JZ S12 BUILD, RIP 2012

Hell yeah man, when you have an alternator or starter die on you, you'll see, that's a BIG money savings right there. Plus you can bring them in to test them on the machine, and save yourself some grief/money.

Buy new belts, hoses, and wires, and the savings are big, too.

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fuck yes!

yay! where'd you score those?

Niiiice.  Gonna make a huge difference.

fuck yea!

dude!

this week ive spent so much moeny. so many cool deals

got a turbo hood for 45 bucks, found 2 mk1.5 s12's at the yard with lee

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That looks so much better!

i would kill for a turbo hood details about the  finding of it

also please remove that hood when you go drifting!!!!! lol dont want to kill that sexy new hood

kyskateralso please remove that hood when you go drifting!!!!! lol dont want to kill that sexy new hood

David B

i found it at the yard...

LeegamerIt was randomly on a CA20 car.  Lol.

so like it is ona flat hood?

i am going with mom on some teacher confrences around rual ky and im gonna look in some rednecks junk yards to see if i can snag one

i dont like this part i hate suspensionnn

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need rotorz, and missing bolts...

not pictured is the front sway bar

or should i use stock?

heres the s13 spare knuckles i have to get chopped up for g unitangle

(wont be going in until after i get more cash)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3162.jpg)

and i have 2 tension rod bushings to add

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/100_3163.jpg)

sweet id say use the s12 sway bar for now then later on get a s14 one.

kthanks

and, what exactly do i need to do for the stock tie rods?

temperary, until i buy better ones to accomadate the cut knuckles

i also need help on this. i think were going to have about the same setup

the best thing to do imo is get S13 inner AND outer tie rod ends and swap those onto your current S12 rack.  There are other options, but this is the most stable I think (the A-1 adapter tie rod ends are both more $$ and don't seem as solid as OEM ones) and you will still maintain full adjustability.

As for the tension rods, you'll either need S14 tension rod brackets or simply mount up the shit, see whereabout the S13 tension rod comes into the original s12 tension rod bracket, and drill a new hole to accept the S13 tension rod bracket.  thing is with this, you may end up with different (ie incorrect) caster by doing this, which if you had adjustable S13 tension rods then you'd be ok.  more things to think about...

also btw, you can swap the S13 ball joint into the original S12 lower control arm and maintain the same wheel fitment you had before.  dunno if this matters to you, but installing the S13 stuff with the S13 lca will bump your wheel outward by about 10mm.

ughh all this bs.

can i just swap the hub or w/e onto the LCA....and use all stock s12 stuff around there..... i dont see too much upgrade other then the coilovers anyways...and the brakes

oh wait, r u saying, i can swap pieces off the stock s13 stie rods onto the s12 tie rod to the rack?

umm

S13 inner tie rods will thread into an S12 steering rack.  This is what i recommend.  then put S13 outer tie rods onto the S13 inner tie rods, and connect to new spindle.

opportunity to get the steering spacers as well, which would slip over the threads of the S13 inners as they go into the S12 steering rack, which will allow the rack to move further each way and give you more lock.

S13 outer----S13 inner--S12 steering rack--S13 inner---S13 outer

make sense?..

200sxkitcarumm

S13 inner tie rods will thread into an S12 steering rack.  This is what i recommend.  then put S13 outer tie rods onto the S13 inner tie rods, and connect to new spindle.

opportunity to get the steering spacers as well, which would slip over the threads of the S13 inners as they go into the S12 steering rack, which will allow the rack to move further each way and give you more lock.
S13 outer----S13 inner--S12 steering rack--S13 inner---S13 outer

make sense?..

it would be easier at this point.

good to save as spares tho.

yea i got all that stuff for free etc.

okay i have alot more confidence haha

just need to redrill the q45 brakes once i get them...

Suspension is the funnest. Grats on the progress.

the cheapest way you can do it david is.......

keep the s12 lca in place.
keep the s12 swaybar in place
keep the s12 tension/strut rod and bracket in place
buy s13 ball joints
install s13 balljoints into s12 lca
install s13 knuckle to s12 lca w/ s13 ball joint
get s13 tie rods...autozone new=cheap junkyard=cheaper
use your coils and boom you got suspension.
brakes can be put on later after the cars on the ground.
thats the easiest and cheapest s13 swap.

basically all you need is rotors, balljoints and some tie rods. install that then sell the s12 stuffs to make some money back and go buy some more s13 stuff for spares.

silvia lovethe cheapest way you can do it david is.......

keep the s12 lca in place.
keep the s12 swaybar in place
keep the s12 tension/strut rod and bracket in place
buy s13 ball joints
install s13 balljoints into s12 lca
install s13 knuckle to s12 lca w/ s13 ball joint
get s13 tie rods...autozone new=cheap junkyard=cheaper
use your coils and boom you got suspension.
brakes can be put on later after the cars on the ground.
thats the easiest and cheapest s13 swap.

basically all you need is rotors, balljoints and some tie rods. install that then sell the s12 stuffs to make some money back and go buy some more s13 stuff for spares.

Looks good.  Strange to see your car with the same wheels all around.  Haha.

knock off a few gas stations and have a pro wheel shop remake them into 15s or 16s.  16x8 +10 front and 16x9 0 rear.  roll and pull all around.  hott VA S12 yo

damn, that looks great.  a bit of spacer, a bit of lower, should be sex.

please, please, don't fuck up those rims sliding it!

200sxkitcardamn, that looks great.  a bit of spacer, a bit of lower, should be sex.

please, please, don't fuck up those rims sliding it!

ah, good.  lookn dope!

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little local meet was rained out but 3 of us showed haha

so you must not have gotten a ticket at this one then =P

Xanoso you must not have gotten a ticket at this one then =P

David Blol i didnt dfrive

k i popped the knuckles off

things to do
drill my rotors to 4 lug

remove dust shields

buy new rubber seal thingys for the rubber things on the ball joint

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0731.jpg)

I CANNOT REMOVE THIS KNUCKLE! it was easy  on the s12 one while it was on the car, but these are off
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0732.jpg)

so for now im test fitting the coils with my spare knuckles, but i really dont feel like swapping hubs over

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QUESTIONS

those rubber ball joint thingys, should i buy 200sx, or 240sx ones, and what are they called

and, i had 3 sets of control arms with hubs on them, and also 2 spare knuckles

but i lost the left controlarm/knuckle, and i have 2 rights

could i use my SPARE knuckle on the left side with the left knuckle, and add the RIGHT hub, onto that knuckle?

is there a difference between left and right hubs?

I sincerely hope you were not relying on that jackstand that was under the control arm to hold the car up - it looks sketchy as hell.

As for removing the arm from the knuckle either try heat, or thread the nut back on about halfway and then strike the nut DEAD ON with a large drift or piece of pipe + hammer.

I believe there was something said before about how the taper of the balls joints for the 240 vs 200 are different. Thus the 240 taper is designed to fit the 240 knuckle (common sense).. Can someone else elaborate on this?

Technically there is a difference between left and right hubs, if they are new it shouldnt matter. Used hubgs though - that can create wear patterns that might be noticeable in your driving experience. You can always check by calling a parts store and seeing if the left vs right hubs have different part numbers, they are likely the same though.

-Dan

RB25sx - SLPRI sincerely hope you were not relying on that jackstand that was under the control arm to hold the car up - it looks sketchy as hell.

As for removing the arm from the knuckle either try heat, or thread the nut back on about halfway and then strike the nut DEAD ON with a large drift or piece of pipe + hammer.

I believe there was something said before about how the taper of the balls joints for the 240 vs 200 are different. Thus the 240 taper is designed to fit the 240 knuckle (common sense).. Can someone else elaborate on this?

Technically there is a difference between left and right hubs, if they are new it shouldnt matter. Used hubgs though - that can create wear patterns that might be noticeable in your driving experience. You can always check by calling a parts store and seeing if the left vs right hubs have different part numbers, they are likely the same though.

-Dan

i got the stupid hub off and onto the s12
i love coilovers

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Haha. Antique Vehicle Plates. I didn't realize our cars were gettin that old.

RedneckHaha. Antique Vehicle Plates. I didn't realize our cars were gettin that old.

fix yor lip foo

CAN'T WAIT for the 25 year mark for my 87' Se

IggyEGuanafix yor lip foo

why cant i just use the stock tie rod, and drille a hole through the bolt, through the thread, and put a cotter pin there?

or simply weld the bolt to the thread, and cut it off once i buy new tie rods
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0740.jpg)

can i sue the stock brake line? if i weld a piece of metal, to keep the box looking thing from going left and right, if it holds pressure etc. will this be fine?

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0741.jpg)

next, id to drill the rotors on my dads drill press

(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k20/gamefreak291/103_0739.jpg)

you need the s13 tie rod ends.  do not jankify this part, its extremely critical for the car to go in a straight line... vs into oncoming traffic.  welding to this if not done just right could result in it suddenly breaking off.  same with drilling, etc.

if you absolutely cannot find s13 inner and outer tie rods, Im sure we could locate a set here in socal.

I don't think you need to modify the S12 flexible brake line at all, iirc it should be just fine.  its only when you run the steering angle spacers it becomes a problem.  If you are concerned, swap to S13 soft lines, then no issues.

I recommend new copper washers on the flex line where it bolts to the caliper (the box end) so you reduce the chance of leaks.  they are cheap, just bring them to your favorite parts store and they should be able to match them.

The hubs should be the same left or right.  The S13 setup, unlike the S12, has all the bearings and movable surfaces within the bearings pressed into the hub, so you dont need to worry about wear patterns on the spindle, etc because the movement occurs within the hub, not on the spindle like it does on the S12.  its rather hard to describe without the actual parts in front of us, but you can use either one on either side or just grab another if necessary.  preferably one with all the lug studs

You need to be using the S13 ball joint.  install a new S13 ball joint if yours is damaged or it is still an S12 ball joint.

looks good man...

I'm more jealous of the Hoshino's than anything....