RB25det, June 28th deadline - no sleep until completion. then beer.

is that the same rad setup that draconis was selling thru up garage or a different one?

IMMEDIATE ROADTRIP!

Tofino BC, surfing adventure.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0048.jpg)

And some pixelated shit:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/deanchromier/200sx%20revival/DSCF0038.jpg)

-dan

Same, that is a different radiator than what I have.  It is very similar to the one that is being made up for the S12 that I have over at UP Garage, but there has to some adaptation needed.  But like everyone was arguing about the ones I am having made up, this is basically the same design, so it shows that what I'm having made up is legit and quite capable.

Dan, like the logo.   I'll take credit for it seeing it was my last name and all.  Glad to see that you got her running and finalized.  A little later than planned, but same with mine.

Colin, I got her running right on time though! It was up and about for golden gardens, I just decided not to go due to weather and the early wake up!

Rad *should* be going in this week.. As with new front lower control arms.. Maybe this coming weekend I will tackle the new downpipe.. Shiiiiiit.

-dan

Lol since when dose anything just go on with out modifing on the s12?

ZG flares ftw

Yeah, those were talked about concerning my car... those and ripping the fenders off my 944 and putting them on the s12. lol

DraconisYeah, those were talked about concerning my car... those and ripping the fenders off my 944 and putting them on the s12. lol

have you seen my notch lately xano?

Thanks for all the kind words gentlemen!

Here is some food for thought:

Rb26dett bore diameter: 86.0mm
RB25det bore diameter: 86.0mm
RB26dett connecting rod bearing inner diameter: 51.000mm / 2.0079in

Honda B16 connecting rod bearing inner diameter:  45.000mm / 1.7717in

RB25det factory bore: 86.0mm
RB25det factory stroke: 71.7mm
RB25det factory displacement: 2498cc

Displacement = Stroke * [ 3.14159 * (Bore / 2)^2 ] * [# of cylinders]

71.7mm * [ 3.14159 * (86.0mm / 2)^2 ] * 6 = 2498mL (cc)

Now, hypothetically if you were to take an RB26dett crankshaft, and machine the inner journal of each connecting rod's bearing surface to accept a honda bearing you could create an interesting thing..

So let's do a quick calculation, what is the difference between the RB26 and B16 journal diameter.

51.000mm - 45.000mm = 6mm

So let's take ~6mm off the inside of the journal (very rough estimate). Now or connecting rod center axis is moved.

So at TDC the journal center is +6mm, and BDC the journal center is -6mm. Effective stroke increase: 12mm.

Let's rule out any other issues such as oil pan baffle clearance, oil squirter clearance, and block clearance due to additional rod angle.

Let us also allow for the installation of a ~12mm spacer plate between the block and head, with pressed in iron sleeves.

So, stroke is +12mm, cylinder head chamber volume wasn't even factored in (again, very rough calculation).

98.0mm * [ 3.14159 * (86.0mm / 2)^2 ] * 6 = 3416cc

Now that number looks huge, and it is. But it is theoretical for the following reasons:

-Removing 6mm from the outermost edge of a crank journal is not advisable. I would be looking at 2mm to 4mm at max
-Though the center point is changing, the true 'stroke' may not work out as exactly double of that amount, it may be a percentage of it.
-Due to clearance issues, the upper stroke limit may be more strict than anticipated.. heavy block modifications and custom oil pans are not being considered.
-Excessive rod angle is never a good thing, the plans may be slimmed down to avoid this problem

The 'head spacer' is not a new idea. Big block chevy guys have been doing it for years, OS Giken (one of the most respected japanese tuners) even released a kit for the RB26.. However mine would be custom. Think of something like a head torque plate.

Lots of thought will go into this build, harmonic balancers, lightweight rotating assemblies, and crank nitriding are all a must.

This is a better financial option than building up an RB30e block as it would require fitment of oil squirters, the crank is not forged steel, there are fewer internal casting braces, and shipping rates are insane.

So hopefully, in the next year or so there should be some progress made on a motor build with the end goal to bring engine displacement >3.2 liters, hopefully something like an RB33DET.

Cheers.

-Dan

sam31183have you seen my notch lately xano?

RB25sx - SLPRColin, I got her running right on time though! It was up and about for golden gardens, I just decided not to go due to weather and the early wake up!

i did see a couple s13s with zip tied unpainted body kits....that was pretty baller...

Xanoi dunno, im still wary on notches in general, they've always looked off to me.

I loved hatches when i first saw them...and disliked notches when i first saw them...notches have grown on me...especially mine...there is something about the se lip/sideskirts + hoshinos + jdm clear corners...its all win really.

This idea sounds cool btw if the machining can be done...

Car is now a drifter. Currently slammed on 18's in the rear, took off the questionable fender flares, and me and my friends began doodling all over the damn thing. Here are some shots of our journey to the track about 2 hours north of here:







I somehow blew my welded diff apart, and it is now functioning as an open diff - which makes no sense.. I was able to drive 150km on it though! So no complaints.

If there are action shots that others took, I will post those soon.

-Dan

sweet!

weird with the diff but that can happen if u just weld the side gears to the housing and didnt penatrate deep.  gotta weld spider gears to side gears always. max heat

how was the drifting in it?

IggyEGuanasweet!

weird with the diff but that can happen if u just weld the side gears to the housing and didnt penatrate deep.  gotta weld spider gears to side gears always. max heat

how was the drifting in it?

its sucks so hard
why everyone can fit his radiator without problems and i run in such trouble?

why did my one not fit :-(

You must have built the engine mounts to place the motor too far forward. There is about 3/8" between my firewall and cylinder head.

any tips on getting the rust off your front strut towers? mine is getting EATEN, im afraid itll let go catastrophically.

Wire wheel the whole area, weld in patch panels, rust converter the whole area, seam sealer, then anti-rust paint.. It will outlive the car. If you use flux core mig wire, be sure to grind the welds very well since the flux is an oxidizer.

-dan

Drift competition was today, smacked a curb in a tightening radius going about 60km/h - totalled the lower control arm, toe arm, hub/spindle, and my stance coilover is leaking fluid. Replaced the LCA and somehow got the car home under its own power. Pictures to follow.

Damn! Get us them pics!

This might give some clue as to the damage..

Brace for impact:



The result:

Damn, you just found the proper way to deal with the stupid negative camber... you just over did it I guess... :p 

Seriously, I hope you didn't bend the subframe or any mounting brackets... should be fairly easy to fix with a quick trip to the local junkyard... you were running a s-13 rear conversion? Right?

gonna merge this all together.

A view downwards onto the control arms:



A view of what is left of the boot, and the axle:



The toe arm:



The scoring in the strut was caused by the axle wobbling about.. It is superficial damage.. I have removed the shock body, and it seems to be fine as no seals are weeping and it has consistent dampening:



What is left of the axle:



I am happy that the coilover appears to be in good shape, the arms etc were all due to be replaced anyways.. I am going to be re-designing the whole rear-subframe mounting setup and using a RUST FREE subframe from the west coast. Also, this is incentive for me to patch/weld the minor frame rust I've got..

Possibly a blessing in disguise? Who knows...

-Dan

NO HANDS!

I was in the middle of rolling my window down to stick my torso outside.. We went until both rears popped.. Hoping someone got a video!

I would like you all the meet - THE RAINBOW MAKER.

Yes love that picture

I have a whole s13 rear subframe with no rust if your looking for one?  I'm located in Sonoma.

Man are those stock s13 brakes you've got on the rear? Cuz they look bigger than the front one... time for a front brake upgrade???

Oh and nice canoe rack you got on it ;) can't wait to see picture of it riding in the trails to reach a far away lake :p lol

Drift damage.. My subframe literally cracked in half from that impact.. New one has been acquired and is awaiting installation.





-dan

hey dan, jus wonderin if your e-brakes work.. which cables did u use to set it up? s13,s14,z32,r32?

wut other bracketing needed to be made??

They do not work, trying to figure something out. Z32 rear drum e-brake, a handle out of an alfa romeo, and partially homemade cables. It will most likely fail hard.

-dan

how about hydraulic hand brake to solve that issue... but it's probably too easy for you...;) lol

Just joking with you... keep it up, fix that thing and go sling it around corners!

I actually had a hydro e-brake, and theres a good chance I will be reinstalling one in the future.

Subframe is out of the car, I may take this opportunity to get my coilovers rebuilt even though they are only 3 years old.. It is good peace of mind for me.

Currently pricing out a RB26dett with low compression on cylinder 4 and 5 which I plan to bolt to an RB30 block.

Twin turbo or big single?

-Dan

Single big mofo for hour long lag time and a sonic boom when fully spooled ;)

That would be a monster

Awesome S12 project you have mate ;)

twin turbo... two healthy sized twins could net u a nine sec beast with out the lag

So in addition to re-doing my 240sx rear end, I also decided to finally investigate my cooling options.. Heres what happened

• Gutted and chopped out upper rad support
• Cut off headlight motors and solid mounted headlights into upright position
• Built custom containment cage for intercooler and rad (all mounted with ballermatic metric hardware)

• Custom front bumper rebar to hold bumper skin/crash bar
• Mount new H4 headlights
• Plumb some IC pipes
• New rad hoses (have the lower, need to source an upper that will fit)
• Clean up some wiring

Looks sick.

Got poop?
Every day of my life. Yes

PS. Did you make the roof rack? or is that from something else that you made work?

custom radiator?

Yes, griffin 'scirocco' rad.

Bought a replacement motor today, it is an "RB25det".. when in actual fact its an RB20, with an RB25 intake manifold, and t25 turbo, with RB25det spark plug cover and timing cover...

Fucking. Ripped. Off..

-Dan

Wow some people choose a buck over having a little dignity.  What a joke man that sucks =\

Yes, griffin 'scirocco' rad.

shitty to hear man. Gonna come to any D-days this year?