty much works like lucky charms on acid.

6. You have 2 THREE transmission options, the original transmission on your car can mount up with a few mods but there is a shit aftermarket for it.  My advice is take some time, make some room and a few cuts, move the shift lever, and work out a shorter e-brake and slap on the heavier duty can take anything and has an aftermarket 300zx trans. You should be able to also use a KA/SR S13/S14 transmission with a bellhousing swap, but note that this will also relocate the shifter back. Search for the KA swaps for more info and pictures.

7.  Guess what? you're going to have to make a transmission mount (if you have an se-v6 that is use any other transmission than an S12 C-trans).  As far as mounts go, I'd say grab some polyeurathane shit and get that beast in. There has been some success using square tube stock from home improvement stores as a basis for a solid trans mount on Mark II cars. Mark I cars have more of a variety of mounts depending if your car began its life as an automatic, manual nonturbo, or turbo, so you Mark I peeps will need to make something specific to your car.

8.  Wiring.  A bitch.  Please seek professional help.  Really. 

9.  You'll have to cut the webbing on the hood.  Yes. 

10. This isn't a step 1-whatever instruction guide, but it should give you a clue as to what you're getting yourself into and help avoid the pains I went through whle SVS in El Paso pioneered the swap.  Look them up, http://www.txsvs.com/ is their website, they are masters of the VG series motor and have painstaikingly designed and engineered the swap done in my VG30DE powered s12.

Remember, My suspension setup is a custom fab/tien coilover setup and my brakes are from an s14 with slotted cross drilled rotors and steel braided lines.  I use stickier tires and wider diameter and larger rims.  A car set up like mine will cost around 10k to have built  (I have a reciept somewhere lol).  But that's not a lot of money considering stock the VG30DE puts out around 225 to the flywheel and it's a lightweigh RWD sports car with suspension and everything to go with it.  I'd say be ready to part with a lot of your bank account but don't skimp out on the essentials when building a car.  Clutch and flywheel upgrades while the motors out? A LOT CHEAPER.  I hope this helps man, good luck.
ArroJul 17, 2011, 5:01 am · #11

I'm editing a couple things in your post to clarify some things, but otherwise it supports what I've been saying in the Swap Guide... very good insight you have there.

methylpropJul 17, 2011, 5:11 am · #12

vg30dett or bust.

radoublelyJul 17, 2011, 11:56 am · #13
Arro on 05:01:22 AM / 17-Jul-11I'm editing a couple things in your post to clarify some things, but otherwise it supports what I've been saying in the Swap Guide... very good insight you have there.

No problem, seems like I missed out on a few points/wording/and options while doing this swap.  I'm fairly pleased with the finished product so far and am looking forward to getting out on the track back home (Sandia Motor Speedway is my home course and me and my old car club are going to have a reunion of sorts).  The last thing I really want to stress is with a good suspension setup, brake setup, and proper installation this is a very usable and functional car with decent HP and Torque numbers that handles really well.   I did move the battery to the back and lost some weight up front to help restore the weight distribution.

I'd also like to point out that I consider myself a decent "weekend warrior" mechanic but with all the custom fabrication that went went in to this build and without serious time on my hands due to my job I felt much better with this in the hands of real professional tuners.  This isn't to say don't attempt so much as to say "attempt with caution" lol.  Let me know if you have any questions on the build and if I can't answer them I can send them to my mechanic.
Wolf DilworthJul 17, 2011, 3:47 pm · #14

Hey radoublely

You stated the wiring is a PITA. Can you elaborate?  I realize there is a interlink with ABS and such. Did anyone create a list of items that need addressing and their fixes?

radoublelyJul 19, 2011, 8:30 pm · #15
Wolf Dilworth on 03:47:35 PM / 17-Jul-11Hey radoublely

You stated the wiring is a PITA. Can you elaborate?  I realize there is a interlink with ABS and such. Did anyone create a list of items that need addressing and their fixes?

Well, let me start by saying I kept the ABS out of the equation.  The main problem you're going to notice is that the VG30DE and accompanying transmission are actually very advanced for early 90's vehicles and is therefore, complex.  Not only did this cause difficulty with the body harness of the s12 but also you're going to have to keep in mind that your tach and speedo gauges are not going to work because an SEv6 200sx is a fly-by wire car and the 300zx is an alien space vessel in comparison.  The VG30DE is also a very HOT running motor.  This means even with low mileage motors from Japan, there's still a likelihood of you needing to track down wiring components/bits and pieces.  You should not only have the proper tools, but the right know-how just because of this huge factor.
ArroJul 19, 2011, 8:39 pm · #16

I don't understand why you can't just swap the bellhousing to an S12 SE bellhousing, and use an S13/S14 or S12 "C" transmission...?

Wolf DilworthJul 19, 2011, 9:15 pm · #17

^^^  There is an issue with the Flywheel clearance...  Re-drill the VG30E flywheel and you could use the 71-C

tommyJul 19, 2011, 10:27 pm · #18
Wolf Dilworth on 09:15:25 PM / 19-Jul-11Re-drill the VG30E flywheel and you could use the 71-C

I would add that you better FUCKING know what you are doing if you really want to redrill a 6 bolt flywheel into an 8 bolt flywheel... that thing is spinning right by your legs and is protected by 1/4 inch of alloy bellhousing... if all the holes are not perfectly alligned or are not exactly the diameter of the bolt that hold it, then you are running the risk of having a 20lbs steel disk surrended with 100+ teeth flying your way... and this always ends badly....
radoublelyJul 19, 2011, 10:32 pm · #19

I have some photos here that should help point out the points you have to bang out the undercarriage body for the VG30DE trans, my decision to go with this option was partly to avoid flywheel customization and also directly related to aftermarket availability in the DE trans.  The fact is, you're much better supported for future modifications by keeping with the motor that comes in the JDM engine exchange package.  Yes, we're looking into wheel speed sensor/heads up display combo for the speedo and an aftermarket tach.

note: I did not include a photo of the cut we made for the shift lever which sits further back in the vehicle.

posted image

posted image

Wolf DilworthJul 20, 2011, 9:53 am · #20
tommy on 10:27:12 PM / 19-Jul-11I would add that you better FUCKING know what you are doing

Tommy

I never said it was easy, but a competent machine shop can do it.  Yes I agree 100% that it is absolutely critical to have the work done properly.  Not just any shop is up to the task, and many will not do it just for the liability.  It is an involved process and would prolly negate most folks attempting it.
radoublelyJul 20, 2011, 8:05 pm · #21
Wolf Dilworth on 09:53:34 AM / 20-Jul-11
Tommy

I never said it was easy, but a competent machine shop can do it.  Yes I agree 100% that it is absolutely critical to have the work done properly.  Not just any shop is up to the task, and many will not do it just for the liability.  It is an involved process and would prolly negate most folks attempting it.

Right, and considering those factors though and the aftermarket support, I am satisfied with my decision to go with the DE trans.  If you're planning a carbon fiber driveshaft anyway ;) why fret a few dings in the undercarriage so you can get the DE trans in?
ArroJul 20, 2011, 9:22 pm · #22

I concur with that logic.

tommyJul 22, 2011, 2:56 pm · #23
Wolf Dilworth on 09:53:34 AM / 20-Jul-11
Tommy

I never said it was easy, but a competent machine shop can do it.  Yes I agree 100% that it is absolutely critical to have the work done properly.  Not just any shop is up to the task, and many will not do it just for the liability.  It is an involved process and would prolly negate most folks attempting it.

I just mentioned it before some lunatic try to do that in his garage with a press drill and a 99$ stick welding pack ;)
Wolf DilworthJul 22, 2011, 9:46 pm · #24

I too, will go with the DE tranny when I get to that stage...

boost addictJul 24, 2011, 12:22 pm · #25

3rd on retaining the DE trans.  I will be using one or a DETT trans when I get that far.  They are the same trans internally, only differences are for the flywheel size.  As long as you use the matching flywheel for the trans, you will have no issues.  If you use an NA flywheel and a TT trans, you will have to mill down the area where the starter mounts for proper starter engagement.  If you use a TT flywheel and an NA trans, you will have to grind a few spots inside the bellhousing to clear the larger flywheel and also shim the starter out from it's mounting location.  Z1 motorsports and ConcetZperformance, both sell the custom shim for this purpose.

radoublelyJul 24, 2011, 5:19 pm · #26
boost addict on 12:22:41 PM / 24-Jul-11
3rd on retaining the DE trans.  I will be using one or a DETT trans when I get that far.  They are the same trans internally, only differences are for the flywheel size.  As long as you use the matching flywheel for the trans, you will have no issues.  If you use an NA flywheel and a TT trans, you will have to mill down the area where the starter mounts for proper starter engagement.  If you use a TT flywheel and an NA trans, you will have to grind a few spots inside the bellhousing to clear the larger flywheel and also shim the starter out from it's mounting location.  Z1 motorsports and ConcetZperformance, both sell the custom shim for this purpose.

Exactly, aftermarket support is THERE for the DE trans just because of the popularity of the z32.  My focus for this vehicle is to show that a good road-course car can be built and ready to race for 1/2 the budget of some of these new, heavier, hulks of vehicles.  Expect a picture dump on this thread in approximately 3 weeks.  I'll try to divvy up what belongs in the motor swap section and what belongs in suspension, however I do intend on briefly explaining my suspension/brake/weight distribution changes HERE purely for the fact that if you're going to consider this swap, you have to ultimately consider the car as a whole.

Preview of the VG30DE powered s12... Coming.  Soon.

posted image
Wolf DilworthJul 24, 2011, 11:17 pm · #27

Sorry, but those credentials sound like ass.  LOL

You said that you had fixed the timing, didn't you?

Better vid?

radoublelyJul 25, 2011, 1:31 pm · #28
Wolf Dilworth on 11:17:30 PM / 24-Jul-11
Sorry, but those credentials sound like ass.  LOL

You said that you had fixed the timing, didn't you?

Better vid?

3 weeks.  I have sent a mold of the driveshaft in to be made carbon fiber, we are waiting on delivery of a few parts before the build is complete.  Friday I am leaving somewhere tropical for my honeymoon and upon my return I expect all remaining parts to be delivered.  My internet WILL BE OFF because I will be doing what you're supposed to do on a honeymoon.  3 Weeks, I hope you've enjoyed the preview, any more media release I will be conducting for my s12 will be as a finished product.
radoublelySep 14, 2011, 12:17 pm · #29
radoublely on 01:31:02 PM / 25-Jul-11
3 weeks.  I have sent a mold of the driveshaft in to be made carbon fiber, we are waiting on delivery of a few parts before the build is complete.  Friday I am leaving somewhere tropical for my honeymoon and upon my return I expect all remaining parts to be delivered.  My internet WILL BE OFF because I will be doing what you're supposed to do on a honeymoon.  3 Weeks, I hope you've enjoyed the preview, any more media release I will be conducting for my s12 will be as a finished product.

http://youtu.be/Ctx2rwbaNWw
fyneyoungstunnaDec 12, 2011, 10:06 pm · #30

someone turbo d an NA vg30de recently with good results. used stock block and bottom end. pushing 600+ hp.....
I say Do it!

MaxpowDec 12, 2011, 10:33 pm · #31
radoublely on 12:17:40 PM / 14-Sep-11
http://youtu.be/Ctx2rwbaNWw

"video is private"
radoublelyDec 20, 2011, 5:18 am · #32
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNgLHTYBREI should correct the problem.  The guys at Special Vehicle Services (El Paso, TX) are currently working on paint, roll cage, seats, and tuning while I"m deployed.  I just stopped by to check the forums real quick.
Wolf DilworthDec 21, 2011, 12:25 am · #33

Looking good, I would have done a few thing differently with the exhaust. 

I understand they were trying to keep the pipes equidistant but that Y was just ugly.

Sounds sweeeeet...

radoublelyDec 24, 2011, 3:15 am · #34
Wolf Dilworth on 12:25:24 AM / 21-Dec-11
Looking good, I would have done a few thing differently with the exhaust. 

I understand they were trying to keep the pipes equidistant but that Y was just ugly.

Sounds sweeeeet...

Yeah, the Y wasn't the prettiest, but not only did it require being equal length (which could have been done more smoothly), I also personally requested that the exhaust be tucked away as much ass possible (If you note, there are places where a lower exhaust would have looked better because of more space, but been less protected).  Anyway, the 2.5 inch piping did come out well.  Just waiting on brake install and race prep at this point (cage, seat, harnesses), of course, I won't be back for a while but I'm looking forward to working with the car on the track and auto-x. 

Right now, photos are a little behind schedule, but I'm expecting another video.  The lightweigh flywheel REALLY made a difference, at first I didn't think the pedal position was right (back with the vg30e) but the DE on a light flywheel setup rev matches so quickly in the heel-toe that it took just a tap with the heel and you're up to the right RPM for the shift.

A quick note on understeer, it does understeer more than I was hoping for.  This is a suspension issue generally, but I put a heavier motor in the front so we can address it here as well.  I'm going to focus on a carbon fiber hood, the battery has been (track legal) relocated to the rear of the car, and loosen the suspension in the front.  So far, the battery hasn't made a huge difference so when I get back to the US I'll start testing at track days and see what happens (maybe they'll let me run with the hood off later in the day?).

What else... Oh! shroud the air filter and be sure to check all your air sensor thingies! For some reason, turbulant air really messes with the ECU and so either put the filter a distance away from the MAF or shroud it... we found that even blowing on the air filter (if it's too close to the MAF) can screw with the motor... Be wary of fuel systems and wiring on it because the VG30de is a hot running motor (I think I said that already, but it's worth mentioning again).

We plan on setting her on the track for testing fall 2012, attempting a full SCCA regional season 2013, (there are no promises either way).  I would have liked to have driven her more, just to have an idea of what we need to complete this build, basic bolt on's with a vg30de seems to put more than enough power to the ground for the car so it's down to weight balance and suspension (unless I can get a hold of a good head rebuild kit by z motorsports) in which case, it's game on for added power with a goal of 250+ to the rear wheels and total weight of around 2500 lbs.

I'll keep you updated on plans for the build, and continue to bug SVS for photos while I'm deployed... I keep telling him that the more media he sends me the better but he gets distracted, by squirrels (I think he has ADD, which makes him amazing at wiring and building crazy cars, and a little more than interesting when it comes to getting anything else done)
Wolf DilworthDec 24, 2011, 9:41 am · #35
radoublely on 03:15:21 AM / 24-Dec-11
...but he gets distracted, by squirrels (I think he has ADD, which makes him amazing at wiring and building crazy cars, and a little more than interesting when it comes to getting anything else done)

Boy how I can relate to this guy.  ADD is a cruel mistress.
radoublelyDec 25, 2011, 9:33 am · #36
Wolf Dilworth on 09:41:50 AM / 24-Dec-11
Boy how I can relate to this guy.  ADD is a cruel mistress.


Yeah, he'll sit there all day wiring up a car and not give up on it until two or three hours after he should have gone home... But then, if you're hanging out and a cat walks across the road... It's all over.
fyneyoungstunnaJan 6, 2012, 1:12 am · #37

if your goal is just 250 to the wheels then dont go with the Z1 built heads and stuff, youll be uselessly throwing money at the NA. just get a good set of STOCK TT heads, a good intake, an ash-spec ecu, some ebay headers (trust me, for the Z they are better than the Megans). There is a CF driveshaft in production for the z32, worth looking into. the z1 upgraded throttle bodies are probably gonna do you some good as well.

to the pcv delete, the fuel reroute, delete the aivi's.
If i read corrrectly, this is an 1990 vg30de? if so, throw out your injectors as they are shit. They will fail and probably soon. get the adapter kit from Z1 and buy "new style" injectors and you will not have to worry about them for years. Also while your in there minus well get viton O-rings. they will outlast your car. Also change out the coilpack connectors your are old and probably crap as well.

"1. You're going to want to NOT buy a used VG30DE from a Junkyard.  Buy the entire setup from a certified JDM motor company.  You can get the motor, transmission, wiring harness and ECU with accessories for about $1,800 shipped and delivered.  http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/contact are the guys I used.

^
That is not a true statement at all. Most of us in the Z community know that the jdm vg30de's are the worse of the lot. there is no difference in the usdm and jdm vg30des so why pay all that money for an engine that is more than likely in the same condition or worse than the one from the local yard?

radoublelyJan 6, 2012, 1:35 am · #38
fyneyoungstunna on 01:12:49 AM / 06-Jan-12
if your goal is just 250 to the wheels then dont go with the Z1 built heads and stuff, youll be uselessly throwing money at the NA. just get a good set of STOCK TT heads, a good intake, an ash-spec ecu, some ebay headers (trust me, for the Z they are better than the Megans). There is a CF driveshaft in production for the z32, worth looking into. the z1 upgraded throttle bodies are probably gonna do you some good as well.

to the pcv delete, the fuel reroute, delete the aivi's.
If i read corrrectly, this is an 1990 vg30de? if so, throw out your injectors as they are shit. They will fail and probably soon. get the adapter kit from Z1 and buy "new style" injectors and you will not have to worry about them for years. Also while your in there minus well get viton O-rings. they will outlast your car. Also change out the coilpack connectors your are old and probably crap as well.

"1. You're going to want to NOT buy a used VG30DE from a Junkyard.  Buy the entire setup from a certified JDM motor company.  You can get the motor, transmission, wiring harness and ECU with accessories for about $1,800 shipped and delivered.  http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/contact are the guys I used.

^
That is not a true statement at all. Most of us in the Z community know that the jdm vg30de's are the worse of the lot. there is no difference in the usdm and jdm vg30des so why pay all that money for an engine that is more than likely in the same condition or worse than the one from the local yard?

The injectors are being dealt with by using a JWT kit, and we're just going to buy the higher-flow injectors from the same company.

I personally have had bad experiences with Junkyard parts, a low-mileage motor is worth 1,800 with a warranty on it as far as I"m concerned...  You have to be careful not to use a company that leaves their motors sitting too long, but given the choice between a junkyard motor and something with a warranty I'll take the motor with the warranty.  And that 1800 includes the DE trans (which I've explained had better aftermarket support along with the flywheel went right on and I had a custom carbon fiber driveshaft made the z32 won't fit, I know.) wiring harness, and upgraded ECU, and accessories.  Yeah, so I paid for a warranty.

We didn't have to do a EGR delete, the piping is custom and I already have headers on the car....

We do plan on running more than 250 to the wheels at some point.  I want to perfect the handling, and then as time goes by to put more money into the motor.  We're at one thing at a time here.
radoublelyFeb 26, 2012, 2:52 am · #39

Wishlist for my car upon return-

stage 3 Head kit by Zmotorsports
3.3 liter bore w/titanium forged pistons, rods, and crankshaft
complete engine electric reprogram

for my dream set-up, these are the bits I don't have yet

Super Silhouette style fiberglass wide body kit
275/45/r16 fronts, 315/45/r17 rears
Carbon fiber vented hood
spoiler on spoiler rear wing action
rear air vents
front splitter
lexand scratch resistant coated window replacements/electric window delete

fyneyoungstunnaMar 5, 2012, 2:14 pm · #40

stage 3 heads are gonna be very much overkill. and you might have valve problems.
TT head with a bore and mild cams, will suffice more than enough for your application.
   Switch to E85 your engine temps and Hp will love you for it. Plus you can set ridiculous timing values on it. your not gonna break 265-70 without a turbo....or 10-15k to throw at built parts.
But, if you do I will sing praise karaoke style at your first podium event!

radoublelyMar 12, 2012, 4:52 am · #41
fyneyoungstunna on 02:14:28 PM / 05-Mar-12stage 3 heads are gonna be very much overkill. and you might have valve problems.
 TT head with a bore and mild cams, will suffice more than enough for your application.
   Switch to E85 your engine temps and Hp will love you for it. Plus you can set ridiculous timing values on it. your not gonna break 265-70 without a turbo....or 10-15k to throw at built parts.
 But, if you do I will sing praise karaoke style at your first podium event!

I think I've probably already stuck about 15k in the car already lol.  I've priced it out pretty well, it looks like the motor build I want is going to run me about 10k but while I"m away I'm going to put her through some car shows and on the track to make sure we have the suspension dialed in at this point and see if we can't get someone to build the motor for free ;), but if not it can be done with my budget for next year.

On the HP numbers, I really think I've set a goal for 300 HP to the wheels or more because everyone says it can't be done.  Right now she's fully caged and in the interior and paint stage, so we'll get her ready for year 1 of trails and testing, then let her loose in 2013 for sure.
JuneBugMar 12, 2012, 7:02 am · #42

I've heard of people using a fwd maxima vg30e flywheel.  To mate a c trans to a de.  it's on the z31 forums if you search a little.

 The only reason  I would ever do this swap is because I could get one from the local yard for $250.  Also there are at least 10 j30's there so I know I could find a good one.

If anyone was going to spend 10k on an na vg why the hell wouldn't they just buy an LS1. 

fyneyoungstunnaMar 12, 2012, 11:35 am · #43

well If you have that kind of cash I say go for it!! I applaud you. I think the limited funds part is what keeps most people from really digging in to the vg.
Do post a build sheet so we can see what it took!
The sound of that thing is gonna be MEAN!!

Ooooooooo, I just saw the vid on the website. Your car sounds great. Like a Zed with a good exhaust!

radoublelyMar 13, 2012, 7:56 am · #44
lvDave on 07:02:13 AM / 12-Mar-12I've heard of people using a fwd maxima vg30e flywheel.  To mate a c trans to a de.  it's on the z31 forums if you search a little.

 The only reason  I would ever do this swap is because I could get one from the local yard for $250.  Also there are at least 10 j30's there so I know I could find a good one.

If anyone was going to spend 10k on an na vg why the hell wouldn't they just buy an LS1. 


To keep it Nissan? and N/A power? for the sake of milk and cookies everywhere!!!! 

Post Merge: [time]08:00:41 PM / 13-Mar-12 [/time]
fyneyoungstunna on 11:35:26 AM / 12-Mar-12well If you have that kind of cash I say go for it!! I applaud you. I think the limited funds part is what keeps most people from really digging in to the vg.
Do post a build sheet so we can see what it took!
The sound of that thing is gonna be MEAN!!

Ooooooooo, I just saw the vid on the website. Your car sounds great. Like a Zed with a good exhaust!

Thanks on the exhaust note, it's a 2.5 inch pipe custom job (made to tuck into the car to avoid clearance issues) and the headers are off of z1 motor sports.  The cold air intake is custom from SVS too.  I had all the piping done already along with the clutch, flywheel and ECU because really I consider those bits part of a good swap.

it also seems to me most people don't really build the VGDE because if they can afford it, they put the money into the TT's.  One thing that bothered me at an auto-x when I borrowed my friends a4 quattro was the understeer inducing turbo lag.  Which sounds strange, but when the turbo kicked in if you had the wheels pointed anywhere but dead ahead the car would understeer, making it near impossible to keep in the power-band during a corner and corner exits even more difficult. 

A turbo wouldn't mean understeer in the s12, but it certainly could turn into a sudden oversteer movement on the exit as you came out of the corner.  It just turned me off of turbo motors, the vg30de had 220-something hp at the fly and the s12 is a light car, it seemed like a good place to start and I didn't have a problem with not having 5,000,000 hp numbers that some turbo guys claim to have.

Hopefully right now with the modifications I have on it's running (fuel pump, injectors, intake, headers, exhaust, chip, flywheel, CF driveshaft) it's making 220 to the rear wheels, which is a pretty sweet number for a little s12 but worth improving on once I get time to really dig into the bowels of the motor.

I think when I get back to the U.S. I can do a full-build re-cap for everyone, especially with the new interior, roll cage, and paint!
ArroMar 13, 2012, 12:33 pm · #45

A couple things I wanted to say... first off, I like how everyone in here is pulling together to talk about some of the possible obstacles and solutions for the car. Second, I'm stoked that this got done, and wasn't another person popping into the Exotic Engine Swap section running their mouth and never doing it. This is awesome. I have always liked the idea of a twincam VG in an S12, whether it was DE or DETT... I knew it would be nose-heavy but I agree with you that with PROPER parts and suspension attention, it would be alright. I said proper parts and attention... no offense to the guys on here who have big ass exotic swaps or are building them, but you're taking a step backwards if you don't do more than simple suspension mods after adding weight (or in the case of inline-six engines, changing the location of that weight).

This is being done right... you have the right attitude.. Your approach seems to be simple and straight-forward, and I have no doubt you'll get out of this car what you said you wanted from it.

:thumbsup:

fyneyoungstunnaMar 14, 2012, 2:38 pm · #46

you should be at a little more than that, but its a good number. Go through and do the new injector connectors and coilpack connectors for piece of mind and a better ecu signal and stuff. Since your doing auto-x and other racing I really would suggest doing the PCV re-route for this reason:
"The VG30DE motor is known for dumping oil out of the valve covers, through the pcv hoses/valves, into the plenum and out the exhaust. I've lost over a quart of oil before on track days and canyon runs. Oil has literally been dripping out of the mufflers. If you haven't experienced this, you just haven't pushed your car hard enough." its straight forward and simple to do. Ive done a lot of deletes to my VG. and I can now get my hands down to almost anything in the engine, I have also removed my aaic and Idol sensor. Now Im tinkering with tuning the idol for smoothness.

Good luck on this. I love it when people stick to the Na VG. Ive gone to War over on 300zxc over this topic with mods and a lot of forum members over my NA build.

radoublelyMar 15, 2012, 11:48 am · #47

Well, HP measurements aren't currently completed yet and I'm waiting until I get the cars final weight before I dyno her.  The reason being is we are currently still fine-tuning the ECU and a smoothing out that air intake issue, along with stripping out the entire car and building a 'tub' interior (racing).  The second, and kind of related reason for not having her on a dyno yet is also that time attack trails in my local area require an up-to-date dyno run and weight for car classification.  I plan to photocopy both results and publish them on most forums, and update as I rebuild the motor, but I'm not in the country right now to even race her, and I don't expect to be in full-competition mode until the 2013 season.

There's actually a lot I want to do here with keeping people updated on the racing development of the car as well.  I'll try to update every track time, lap, and I'm investing in a couple of go-pro cameras to help with the media development.  Try to score some decent film editing software, get into photography.  Maybe open up a social media advertising and web design company lol.  It all kind of ties in, I hope this car can lead to a sponsorship one day so once the completed project (for now) is released from the garage, it'll be time to really get to work.

radoublelyMar 21, 2012, 2:59 am · #48

New videos to keep you updated

Smoothing out the body

posted image

Flush the hood up, just right

posted image

And roll cage installation

posted image

She's ready for paint baby!


Post Merge: 07:24:37 AM / 21-Mar-12
I just ordered the shizNIT.  http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-hero2-motorsports-edition/?gclid=CPL27Yn8964CFUXc4AodZG23yg x2 baby! when I get back, this girls gonna be ready for the track and we're going to offer everyone the best seat in the house!
fyneyoungstunnaMar 28, 2012, 12:51 pm · #49

I call dibs on the ridealong lol.
wow man, way to put the game on lock!

radoublelyMar 31, 2012, 7:03 am · #50
fyneyoungstunna on 12:51:57 PM / 28-Mar-12I call dibs on the ridealong lol.
wow man, way to put the game on lock!

Anytime bro, I have to represent the s12 name U.S. side.  She'll be totally clean in a few days, they're doing the wire tuck and interior panels right now ;)